Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 1988 - Coolant Blowing Out Under Acceleration
Sep 5, 2016
Always regretted selling my 1988 ford diesel. It was a stick shift 4x regs cab. Very fun to drive. But I was a kid so when it developed a tranny noise I panicked and sold it. So, I bought a pile of crap in the form of a 2004 super dooty. It's a long bed ex cab, but had a stick shift!
It's got 330k on the clock, spicer rear end, and the famed 6.0. It's 4x4.. The truck isn't running and has a laundry list of engine issues including coolant blowing out under acceleration, hpop failing, weak injectors, oil leaks.
Compression is claimed to be good, but I'm thinking it would be easier and cheaper to fix up a used engine and swap it in. I'm open to other engines too, so I'd love to hear about options for that.
My research indicates that the 6.0 can be made to work well. For the money I have into the truck there is some room to invest in the engine. I have a line on a lo mile used 2006 6.0 engine. I've been told that the later years like 06 were less prone to some of the issues. Would this engine require head studs/gaskets and hpop fixes?
I'd be doing an egr delete for sure. And a coolant filter setup which is a new concept to me. What else would need to be done to bolster this engine? Turbos okay in these? I saw my friends ford burn to the ground from a cracked turbo. Or, should I put a gas engine in?
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I have coolant blowing out of my coolant reservoir when ever i hold it to the floor it does it with or without the banks programmer... 6.0L power stroke...
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I have a 2006 6.0l f350 crew cab that blows air hard every time I accelerate. Sounds like you're going 100mph with the hood unlatched. It blows real hard for a minute and goes away if I accelerate through it or let off.
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I bought a 03 6.0 dually a couple months ago. Got a good price on it. I use it very little, around town sometimes and used to pull a 7000 lb camper sometimes. My issue is, the other day I took off with the camper. Drove for maybe 5 miles then stopped and waited for traffic. When I took off again it was blowing gray smoke when I was accelerating and had little power. I was going about 30 mph for about a mile at about 3000 rpm up a very gradual hill. I was in the tow setting. When I got to the top of the hill it seemed to recover. I pulled over and shut it off then took off again without any issues.
The next day when leaving camping it was the same thing. Took off and saw gray smoke and had little power. After about 1-2 miles all was well again. Truck has 202k miles. Recently replaced oil cooler, egr cooler has been welded shut at both ends, turbo has been cleaned and all the filters and fluids are new. I have a Scan Guage 2 and monitored the ficm voltage and it maintained 47 to 47.5 volts. I know 2 injectors had been replaced when I purchased it as well and the egr valve by a dealer(they said it showed the cooler was clogging but like I said it was welded shut). What I should look for?
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My 2006 6.0 is blowing white smoke/steam and Im losing coolant (not out the top). Pulled the EGR valve and its wet down there. All signs lead to EGR cooler? I've been reading a lot on this forum and Ill do the oil cooler at the same time. I seems VERY important to flush the coolant system before I tear into this. I am afraid of hydro locking the motor or ruining the head gasket or stretching the head studs if I run the truck. How can I do this without further damaging the engine? I am doing this myself. I'll have 3 solid days to finish this job because I have to tow my trailer in 5 days.
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My delta runs about 10 to 11 but it has gone up to 17-19 towing nothing for 2-3 seconds. No fogging of the windshield, and carpet is not wet. Puking is on the top of the degas and the bottom, and I have change the cap three times now. My coolant level is below the min level if the truck is warmed up the coolant line sets about 2 inches from the bottom of the degas bottle. The pictures are so big I could not figure out how to make them smaller.
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Well my problem went from bad to worse. My 05 started running rough at idle, then smoothed out a bit but started smoking on acceleration a little. At this point it felt like it had more power than ever before and even ran smoother running up to 3k RPM before shifting (manual transmission). But now it's smoking so bad, I can't really drive it. It's smoking white or gray at idle but blowing black smoke on acceleration. I had a cylinder 5 contribution code but with the amount of smoke it's hard to believe only one injector is a problem. I pulled the EGR valve and it doesn't look stuck open but I'm going to replace it anyway.
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Well got home and the front of the truck was covered in coolant. I must have driven 2 hrs after I noticed no coolant pressure, but temperature was great so figured it was another crappy cap. Looking to get a quick turnaround. Need to go out of town for work Saturday so I have this week to get it done.
Just put a stock unit back in? I don't think I need to do anything else in that area. Belt/pulleys/radiator all done last spring.
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This weekend my friend and I plan on doing a coolant flush, new Mishimoto thermostat housing with high temp thermostat and install a Mishimoto coolant filter.
Truck currently has some unknown green coolant in it and Im going to replace it with Rotella ELC. I plan on doing a couple hose water flushes then follow with about 5 distilled water flushes. I've been reading about putting some Cascade in on first flush to dissolve any silicate goo that might be in there hanging out. I might give that a try. Im sure I can manage this part from all the stuff I read about doing flushes.
This is the part that looks like a little more work involved than the flush. Doing the thermostat kind of worries me because of the tight area in there to work with the fuel line and the EBP sensor being right there. The current thermostat holds temps around 175-185 under normal driving. I bought the new Mishimoto thermostat housing with the high temp thermostat installed in it when they had their pre sale going on for the housing.
I decided to just go with the whole thing because of all the stuff I read about people having issues with the thermostat not fitting the older housing correctly since Im certain I have the original housing from 2004, like everything else that's still original on my truck. I plan on removing the thermostat before doing the flushes and then installing the new housing and thermostat and coolant filter before I add the ELC.
The coolant filter install looks fairly simple to do so I should be ok with that.
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I purchased 2011 F250 King Ranch Edition about 3 months ago. I'm loving the truck and not had any issues until 3 weeks ago. I locked the truck as usual using the key Fob, and upon returning to the truck, I noticed the doors weren't locked. After some brief trouble shooting, I discovered the the fuse was blown that according to the manual controls just the power door locks. I thought it was strange that a new truck would be popping a fuse so I replaced it...a couple of days later it blew again. This time I was locking the truck with the door key pad. I took it to the dealership and they checked it over and said they replaced the fuse and cycled it numerous times but could not reproduce the problem. The told me that they even put a call in to the Ford engineers and they said check the key pad for water intrusion. The dealership told me they disassembled the key pad and found nothing wrong....lock and unlocked the door some more and the fuse would not blow. I picked the truck up four days ago and the fuse blew again last night. Everything else works...alarm sets and goes off if any of the doors are opened. The only thing that I can find that doesn't work when the fuse is blown is the remote start.
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Well it's that time of year to start using my air conditioning. Went to use it today and it is blowing nothing but warm air. Worked perfectly last time I used it last year. I thought about buying that 134a ac recharge kit from auto zone.
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I have an 07 6.0 with 400,000 miles. Has been a great truck with no major problems. Before I started the work I had 3 bad injectors, running rough and the oil/ coolant temp just outside of 15 degrees. So I tour her down and replaced head gaskets, installed arp studs,all new injectors,all new glow plugs and new oil cooler. Ran great for a couple days. Then when driving to work lost power on and off for a few miles then completely gone could only go 10 miles an hour. I checked codes and there was the under boost code witch has been on there for a while and I forget the other code but it was for the ipr valve so I replaced the valve and right after still the same but that code went away and the p0470 popped up. So I cleaned out the ep sensor tube and replaced the valve. After several miles she now runs great but now I'm getting a little puff of white smoke when I take off and not every time and mainly when I take off some what quick. All codes are gone expect the under boost. I have an egr delete already.
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I am going to install a coolant filter on my 2004 6.0 E350 van. I have read threads about bypass filters and full flow filters and I started asking myself "Why use a bypass when I can filter all of the coolant?"
Is there any reason why someone should use a bypass filter? I bought the van used knowing I would eventually have to do most if not all of the 6.0 repairs. IPR sells a complete coolant filter.
I talked with the people at FICM repair and they suggested I do my research but leaned towards the IPR cooler. Ed spent a good 30 minutes on the phone answering all my questions and never asked if I wanted to buy anything. If anything, he was trying to stop me from throwing money at the van until I isolated what needs to be repaired.
I already bought the Sinister Kit and requested a return.
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I picked up a 2003 6.0 awhile back went ahead and did studs,gaskets, delete. Was driving it and seemed to lose power, started coughing and carrying on blowing bluish white smoke then shut off. Ended up hydrlocking #5, Oring on injector was tore when took out. Put all back together, ran horrible, did a balance test with AE, showed #3 injector, replaced, ran horrible, did AE dropped #1 injector. So in process of replacing the rest of the injectors. Just wondering why it is or was dropping them 1 at a time. Ficm was showing 47.6 to 48.6 volts, could that be it?????
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I just recently repaired issues with my 6.0 and now new issues has begun. The turbo keeps blowing the pipes out of the rubber hoses. Not sure what is happening or why so a little insight would be useful.
Oh yeah out of all the work completed in my previous post..don't bother replacing the solenoid section of the injectors. I replaced two the bad ones, rebuilt the other 6 with new everything including a cleaning and now I am getting codes for 3 that are going bad. Oh well I tried right...
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Ac is no longer blowing cold air and was thinking about trying a can of ac pro on her. However, I have heard some pretty bad stories about people killing their compressors and overcharging the system. Is it not worth the risk.
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Replaced the vacuum solenoid.. Thought that would fix the ac blowing threw the defrost when I switch to 4x4, but didn't fix the issue, 4x4 works great. There is another little diaphragm that has a vacuum line to it that opens and closes, could this be causing the air to go defrost? I'm going to go to a buddies house and test for leaks this Saturday, just trying to get a jump on it...
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Just as the title says the ac on my truck is not blowing cold like it used to, it has enough air flow but it's just not cold?
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So the 04 is rolling down the road when the cluster gauges ping, the truck loses power/acceleration but the radio never goes out. Have a new alternator and batteries passed a check. It has done it three times. We are 1100 miles from home. OBD and cigarette lighter fuse was blown as well.
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I have an issue with my 6.0. I was running the extreme street tune from IDP for the past 2 years now and recently purchased the xtreme X tune from IDP. I loaded in the tune and had low boost, low power and horrible acceleration. Max boost i would see is about 10psi and it would take about a solid minute to reach highway speed when merging on the highway. I went back to the stock factory tune and have the same issue. No boost leaks from the boots or pipes and no check engine light. What is going on?
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I have an 03 6.0 Power stroke. My problem all started the other day when I started to occasionally not get any boost on acceleration and lose of power and a lot of vibration like it's about to cut out but it got worse now today I drove it about 5 miles into town when I got to town I noticed a rough idle I got gas in a gas can not in the truck. I got back in to leave and I had absolutely no power at all the truck stalled out and it was very hard to start finally got it started and it runs really rough almost like it's going to shut off.
So when I started driving I would only make it about a mile or so with out it chocking out and having to let it site for a minute or two and start it back up and go another mile or 2 and have it do the same thing all the way home all the time I have vary little boost if any at all except for when I first pull out now oil pressure is good and engine never over heated some of the codes I have is an EGR code and a contribution balance code for several cylinders I was thinking possibly a maf sensor or a clogged egr not working right.
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