Ford :: 2006 - Motor Mount And Front Stabilizer / Rattling Noise From Driver Side Engine Compartment
Jul 19, 2012
My 2006 AWD LTD 500 has about 52000 miles on it; a slight rattle/clunking noise is intermittently heard on driver's side in engine compartment. Took it in to dealer who says motor mount is cracked and front stabilizer bar joints are worn and both need replacing. Car has only been driven on highways or for short trips (3-4 miles) and has had no impacts nor been driven over rough roads or run over any potholes or such. Should the motor mount be damaged? At 52K miles?? Never heard of such a thing. Ditto, the stabilizer bar joints: worn out in under 60K miles? What can I do about this? Who seek relief from? Ford warranty is, of course, over, and supplemental warrenty will only cover motor mount replacement but not stab bar. Are these parts routinely wearing out at such an early date that repair shops can reap the rewards???
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Recently when I first start my car in the morning, there is a rattling noise, which sounds like it's coming from the driver's side of the engine bay, or possibly just under the drivers side door. It only lasts for a couple of minutes. It will increase I accelerate, and then decrease as soon as I lift off the gas. After a couple minutes, the rattling goes away, and everything is right in the world. Today I drove it around the block and parked while it was still rattling away. When I put it in park the rattling went away. I put it back in drive and it came back. Then as usual it finally went away whether in drive or park. I'm completely stumped on this one. It's an '08 2.4l GLS and has 138,000 miles.
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I have an 08 Sonata Limited. About a 3 months ago, a noise began appearing on the driver side, sounding like it was coming from the engine compartment, and it has become steadily worse.
Today, I am learned how to replicate the sound, but I cannot locate where it is coming from. Here is the scenario:
The sound is a squeaking, like 2 pieces of styrofoam being rubbed together. The sound comes and goes. The engine must be in Drive or Reverse, and under load, meaning the driver side tire must be on the ground. If I jack the car up so that the drivers side wheel is off the ground, and put it in D and let the tire turn freely the noise does not occur. The car does not need to be moving for the sound to occur; in fact, it sounds worse when the car is at rest.
Today, I jacked the car up and took off the drivers side front tire to see if I could identify the source of the noise. Later, I put the tire back on the hub, and without lowering the car, started to tighten the lug nuts. When, I tightened the nuts with a wrench, I began to slightly turn the axle and shift the location of the engine and lift it, and I heard the squeak! Obviously, the car was turned off, so I was able to repeatedly shake the wrench and slightly turn the wheel, which shook the engine, and repeat the squeak each time. I lowered the car and jacked up the passenger front side of the car and did the same thing; I was unable to get the sound to occur.
I could now identify the direction of the sound, and it was coming from under the air filter chamber. I tried removing the air filter box, but it is held in place by a rubber plug and the air intake tube. Unable to remove the box, I could not see exactly where the noise was coming from.
Is there a motor mount under the air intake box, or is there another part that may shift over time and begin to make this noise? My best guess is that when the car is in Drive and under load, the engine vibrations are causing something to make a squeaking sound.
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I'm new to the forum and Excursion ownership but was hoping someone could save me some time and aggravation chasing a rattle in my 2004 2wd 6.0 PS. It seems to be coming from the front driver's side since I can feel it through the steering wheel. As of now, it's nothing major since it doesn't seem to affect tracking but I'm afraid it's getting worse.
I'm thinking it's a worn bushing but as I'm less familiar with the vehicle as y'all are, maybe you can point out the weak points that may be causing my issue. I plan on jacking up the front end tomorrow and inspecting for play. I'll let you know what (if anything) I find. Are there any known issues I should be aware of?
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I was sitting at the stoplight in neutral when the light turned green. I pushed in the clutch and put the car in first then all of a sudden a huge CLUNK like when you take out the starter bolt without supporting the trans or motor. Then while letting out the clutch about halfway all hell broke loose. It sounded like a bunch of marbles rattling like crazy in the trans. I pushed the clutch back in then it stops until you let it back out again. The car still moves forward and reverse but with all that noise. The sound seems like it's coming from under the driver side motor mount. When I put my hand on the tranny I can feel the vibrations very well. Does this sound like the throw out bearing?
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I have a 1996 Ford Explorer (4WD model). Approximately 4 months ago I had a new set of tires put on it, and in the process of replacing the tires the shop noticed that I had a bad ball joint and one of my wheel bearings was going bad. They said the ball joints were known for completely failing, but the wheel bearings usually didn't, so they recommended that the ball joint be replaced first. That is what I had them do. I haven't had the money to get the wheel bearing replaced yet. This past week it got worse to the point where I can hear it now.
At low speeds I can hear a grinding/rattling-type noise from the front drivers side (that's the side that has the bad wheel bearing). At higher speeds the grinding/rattling-type noise fades away due to road noise, but I can still hear a humming-type of noise that is a bit loader than normal - this noise just started a couple of weeks ago so I'm suspecting that this might also be related to the bad bearing.
I won't have the money to get this fixed for another 2 weeks. In order for me to have the money in 2 weeks I will need to continue working at my job 2 days a week. It's approximately 2 hours round-trip from my home to my job. Obviously with the bearing sounding significantly worse I don't want to drive it any more than I have to, but the only way I can get the money to fix it is to keep driving it back and forth to work.
Here's my question. What risks am I running by continuing to drive this? Am I running the risk of the wheel falling off while I'm driving down the freeway at 70 mph? Am I likely to experience other damaged parts in that area of the vehicle?
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I can't get my front (passenger side) motor mount out because it's under the refrigerant line. How would I do that? There is a black, coiled "jacket" that goes around the line right before it enters the back of the radiator, can I detach it there? The line snakes all over the engine compartment and appears to be bolted onto the radiator on one end and the other end goes through a clamp and into the dash area. [URL]....................
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At this point I'm baffled. I've been hearing a grinding/rattling noise from the driver side wheel well for a couple months now. I was positive it was being caused by a bad hub, but the problem persists. Here is what I've done so far:
replaced brake pads and rotors -- twice; once before the hub went bad and once after. The bad hub warped the driver side rotor and afterwards passenger side would not stop squealing for some reason. replaced faulty wheel hub -- The bearing was totally shot, nearly 20* of play in it, should be totally rigid replaced faulty CV axle -- I suspect vibration from the bad hub destroyed the outboard CV joint, making popping/grinding noise while turning or going over bumps filled front differential -- it was a bit low on gear oil The grinding/rattling noise shows up when driving at freeway speed (around 55mph) and gets more pronounced as speed increases. The truck does not do this under acceleration but after speeding up, the rattling is the worst at light throttle (around 2k-2.5k RPM, in 4th gear/overdrive above 55mph).
I noticed that if I shift into neutral at freeway speed, the noise continues until the truck decelerates.
So at this point my thoughts are that it could be a bad differential, but I doubt it because the noise is almost imperceptible in the passenger seat. It could be a bad differential bearing on the drivers side (sounds like a worn out bearing to me). It could be any number of things in the transfer case or transmission.
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First issue started a few weeks ago. When turning left at a speed > 20mph or when turning wheel quickly I get a rattling noise, which is more prominent with the driver window down, so it sounds like it comes from the driver side front wheel, but not quite sure. It is fairly loud as I have had pedestrians look at my car when turning because they can hear the rattle.
Second issue started this morning but has persisted every time since. When the car is cooling down, we get that whirring noise, which I presume is thr coolant pump. That noise also happens now when I enter the car, and it is accompanied by a knocking noise as if somebody is hitting the outside of the car repeatedly. This is quite unnerving as it sounds like something is hitting the bodywork of the car. It stops immediately when the normal whirring stops.
I had the steering and water pump recall done in november last year, could this be related to that? Forgot ti add the car has done 49000miles....
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Any way, my 2007 Sonata with 57,000 miles just developed a whining noise on the right side of the engine compartment. It sounds like it is concurrent with RPM and I thought it might be the alternator, the drive belt or some pulley. I have even seen on the general internet that some others had a bad oil filter. To me, the noise seems to be coming from the alternator area. It is a relatively high pitched noise that almost sounds like an electric motor. Would love to get it fixed. I am nearing the 60,000 max on replacement from certain items and do not know if the alternator is covered.
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Started getting a noise a few minutes after startup. I can hear it click on and then it sounds like a loud electric motor/pump/fan type noise. Starts pretty loud, then gets quieter (but not gone) after 30 secs. If I turn off the engine, it stops and if I immediately restart, it's gone for a couple minutes.
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I have a 2009 toyota camry le 4 cyl with 170000 miles. I had my rear main seal replaced because there was an oil leak. Now after I got it back from the shop, there is a oil leak near the front motor mount and my engine had gotten louder when i accelerate. also it smells like paint or something inside my car. what did the shop do?
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I'm having a problem trying to locate what I assume is an oil leak. It is on the driver side and the whole engine compartment is wet on the side up on firewall beneath the master cylinder. And the whole underneath is wet also axles and leaf spring and can't find where it's coming from. I have sprayed it down with degreaser to try to pin point the leak still no luck. Truck has 236k on it also new hpop and turbo pedestal and checked the valley and its dry. Right now I'm at a loss. I'm leaning towards oil cooler but would a leaking oil cooler cause whole side of engine compartment to be covered?
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I have a 2009 Toyota Matrix S. There is a rattling noise coming from my engine compartment whenever i drive 60+ mph. It sounds like it's metal on metal. Nothing is loose inside. I took it to the dealer and they told me the water pump bearings were bad and replaced my whole water pump. That didn't resolve my problem. The rattling is still there.
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Looking for some detailed instructions on how to change the engine mount on the driver's side on 2004 r32. My mechanic will work on it but he mentioned that he might have to drop the transmission but I thought that this is not necessary.
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Well about 4 days after my HPOP replacement, the ol Ford is at it again. Apparently, one of my power steering lines has been rubbing on the top of my driver side front shock mount. It let loose in a giant black plume of black smoke and grinding gears as I was pulling into the corner store. Limped her home and inspected it. From what I see, its not a terribly expensive hose and shouldn't be too terrible to replace. One thing after the other [URL] .....
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Noticed a rattling sound from the front end of the car when hitting certain types of bumps/rough road. Turns out my right front stabilizer bar needs replacing. Dealer has ordered part, and it's covered under warranty. However, I thought stabilizer bars were supposed to be replaced in pairs. Do I need to ask them to replace both the front right and left, or is just replacing the right ok?
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I have a 2006 Camry LE 4 cyl. that developed a light, random (metal sounding) rattling noise under the hood, near engine on passenger side. It's present/noticable at idle and slow speed.
Car runs great otherwise and great gas mileage, pushing around 100k on odometer. Out of town with car otherwise would have looked at. Could something just be loose? Something in air filter? GF drove it down to FL and was fine before she left.
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I need to replace the motor mounts on my truck. Is there any special tools or tricks I will need before I get half way into it and find myself in a bind? Oh yeah it's a 5.4L
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Today while driving I noticed a knocking when turning right or going over bumps in the road. I finally got to look under the truck and noticed that I'm missing the nut on the top side of the front stabilizer bar link bolt assembly on the passenger side.
It's a '99 Ranger XLT 4x4. Is this unsafe to drive? Is there a bushing on the top?
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My passenger-side motor mount is cracked out. Is this a common failure? The aluminum part that connects the "frame" to the engine mount is cracked, the hydraulic rubber mount looks almost new, not sure how the previous owner missed the crack in the aluminum. Car has 140K miles on it. I'm thinking about just having it welded up.
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