Ford :: 2004 F150 - Shudder Suspected From Rear Differential
Jul 11, 2011
My 2004 Ford F150 only has 20,000 miles on it but makes a shudder from stop turning left or right. I asked the dealership about it and was told that it was likely the clutch pack in the rear differential sticking. I was told I could try changing out the fluid while also adding a few ounces of some special lubricant. But, they said it wasn't a guaranteed fix. Apparently, they have tried this fluid change and drive the vehicle in figure 8's trying to get the lubricant between the plates. They also said that this was a known problem to Ford. Lastly, I was told it wouldn't hurt anything to keep driving it. I checked some other online forums for Ford F150 owners and this does seem to be a recurring problem. I'm thinking about having the clutch pack replaced but obviously hate to spend the money if I don't have to.
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I have a 1989 ford f150 xlt lariat it has a 5.0 and a 5 speed and is 4 wheel drive. Any way I am looking into rebuilding the rear end of the truck the pinion shaft has a lot of play in it up and down and both outer axle bearings seem to have lots of play in them. I believe it is a 8.8 inch in the rear. Just wondering if there hard to rebuild or what it all entails I have never taken one apart before and want to know what I am getting into. I have access to a press and a pinion and carrier bearing puller. the axle bearings i have done tons of them but never had to pull out the carrier. wondering how to set turning torque and backlash etc... and torque specs for everything.
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It may sound silly, but can I lift my 04 explorer by the rear differential to change brakes etc? I have NOT had a Independant suspension vehicle prior to this and dont want to mess up anything. If I cannot use that point to lift it, where is a point to lift it using a floor jack so I can service the rear of the vehicle after I place it on jack stands?
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I got a new to me truck. It's a 2004 F150 Lariat 4x4 with the 5.4L. It's got a whine that I believe is coming from the rear differential. I'm going to change the fluid. My axle code is 26 which I believe is 3.73 non-limited slip. My owners manual says to use 75w-90 but I've seen a lot of posts on here that say to use 75w-140. Which is right or better? Also, is my rear differential the 9.75"?
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I have a 2007 ford f150 FX2 5.4 with 3.55 limited slip rear end. It has 68,000 miles and would like to change the rear differential oil. I have read and I know the oil it requires is 75w-140 plus the friction modifier. I would like to use mobile one. But was reading and the mobile one sites states that is already has friction modifiers. Is that ok to use on my truck? Using mobile one and not adding the extra modifiers?
Also some other brands say they have friction modifiers as well. Should I use mobile one and add extra friction modifier or just go with what it has already?
Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube 75W-140 LS contains special friction modifiers designed for limited slip-type differentials. In most applications, the addition of special LS (limited slip) additives is not required. For axles requiring the highest level of limited-slip performance, OEM specific LS additives can be added to this fluid.
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Alright so about a few weeks ago I started hearing what sounded like it was time for new brake pads. But the other day I turned the corner and my neighbor came up to me and said he heard my truck making a metal on metal type noise. So I said okay fml, took it to a local mechanic.
Called me today and said the brakes are fine but it's rear differential, he said they put the truck on the lift and used the stethoscope and heard a metal noise inside the rear differential and said that the fluid in there was very metallic.
I bought this truck about 7 months ago from the dealership. It has a total 90,000 miles on it. What does it look like this could cost me worst comes to worst?
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I have a 2006 fx4. And I am about it change the rear differential fluid. i want to know if i have a a limited slip differential.
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I am getting a little frustrated with a leak on my rear differential. The leak is on the front of differential rear-end just behind the four bolts you take off to remove the driveshaft. When you take the driveshaft out, there is a single bolt and the seal behind that is leaking. Here is my dilemma, I called my local ford dealership to find out what the torque rating on that bolt is so when I replace the seal I don't over-tighten. He told me there is no torque rating on it because I have to tighten, measure, tighten, measure the bolt. I was lost, I didn't have a clue what he was talking about.
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I have a (new to me about 40 days ago) 2004 F250 SD Lariat Crew Cab 4x4 6.0 diesel. 137,xxx miles.
I thought Id gotten a good "deal" on this truck when Id bought it however the last 40 days have been very expensive. The "stealership" I bought the truck from was on a 35mph rd and I couldn't test drive it at highway speeds. So I bought the thing "knowing" there were a few "minor" sniggles wrong... however once about 15 miles from the dealership/stealership and on a highway, the real fun began.
I had a terrible shake, shimmy and groan/whine at speed no matter if the truck was in gear or not.
Since that time ive repaired/replaced:
1) Both front hubs/bearings
2) Both front hub locks
3) Both front brakes and calipers
4) 4 New Hankook tires
5) Ford Dealership Diesel engine service/lube (essentially an expensive oil change)
6) Ford Dealership transmission service
7) Drained (with a siphon) and refilled the rear differential + OEM Ford friction mod.
Ive eliminated problem after problem after problem with this thing.... and yes, the truck does get better with each repair HOWEVER.... Ive still had this groan/whine from the rear end of the truck and a rumble from starting at a dead stop despite my changing out the gear oil in the rear diff.
So I take it today to a local shop (that I trust/sort of) for a 2nd opinion. Their technician takes the truck out for a test run and comes back in 10 min saying he has no clue but the sound was annoying and he'd need to put it on a lift if I could wait.
I saw the truck go up... a few parts get wiggled, some head scratching, saw the truck go down, watched another tech jump in and 2 techs run it out for a test drive.
When it came back, I watched the truck go up again on the lift... this time however they just lifted the rear and with one guy in a pit the other revved the motor. I watched as the wheels spun. A few minutes later both techs came in and said my "rear differential was shot".
They pulled the diff mag plug which was caked in metal deposits. It looked the same when I pulled it off the first time and did the fluid change (yes i cleaned off the plug before putting it back). I had seen differentials (in the past) have deposits like that before on plugs but the units were still good and such deposits were considered casualty of wear and tear.
However im being told the rear end is shot.. When I inquired about just replacing the internals of the diff, it was a simple bolt in/bolt out job.
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I have an 06 FX4 5.4 with the Evolution programmer. I am bringing the truck to Ford tomorrow to trade it in. I took out the programmer after returning the truck to the stock power level. Now the rear end has a wicked shudder when shifting, especially going first to second and much worse under heavy acceleration. The dealership drove the truck before I returned it to stock so the deal is made but if they drive it even a few hundred yards on the lot they will definitely notice it. I reprogrammed it to level 2 and the shudder is gone, but they told me to take the Edge out so what the heck should I do.
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In my case, from a stop, when I accelerate only in a turn left or right I get a shudder and shake from my rear end and it seems to be worse when the truck or air temp is colder.
well I went with the most basic thing first, popped the diff cover off, drained all the fluid, wiped out as much as I could get out of the collection area in the bottom. put a new gasket on and a little rtv, replaced cover. pulled the plug and cleaned off the shavings from the magnet and put new oil in it (I used Valvoline 75-90 with the friction modifier already in it, said limited slip right on the bottle)
test drove it around the block about a hundred times making left and right turns and the shudder and shake seemed to constantly decrease until it was perfectly smooth and noiseless!!! so that seemed to be an easy fix however I will report back to see what happens when I take it out cold in the morning.
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Well i picked up a 96 4x4 with the 4.0 a few weeks ago and been fixing stuff weekly that i find wrong. One thing i noticed was the rear diff was leaky but couldn't get the fill plug out so left if for now. Last night my wife was on interstate and it just started making a loud noise so she pulls over calls me. I get there and drive it and it makes a woowoowoo noise and it got louder as speed increased. She was 3 miles from the exit so i drove it about 15-20 to get it off interstate than another 2 miles to her sisters. We let it sit for a few hours and found a flatbed to haul it home, and when we finally got home i drove it off the flat bed and now it was making a loud clunky noise. Parked it in drive till today. Cracked open the rear and no fluid came out.
Inspecting all the gears looked good no metal in bottom so i went and got a new rear cover and 3 qt. of fluid. Put it back together and the woowoowoo was still there but seemed to slowly go away as i drove it around the block. So what else could be going on here or do i need to drive it and warm up the fluid so it circulates? I also noticed a sheeee sound like metal on metal when braking but i changed all 4 rotors and both pads last week but i noticed the brakes in the rear that look like drum brakes was bare but i assume that is only for the ebrake so didn't bother changing them yet. Could those be hitting the inside of the rotor and making the metal to metal noise?
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I currently have the rear axle shafts off the truck. I took off, cleaned then put on the rear diff cover.
I live in an area that does nothing but form rust anywhere and everywhere in very little time.
I don't want rust forming in the rear diff gears - can I fill the rear diff up ? Or will it leak out of the rear shaft holes ? Can I fill it up halfway then ?
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My husband's 04 F150 has an occasional ticking/clicking sound that comes from the right rear tire. It occurs in both drive and reverse, while braking or while driving and will stop with braking. We cannot establish a pattern. Brakes are good, we just checked them and they do not need to be replaced. We took it in to be evaluated, of course it did not make the clicking while they had it and they did not see anything to indicate an issue.
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A friend of mine has a 2004 F150. The tail lights and the 3rd brake light are working but the rear brake lights, flasher and turn signals have stopped working. What could be wrong? I googled the problem and did find one person with the same issue in a 2001 F150. There apparently was a recall (#05S28) of the SCDS (Speed Control Deactivation Switch) but that vehicle kept blowing fuse 13. My friend checked his fuses and they were all ok,
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Ok, I have a 95 F150 5.0. It's sat for 6 months with the engine taken apart. I just finished putting everything back together with a new alternator. Well, I pulled a bone-head move and forgot to connect the harness when I fired the truck up. Other than not charging though, it ran fine. When I connected the harness, it began to chirp and shudder at low RPMs and squeal and vibrate at higher RPMs and it over heated VERY QUICKLY.
So hot the case was too hot to touch and the pulley smoked the belt. The engine didn't even have time to get up to operating temperature. I've had the alternator replaced twice, and this last one tested good putting out 14.5 volts. The work I did on the engine was to replace the valve springs, install a direct drive timing gear, replace a spun harmonic balancer, bypass the smog pump because it froze up, new distributor, a new ECU and O2 sensor.
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Some of you may have seen my recent post about raising the X. Its about 5" higher in the rear. Prior to raising the X, I had a vibration at around 65 to 70 mph. It felt like a tire was out of balance. Go a steady slower speed or a steady faster speed and it would go away.
Since raising the X, the vibration is gone, which I thought was cool. But now I have a "grind" type noise coming from the rear. I have to do all the testing on the freeway. There are no issues, no noises at regular street speeds.
On the freeway, when accelerating fairly hard up a hill from say 65 to 80, I can hear sort of a rumbly, grindy noise from the rear. Its not really loud but I can hear and feel it throughout the cab. If I coast at around 70-75 mph (just keep the speed the same) on flat ground, I can hear it come and go when the X is truly coasting for a few seconds. If I get up to say 85 and let off the gas, I can hear it as I decelerate until I get down to around 65.
This all only happens between say 75 and 90. I get no noise below 65-ish.
I had the drive shaft out over the weekend. The u-joints had no play and were free moving. I did feel the smallest play in the slip yoke, so I gave it a good greasing. That didn't change anything.
I'm guessing the problem is in the differential somewhere. I have not pulled the cover off yet to check the fluid.
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Last week I broke the pinion and spider gears in in rear end. Well Im getting a used rear end rather than rebuidling mine. What is the gear ratio on the 97 F150 xlt 4.6l 4x4. I figured they would all be the same but my tag is missing on my diff and I was told by an auto parts store that there were a couple different ones.
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My rear-end differential came apart and is not repairable. I have a 1997 F150, 2WD, 4.6L engine, 5 lug wheels. Which years have the same rear ends so I can scour the junk yards for a replacement?
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Any likely culprits? 2002 F150 (with Triton V8 if that makes a difference).
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Have a growling noise in the rear when turning for the past two years. Getting worse so I assume I'm getting down to the metal on the clutches. Done all the other stuff like change the fluid and add friction additive. Have not pulled the cover and have the Mag Hytech diff that increases the capacity from 3 to 6 quarts of RP 75W-140 oil. Still does it. Just wanting to know if aftermarket clutch packs are available or is this a dealer only part. Ballpark how much are the clutch packs?
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