Ford :: 2003 Taurus Refused To Start Intermittently
Jun 23, 2014
My 2003 Taurus sometimes refuses to start. There's no real pattern: sometimes it's after the car has run for a while and other times not. Sometimes the starter clicks, other times the engine lights come on with no sound at all from starter/engine. Thing is, the car always ends up starting if I let it sit long enough (15 minutes--several hours). I've read around on the internet and realize this seems to be a problem experienced by many owners. I've changed the battery, checked all the connections, cleaned the starter connections and the Mass Air Flow Sensor. If the starter was bad, it seems like it wouldn't start at all, right?
View 1 Replies
Advertisement
I'm having trouble with my Taurus 2003 and the mechanic is struggling to find anything wrong;When idling, if I turn on the A/C on the car will start to shudder intermittently. It feels kinda like an engine misfire...The mechanic replaced the spark plugs and the trouble seemed to disappear but was back again after a number of weeks. When I took the car back the oil-seal was leaking so I got those replaced. It may possibly have been better for a few days [It's a bit difficult to gauge as the problem is somewhat intermittent] but then the problem was back.
View 14 Replies
My parents' car is a '99 Ford Taurus. The first time they go to start it in the morning, it either won't start or has some trouble starting. If it doesn't start, they can go back out a little later and it starts fine. Either way, once it does start, it runs fine for the rest of the day, and can be started with no trouble at all. Then the next morning the cycle begins again. It's been to the mechanic twice for this problem, but he can find nothing wrong with it. Btw, this problem has been happening in May and June, so cold weather is not responsible, it has been warm.
View 1 Replies
I have a Ford Taurus 2003 wagon. We bought it used in 2010. Initially we had the car checked out and only needed a transmission fluid flush because of a shift delay. We replaced the battery and oil changes for it on a regular basis. Last year, we had an issue where the engine would suddenly turn off while driving and then turn back on. The dealership said it was the synchronizer and replaced that. We also had then check out a burning scent and they said that it was from oil leaking from the engine.
I am not sure that they fixed what they said they did since it still smells and some times there is smoke or steam coming from under the hood on the right side near the windshield. A month later the car was still turning off while driving and the dealership said they didn't know why. We ended up taking it to Advanced auto parts and having the battery tested. The alternator needed to be replaced. We wasted a ton of money at the dealership... So mad about that and never going back there again. They clearly don't to a good job. We replaced the alternator.
So now, a few days ago, the abs and fuel lights came on while driving, and the radio also made a noise like an electrical surge type. ~10 minutes later I noticed smoke or steam coming from under the hood. What is going on with the car?
I am so anxious driving it since last year when the engine would turn off while driving. I have my baby in the backseat and I have already decided what to do if the engine catches fire. I want to get rid of this car and get a new/used one but my husband wants to keep it since it should be cheaper to fix then to get a new one. I don't want to spend a ton of money either, but I also want a car that will reliably drive us to work and daycare. Oh and of course the car works fine anytime when time my husband is driving it, but that is only on the weekends occasionally.
View 1 Replies
2003 Ford Taurus, 49k miles, 3.0 OHV V6 (Vulcan).
It's my daughter's car, she's away at college, so it only gets driven once a week at the most. For the last year or so when I turn the key to start, the starter starts to turn, hesitates for a second, and then turns over and starts the car. I've been assuming the battery was a little run down from sitting so much. There are no noises, clicking or grinding, just this slight hesitation. The battery terminals are clean.
Last night it wouldn't start on the first try, I had to turn the key 2 to 3 times before the starter would turn the engine over. I took the battery to Advance Auto and it tested fine but needs a charge (~12.2V). I'm slow charging the battery with a Battery Tender so it's going to take a while.
This hesitation, is it a sign of a failing starter?
View 6 Replies
So I have been fighting an electrical issue off and on since I bought the Excursion and I am at my wits end!
Put in 2 injectors. 1 in November and 1 last week. Thinking that it would fix my P0603 and the missing issue I was having. Plus the truck tossed a code for #4 and #5 injector. According to a snap on scanner and my AE the injectors were bad. The missing issues are gone, but I keep getting a p0603.
Go back to the middle of May. Truck died and refused to start. I put a fuel pump in it due to lack of fuel at one point thru the no starts. Shop had it 2 weeks and replaced the Cam sensor. Truck has been spot on for the last month zero issues.
Fast forward to today! Hooked up the trailer and loaded my tow tune. Check codes before hand and have a P132b code. Look it up and is a multitude of things to check. Clear code, tune the truck and head out for the weekend. Sat in traffic for 95 minutes to go 13 miles to the highway I needed to get to.
Driving the truck I had zero issues, until I got off the exit ramp to the campground. During the 2 hour drive I monitored a few pids on the scan gauge to see how things were on the truck after the work. The following are driving down the road at 2k RPMS 70 MPH give or take 5 MPH.
boost 7.3
map 22.9
EOT 225
FWT 211
TFT 163
CPM .28
ICV 1.9
VGT 57
IPR 37.3
CVI 4-5 (fluctuates)
SYNCH went to 0 when it died.
Truck shuts off and restarts right away and keeps running. I get to the campground and hook up the tuner to the truck and I have 2 different codes. My buddy the KAM P0603 and a new one Crankshaft sensor Pos A/ I can not remember what the code # was.
So after dropping 1500.00 on the truck the last 2 months, I am at a loss. The shop I took it to was a new place for me and I was not impressed. The lack of communication, 3 scratches on the truck and saying the truck had a miss and they didn't look at the injectors at all.
The 2 options I have are 45 miles away or 100 miles away. After today I believe it is an electrical issue and would rather spend a weekend of my time trying to find it. Where are the known chaffing points on the 03' 6.0L.
View 2 Replies
We have a 2007 Prius with 70,000 miles on it. Twice now, the car has refused to start. Yesterday we tried to jump start it, got nothing. We went shopping with the other vehicle, came home, and then it started when my husband unlocked the car with the remote. It happened again today. I always use the smart key, it wouldn't start. Dead! My husband took me to work, then came home, unlocked it with the remote and it started again. What's up with that??? We just had it serviced a few weeks ago.
View 19 Replies
Friday of last week my wife's Corolla refused to start. It cranked strongly but refused to catch. Fearing the worst my mechanic father-in-law assumed the timing belt had gone and we spent the weekend replacing that. The tensioner bearing had seized leaving the timing belt glazed but intact and, as far as we could tell, the timing was still correct. We replaced the belt and closed her back. Tired turning it over, nothing. Father-in-law noticed he didn't hear the fuel pump turn on when the key was placed in the ON position so he replaced that and the fuel filter. Turns out that the fuel pump only comes on when it's cranking? Who knew? We didn't. So that's been replaced.
At this point we have it towed to the shop where my father-in-law works(After this point all my information is second hand). We were going to let Big Al, their resident diagnostician, hook up his magic boxes and tell us what's wrong. Big Al suggests it's the distributor so that's changed but it still doesn't run. Big Al suggests that we set the timing incorrectly. That is torn apart again and, remember this is second hand information, "it was right but it was wrong". Whatever, they get it back together and it cranks and runs! Hooray!...but not so fast.
Next morning father-in-law arrives at work and gets bubkis. Cranks, sounds like it wants to start but won't. Somehow Big Al determines it's the PCM and that the car is getting "too much of a fuel pulse from the injectors" I ask if they are able to pull any codes from the computer and I'm told that they can't get any codes from ODBII scanner because it can't communicate with the car's computer. Also it's found that the catalytic converter is completely shot.
View 19 Replies
I have an LS600hl (2008) that has behaved spectacularly well, except until recently when it started to deplete the key fob battery fast! I resorted to replacing the batteries once a week (yes it was that bad). that was up until today when the car refused to start completely. Everything in it is dead, including the horns.
View 3 Replies
I have a 96 Buick regal v6 3.8L. It ran good. Started from last winter, it started to act up. In the morning, 98% OF the first attempt to start the car failed: it started but died in a few seconds, but the 2nd attempt always got it start. One month ago, I drove it for 1.5 hours, and parked there for 15 minutes, could not get it started, opened up the hood, waited for 15 minutes, it started. Then I drove it to a auto shop, they replaced the starter. One five days later, I could not started it again after 1.3 hour driving and parked for 20 minutes. Wait for 15 minutes, it started again. The odd is that when it refused to start, the radiator gap is very hard (but not over heated yet), after started it and drove for 30 minutes or so, I feel the gap is cooler than when it would not start.
I drove it back to the shop, they could not any problem. Drove it back. three day later, it stalled when driving. I didn't realize the stall until I need to turn: lost steering and brake power, then notice that the whole dash board doesn't have any light on. Since the car shut it off only after half mile driving, it doesn't looks like heat related (It was on the mountain, it was about 70 F). Then I sent the car to a different shop.
At the shop, they took off the ignition model and tested it good, and put it back. Since then, they started the car several times per day. Finally, on one day, the car shut itself off after running for 2 hours, and they could not start it. However, they checked and didn't find any code was set (they said because service engine light was not on). The shop have been trying to start the car several times per day for 10 days they didn't have another failure. I am not sure what to do with the car. I read posts here, and have the shop checked short circuit, ground fault, fuel wiring harness, catalytic converter, they didn't find anything, and they said that fuel pump seems ok.
I plan to replace crank sensor, fuel filter, and fuel regulator sensor and use the car for work commute (2 miles). what should be done on the car (since it is old car with 120K on it, I don't want to spend more than $500 dollar on it unless I am sure the problem can be fixed).
View 4 Replies
I have a 2005 Hyndai Accent. When it started getting really cold the car began to have issues starting. I turn the key and it tries to start. The battery is fine. I thought it might be something in the fuel line so I had the car towed to the local garage and they said they put the car in the garage and it fired right up. After that the car was fine for a couple weeks. Superbown Sunday after the game I went to get it in and it would not start. On a hunch I went got a bottle of heat put it in and it started right up. It was fine until I refilled the tank then it refused to start so I put more heat in it and it started. I did this once more and it worked. One night after work it wouldn't start so I put heat in it and it would not start. I messed with it for about 2 hours finally I was able to push it down a hill pop the clutch and it started. I took it back to the shop it was in there for 3 days and they were unable to reproduce the problem. Since then every time it is cold it refuses to start I have to push start it every time. Luckily this is still working. I am fed up I dont know what to do with it. Every time I take it to the shop and they cant reproduce the problem it costs me money and I am sick of it.
View 12 Replies
Several tries at power button failed. Icon on dashboard (small car image) flashing whether nor not I was in the car. Lights worked and emergency flashers worked. After many tries, called AAA. The AAA driver got in the car and it started right up and has worked ever since. Called dealer. Never heard of such a thing. What happened.
View 1 Replies
I drove my 1998 VW passat to work last week, a day after changing spark plugs, fuel and oil filter, and engine oil. After work, the car refused to spark. Had to leave it overnight. Till today, the vehicle has refused to spark even though my electricians keep telling everything seems to be ok. The latest I was told was that the engine has lost pressure. What does that mean and what is the possible remedy?
View 4 Replies
Several months ago, my truck begins having starting issues. Intermittently, the truck will not start, even though it cranks fine. I have done the following:
- checked inertia fuel switch. Okay.
- checked connections under hood for corrosion. Okay.
- checked fuses & start relay. Also swapped relays with no luck fixing the problem.
- sprayed water at various locations under the hood and bed, since the problem occurs more often when raining. No luck stressing the problem.
- changed fuel filter a couple weeks ago. No luck fixing the problem.
- changed battery over the winter (due to my 8 year old battery was becoming weak). No luck fixing the intermittent starting problem.
- changed the starter a month ago (since the truck stopped cranking). No luck fixing the intermittent starting problem.
- Installed a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail.
- Tried banging on the fuel tank with a rubber mallet. No luck fixing the intermittent starting issue.
When the truck refuses to start, the fuel pressure reads 0. Sometimes I can wait 5-10 minutes, and it will start. The truck runs fine after starting.
Sometimes waiting 5-10 minutes will not solve the problem (fuel pressure remains 0). Then, I hook my battery charger to the battery, and the voltage climbs from ~12.5V to 14.7V. The fuel pressure climbs to 30, and the truck starts.
I'm apprehensive to change the fuel pump, since it seems like more an electrical problem than a pump problem. Any diagnostic test that will tell the true problem source?
View 15 Replies
The past few weeks my truck has occasionally shown no signs of life when trying to start it. It goes through the "Wait to Start" routine and then when the key is turned ... nothing. No clicking, no cranking, nothing. All other electronics seem to work just fine.
This might happen only once ... or up to three times before it decides to crank. So far, it has eventually started on subsequent tries. When it does finally crank, it fires right away as usual and everything is as it should be and it runs great. No unusual smoke, noises or anything else.
This may be unrelated to the above issue but I noticed that lately once in a while, the back up sensors remained silent while I'm reversing and close to an object when I know they should have been beeping. (the audible override was not turned on either).
I may be grasping at straws here but would anything going wrong with the gear selector shifter cause both of these problems to surface? Like the lever isn't seating correctly and causing these issues? I also realize the two problems could be (and possibly are) totally unrelated.
I can live with the backup beeper not working but I can't survive with the truck being unreliable and not starting whenever it feels like it. It has newer, strong batteries and when it does crank, it's a "strong, fast" crank like normal.
View 7 Replies
This 2005 LeSabre with a 3.8 v-6 ran fine but had a marginal battery. Then the key got left on overnight leaving the battery totally dead. After jumping the battery and letting it charge, the engine cranked fine but refused to start. Haven't had a chance to check for fuel or spark. Why would a dead battery trigger this no start condition?
View 2 Replies
2002 F350 7.3 intermittently wont start after I've shut it off, it runs fine but sometimes won't start when it's (warm)? Wait hour or more and it starts right up.
Is there something I can look for before I bring it to a mechanic?
Just to clarify I am a gal with little wrenching skills but I can look at videos and follow directions if it's not too involved.
View 14 Replies
Just got myself a gently used Econoline E-350 7.3 Diesel and was loving it when she ran:
E-350 7.3 Diesel
Recently I have been having some charging issues. It started with it intermittently having a hard time to start, especially when it was warm. I carried a jump box with me and that always seemed to work. Then I noticed the voltmeter on the dash dropping. It went down to the 8 and I was like something is wrong.
Checked the battery voltage, it was at 9.6v. OK, maybe alternator isn't charging. Advance Auto tested the alternator, said it was bad. I replaced alternator. No difference. I pulled the battery and ran it on a conditioner to bring it up to proper voltage. It's now at 12.6v resting. Starts the van no problem. When running though the voltage doesn't increase to 13-14 volts like it should though telling me the alternator isn't doing it's job. Increasing engine RPM actually decreases voltage? Checked all the obvious things like bad grounds but everything seemed clean.
The only thing that was fishy was when I pulled the three way plug from the alternator, one of the pins had corrosion on it. I cleaned it up before installing the new alternator. I didn't do a diode test on the new alternator because I figured it was new, but hey maybe I got a lemon?
Anyway I'm going crazy trying to figure out where the problem is. All fuses are ok. Is there an external regulator or something I should be on the lookout for? Is there anything else that could be causing a non charging issue? The battery was manufactured in 2014 so it's relatively new.
And on a random note my ABS light is now on?
View 8 Replies
We have a '92 Pontiac Trans Sport with a 3.1L V6 TBI engine. Last Sunday evening it refused to start like someone left the transmission in Drive and the Park/Neutral switch was preventing it to start. There's the buzz sound from the fuel pump when you put the key on then nothing when you turn it to start the engine.
I checked the Park/Neutral swith by connecting an ALDL cable to the OBD port and it indicates correctly when I move the lever to Drive or Parking/Neutral. The only error code stored is "Fuel Pump Relay" but the Fuel Pump appear to be working?!
Battery is good, fuel pump fuse intact and the Park/Neutral switch appear to be working. How we can tackle this problem?
View 12 Replies
I have an issue with my 2001 f350 7.3 PSD. Intermittently it will not start. It will crank really quick, but will not even try to start. I think it is not getting fuel. There are no CEL codes and I have a WTS light and the tach is moving while cranking. I hear a clicking/buzzing sound coming from under te center opf the dash. When I hear that sound it will not start. checked fuses and relays and it started before. not sure if removing the fue made whatever reset. this has happened a couple times. Now it will not reset. When I remove the number #24 fuse under the hood, the clicking stops. when i crank it, but still doesn't start. When it starts in runs perfect. Drained the batteries trying to trouble shoot, but have them charger now.
View 14 Replies
My Daughters jetta will at time no start after it has been locked then unlocked. She told me that if the car doesn't beep when locked she sometimes has the problem.
The dash will light but no crank at all. Could this be an alarm issue or something else? I found others having a similar issue on Google but no fix or confirmation of the cause.
View 8 Replies
