Purchased a 2003 Police Interceptor (Crown Victoria). Air conditioner compressor will not come on during the first 10 minutes, then works fine. Why and what might need to be fixed.
View 3 RepliesWife is driving my F-150 and the AC cuts out about 15 minutes into the drive. It may or may not come back on. Getting check engine light code cylinder D. Clear that out and AC again works for 15 minutes. Told I have a vacuum leak. Have the dash apart looking.
View 5 RepliesOur Air conditioner keeps on for about 5 minutes then cuts off. If we turn the car off and immediately back on it comes back on for another 5 minutes. we have taken it to the dealer twice at ca. 200 a pop and they say they have fixed it each time but they haven't.
View 7 RepliesWorks approximately 10 minutes, then blows hot air.
View 1 RepliesI own a 2007 Camry LE. It's 4 cylinder and has 80k miles. Since I can remember, the A/C takes a really long time to start blowing cold air.
I'm in Miami, where ambient temp is about 90 F every day and it takes about 2-3 minutes to blow cold air. I can tell because this usually happens when I get around a certain street (SW 40th Street), so the problem is self-replicating regularly.
My father is a house A/C mechanic and he filled it with refrigerant but this has not fixed the problem. If the car has been driven and been parked under shade, the A/C blows cold air since the start. After being driven for 2-3 minutes, it blows cold air like a monster, I usually have to run it on 70 % cold and low fan - that's how well it performs.
When going down the road, the air blows threw the defrost and on the down hill it comes back to the vent.
View 14 RepliesSo my a/c works some times. I'll get in it in the morning, turn the a/c on. It works great, ice cold blowing hard. Then I'll turn the fan down from high and in a minute or so the cold air stops and it blows warm. Then for the rest of the day it wont blow cold air(i get in and out of my truck a dozen or so times through out the day turning the truck off each time). my dad has a freon pressure gauge. We checked it and it had good pressure. the blue gauge was at 50 and the red was a hundred and some i forget, but dad said "that's where it should be" so i guess that's not the problem. I am wondering if there is switch bad or a sensor. Its an '02 fx4 f150 4x4 140,000
View 1 RepliesThe AC in my 03 Corolla stopped working. A Mechanic originally diagnosed it as low in Refrigerant - brought it up to full charge. Stopped working again in a couple of days. I took it to a different mechanic who confirmed that there was no leak and it had a full charge. He could make the compressor come on by shorting a connector (located near the compressor). Otherwise the compressor does not come on when the AC is turned on from the switch inside. The blower fan works OK. The fuse is OK. The relay works OK.
The mechanic tells me that the only thing could be that the PCU ( the computer?) has gone bad and that only the dealer can replace it and reprogram it. The car has done 120,000 miles and I am wondering if its worth spending that much money to get it fixed -- that is if the PCU is the real problem. Could it be something else? Is there a way to get a used PCU and have it installed by a mechanic other than the dealer?
My A/C will blow cold for about 3 min. and then stop for 10 min......then cold again for 3 min.....then warm for 10 min.......what is going on ? It does this when on climate control and on A/C . I had a compressor go out about 1 1/2 yrs. ago due to a fan failing...the compressor tore apart... This is not acting like that though .
View 9 Replies1998 F150 tries to start on its own. It starts and drives fine, then stop, take key out, wait few minutes then it tries to start on its own. I unhooked the battery cable.
View 1 Replies'01 F150 XLT 5.4L EFI 207,000 miles
I've had this truck since '03 @ 45,000 mi and have loved it ever since. It hasn't failed me yet, until now. Living in TX with no A/C is the pits,
He first replaced the large hose assembly (with a non Motorcraft part) due to a pinhole then recharged the system. It cooled great until the pressure pop off valve (or whatever it's called) blew all the freon out.
His first suspicion was the fan clutch, which was replaced with a motorcraft fan clutch. Next he used his a/c machine to evacuate/flush/recharge the system - problem persisted. Lastly, he cleaned the radiator and condenser fins and recharged again. The system still overheated and lost the freon.
While the freon is in the system it cools like never before but after driving it, parking for a while, then re-starting it overheats within minutes.
My '03 Ranger started making a knocking noise last summer after 15 minutes of driving but only when the temp. outside is over 80 degrees or so. It stopped during the cold months but has resumed this summer. It is a low knocking sound and a) the vehicle must be moving, b) it has to have been moving for 15 minutes or so and c) it must be over 80 degrees outside. I can feel it under my feet and thru the steering wheel but mechanics say that they don't hear it and can't find it because they are getting into the vehicle after it has had a couple of minutes to cool down. Mechanics tell me that they have checked the universal joint and that it is fine. I need a brave mechanic to drive along side of me in another vehicle, going 45 miles per hour for 15 minutes and then they need to jump over into the driver's side and take over the wheel (like in the movies) so that maybe we can find what is making the noise. It makes this noise whether the vehicle is in 4wd or 2wd or the A/C is on or not.
View 8 Replies1997 F150, 4.2L V6 200k miles. Truck has been running fine. No CEL, or anything. Stopped and filled up the tank and within 10 minutes of leaving the pump, the CEL came on. Code is P0430.
I drive this truck 60 miles a day. It's shown no signs of any issues until the light came on today. Just curious if some bad gas could cause this or am I in for CAT replacement...
Ok this is actually on my girls car, a 2000 Altima. But i know all newer AC systems work the same. Cus its the same set up as my 98 f150. But the AC will work great for the first 15 mins or so then i notice the pump stops working(not cycling on/off) So i turn it off for 5 mins and then it starts working again and i hear the pump engaging, but it will only work for like 5 mins now. Could it be a bad pressure cycling switch or clogged condenser and gettn the AC too hot and it shuts down.
View 3 Replies2000 F-150 Triton V-8, Super Cab, 2WD, ~170,000 miles, 4-wheel ABS (one speed sensor on each front wheel and one on the rear differential). The ABS light comes on a few minutes after driving. It seems to take a little bit longer for the light to come on when the weather is colder.
I used a Cen-Tech 60794 OBD II/CAN with ABS scan tool with key on, engine off, and the below sequence. No codes were detected. I then left the scanner connected but powered off and drove around until the ABS light came on. Pulled into a parking lot with engine running, powered up the scan tool and went through the following menu choices:
Diagnostics
ABS
Area - USA vehicles
Model - Ford
Although the tool's instruction manual has several more items that may or may not be required (VIN digits, model year, etc), the next thing I saw is a message indicating the scanner is linking with the vehicle computer. During that time the ABS light went out. Next on the scan tool display my choice was to read codes or erase codes. I selected "Read codes" and the display said there are no codes in the module.
I have a 2002 F250 7.3 4WD automatic with 313,000 miles. A week ago it started stalling after it idled for 10 minutes. It acted like it wasn't getting fuel. It would sputter a few times then just quit. I changed the fuel filter and the truck ran fine the rest of the day. Since that day, it has acted the same way every morning at 1st startup. It idles fine for 10-20 minutes (depending on how cold it is outside), then hesitates a little, then stops. After going through 3 new fuel filters (thinking I had bad fuel), I stopped putting in a new filter every morning, and found that if I just waited 4 or 5 minutes, it would start and run fine after that. It then runs fine the rest of the day.
After it stalls, it will not start right away. I need to wait a few minutes. I've tried draining the fuel filter bowl also. No luck. I tried a new Cam Positioning Sensor. It seems to be related to temperature. It's been getting down to 30 degrees Fahrenheit the past few mornings. It starts fine and idles fine until the temp gauge just starts to move. Then, the stall happens. My fill-up just prior to this happening was with B20 Bio Diesel. I suspected that for a while. But, I've ran all that fuel through plus 4 or 5 regular diesel tanks through, so I no longer think it was related to that. It do see the check engine light when it stalls. I had a shop read my codes and the only code was bad KAM memory. The mechanic said that code shows up all the time on these engines and not to worry about it.
I have a '00 Ford ranger and a '99 f-150 , when leaving the doors open , interior lights go off after 10-15 minutes in the ranger but not on my 150. Is there a relay or something aftermarket that makes this possible on the 150 ?
View 3 RepliesI'm driving a 2000 F150 with the Triton V8 5.4L.
My check engine light came on the other night while heading home. I went to Auto Zone and had them scan it and it came back with the P0125 error code.
My guess is that the thermostat is faulty because my heater is blowing lukewarm air after about 20-30 minutes of normal driving and I would expect the air to be much warmer so I'm thinking that the engine is not getting up to normal operating temperature.
I understand that this can be bad for fuel economy and such, but my question is it safe to drive?
I had planned on hunting up in the hills tomorrow all day and just want to know if this could cause any damage?
Here's a picture of what my cluster looks like after running for about 30 minutes.
Cluster after 30 minutes of driving.
The truck runs great when first starting up and driving, after 10 min a cylinder start to miss the same one ..
View 11 RepliesMy f250 is having a stalling issue. It will run fine for about 5-10 minutes and then die out, already replaced CPS, fuel filter, and fuel pump. What else could be the problem?
View 4 RepliesI have had my excursion for almost 4 years, I love this truck. but lately we have been having issues that we haven't been able to figure out. First it has about 390K miles on it.
I ALWAYS have to plug it in. it could be 90 degrees out and I still have to plug it in. if it Is plugged in normally it will start fine. but then when I go to drive it, it wont have any power until I get like 2 miles down the road. you can push the pedal all the way down and it will go like 10mph. but once it warms up its fine. if I forget to plug it in, I will have to plug it in for about 2 hours and then it will start hard and run really rough for about 10 min. And it will blow greyish smoke out the exhaust.
But now I'm having the issue of keeping it running. it will start and run for 5-15 min and then quit and I have to wait anywhere from 10min - 1 hour to start it again.