Ford :: 2001 Mustang V6 Stalling And Misfiring At Red Lights
Jun 22, 2012
I have a 2001 Ford Mustang, V6, 3.8 Liters, automatic transmission, 120,000 miles. Recently, my car has started to stall/misfire at when I come to a full stop at a red light. It feels like the car is going to shut down and like it has no power. I have to press the gas really hard to get it to pick up power and speed. It doesn't happen every time and I've noticed that it happens less early in the morning or at night, and it happens more often during the day when it is really hot (I live in Az and temperatures are currently in the 100sF).
The "service engine" light is not turning on. The battery was checked and it's fine (recently replaced in September 2011). The alternator was changed 1 month ago. The cooling fan was replaced 1 month ago. I took it the the Ford agency and no codes are turning up and they can't seem to duplicate the problem even though the ran the car for 15 miles. They checked coils, spark plugs, fuel injectors, fuel filter, gas pump pressure, and it all seems fine. They advised that I fill up my gas tank with Premium gas and add fuel injector cleaning fluid. I did and the problem is still there. They then advised to fill up gas tank again with Premium and add Techrnon additive. I did and the problem is still there.
I am scared that my car will stall and turn off while doing a left turn with oncoming traffic or in the freeway.
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I have an 2006 f-150 King Ranch with 103k miles and it was misfiring and then stalling when stopping at lights. Both cam shaft sensors and all coil packs were relaced then it was still misfiring. The head was recently replaced and now they are waiting on a new computer. When it starts misfiring it vibrates the whole truck and the engine light flashes. If you turn the truck off then back on it will run fine for about 50 miles. Im worried that replacing the computer is not going to fix it, what else could it be?
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My 06 Elantra started to stall / misfire when I was driving it. It doesn't seem to matter how fast I am traveling as it will " misfire" for lack of a better word. It has an automatic transmission, and the rpm's will start to bounce as the car begins to jerk when this occurs.
I don't live anywhere near a dealership, so I brought it to the garage that I take my other vehicles to, and they had a hard time diagnosing the problem due to the fact that there never was an error code coming up or check engine light. They ended up finding a bad coil and changed it out.
That was 2 months ago and I haven't had a problem with it till today when the exact same issues resurfaced. And again no check engine light comes up, just the misfiring and when stopped at intersections, subsequent stalling.
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I have a 94 Cobra Mustang with a 5.0. For the past few months it has had an erratic Idle and stalls when trying to idle. I've had a number of suggestions on how to fix it and nothings seems to work. I checked for vacuum leaks, changed PCV, new plugs, new IAC valve, tested ICM and throttle TPS and even adjusted idle. Still no luck.
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My 1990 mustang 5.0 LX has a very consistent stalling problem when travelling long distance on the highway at a good speed. After 2 hours of driving highway speeds and then pulling off the highway, the car stalls after I brake or stop at a light. I don't know why this seems braking related, but not sure. I then sit and crank the motor and it cranks for a bit and starts right up. I think it's fuel, but now sure yet.
Here's what I have done:1. Tune-up: plugs, wires, cap, rotor2. new fuel pressure regulator3. new fuel filter4. new fuel cap5. Checked for vacuum leaks (none found)
It seems to not happen when the gas tank is low, but I can't swear to it.
I'm going to run a fuel pressure gauge to the futhel rail and see if I can catch the drop off of fuel pressure when it occurs. Also, I noticed that the gas cap does not hiss when I unscrew it at any point in time.
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I've got a 2000 Ford Ranger, manual 4 cyl. When cold, she's been stalling out. It happens very reliably when I come to a stop and put it in neutral (or put the clutch in). Only when she gets warmed up does it stop. Check engine light has been on (for a long time) saying the TPS sensor is out and the 4 cyl. is misfiring. I replaced the TPS sensor and it had no effect on the problem. A friend recommended changing the oxygen sensor.
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I recently bought a 05 f150 with 5.4 3v and 195k miles needing some work. Ran great, just had a code for timing over retarded. Originally it had a cracked timing cover, so i took it off to replace and found broken guides and bad tensioners on timing. I installed new guides, chains, and tensioners, and cleaned phasers, and put back together only to find it ran terrible and had a phaser rattle. I then went in and installed phaser locks, which took care rattle but not the running issues. I can not figure it out.
ISSUES: My issues almost mirror what is said in this thread here, but this issue was never solved. [URL] ....
My issue is when started cold it starts right up, idles ok, runs ok, although a bit sluggish. Once its warm it stalls at idle, shudders when giving throttle in overdrive, and if you kick it down it will continually backfire, and slowly accelerate... it kicks down but acts like its only getting 1/8 throttle, just kind of hangs at the same rpm and slowly climbs in rpm. Sometimes it wont backfire as much, and sometimes the check engine light flashes. After it stalls at idle and you start it back up it sounds like it shudders/backfires for a split second then starts.
It is throwing many engine codes, but most are from the phaser locks. Throws code for timing over advanced on each bank (phaser locks lock them fully advanced), cam timing codes for each bank, and then a code that doesn't have to do with the timing, P2106. I am going to run some live diagnostics on it today and report back but I am fully at a loss.
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2001 hyundai elantra. Car is almost stalling randomly at stop lights. Low rpms under 500 and stops. Sometimes drops to 100 rpms then shoots up to 500 right before it might stall. Engine light came up got misfire on cylinder 2 and 4 with codes p0440 and u0d00.
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This has been happening intermittently for a while now. The car has about 97k on it and I within the last 1000 miles have replace the timing belt, water pump, coolant temp sensor, tensioners, thermostat, and MAF (OEM BOSCH from ECS).
The car was overheating; all the cooling/timing related stuff was changed, no issues for a few weeks. Then it started misfiring and stalling like a madman in cyls 2 and 3. Ran ran if for the code pulled the MAF and sure enough it looks like the PO never cleaned it as there were probably 2mm of buildup on it; as preventative maintenance I went ahead and just replaced it completely.
Now, less than a week after I replaced the MAF the car will make random little popping noises under hard acceleration, and randomly will just completely stall; without showing the battery or check engine lights, similar to how it was stalling right before the MAF went bad. I live three miles from my office and it has happened going to and from every day for the past two weeks.
As far as I know the car is mostly stock (I purchased in in March). However it does have a knockoff BPV of some sort that I think could be causing the issue as the popping noise sounds like its coming from the passenger side of the car. What this might be (if it's not the BPV).
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I've had a 1991 buick skylark for 3 years, just hit 100,000 miles, and for the past few months i've been having problems with it stalling out/misfiring when I press the gas, almost like a lawnmower running out of gas, and then catch and go fine. it was only happening at the 3rd gear change,(randomly but only at that change), and then it started happening only at the 2nd gear change. it first happened at the end of a long road trip, and the speedometer and odometer stopped working at the same as well, but have since returned. but now it's been happening on cross town trips.
Every time it has happened has been random, and it always corrected itself and was fine. but this last time, it was doing it consistently, at random gear changes and from idle. it finally gave out at a stop sign and it barely stuttered across the intersection, but with the check engine light on and never "catching on" or actually dying/cutting off. I took it to my local shop, and they ran all the computer test and road tested it and told me they couldn't find anything wrong. they tested the fuel pump, which had good pressure. They mentioned it might be the module, but were honest and didn't want to charge me for something they couldn't tell was actually wrong. any clue?
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I was driving when I noticed my interior lights didn't shut off. After which I pulled over shut my doors and trunk and the lights still wouldn't turn off. I kept trying to shut them off, I also used my car clicker to lock my doors (which before would shut them off as soon as I hit the lock button) but they still stayed on. I am currently pulling the interior light fuse to shut them off so it doesn't drain my battery.
I tried to look up solutions but so far nothing has worked.
*I tried to turn the nob that also controls my headlights but still nothing
*I pushed in the switchs and it doesn't appear anything is wrong with them
One solution suggested that there was another fuse that controlled a timer but I'm not sure what fuse its talking about.
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it's been parked for about 2 months in my driveway, which slants upwards. I cranked it for a solid 30 minutes (jumped the battery so it wouldn't die). I don't smell gas so I think gas isn't making to the motor.
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My 01 mustang gt which I have never had any problems with, well one day while coming home from school out of nowhere it didn't want to start at all ,all it did was a "clank" noise and I thought it was the battery so I got a friend to pass me cables but it still didn't start , but its a stick shift and I know that most of the time they start with a little push and it turned on and I was able to make it home but when I tried turning it on again it would just make a "clank" noise so I assumed it was the starter so I replaced it but it still didn't start so I went ahead and bought a new battery and now it started ,so I thought the problem was fixed but the next day around 7pm after using it for a while throughout the day all my electrical power shut down even my dashboard didn't mark anything but the car kept running until I made it home so I turned it off and tried turning it back on but it wouldn't start like the battery didn't have any power to make it start because the engine was trying so I left my battery charging for a couple of hours and it turned back on so I tried going to the corner store today but now my car shut down completely it left me on the middle of the street i got a friend to pull me and when I got home I charged my battery again and it runs again so I thought ok this has to be the alternator so I removed It and took it to O'Reilly auto parts and got it tested but it passed the test they told me it was good so what it might be ?
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This is on an 01 Mustang with the baby 3.8l and a T5OD tranny. I installed a new clutch and now when the car is on, it won't shift into any gear. But I can start the car in gear and let go of the clutch and it moves forward just fine. I took everything back apart and checked the clutch plate and it is in there correctly. The clutch fork is completely on the little pivot ball.
The throw out bearing is the same size and everything as the old one. I pulled up on the clutch pedal to self adjust. Still not going into gear when the car is on.
I have heard that I might have air in my clutch line. But this clutch is cable actuated, not hydraulic. I have no master cylinder. Like I said before, I already pulled up on the clutch to self adjust and still no luck.
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I have a 2001 mustang GT. I have 2 front calipers that are sticking. I changed both calipers twice, new brake hoses, bled all the wheels and the master cylinder. Why the calipers won't release?
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Need some input on miss firing on acceleration on a 2001 Ford SuperCrew F-150 Lariat, 5.4 engine. 200,290 miles.
Have replaced all spark plug boots covers (Sept 2012), number 1 plug (Sept 2012), 3 and 7 plugs replaced, 3 and 7 has heli-coil kits (2011) installed for blown out plugs. New in-take manifold (2010). New gas line filter, air and oil filters (Oct 2012) and oil changes every 3000 to 3500 miles. Have poured 12 oz. fuel injector cleaner in gas take two times with 6 to 7 gallons of fuel in gas tank (last 2 weeks).
Have No check engine light on for service engine but have had an diagnostic scanner analyzer plugged into driver side, in cab outlet, 4 different times to see if I have a bad coil on plug or other problems. No codes show up indicating any problems. The engine idles nicely when at stop lights but does have a slight intermittent miss at times when warmed up and stopped at lights. Engine misses when warmed up on acceleration (when it is under a load and on acceleration).
Had a mechanic tell me he could plug an analyzer into engine but couldn't guarantee he would find anything wrong. This sounded like a little snow in July to me and the mechanic didn't sound optimistic.
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I changed the seal on the tank filler neck, now I run out of gas at 1/4 tank. How to "reset" the gauge?
2001 3.8 V-6 5-speed
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I've got an issue on my Escape, and I'm at a dead end. '01 XLT V6 150K miles.
About a week ago, driving to work, it started stuttering or misfiring while accelerating up inclines. Cruising and idle were smooth with no issues. I found that if I let off the gas as it was stuttering, it would stop, and then I'd give it gas again, and it would be fine. It was pretty intermittent.
Opened the hood and the large vacuum hose that goes from the top of the intake down to the PCV, has an L boot that connects it to the intake. That boot was collapsed down on itself while the motor was running. It went back to normal when I shut it down. I felt the boot and it was very thin and worn out, so I replace the whole two piece hose, along with the PCV valve. The old PCV came out and was rattling, so I believe it was ok, but I installed a new one anyway.
Drove it after that and it still had the stutter. It was now also doing it just barely at idle. I'd hear the motor miss, and it would really start when I would give it gas. I thought it was still a vacuum issue, and that there were probably other bad hoses. I found two. There's a small hard plastic line that comes off the air intake hose from a T, and those lines go to the camshaft covers. The hard lines go to rubber boots on the cover, and the one in the back was in two pieces. Replaced it. No change.
The other line is a small rubber line that comes off a round component, (I still haven't found out exactly what this part is called), that is bolted to the drivers side shock mount, and has a couple soft lines coming off of it. One of the lines goes over the top of the motor and ties into a T right where that large PCV hose goes into the intake. The part is circled in red, and the arrows point to the hose in the attached pic.
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Started my car up the other day after sitting overnight at temps around or below 0. Started as I would expect in the cold and I walked away to let it warm up. After about 10 minutes I went back to find the car misfiring very consistently, sounded and felt like one whole cylinder was dead. When I attempted to rev the engine it would not rise above 2k RPM and continued misfiring. I shut the engine off and restarted, this fixed the misfiring however the EPC light and Traction Control light remained. The tire pressure light was also on but this is to be expected due to temps. Also there was an "!" instead of my odometer reading, I am guessing this is because I had previously been using cruise control when I turned the car off the night before. Anyways, after a quick drive all lights went away including low tire pressure but seen issues like this from cold weather??
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2006 4.6l / Stalls at stop signs, red lights, and slow turns. My truck has been doing this for 3 years. Throws a code for crank position sensor, also will say unexpected low idle which would explain why so many of us have low oil pressure while this is happening. So after years of worrying and reading these forums and stalling at stop signs I take to the shop. And it was the throttle body needed cleaned. No more problems. Runs like a new one. I have used Lucas fuel treatment for years in this truck. Im a big fan of their products. When this problem began I was adding Lucas with every tank of fuel.
I buy it by the gallon jug. I used some Lucas from this same jug on the wifeys Denali and her truck stalled out once or twice. She wouldn't ever let me add any to her gas again lol, I argued with her that it wasn't because of the Lucas additive. Never the less it never stalled again. Maybe I got a bad batch, maybe I used too much, or maybe it had nothing to do with the additive. But I thought it needed to be mentioned since it is supposed to be a cleaner, and since I carried it in my tool box and added it to almost every tank of fuel. I was adding about 7 ounces per tank. Who knows? But the problem with this truck is that the throttle body did need cleaned.
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Going up a hill this LS started shuddering and misfiring and set the po302 code. A small push on the accelerator sometimes seems to temporarily remedy the issue. This started about a week ago. fuel mileage : 26 mpg highway
Here's the readings I got at idle:
Fuel pressure is KOEO - 0 (That's what it read.); KOER - 30.
MAF - about 70
LT FUEL TRIM 1 - 5.5
ST FUEL TRIM 1 - STAYS NEGATIVE
LT FUEL TRIM 2 - STAYS NEGATIVE
ST FUEL TRIM 2 - STAYS NEGATIVE
ST FUEL TRIM 11 - STAYS NEGATIVE
ST FUEL TRIM 21 - STAYS NEGATIVE
O2 1 - NORMAL FLUCTUATES PROPERLY
O2 S12 - STAYS ABOVE .500
O2 S21 - NORMAL FLUCTUATES PROPERLY
O2 S22 - STAYS ABOVE .500
Not familiar with this vehicle...
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