Ford :: 1993 - Gears Feel Crunchy
Sep 16, 2015
Car, 1993 Ford Festiva, 199,800 miles, original clutch, 5 speed manual transmission. Had the shifter cable replaced about 2 years ago, so that's not it. For almost the past year or so, there's been a lot of freeplay in the clutch pedal, like you have to press about halfway to the floor before you start separating the clutch, but no slipping of clutch. Mechanic said usually when clutch is slipping it will grab near the top. Its been, like, for the past few months I really have to make sure I've got the clutch pedal pressed ALL THE WAY to the floor to shift the gears. Like it grabs way down at the very bottom. And it seems the gears don't shift smooth like they used to, like the shifts are getting "crunchy" for lack of a better word, this is hard to describe in a post.
So anyway, sitting at a light, light turns green, felt a 'POP' as I pushed the clutch pedal close to the floor. So now the pedal pushes down very loosely until about the last 2 inches or so, and at any rate, almost impossible to shift gears. I can kinda jam the gears if the vehicle is moving, but taking off from a stop is darned near impossible, I can kinda jam it into second gear and rev the engine to get going. (And I only did that in order to get home) Actually I was about 80 miles from home when this happened, fortunately I was near a major interstate, only had to contend with 7 traffic lights and managed to hit 3 of them green. Rolling along in gear (any gear) seems fine, almost impossible to shift.
Car now sitting on front lawn, tried (with motor off) shifting the gears, with or without clutch pedal depressed. Gears feel 'crunchy', i.e. doesn't shift smoothly doesn't want to go into a gear. I was thinking along the lines of maybe a clutch spring or a synchronizer broke when I heard the 'pop'.
And this is off--topic, but to top it all off, I get in my other vehicle to go to the store, and within half a mile the "check engine" light comes on, but that's another topic, you can tell I had one heck of a day, someday I'm gonna buy me a new or newish car I'm getting sick and tired of patching up my rolling junkpiles, but for a variety of reasons which would be off-topic and thus verboten.
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I've had my R32 for a week now and I'm starting to develop some questions. This is one that I haven't been able to find an answer to by searching, so here it goes. When the ABS is active (coming to a hard stop on snow and ice, for example), I get a really strange almost "crunchy" feel through the brake pedal. ABS I've experienced on other cars hasn't been this harsh so I'm not sure if it's normal on these.
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When I used to change gears in my car it would feel smooth and precise, but just today when i was shifting in to 2nd, my gears started to feel clunky and like they were getting caught up on something. It feels like I'm not even engaging a gear when i put it into gear. Its so effortless and i don't get that secure feeling that i know i am in gear anymore.
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This is the second time I notice a problem with my 2014 elantra base model. The car only has 13000kms and today the car acted with a weird behaviour. This car has a manual 6 speed transmission.
Out of the blue the car jerked like it had a problem with the transmission switching gears which is weird as this is a manual.
The second time this happened the wife was driving and she said that she was in is third gear and she pressed the clutch and the brake at the same time and she felt a small jerking feel in the clutch like it didn't engage.
The problem is that I cant reproduce the problem. The car is still under warranty and I don't want to go to the dealer with a problem that I cant exhibit.
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I've just about had it with this car:
- Car always had a "mushy" clutch feel. Not proper pushback against your foot feel.
- brought in several times under warranty, all was fine (documented by several dealers) from Jun- November 2015.
- Clutch then goes out at 52k, slipping in high gears. Dealer noted the pressure plate was blackened/burnt. June 2016
- I replace clutch at dealer, $1700 later. Pressure plate, slave cylinder, clutch disc, resurfaced flywheel. Pedal feel is awesome for about a month. Pedal "mush" comes back 1000 miles later. July 2016
- Take it in under the 12k warranty again, and they replace clutch master cylinder. It's about 60% better, but pedal will lose pressure occasionally and at higher altitudes (over 4000 feet) July 2016
What else haven't I replaced? And would a failed clutch master cylinder cause premature clutch wear if not replaced for months?
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I just bought a 1993 Plymouth Voyager recently and the transmission is making a sort of howling sound in low and second gears. It seems to be shifting fine and the sound stops once you get going but I am concerned because the sound is slowly increasing. The fluid looks real old but is stillfairly red. A little bit darker than what it should be with a little bit of brown, but not super bad. I am wondering if maybe someone put in the wrong kind of fluid or maybe the filter is old or clogged, is the pumps system wearing out or bad bearings or what. I know that I need to change the fluid and clean or replace the filter but am I probably looking at something significantly hard to fix or expensive. I can get a free diagnosis at a shop, but I am looking to try and get this fixed myself if possible as I am fairly mechanically inclined and have lots of free time. I am just wondering if changing the fluid and filter will make much of a difference in the life of this transmission. So what is making this sound and is it something not too complicated that can be fixed without a major effort. Is there something fairly easy and cheap to do besides the fluid or do I just drive it.
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I have a 4l60e transmission that was rebuilt less than 500 miles ago, I was driving on the highway when all gears were lost. There is clicking in the front part of transmission. Can I just replace pump? Fluid is clean no pieces in pan, are cluthes still good?
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My GTI is about a month old and I just recently started to notice a slight crunchy sound if I accelerate from 1st gear really slow (right around 1k rpm, maybe a little higher). You have to be going pretty slow and it goes away the second it goes to 2nd gear. It's almost like a creaking wooden floor but more metallic sounding, or driving over a soda can... It's really hard to describe.
I noticed this about week 2, but it seems to have gotten a little louder since then, or maybe i'm just going crazy... I have my first complimentary check up tomorrow morning. They are also going to be installing the waste-gate clip for the rattle noise, which I also noticed after the first week or so.
I will post on the results when I bring it up to the dealer tomorrow. In the meantime. I've looked around and one forum seemed to have a similar sound described, and said it was also the wastegate rattle, just not in the typical 2k-3k rpm range... I'm just hoping it's not a finicky dsg/mechatronic issue with the clutch not disengaging correctly.
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So this morning I go out to my GTI to start up and release the E-Brake and the lever barely goes down and feels Squishy/Crunchy like your smashing a plastic water bottle. It rained last night and it was a bit cold (by So Cal standards, around 50 F, I know, we're all little schoolgirls in So Cal about the weather.)
So I raise and release the E-brake lever several more times and it gets a little better but not really. I manually push the lever down all the way to make sure the Brake light is not on and then drive to work. When I get to work and pull on the E-brake, it is fine. I raise and lower the lever a few more times and no sticky.
Of course, where I park the GTI faces a row of glass windows and I realize every time I raised and lowered the E-Brake this morning the HID DRL's were turned on and off several times, probably killing my HID's ....
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Then, when I try to reengage the clutch so that I can restart the engine, the clutch is very stiff, and I have to pump it a few times, at which time it will depress easily, and then I am usually back to the original problem where the peddle comes up but the clutch does not engage. When I finally make it home and the truck sits for awhile, the clutch then works fine again. I think it is the orig clutch. I have talked to several mechanics about this problem (including the Ford garage!), and they are mystified. One mechanic thinks that it is a problem with the master and slave cylinder combo, and can replace them.
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2002 ranger edge 3.0 5spd. Truck idles perfect, but when you get rolling and higher rpms feels like the engine is missing. loos of power and shakes. I replaced the usual, plugs and wire's, seemed to work for a bit but came back. I cannot get any info on the scanner and have checked all the fuses. I am thinking coil pack but don't understand why it idles perfect and only misses under acceleration. No check engine light on.
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My 2014 F-350 SRW always seemed to have spongy feeling brakes since day one and the e-brake has never been set-up to be very tight. Even though my truck has less than 25,000 miles on it, I'm half tempted to power bleed brakes to try to get a better brake pedal. All I know is that if I press the brake pedal on my '82 F-350 SRW as hard as I need to press the one my 2014 SD, it would try to put me through the windshield.
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My 1997 F250 Heavy duty shifts very hard and sometimes feel like it slips out of gear (i press the gas pedal to the floor and speedometer rises very slow and truck doesn't move like it should.
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I've got an oddball '88 SWB with the M5OD transmission. Since I've had it (about a year now), its always required a lot of gas to get it rolling without it stalling after sitting overnight or during the day at work, especially putting it in reverse for the first time. The shifts have always been a little choppy/jerky/grabby/whatever you want to call it, too. Mostly going into first from a stop, but you can feel it other gears too, especially if you're not flooring it.
Anyway, it seems to have gotten worse and I'm getting to the point where I'm looking at a cause. One thought I had was oil contamination on the clutch discs, I know this will make a clutch feel "grabby". There is some sludge accumulation between the trans and engine, and it appears I may have a very slow leak there.
I have to change the trans fluid this weekend and am wondering if there's anything I should inspect while I'm at it -- I don't know a whole lot about the clutch system on this van and there's next to no information on it. Frankly, I don't even know if its hydraulic or cable.
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