Ford :: 1993 - Battery Won't Hold Charge - High Pitched Noise When Accelerating
May 23, 2011
There a couple of things wrong with this particular vehicle. first, that battery will not hold its charge; it also has a high pitched noise when started and only when accelerating. Where to start?
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My 98' Taurus will not hold a charge. I have replace the battery 3, The alternator was replaced 4 times, and the 175 amp mega fuse was replaced once.I am at wits end cause I don't have a clue what is causing the the battery to discharge over night in the winter and with in 3 days in the sommer. I have rewired the main fuse box under the hood cause the relay to the starter melted the box, I replaced cables to the battery, the alternator, the starter, and the ground to the battery, and the main fuse box under the hood. I have tested the battery to see if it will hold a charge on its own. This test took 3 weeks before it drained. I know it is not the battery. What is going on with this car, Did I miss something?
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I can charge it off someone else battery and it will start and drive, but by the next morning it's dead again. Truck charges fine while truck runs so I don't think it's the alternator. 1999 4.2L V6 ....
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My battery on my Celica wouldn't hold a charge, as if my alternator was faulty but i took it to Azone and it was fine. Replaced battery around a month ago so i doubt that's the problem..checked fuses and "charging" fuse in fuse box next to battery was not getting current to i ran direct current to from battery it and it seem to have fixed the problem for about a DAY, then fuse blew..replaced it but it still seems to have the same problem ): btw the battery and brake lights stay on..
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My sister owns a 2004 Kia Amanti. The battery will not hold a charge. The battery has been replaced several times. the alternator and regular and anything else that could drain the battery has been checked. All ground posts have been cleaned. At first the battery would go dead every 3 to 5 days but now you have to start the car every day or it will die. They say there is a 7ohm drain on the battery that can't be located. The latest suggestion is to replace the wiring in the driver's side door. What would be causing this?
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I have a 2008 Santa Fe LTD, and just recently started experiencing a strange noise when I am accelerating, and I cannot pinpoint it. Here is some info on the noise.
-2008 Santa Fe LTD AWD, about 25,000 miles
-Sounds like a little higher pitched hum, not very loud
-Seems to be coming from somewhere near the passenger side backseat area (first found out about it when someone was sitting there and asked what the noise was)
-Cannot tell whether it is coming from the interior or exterior of the car, but I think exterior, but it is definitely somewhere along the passenger side, from the back half of the car.
-Noise occurs when accelerating from a stopped position, only when accelerating, never when braking or idle.
-Noise occurs only when car is in gear (hitting the gas pedal in park does not cause the noise to happen)
-Noise doesn't occur at high speeds or when accelerating at high speeds
-Noise only really occurs for a 2-3 seconds while accelerating, then seems to go away as I continue to drive.
-Noise doesn't seem to always happen, but very frequently.
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About 4 months I accidentally reversed the polarity when jumping my car and fried my 12V battery and blew the fusible link. I replaced it with an Optima yellow top but due to other issues I haven't driven the car since about that time.
Last week I got most of the other issues resolved and tried starting the car, nothing. It was reading less than a volt on the voltmeter. I used my portable jump starter and got the car started. I only drove it to the gas station (1 mile round trip) to fill my tires and back. I went to start it the next day and nothing again. I thought maybe I didn't charge the battery enough since I hadn't been driving it.
I charged it overnight using a wall charger and again the next day it wouldn't start. Yesterday I jumped it again and drove it about 20 minutes, about half at low speeds (<30 MPH) and half at higher speeds. I got home put the car in park, but still on, and checked the voltage again, about 13.8 V. Turned the car off and checked again and I could see the voltage dropping like a rock. Within about 30 seconds it was down to 6V and within another 30 seconds it was so low that I didn't have any interior lights or dash lights.
It seems to me like the battery is bad. However after I "fried" the original battery I had similar issues. In fact the reason I had to jump it in the first place is because the battery died a few times in the same day. Could something be killing the battery?
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I've noticed that after sitting over night my battery for the hybrid system is not charged enough to operate the car in EV or for the first mile or two it does not seem to use as much electric power to supplement the car. After a couple miles it is charged or near charged and I see more use.
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I am pretty sure that my Denso alternator is shot. My 2010 Corolla S will not start, battery won't hold a charge either. I pop started my vehicle around 10:30am today and drove 30 minute north on the 101. My car appeared to have no issue maintaining power. I rode my bicycle around for about an hour and then tried to start my car. Nothing. Tried to pop start the vehicle twice...still nothing.
The battery has about 40k on it. Car has 121k. So I am guessing it is my alternator.
Like I said the current alternator is made by Denso. I would like to buy a higher quality alternator with maybe a little more cranking amps.
I also am planning on purchasing a Optima battery, should I stick with a yellow top or a redtop. I have some aftermarket audio, only amp is in the Pioneer head-unit (avh p440bt), which is connected to aftermarket 6x9s and components (JL Audio c2-690tx and JL Audio C5-650).
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I bought my RC F new about a month ago and have put a very fun 1450 miles on it. Ever since I got it, there is this weird noise happening right at about 2.8k - 3k rpms. It doesn't seem to happen when I'm hammering on it as much as when I just accelerate on the road to get around somebody and peak at those rpms.
Not quite sure how to explain the noise, it's kind of a high pitched gurgling. Is this normal?
I tried recording it but you can't hear it through the video at all. If you turn the volume up and put your ear right next to the speaker you *might* be able to hear it. It's much more apparent in real life.
[URL] .....
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I bought a CPO 2010 Camry LE (2.5 4 cyl, 6 sp auto) a few months ago. The car had around 34K miles when I got it, and ever since then, it has had a high pitched whining noise when accelerating or revving the engine in park. It is noticeable from around 2500RPM up, and seems to be a little louder when the engine is cold.
I have left it at the dealer twice, and both times they have come back and said it is normal. I can't believe this, because I have owned many cars over the years, most of them being fairly dilapidated, yet most of them haven't had a noise like this. I think I have read a comment online somewhere that an issue like this was found due to a bad power steering pump .
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Yesterday as soon as I started my car, I noticed a high pitched whining noise. As I drove, it seemed to stop, but as I slowed down and idled, it came back. After driving a couple miles, the battery light came on, so I turned off the AC, radio, and lights and it went off again, but as I sat at stop lights it would flicker on and off again.
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I just wrapped up a full day's worth of tear down/reassembly chasing an oil leak at the turbo pedestal. while I had the turbo out I replaced the pedestal with a non-ebpv pedestal and replaced the outlet with a high flow outlet. I also removed the stock exhaust and replaced it with a 4" Turbo Back from MRPB. Once I got everything put back together I hit the highway to check out the new exhaust.
To my horror I started to hear a high pitched airhorn-like sound while accelerating. It sounds a lot like an old police siren... I'm wondering if this sounds like a turbo or simply a boost leak. I obviously had everything taken apart so a boost leak seems likely (still original boots with 191,000 miles). I've ordered new boots from RiffRaff but wanted to make sure it didn't sound like an exploding turbo and that I could safely drive it until I can fix the old boots.
Take a look (listen) at the video : [URL] ....
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My car has 155k miles and I haven't had any previous issues with it. I noticed probably 30k miles ago the beginning of a whine sound when the car accelerates. The noise has been getting louder (it's really not that loud) but I am wondering what this could be. I want to avoid anything happening to the car and want to find out what the problem is so I can fix it.
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I recently took a trip up .and I noticed that driving up long inclines my battery just drained to practically nothing.
When I got to level terrain it'd charge but to not to full level. and for my entire trip it didn't ever really charge much. However once I got down to lower altitudes and drove to my home It charged right up and has retained its charge.
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First I noticed that the parking brake light and battery light came on, which would indicate an alternator problem. I took it in, they cleaned up the engine, replaced a few hoses and said the alternator was fine. Two days later I'm driving home, I make it to my driveway and the battery dies. I was able to charge it up and dive it back to the station where they told me the alternator had burned out...
A few days later I notice my brake lights weren't working, but that was just a blown fuse.
Starting today, there is a high pitched whine when I'm driving. I can barely hear it when I'm idle, but going up to 20 or 30 it gets very loud, then kind of dies off. It definitely gets louder when I'm accelerating, vs going a steady speed. As I was driving earlier, the air bag light came on for a brief second, and I didn't think anything of it, until later tonight when I was driving home and it came on again, but this time it stayed on.
Santa Fe GLS, 135,000 miles
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When starting in morning (even if weather is warm) or after car has sat for several hours, my 1999 Taurus makes a high-pitched whirring noise. Thought it was a loose fan belt, but mechanic said that was wrong. Have taken it to several mechanics and, of course, it doesn't make the noise after I've driven it there. Have to leave it overnight, which is HUGE problem as I don't live near public transportation. Noise occurs several times as I shift into DRIVE and then accelerate. After that, it disappears, then comes back again, if I leave it sit for several hours. One mechanical friend checked the tranny fluid and said it's fine. Also said it is probably not the tranny but didn't know what it could be. I took it to one of your recommended mechanics, but they couldn't find anything and said they didn't even hear the noise, although I did leave it overnight at their garage. (Won't go back there again.)
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So we bought a new to us 04 Escape for the kid, he loves it! My question is, what's going on when I accelerate somewhat aggressively, the tach and speedo peg high and battery light comes on. It does not affect performance and gauges return to normal within a couple seconds.
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This evening, my F150 with 2,600 miles developed a high pitched squeal, much like you might experience on an older vehicle with failing front brakes. Yes, that same squeal/grind the brakes make...metal on metal. It came in instantly while at highway speeds. It was VERY loud. The pitch didn't really change with speed...it was pretty consistant going slow or fast. There was no vibration, chatter or growl as I would expect with a failing bearing.
It was definately in the driveline/brakes. I was 10 miles away from a friends house, so I turned around and took it back to his place. Shortly after turning around, it quieted, only sounding when I would turn ( like a wheel bearing would when being side loaded ). I looked at the brake disks, thinking something was grinding on one of them. The outsides of the disks looked fine. Due to the shields on the inside, I couldn't see.
Later in the evening, I had to drive it back home, about 50 miles. Again, it was quiet unless turning fairly hard. By the time I got home, the squeal had turned into an intermitant growl/thump, as if a warped rotor was banging on the caliper. The noise was 1 to 1 with the rotation of the driveline. But still no vibration. Brakes work perfectly and the noise doesn't change with brake use. Backing up and turning hard results in a variety of sounds, including squeaks.
The hubs and CV joints felt cool. The brake disks were not hot as if they were dragging.
It is 4x4 / 3.7l
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I think my setup may be unique in that I have an XM commander, and Christian at Enfig made a special cable so that I have power connectors to the CD changer and my XM commander unit. Christian did a great job with this.
My dilemma is that there is a high pitched noise coming through the XM when the engine is running. It is not loud, and is not as audible at lower volume, but with my hearing problems, it is louder to me than to others.
The noise is not there when the car is not started. I guess there is no filter running the power to the changer (I am guessing), and now my XM commander box. I would not even know what to do regarding a filter or where it should go. The CD still plays clear with no noise. I have not connected an IPOD yet to the X3, but since the power to the CD and the XM commander is coming from the car battery, I figured that was the culprit.
Also, if I did not need the additional audio inputs, the XM roady I had in my center console via FM transmitter had more volume and more bass than my XM commander via X3. The XM roady did not sound good at all via the X3, and the XM commander was clearly better via X3 interface.
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I noticed my truck makes a high pitched whining noise. It does it at idle and while acceleration up to 40 mph or so. The pitch of the wine increases with RPM'S. It is not the cold start whine issue I have researched on YouTube.
It is in the cold or warmth. No difference. It's always there. My 2012 6.2 did not sound like this at all. I have crawled under the truck and it appears like it is coming from the transmission.
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