Ford :: 1987 - Truck Starts To Skip And Break Down Unless Fuel Pump In Tank?
Aug 14, 2014
I have a 1987 ford 350 when i go up a steep hill the truck starts to skip and break down to a point where I have to pull over i just put in new fuel pump in tank, what could be the problem only happens on hills.
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I just bought a 2006 F150 with the 5.4 triton motor. Under acceleration at around 40-45, the vehicle starts to skip and shudder.
Based on what I read online and the fact that I pulled a code for a #1 cyl misfire, I assumed that i just need to change the plugs, and I am trying to scheduule that now.
I just read another post about the TC not locking up due to needing the filter and fluid changed and a way to fix that would be to take OD off and see if it still does it.
When I drive with the od off, it does not do it but i am now confused since i got the one code for a misfire.
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Why the frame mounted fuel pump might run after the key is turned off? Then when you turn the key on it may or not run. If it does run it keeps running. shouldn't this shut off after pressurizing the line? is their a pressure switch in the pump that's failing? This has the 3 pump system...
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I have an 87 F150 4x4 4.9L EFI with a single tank. Fuel pumps keep running even when the key is off. I tried swapping relays but the problem still exists. The engine will start and run OK for about 15 secs. then die. I installed a new low pressure pump, high pressure pump seems to be OK. I also installed new fuel filters. I dont want to just throw parts at this truck, where do I go from here?
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How/why does fuel transfer from front tank to rear tank ? I put 6 gallons in front, drove about 5 miles, parked over night, all fuel now in rear tank which was empty.
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1987 f150 302 4spd 4x4. When I bought the truck 4 years and 12K miles ago the orig owner had just installed a new front pump (in tank) and new switch thing on the frame rail. He said shortly after that the rear pump stopped working so he just ran off of the front tank. That's what I've been doing also except as of the last few months it has started to leak from the rear tank (I don't ever put gas in it and was empty when I bought it) and dies periodically from time to time? Where the leak could be coming from. I do suspect the dying has to do with the leak though.
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I have a 1987 jeep cherokee with inline 6 and multi port injection.
Sometimes this vehicle only starts when hot
Some times only when it cold
I have recently fixed the fuel leak.
When its hot or cold and not starting if i relieve the fuel pressure at the fuel rail, in most cases it will start immediately. However if fuel pressure relief does not work. I disconnect the vacuum line at the what looks to be the EGR valve or the pressure regulator at the front end of the rail, then usually starts right away.
I have not tested at this time to see if the fuel pump is failing nor have i tested fuel pressure. I am trying to narrow down the problem to one specific part. There is no problems with cranking. There is spark - coil, plug, dist cap have been replaced.
It seems the problem is with fuel delivery of sorts. It was mentioned that sometimes the heat from the engine could be heating the fuel rail to a point which turns the fuel into a gas not allowing it to atomize.
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1987, 2.9 ... I got all my wiring repaired and replaced both the intank pump and the high pressure pump, for a few days it would fire right up as soon as you hit the key but it had a miss (the pumps shut off after a second or two with the key on "RUN"). I tore the throttle body off and cleaned all the carbon out of it, when I put the throttle body back on I noticed that the engine to body ground was loose so I ran a new piece of 4ga from the intake manifold bolt to one of the master cylinder bolts.
After I did this I went to start the truck and no go, the fuel pump turns on with the key but then it wont shut back off until you turn the key off. if you try and start the truck it will crank but wont fire, after about a half hour of cycling the key and cranking it will start to put a little bit then a few tries later it will start but sounds rough when it first fires. I thought it may be a stuck injector so I ran some cleaner through the Schrader valve on the rail. Still have nothing, both pumps do run but still don't shut off after a few seconds like they should and now it wont even try to start.
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This van has had a couple of fuel pumps, no surprise there, and i need to look through my paperwork and find out how many miles the current one has on it, but it has the STRANGEST habit I've ever had on any vehicle. Starts fine, runs fine, no fuel pump noise when van is running, and when you turn it off, the fuel pump creeks on and off for several minutes.
I mean a strange creaking noise almost like a shorted electrical device or a vehicle's brakes when you park it on a hill and the breaks creak as it settles into place. I'm probably doing a lousy job of describing this but i don't know how else to describe it!
ALSO, if you lay under the van and wait til it stops creaking, you can tap the bottom of the tank and it will creak for a few more seconds. You can tap repeatedly and make it creak more. Is it about to explode? Can i trust it on a road trip?
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I just purchased an 87 f250 w/ a carb'd 460. I purchased it with the mech fuel pump swapped out to an electric. The previous owner states that they gave him the wrong electric pump and I should exchange it for a different one. The reason for him putting it on was to get it running for me to hear it run.
My question: Is this even recommended? I wouldn't mind staying with an electric pump up front. If it is recommended, what would be a suitable pump to replace it with, as in flow/feeding characteristics?
Also, it only feeds from the rear tank, which also has a bad fuel pump. I'd like to get both tanks functioning again. I'd rather not deal with the tank switching valve due to what I've read about them. Has anyone ever hooked up a manual valve and just switched tanks that way? I've searched this site extensively and couldn't find anything. I know I'm not the first to have thought about it.
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2009 f150 5.4. Replacing water pump and I can't get the fan to break loose. I've broken 2 belt wrenches. I've just sprayed liquid wrench on it .
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On a recent long drive home through some very hot weather, I noticed a strong smell of gas at the back of the truck. Now, I've caught a whiff of gas before the trip but it was always faint. Figured it was some gas that dripped on fill up.
At a rest area, I go and look around see no leaks and finally check the fuel cap. Lots of pressure trapped. I ended up leaving the cap off the rest of the run home. Can't find a cause.
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This has happened to me 4 times now in the 7 years I've owned my car. It happened so infrequently I thought the problem was the pump's sensor was not working properly. However now it's happened twice the last two times I've tried to fill up. On Friday my son was supposed to fill the car and could only get 1 gallon in and the fuel pump kept clicking off as if the car is full of gas. The bars never moved and I thought the problem was the pump. Then today, Sunday 2 days later, I decided to go ahead and fill it up. I have 250 miles to drive and want a full tank of gas. The tank shows 3 bars. I started fueling and it clicked off at 1 gallon. So I pulled the pump trigger again and tried to force more fuel in and it stopped and wouldn't add anymore than 1.7 gallons.
So now I have a long drive tomorrow and I can't figure out why the pump is clicking off as if the tank is full yet it can't be because I drove 250 miles since my son tried to put gas in and it's showing I have 3 bars.
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I have about 500 miles on my 2008 R32, and today I noticed while sitting in the car with it running that there was a noticeable buzzing coming from the fuel pump. It sounds like it is coming from the pump under the tank itself. Hear this coming through to the cabin? Rather loud, I wonder if this issue has already been reported with other 3.2 VR6 setups.
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I have a 92 f150 w 302 . My front tank leaks out of the gas cap and builds up pressure. Even though I have never put fuel in it (owned it 7 mos). I siphon fuel out of it weekly. If I switch from rear to front. The truck stalls out.
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A friend of mine have a 94' Explorer with the 4.0 v6. Fuel pump starts for 2-3 sec when i turn the key, stops when cranking and starts again when i stop cranking. i checked the fuel shutoff switch and it was ok, and it have spark.
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I just picked up a gen II prius last week. it came with 70k miles and almost a full tank, i think 2 'pips' were gone. since I got my car I've driven a total of 135 miles and already my fuel level went down to 2 pips.
I needed to fill up my tank, so on my way home today I went to a gas station filled up with 87 octane fuel. The fuel pump automatically stopped after about 5 gallons. I had less than a quarter tank, therefore my car should not be full with 5 gallons, according to the manual the tank is just shy of 12 gal. I know my prius has the shrinking bladder or whatever since its a g II, but this is a little extreme. According to my car, I've been getting an average of 35 mpg.
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I just bought a 2014 Prius- Pkg. 2 car. I had an '06 & an '08 Prius and kept the tire pressure @ 44 Lb.s for maximum mileage. I always fill my tank to the top well after the pump clicks off.
1) The dlr. told me I will only get an accurate MPG by not filling the tank after the pump clicks off. He claims the computer doesn't read the extra 1-2 gallons and that is causing me to get about 35 MPG even though the trip meter says 50 MPG.
2) The dlr. told me not to run my tires @ 44 lbs. Said it is a safety issue. I've been doing 44 lbs. since 2006 with great mileage and no safety issues.
Am I wrong for filling my tank to the top? My Prius has just over 600 miles today.
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I have a Kia Optima, 2007. I've had the car since 2009 and about a year after having it, started having trouble filling the gas tank. I do NOT top off. However, if I allow the tank to fill until the pump shuts off, more often than not, gas comes overflowing back out of the car. Not only is it an environmental concern, but it's also a waste of money because I've now paid for the gas that's pooling on the ground. The amount that comes out varies, but is typically at least a few cups worth. This has happened to my husband as well when he has filled my tank. Neither of us top off. I've brought it to the dealership multiple times and they can find nothing wrong. Someone suggested it was more an issue with the gas pumps not shutting off when they're supposed to, but this happens at varies stations. Plus, no one else I know has this issue, so I can't imagine how this is a gas station issue. The car was rear-ended 6 months after I got the car and the side with the gas tank was pushed into another car, but the damage was minimal (the point of impact was the opposite side). Again, we do NOT top off.
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I have the gas 5.4l in my 01 F250 Super Duty. I had to change out the leaking Heater hose before I could attack this other issue. The truck starts when it feels like it. I changed the fuel filter and it started fine. Then the next day it wouldn't. Later it would. However each time it does start it dies when throttled up. I am down to thinking it is the fuel pump. My question is, because changing the pump sucks about as bad as changing the heater hose. Can I install an inline fuel pump and deal with the sump pump in the tank later? Are there any Cons to doing this?
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2000 Mustang was running fine. It hasn't been driven in a couple of days, and now wont start. No noise in the tank, fuel pump not working. But when you spray gas into the throttle body it wont even try to hit. Fuses under the hood beside the battery are all good. Inerta switch is down and in place. Am I missing something? maybe a relay? I would just think no matter what, getting fuel into the opening of the throttle would cause the car to at least cough.
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