Ford :: 1982 - Engine Tries To Crank With No Key In The Ignition
Mar 22, 2014
My 1982 Ford Granada cranked slowly and failed to start. Before getting a new battery (it's already 6 years old), I cleaned the battery terminals and cable clamps from corrosion and re-connected them. The car started with no problem. The second time I turned the key, the car cranked slowly and again it failed to start. This time, I noticed the battery was being drained with the ignition off (the voltage was way too low). I frantically removed the negative battery terminal to prevent a fire and drained battery. When I re-connected the battery terminal, the engine tries to crank with no key in the ignition. Is there a relay or solenoid that froze in a closed position? Or, could it be a faulty ignition switch?
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I have a 1982 Ford Granada with a 3.8L V6 engine. It has an old-fashioned distributor with a cap, rotor and vacuum advance mechanism. I can’t seem to find any provision for loosening and rotating the distributor in order to adjust the ignition timing. Nor can I find a timing scale alongside the crankshaft pulley. Can the ignition timing be manually adjusted in this engine? Or, is it computer-controlled like the modern vehicles?
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Ok. 2007 Elantra SE about 73k miles
Woke up yesterday car wouldn't start. Engine would try and crank but no ignition. Came home for lunch tried it again, no luck. Let it crank 2 or 3 times about 30 sec. each no luck. Then all of a sudden it started right up. Shut it off and started right up again. Did this 5 or 6 times, it started right up each time.
After work I came home, tried to start it. No luck. Pumped the gas a couple of times let it crank for a while. Nothing. Then after a couple of tries, it started. Went to Autozone had the battery and charging system checked, all good. Put some gas in it and came home. All this time it started right up each time.
Later that night about 4 hours later I went to try it and no go. After about 5 minutes of repeatedly trying it came on eventually.
This morning I went out, pumped the gas twice and it started right up. Shut it off and started again about 5 times in a row. It seemed to run a little rough. Just slight shake that seems like miss or something.
What could be the problem. No check engine light. Fuel system, ignition system, some sensor??
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Pulling into work this morning I noticed my check engine light was flashing. The car (1997 Buick LeSabre, aka The Rolling Couch) was still running and everything seemed normal. I turned off the car and then went back out 3 hours later and tried to start it. It would not start, and the symptom is not one I've had any luck Googling. When I turn the key, it makes a sound, but it's not a click. It's the normal sound when ignition starts, but the engine does not crank at all or turn over. It just makes a single ignition sound and then nothing. Could this be a belt? The starter? I have not taken it anywhere or pulled the error code yet.
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The truck seems to continue to crank sometimes even after I let the key go. Kinda like it's having a difficult time starting and NEEDS to be cranked a wee bit more and takes over for me. Is this an ignition issue that I can (need) to address or is it normal. I have ZERO experience with a newer vehicle nor a Ford truck.
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Recently I've noticed that when I take my car up to highway speeds- 55 MPH or higher- the engine feels as though it hesitates- I don't actually slow down, but I have trouble accelerating beyond where it starts to lag. It's like an imaginary bump my car is going over where the engine isn't fully accelerating. Happens for a second, then goes away, but lately it's happening often- several times in a row- it just feels laggy, sometimes continuously, and i've got a bad feeling about it.Tires and brakes are completely new (Nov 2011, calipers, rotors, and pads replaced), oil level is checked weekly and has been fine lately. ~200k miles. It's a manual/ 4spd, I don't know if this is clutch/ transmission slippage, or if I have a piston misfiring, OR if maybe it's a fuel injection problem,,,,
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2003 6.0 auto KR. Ign turns on, dash comes on like normal, windows & lights all work, vacumm pump works.. Thats it. Starter turns well if I hotwire it. Other then that she's dead. No buzz on inj when ign is on. OBD port has the power on blue/white wire but rest have none. Scanner says can't connect. Fuel pump doesn't run. Starter doesn't crank. All fuses have been checked.
Checked with test light on all the engine related fuses and they all light up. Relays have all been switched around. Tried another used PCM to test. Unplugged fan, ebp, map, maf. My brain is going on overload trying to get all these electrical issues fixed. I much prefer a HPO leak or inj going bad, that I know how to tackle. I hate electrical.
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I've got a 1982 automatic chevy 454 engine with only 46,000 miles on it (in my Winnebago RV). It runs just fine except each time I step on the gas pedal from a stopped position for an instant it sounds like the engine is about to die and then it starts going. Is this a major engine problem or something that requires minor adjustments? I want to sell the RV. If it's going to cost a lot to fix, I'd rather lower the price of the rig.
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well for a few days the car woudln't start every 10 times or so , i'd turn it back and forth a few times and it would kick over , then tonight wife took it and it just wouldn't start so i went and picked her up and tried it about a 100 times and called a tow truck
so what does everyone think it is, everything else is normal but the no crank. ignition switch maybe? I'm going to try and pop the clutch after it gets here, i didn't have the room or distance to try it where it was
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OK, here's the update so far.
- new battery
- all fuses fine in panel, all fuses fine on battery pack.
- am getting power to trigger switch upon engine crank (tested w lamp and volt meter).
- did the 'mechanics tap' on the starter motor body
Still no crank when key is turned, instrument panel/gauges light up as normal
So am I right in thinking that I've narrowed the problems down to:
1) bad solenoid
2) bad starter
3) bad connection between battery and starter
or have I missed something?
Also, is there a way to directly test the starter (or indirectly test the solenoid) by applying power to the starter?
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Had been having problems with ignition on my 1995 Jeep Cherokee Sport. Key was loose and eventually wouldn't stay in "on" position without being jerry-rigged (don't ask). Replaced the Ignition Control Switch and the Key cylinder today and car won't start. Checked fuses and they look fine.
Used this video as a guide and it installed perfectly. [URL] ......
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My 1999 Saturn SL1 was running well. One evening, I started it up to go home, and it wasn't running well, and barely had power to make it the half mile home. It still starts up, but seems to miss in park and in gear. We tried spark plugs, wires, coils, catalytic converter, cylinder pressure, crankshaft position sensor, and fuel filter with no change in engine behavior. I think the EGR valve was looked at and passed. I hope it is not the fuel injectors as I put a cleaner in the fuel every so often. Could it be the Ignition Control Module, and is there a way to test the existing module? What else could it be, and how could I test it?
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Starting one time in January, the SUV would have all ACC power but failed in every attempt to crank or turn. Nothing happened whatsoever when the key turned. No dim in the lights, the battery was fine. After about 30 minutes it started right up.
The issue started again this week, occurring twice. Both times while the vehicle had been sitting for more than 4 hours. I'm unsure what the issue is. I took it to Autozone to have them try and diagnose it to no avail.
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When I was a mechanic in the 1980's it was easy to disable a car's ignition to do starter crank or compression tests, just pull the distributor lead wire in the center of the dist. cap.
I have a 2000 vintage 4.6 engine and was wondering the easy way to knock out the ignition to do crank tests, etc. This engine has all the modules resting independently on each spark plug, so no central distributor cap to get to. Is there an easy way, and does it work for Chrysler and GM cars too?
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I've got a 1982 Courier 2.0 2wd 5speed pickup and it's been passed down through my family and has sat for quite a while so I started tinkering with it in my spare time.
I began with the motor and got it to run after 15 years of sitting around but am having issues with the transmission. When I first got it running a while back i had it in gear and when I let out on the clutch it lunged forward a little and stalled. I have since then towed it a short distance across my yard (in neutral of course), but now it seems like it isn't doing anything while it's in gear.
While its running I can put it in gear (even without the clutch) it doesn't grind jump or anything. Everything feels like it's okay as in going into all the gears. I was wondering if this is possibly clutch related or if it's the trans itself. Or maybe some electrical thing related. I haven't taken anything apart yet in hopes that it's something simple. I was curious if it might be low on fluid and maybe that would cause it not to engage properly?
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My 82 f150 4x4 302 c6 trans is acting up. My c6 is slow to shift into any gear when I shift the column shifter, after a moment it jerks into gear, also it doesn't seem D is doing anything but all the other gears seems to function manually or auto.
Fluid level looks ok, maybe a little high on the dipstick. I'm going to check the modulator and do a fluid/filter change but looking for a link to the band adjustment screw ?
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I've got serious shake going on in the right front. I ordered new wheel bearings but can't figure out how to replace them. Been working on tractors, trucks, boats my whole life and this is embarrassing. '82 F150 straight 6, 4wd, standard trans.
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Well I have a 2150 carb on my '82 truck, I looked in my parts and illustration guide and found what should be a fairly close overhaul kit for my truck based off it being a non high altitude truck and it has A/C and its a 302 with C6 transmission 2 wheel drive.
Down side is the power valve that came with my kit is a two stage power valve and I currently have a single stage power valve.
If I were to use this two stage power valve where would I buy a replacement two stage power valve cover?
Ive been looking but cant find any anywhere and I am to the point of figuring out what power valve my truck has currently so I don't have to put my only vehicle down for multiple days for a simple carb rebuild.
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Father-in-law purchased 1982 Fiat Spider. The car won't go into 4th gear, scrapes when you let the clutch out. It scrapes a little when you put it in 2nd gear. 1st, 3rd, and Reverse no problem. Changed Syncronisers, no change, put in transmission from doner car, same problem.
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I have a 1982 short-box chevy pick-up with a diesel 8 cylinder 6.2L that will start and run for a few seconds and then shuts down. It may restart and do the same thing. It will not keep running after an initial few seconds.
I have a mechanic that operates an automotive repair business in our hamlet and he took it on although not an expert on diesels. He works on it when he gets time and talking to him today he feels it must be an electrical problem shutting things down as fuel is getting from the fuel pump to the injection pump.
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How to install alternator in 82 Jeep CJ7 with serpentine belt?
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