Focus :: Headlights Work Only With Ignition In Run Position
Dec 13, 2014
I have a 2006 Focus ZX4 with 158k miles. A couple of days ago, I turned on the headlights after starting the engine and had no low beam on the driver's side. Both high beams work. Thinking the filament had gone, I replaced both bulbs with new ones. After several frustrating minutes, I realized the headlights only come on with the ignition switch in the 'run' position. I still have no low beam on the driver's side. I checked the fuse, which appeared to be good, and replaced it anyway.
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05 screw with no electrical or lighting mods. The other morning when I left the house, turned on the lights, all of the marker lights, dash, fog, etc. come on normally but no headlights. Placed switch in auto and all works fine, including lights. Move switch back and forth between auto and manual a few times and lights finally come on in manual. Next few days they worked fine. Now again this weekend it did it again. Everything worked fine in auto but no headlights in manual. Run the lights in the auto position and after about 5 min on the road switched back to manual and lights came on. I'm thinking possibly a bad headlight switch or maybe a relay that's hanging up or has a bad contact. I've searched but most of the problems I see are when the lights don't work in auto not manual.
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My wife recently purchase a 2013 Focus SE 5 door and a few times now the ignition key "sticks" in the switch and will not release. She has to turn it back on and off a couple times to get it to release.
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I have a problem with turning my key. It will not turn at all. I have taken the upper and lower part of the cover off to expose the switch and removed one screw from the ignition housing, but the internal part of the ignition switch will not come out. How do I completely remove this ignition switch. I have already removed the negative battery cable. It seems this is a continual problem with focuses. Oh, do I need a releasing tool to release the ignition switch.
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I have a 2001 Ford Focus, lately on occasion, not all the time when I turn the key nothing happens, the car doesn't start. I then turn the key back and forth a few time and turn the wheel a few times and then it start and runs fine and I may not have this happen again for a few weeks or it may happen the next day.
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I have a 2009 Ford Focus. The ignition key can not enter the steering column cylinders unless the key is jiggled with a far amount of pushing. I took the car to the dealership in the late Fall and they replaced the ignition cylinder. This worked fine until Spring when the outside temperature got above 75 F.
I have tried using the extra key and it also will not be permitted to enter the cylinder except with a great amount of key jiggling. This problem only occurs when it is above 75 F, it is not a problem for 6 months of the year; but, I am concerned that sometime I won't be able to get the car started.
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2005 Ford Focus : About 10 months ago noticed my battery light was faintly visible with car off and key out of ignition. It was faint and erratically pulsing, it also did this when car was running. This issue would last a week or so, then go away for a while...then come back.
Then it spread to include the ABS light too, and eventually became permanent. But six weeks ago, after driving from CA to WI, it went away...for a few weeks, but came back.
A few days ago I went to my car, and it spread to include the checkfuel cap, oil, and door ajar lights. Also a loud beep occurs at erratic intervals. The lights all flash and pulse individually. Most are faint, but the oil light and door ajar light seem full strength. When I turn the key to second position, all the lights light up full strength and solid, like they're supposed to (for the testing phase).
Then once car is on, they go back to flickering faintly...but the loud beep goes away. I'm concerned about the beeping running down the battery with car off-so I pulled out fuse #36, which is for "a/c swith, instrument cluster". This stops the beeping and flickering, cuz the lights no longer have power to them.
The battery voltage is 12.3 volts, and while running it's a steady 14.35 volts.
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So the car was unused and sitting in snow for about 2 months. Now the car will not start, and actually does not make any noise when key is turned. No lights inside the car turn on. No automatic or electronic buttons work at all. Is this a totally dead battery or starter (since it makes no noise with key in ignition) or something else (e.g. electrical)? I tried to jump start the car which did nothing (but honestly not sure if it was done for a good enough amount of time... about 5 minutes).
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2009 Ford Focus. Six months ago got in car returning from 60 mile trip. Turned ignition key heard fuel pump hum but no juice to ignition. (Not anti-theft lockout--security light behaved normally.) Would not take jump. Ford Roadside assistance tried everything else possible. Nothing. Towed to nearest Ford dealer. On arrival, car started immediately. Took to local Ford dealer who found absolutely no problems but ran TSB 10-21-8 reprogram PCM--test OK. Had no further problems with car until a week-and-a-half ago--same thing happened. Car towed to dealer again. Started immediately at dealer! Picked up from dealer, that night same thing happened. Did not phone roadside assistance--after 45 minutes car inexplicably started. That was a week ago. No problems since then. Feeling a little panicky w/car that may fail at any time--winter coming.
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I have a 2001 ford focus SE and l can't get the cruise control to work anymore, is the problem a fuse and if so where is it located or a problem with brake pedal?
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Ford Focus 2004 manual 150K miles. Most days the car runs fine. Other days it will start and run until it warms up, then stumbles or hesitates at speed. When this happens the headlights and dash lights are also flickering. Sometimes i hear a clicking sound behind dash, left side. I have the sure cure: turn the heater fan to high. This works every time. When the engine is hesitating, i turn the fan to 4-high, the engine smooths out. Turn the fan down, engine again hesitates. Hesitates at 3, worse at 2, worst at 1. It seems to need the extra load.
But after few minutes of high heater fan, the alternator light comes on. I flick the heater switch down, endure the hesitation for a few seconds, the alternator light goes out, engine still hesitating, flick the fan to high, engine smooths out. A few months ago i could get it to fun smoothly with the fan on 3, didn't need 4-high. Now seems to need 4.On the days when it is always running smoothly, the heater fan can be on any speed, the alternator light does not come on.
Next few days or even weeks the engine will run smoothly, no hesitation, with the fan on or off or any setting.
The car has been to three shops in past year, one of them a major Ford dealer, who kept it two weeks. The problem has been diagnosed as battery (replaced), Battery connections (checked), plugs (replaced), fuel pump controller (replaced), fuel pump (replaced - ouch!), alternator (replaced twice - ouch twice), grounds (checked). Every time they "fix" something the car runs ok for a week or so.OBD shows P2004 (intake manifold runner stuck) but all agree it can't be the problem.
There have been a few times when i flicked the heater fan to high that all the dash lights died, fan went off, headlights off, turn signals didnt' work, but the engine ran smoothly. Not so good on the highway at night!There have been a few time, not recently, when the car wouldn't start. No dome lights, no dash lights with key turned to ON, no clicking or starter with key turned to START. It acted as if my battery was missing. The cure was to turn the headlights on. All normal after that.
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I have a 2002 Saab 9-3. I tried starting it this morning but the key won't move from the locked position at all! What should I do? The steering wheel doesn't seem to be locked and I had the battery changed not to long ago.
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I own a 2013 Elantra GT that my wife drives. We have had it since late September 2012, so it is about 20 months old now, with only 2250 miles. Yes, I know, it is not even broken in yet.
Anyway, yesterday when the wife returned from some shopping she told me that the radio in the car is still on after the engine was off, the ignition locked and the key in your hand.
I checked it out, and sure enough, the radio was still on. I restarted the car, and discovered the power button would not turn the radio off, the radio volume could not be changed, and the station could not be changed. Every control for the Audio system was inoperative, along with all the control buttons on the left side of the steering wheel.
Every thing else in the car appeared to work. When I shut the engine off, and removed the key, the radio still played on. I took the car over to the dealership first thing this morning; the service rep, the service manager and a service tech could not figure it out. I had to leave the car with them, so that one of their Electronic Certified Techs who comes in later could check it out.
They drove the car to a service bay, and disconnected the battery, so the radio would not run the battery down. When the tech came in, he reconnected the battery, and everything now works. They have no idea at all what happened.
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I have a 2001 Santa Fe, and the key is stuck in the ignition. I can't even get it to turn to the Lock position, so it's stuck in accessories. Since I haven't had the funds to do so, I haven't gotten it checked out yet, and it's started to drain my battery. I have to jump it every single morning, so I'm wondering if there's anything I can do until I can gather up the money to fix it.
I have tried moving the steering wheel and shifting it all over the place and spraying DW-40 in there and a whole bunch of other things I've seen work for people on a bunch of different forums, but nothing works. I don't know if this matters, but before it got stuck, it would sometimes be hard to pull out or push the key into the ignition.
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None of my 4 keys will operate my ignition switch.
It's stuck in off position. Steering wheel is not locked and I have pulled pretty hard on it to see if I could get the ignition switch to turn.
I have a new switch on the way but I have to get the old one out and don't know how to get old one out if I cannot turn the switch to on position.
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The key will not turn to off, stuck in acc. I have no power to the windows, sunroof, seat and seat heaters, and no brake lights, and the mirrors have no power either. I took the car to the local GM dealer who told me the ignition was not in any recall and found that the Body Control Module was bad and needed replacement.
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I have a 97 Bravada. Recently the check engine light came on and then went off. I didn't think anything of it at the time till the other day I drove it to work and back fine without any issues, then the next morning I tried starting it and nothing happened. No cranking, no interior lights, no sounds.
I tried jumping it thinking the battery was dead but that didn't work. Now my key is stuck in the ignition in the accessory position. It will not turn all the way back to release the key.
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I have owned 2 SC and I notice both of the SC I have owned get a odd " hissing " sound, when the ignition is turned to the " On" position with the key located in the engine area, It will come on and then go off ...
Sometimes this " hissing " sound will come back on when driving and then off again ...
Hissing sound when the key is turned only to the "on" position?
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Quite awhile ago my key started to randomly get stuck in the middle ignition position but it was happening very rarely and some gentle jiggling was letting me take it out easily. Well a few days ago that went from very rarely to each and every time I start the car.
Now its a tossup whenever I go somewhere whether the key will pop out like it should or I'll have to fiddle with it for anywhere up to ten minutes.
The car never has a problem starting, its only when I have arrived somewhere and need to take the key out that is an issue. I've managed to remove it every time so far but it has taken a fair amount of WD-40, jiggling the bejeezus out of the key and steering wheel and plenty of patience.
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My main relay is chattering badly when my ignition is in the on position but not in the ACC position. All of my "dummy" lights are flashing with the chattering main relay. I have tried to replace both the Start and Main relay and I replaced the battery 3 weeks ago. I have checked the wiring and I do not see anywhere the wires could have been chewed by a mouse and everything appears to be connected. Checked all of the relays and fuses to make sure they were in tightly. Could this be the ignition?
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I have a 2003 2.4L 5 speed manual Santa Fe. I was parking my vehicle and removed my key as usual and realized that the car was still running. I put it into reverse rolled back and back into 1st to roll forward just to make sure I wasn't dreaming. I ended up pulling the fuel pump fuse and disconnecting the battery to turn it off.
When I replaced the fuse and reconnected the battery I was able to bump start the vehicle without the key in the car and drive it all the way home with no problem. I took apart all the plastic pieces around the Ignition and attempted to remove the cylinder but was unable to locate any sort of small button or pin to push on to remove it. Where is the release button?
What are my options here? Do I replace the cylinder first or get a new key, or is there something else that I should check first before I take it in.
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