My wife recently purchase a 2013 Focus SE 5 door and a few times now the ignition key "sticks" in the switch and will not release. She has to turn it back on and off a couple times to get it to release.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford Focus that over the past few days has found itself stuck in park. When I start the engine, the release doesn't trigger and I have to use the manual release in order to move the gearshift level to drive. The same happens if I've been driving, stop and put it back in park--the release button is locked and I have to use the manual release.
My owner's manual suggests that I may have a blown fuse or my brake lamps may not be operating. My brake lamps are, so I'm looking to check the fuses.
My confusion now is coming from which fuse I need to check, and whether its in the fuse panel or power distribution box. The manual has a handy chart showing right where to look, but I don't know what I am looking for.
[URL] ....
I'm not too saavy with working on vehicles, should I just take it to a mechanic or is this something I can check and replace myself if blown?
I have a problem with turning my key. It will not turn at all. I have taken the upper and lower part of the cover off to expose the switch and removed one screw from the ignition housing, but the internal part of the ignition switch will not come out. How do I completely remove this ignition switch. I have already removed the negative battery cable. It seems this is a continual problem with focuses. Oh, do I need a releasing tool to release the ignition switch.
View 7 RepliesI have a 97 grand prix GTP that I am replacing the ignition switch on. I am having trouble locating the small hole on the key cylinder that I put an allen wrench into to release the key cylinder.
View 2 RepliesHappened on my mk6 now on the 20th! When I go to hit the switch for the gas tank release it is completely silent. Could that be the module? Half a tank left so not to worried about bringing it somewhere.
View 2 RepliesSo the car was unused and sitting in snow for about 2 months. Now the car will not start, and actually does not make any noise when key is turned. No lights inside the car turn on. No automatic or electronic buttons work at all. Is this a totally dead battery or starter (since it makes no noise with key in ignition) or something else (e.g. electrical)? I tried to jump start the car which did nothing (but honestly not sure if it was done for a good enough amount of time... about 5 minutes).
View 12 RepliesNone of my 4 keys will operate my ignition switch.
It's stuck in off position. Steering wheel is not locked and I have pulled pretty hard on it to see if I could get the ignition switch to turn.
I have a new switch on the way but I have to get the old one out and don't know how to get old one out if I cannot turn the switch to on position.
My young lad just picked up a 2004 F150 4x4. While fixing it up we have encountered a weird problem. The key goes in , starts and runs the truck but cannot be removed, unless you unhook the battery.
View 5 RepliesSo, I have an 89 Ford Ranger 4-wheel drive and the steering wheel is locked up (along with the ignition switch), neither of which will turn or budge. I've been told to shake steering wheel from side to side while trying to turn key--but after fifteen minutes of that (quite a workout) bupkis, nada, nothing. So, other than taking a sledge hammer to the whole truck? Is there a way to simply break loose the mechanism (I don't need the security aspect of the locking wheel/ignition, since I only use this for "farm use". But I really need it fixed.
View 9 Replies'04 RX330: Starting about a year ago, occasionally when inserting the ignition key it wouldn't turn to start. Take key out try again and it would start. Progressively, it seems to be requiring more and more in/out cycles to get the key to turn. It's like the transponder is not recognizing the key FOB. I have two keys, one is a master and other is a sub key, both have the problem. What has to be done to correct it? I'm afraid the dealer will just change some expensive ignition part when there's an easier fix.
View 14 RepliesRan my battery down on my car when I left my lights on and proceeded to work an 8-hour shift.
Came out and stuck my key in the ignition. Nothing happened, which is when I realized my plight. The dang ignition wouldn't release my key! This meant I couldn't get into the trunk by key. I pressed the (stupidly electric) remote trunk lock. That's where the jumper cables are! Did I mention it was below freezing and I wasn't dressed for sustained outdoor shenanigans?
Fortunately, I was able to flag down co-workers with jumper cables, after a time. We opened the hood--praises, they actually left a cable-actuated device on the car!--and got going. None the less, it was a close scare.
1) Why does the ignition "grab" the key without battery power?
2) How does one defeat 1)?
3) Is it necessary to store my jumper cables INSIDE the car?
4) What mental giant decided a trunk latch that's INOP with a dead battery was a good idea?
I have a decent working understanding of a lock cylinder--6 or so spring-loaded wafers that retract into the cylinder body, allowing it to turn--but I don't see how that requires current flow to work. If it's a "safety" feature, how do I disable it, permanently?
I went test drove a R32 today and I noticed when the headlight switch is in the off position, the HID came on when I release the hand brake, is this normal? I thought the DRL suppose to be the inner two halogen lights not the HID. This way, having a switch is kinda pointless except to turn on/off the the instrumental lights because you have the HID on whenever you release the parking brake, doesn't matter if the switch is in the off position or the on/lowbeam position.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2006 Focus ZX4 with 158k miles. A couple of days ago, I turned on the headlights after starting the engine and had no low beam on the driver's side. Both high beams work. Thinking the filament had gone, I replaced both bulbs with new ones. After several frustrating minutes, I realized the headlights only come on with the ignition switch in the 'run' position. I still have no low beam on the driver's side. I checked the fuse, which appeared to be good, and replaced it anyway.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2012 Ford Focus. The switch for the wipers does not turn on the wipers. However, sometimes the wipers go intermittently when the switch is off - even if ignition is off (and key removed).
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford Focus, lately on occasion, not all the time when I turn the key nothing happens, the car doesn't start. I then turn the key back and forth a few time and turn the wheel a few times and then it start and runs fine and I may not have this happen again for a few weeks or it may happen the next day.
View 11 RepliesAs the title states. It seems like the hatch release button is sticking due to the melting rubber. Would this cause a parasitic drain on the 12v battery?
View 3 Replies2002 Elantra
Replaced new clutch disc and new pressure plate.
Without turning on the engine, the clutch pedal seems to get harder to press, until it can't be pressed down anymore. The pedal can't be pressed down.
Clutch fork lever does not release.
2001 Elantra, Hand brake stuck, is there a release button? I can not seem to release my hand brake. How can I release it so I can make adjustments?
View 2 RepliesThis morning I drove my car to see my dentist. When I parked I engaged the parking brake as I always do out of habit. However this time when I was done at the dentist and got in my car I tried to disengage the parking brake pedal and it wouldn't release. It kept going lower. Now I think its pretty much floored. I had to leave the car in the parking lot as it started to rain heavily. How to release the brake pedal. ? I think it must just be a stuck lever or gear thats preventing the release mechanism from working. Any pics or have dis-assembled a parking brake pedal on the phaeton before.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2009 Ford Focus. The ignition key can not enter the steering column cylinders unless the key is jiggled with a far amount of pushing. I took the car to the dealership in the late Fall and they replaced the ignition cylinder. This worked fine until Spring when the outside temperature got above 75 F.
I have tried using the extra key and it also will not be permitted to enter the cylinder except with a great amount of key jiggling. This problem only occurs when it is above 75 F, it is not a problem for 6 months of the year; but, I am concerned that sometime I won't be able to get the car started.
I have a 1983 Mercedes 380 SL and the ignition key will not turn; the steering wheel will not release the key and I am at a loss as to what to do further than: tapping the ignition cartridge with a hammer, inserting key, tapping it, then trying. Nothing seems to even feel remotely like the key is attempting to work. I have heard it is best NOT to use WD-40 in the lock.
View 4 Replies