Focus :: 2013 Ford Won't Turn Over - Low Battery Message On Car Display
Feb 26, 2016
A week ago while on an errand my car wouldn't start when I returned to it. Dash panel lights/radio/seat belt chime all worked, however. Luckily the shopping center security had a jump box so after a couple of attempts the car started. Got it home, but then it would restart. Have a tester/charger, hooked it up, showed ok and fully charged. Still wouldn't start. Took battery out to shop to get another test to double check next day---battery was putting out 626 CCA when its rated 590 (a Motorcraft battery I'm sure came with car---I'm 2nd owner). Obviously tested good. Put battery back in car. IT STARTED. Drove on another errand and didn't switch off until returning home. After switching off would not restart.
Tried disconnecting and reconnecting battery cables thinking it was a connection problem of some kind---several attempts over last few days. Has yet to start back, and now the car's electronic display is giving a "Low Battery" message, even after I left on the charger (slow charge, 2 amps) ALL DAY, with charger telling me battery is good and fully charged!! I know it has a starter relay that I've found and unplugged and plugged back in (but haven't replaced yet---$9 from Ford). This does not seem like an alternator problem to me. Besides that and relay, the only thing I can think of is starter is bad. (Also had someone recommend to me trying to start with the car in N---auto trans; also no dice).
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
Everytime I finish driving, and turn off the car, I get "key battery low" beep and on display message....
View 11 Replies
Low Battery message in the display when the truck is turned off? Truck is an FX4 Supercrew 5.0 with 4000 miles. No issues with starting or charging, wonder if battery has a bad cell?
View 6 Replies
Every time I put the truck in reverse, I get a "Check Rear Park Aid" message on my display.
I tried wiping all of the sensors clean, and I checked the electrical connections and all seem to be fine.
View 9 Replies
I have a Lexus RX350, I notice that whenever I turn my car off it says "Key Battery Low". I obviously know what this means but that message doesn't appear every time I turn the car off.
View 14 Replies
2002 Ford Focus SE with 130k miles on it. For the past 4 months the battery light flashes randomly while driving. The flashing and frequency of flashing doesn't seem related to anything I can tell including temperature, length of time the car is running, speed or any variable. Seems like it should be an alternator, but that was replaced less than an year ago and it also has a new battery. The alternator always checks out fine at the mechanic and it will never flash for the mechanic. It went 1 month with no flashing and suddenly it will now flash maybe 20 times in a 5 mile drive. Yesterday it just died at a stoplight with no warning, but then after shutting everything off it started just fine and the battery light didn't turn on for the 2 miles to home.
View 5 Replies
I have my check coolant message on my display again... I need to get the fuel filters changed so I'm thinking of having the coolant flushed too. 45,500 or there abouts on the ODO.
View 9 Replies
I bought a 2010 V8 Explorer on Monday and aside from the apparent "known issue" with the hard 2-1 shift (which I'm trying to get it to "unlearn" by driving differently), it's a really nice truck.
When I shift into reverse it says "Park Aid On/Off" in the display, and sure enough, it beeps when I get close to something. That said, there aren't the normal "dots" in the bumper that I normally associate with backup sensors.
Everything works just fine with it, I just am a guy who likes to know how things work and I don't see anything on the outside that would indicate it's a parking sensor.
View 7 Replies
My truck started to display exhaust filter clogged and cleaning exhaust filter multiple times today. The cleaning exhaust message stayed on until I hot OK and then it comes back later. Not sure what this means?
View 14 Replies
I have a 2003 ford focus wagon, automatic transmission, 140,000 miles. The battery light has been going on and off for 5 months, and the car has shut down several times. I've had the following replaced/repaired:
Spark plugs replaced. Two days later, car died.
Battery replaced. Two days later car died.
Alternator replaced. 4 days later car died on a vacation trip. Before it died, the battery light came on when I had to accelerate, and also when going down hills. Frequency increased and power shut off several times. If I waited 10-15 minutes, it would start up again. Finally would not start up - completely dead. Computer diagnostics first said the alternator was bad. Then, while still hooked up to computer, the bad alternator indicator disappeared and the alternator reported no problems. Technician ran the car for a few hours every day for a week and took it for test drives but light never came on.
When I got back from vacation, the new alternator was replaced with a ford alternator - the theory was that some 2003 ford focus computer chips have trouble recognizing alternators that aren't ford's.
All was good for about 4 months. Then battery light started going on and off again - sometimes 20-30 times in 40 minutes, sometimes only 5-6 times in that time span. Computer diagnostics found nothing - light never came on.
Car was vibrating. Had engine mounts replaced 4 days ago, hoping the electrical problem was caused by something vibrating against something else that connected to the alternator, and if the vibrations stopped, the battery light would stay off. First 35 miles - no battery light! Then it started coming on again, but not as much as before the engine mounts were replaced.
Battery light seems to only come on now:
1) Every time I start up and begin driving and I think the car shifts to higher gears;
2) whenever I go up hills - it has also come on a couple of times when going down a hill (just like before, when the alternator was replaced);
3) when I accelerate beyond 55 mpg.
I can get the light to go off if
1) I floor the gas pedal;
2) I pump the brakes;
3) I put the car in park.
Mechanics are stumped. I love my car, but every time I drive it now, I worry the entire time about the battery light and about the power shutting off.
View 3 Replies
Brought my truck (2012 F350) for recall service for one of the faulty exhaust temperature sensors. It took them one week to replace the sensor (!), then when I came to pick it up I got: "Trailer Brake Module Fault" message on the display.
I have never seen this message, since I own the truck (I am original owner). The service adviser said it will take a minute to reprogram the module and took the truck back to the shop. Came back after a while, saying that it didn't work and I need to leave the truck, so another technician can work on it tomorrow. Tomorrow came and I got the call that they reprogrammed the module, but the message still shows up, so they need to work on it (another day!).
As of now they still don't know what is going on. Apparently they broke something while replacing the EGT sensor and how to fix it.
View 12 Replies
I am the owner of a 2013 Pathfinder and a 2013 Altima. If I have both sets of FOB keys on me when I press the start button on my Altima the car goes into battery mode. Will not completely turn on or won't turn off. The only way to shut the car down is disconnect the battery, wait 20 minutes, and hope the car is completely shut down. Then try again and hope the car turns on.
I was told having both FOB keys on me causes interference and only carry the key I need. Besides that being absurd and can't do that because I drive my Altima in the morning and the Pathfinder at night to pick the kids up because the car seats are in there. So what I have been doing to avoid this problem is taking the Pathfinder FOB and putting in homemade aluminum foil bag so the car can't read that key. Nissan seems to think this isn't a problem.
View 10 Replies
O/D light was blinking and "check trans" message was on display. I brought in for service and they changed trans fluid & filter. I have to take back to service center because now tranny is slipping. I would like to have some information before going back. It was not doing this before service. It is OK on highway for most part, happens more when starting out. Also has shut off a few times while sitting at a light. It didn't do any of this before service. What would cause this? Could it be the wrong fluid or not enough added?
View 1 Replies
I'm a new Powestroke Diesel owner. I recently (Dec. 2012) picked up a 2008 F-350 Crew Cab, DRW, 4x2 with a 6.4l automatic. Love the truck. Lots of power. Runs great. My question is; while driving, every couple of days the "cleaning exhaust filter" message comes up on the display for about 10 secs. I understand what that message means and what the truck is doing. What I don't understand is, why does the truck seem to run like crap after? It seems to be down a little on power and the idle surges until I shut it off and restart and then everything is fine.
It doesn't matter how long it runs after the DPF cleaning message displays. Also, three times now since I purchased it it has shown a different message, "drive to clean exhaust filter" followed by "cleaning exhaust filter". This message will stay on for many minutes. What is the difference between messages? Is the truck doing anything different? Is it ok to shut the truck off while either of those messages are displayed? The first time it happened I drove around for 15 minutes or so afraid to shut it off! Unfortunately the truck is obviously used and the owners manual was missing.
View 10 Replies
I have a a 2005 Focus, 199,000 miles. The battery light has been come on randomly. It doesn't seen to be related to any other event in the car. Things I've done to diagnose it...
I cleaned the battery cable connections before I started any diagnostics.
I have two code reader and no codes are being thrown.
I connected a multimeter to the battery while the car was idling in the driveway.
I got 13.8-14.1 volts as the car sat and ran. When the light came on no change on the meter.
I have a Scan Gauge that allows me to watch the voltage in real time. Four days and no change when the light came on. ~13.8-14.1 at idle and ~14.1-14.4 underway.
I have the Car Chip. I plugged it in drove for about 10 runs and the voltage trace was pretty flat on all runs, battery light on or off.
The only thing that is consistent is if the light is on and I rev the engine it goes out BUT they rpm when the light goes is inconsistent.
View 6 Replies
My daughter called me and said her "battery light" came on. I didn't even know there were battery lights. The car still starts and runs fine. What could cause the "battery light" to come on?
View 2 Replies
I have a 2004 Ford Focus. I had the battery replaced in May. Two months ago, the battery light came on for 10 minutes than went off. A week later the dash lights dimmed and then rebrightened. Talking with people they thought the alternator was the issue. I had it replaced three weeks ago. I got it back from the mechanic and it worked for two days.
On day 3 it would click and the dash lights would flash but it would not crank. Mechanic jumped it and brought it to the shop and found nothing. Two days later the same problem. Took to another mechanic and they found the radio was draining power so they unplugged the fuse. Again, it worked for two days, then the same problem. They have had it for a week and have no clue what is wrong.
View 7 Replies
My 2005 Ford Focus just came out of the shop getting the alternator replaced. Driving down the road it just died. The car still has power, Lights, interior lights, all that stuff is on. I turn the key and nothing.
View 6 Replies
I just purchased a 2013 Ford Focus hatchback SE Monday night. Tuesday morning I came out of the house to get in my car, I unlocked the car, and opened the door. Before I even got into the car I heard a "scratch scratch scratch whirr whirr" coming from the engine. The dealer did not show me where the hood latch was so by the time I figured out how to open the hood the noise had stopped (within a minute of when it started.) Driving that day I did not notice any more noise, nor any issues with the engine.
Wednesday morning (today) I came out to get in my car, and when I opened the door I heard the same nose coming from under the hood. I got the hood open and looked in with a flashlight while the nose was still going. The noise was coming from the right hand side of the engine block, but I did not see anything actually moving to cause the scratching and whirring noise.
View 7 Replies
We have a brand new 2013 Ford Focus, a little over 2500 miles. We drove the vehicle to NYC, starting the trip with over 500 miles. During stop-n-go driving the following conditions are experienced: - car in drive but stopped, engine idles at 750rpm- car moving at crawl speed, less than 5mph, and RPM between 750 to 2100, engine acts as if it will stall (IT IS AN AUTOMATIC TRANS); when this happens there's an obvious shudder - again almost as if the car will stall out- cannot determine what gear its in, but probably first, second, or maybe third, but no higher
We took the car back to the dealer, but they acted as if this was a normal, if not, non existent issue; they were very dismissive.
View 15 Replies
Last week, I brought my 2002 Ford Focus (automatic transmission) to the mechanic to have an oil change and to have the motor mounts and cabin air filter replaced. Before I brought the car in, it was fairly loud at idle--which had been going on for a couple of years and which I attributed to the worn motor mounts--but had otherwise been running fine.
When I went to pick it up after the repairs, the car would not start. The mechanic ran some tests and told me that the alternator was overcharging the battery. The battery could no longer hold a charge, so both the alternator and the battery needed to be replaced, which the mechanic did.
I thought at first that everything was OK after the battery and alternator replacement. Because I almost always turn my car off immediately after putting it in park, I didn't realize what was happening and that it was a problem... but in retrospect, I realize that ever since I got the car back from this second set of repairs, the battery light has flashed on during the split second between when I shift to park and when I turn the ignition off.
Yesterday, I took my car back to the mechanic because it stalled when I was in the parking lot at work. (I realize now that it must have happened just after I shifted gears, probably into park.) Since that was the first time it had actually properly stalled--rather than just a quick battery light flash just before I turned the car off--I had not yet made the connection between the stalling and the shifting to park, so all I told the mechanic is that it stalled on me when I was slowing to a stop. I'm pretty sure the first time it stalled was the first time I let it idle for more than a half-second in park before turning off the ignition.
He kept my car for a full day and ran a lot of tests on it. He was unable to make the car stall during multiple test drives (though, to be fair, I hadn't told him that the trigger for making it stall was shifting to park because I didn't realize it myself yet). There were no engine codes, the check engine light was never on, the fuel pressure is OK, and the throttle body position sensor, the idle air control valve, the ignition system, and the fuel system were giving no abnormal readings. When I asked, he told me that they did perform an idle-relearn procedure after replacing the battery and alternator. He returned the car to me and told me to come back if it stalled again.
Tonight, when I got the car home, it started to die immediately when I put it into park (the headlights dimmed and the battery light came on). I was able to reproduce this a second time as well. Fortunately, it does start back up just fine.
I plan to take the car in for repairs again, but I'm wondering if I should go back to the same mechanic. My questions are:
1) What is likely to be causing the problem?
2) Is it something that is likely to have been caused by incompetence when installing the new battery and alternator or doing other repairs, or could it be a coincidence (I was willing to believe the first coincidence of the battery and alternator dying while the car was at the repair shop, but I'm having difficulty believing a second coincidence)?
3) Whether or not the problem is likely to be the mechanic's fault, is it something that a thorough check on their part should have discovered?
View 4 Replies
