Focus :: 2003 Wagon Hesitates When Hit The Gas From A Dead Stop
Dec 2, 2013
My 2003 2.0 Zetec focus wagon has a problem when I hit the gas from a dead stop. The car hesitates for a second or 2, like it's not getting enough fuel, then it revs up OK. Not all the time though, about 1 in every 5 stops. Once it's moving, there's no problem, you can accelerate just fine. I replaced the fuel filter and added fuel treatment. I also saw it had a real bad valve cover leak that had flooded all the spark plug wells. I replaced the gasket, plugs and wires, but it didn't seem to make a difference. Using a scanner, I monitored fuel pressure at idle, it was about 38.5 PSI. When I hit the gas it it went up to about 40 PSI. I think maybe the ignition module/coil might be going out, but don't want to replace it unless I have to.
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I have a 1991 Audi 100 that is flawless and paid for. 215,000 miles and doesn't leak or use a drop of any vital fluid. It does have one problem: While under load and accelerating from a dead stop, about 75% of the time the engine hesitates as if it is not getting any fuel. You step on the accelerator, get no response for one second and then off you go, no problem. On occasion while accelerating from a dead stop, the engine will quickly cough, pop like a backfire, and then catch. I have replaced the fuel filter, and through accident inadvertently found out that I seem to have excellent fuel pressure. While at speed, I seem to have little or no problem with instant acceleration when the accelerator is pressed.
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I have a 2014 F250 with the 3.55 rear end and 6500 miles and since new it has a hesitation from a dead stop that I cannot determine if it is normal or not. I took it into a dealer that specializes in diesels and they drove it and told me it is normal. Every time I see someone with the 6.7 I ask them if they have the same problem and I get all kinds of explanations from turbo lag to protecting the tranny. The hesitation I feel is when I throttle from a dead stop. It is a very slight hesitation, but very noticeable, almost like a little "dead spot." If I take my foot off the brake and let it take off on its own for just a second or two and then throttle smoothly it is not there at all. If this is not normal, I want to do everything I can to get it fixed. It is driving me nuts.
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My 1992 960 automatic wagon with 326K miles has started to kind of lurch into low gear, especially from a stop or a rolling stop where I am not giving any gas but not using the brake. Then when I do give it some gas, it doesn't do anything at first, then it clunks into motion, and it seems to me the rpms are pretty high (3K). Once it gets going it seems fine, and it upshifts and downshifts as expected (well, occasionally it clunks changing gears at highway speeds, but it has done that for a long time). Yesterday during stop-and-go traffic (more than 100 miles worth) I was so stressed out wondering if it was going to completely die.
The winter mode arrow indicators have been stuck On for years, by the way, but it has never acted as if it thought it really was in winter mode (where you start up in third). They didn't think it was worth fixing, as it would have been very expensive and wasn't really affecting anything. I don't think my current issue could be that, though -- surely it wouldn't be clunking into gear then?
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My 2008 Ford Focus SE hesitates at highway speeds, seems to decelerate and accelerate, sometimes more, sometime less and sometime not at all. dosn't seem to affect the acceleration.
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I've switched the fuel pump on this car more than once and made sure the fuel line isn't crimped yet it still hesitates. Also, the temp. shoots up when idling and appears to need either a fan or temp. switch?
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Ford Focus 2004 manual 150K miles. Most days the car runs fine. Other days it will start and run until it warms up, then stumbles or hesitates at speed. When this happens the headlights and dash lights are also flickering. Sometimes i hear a clicking sound behind dash, left side. I have the sure cure: turn the heater fan to high. This works every time. When the engine is hesitating, i turn the fan to 4-high, the engine smooths out. Turn the fan down, engine again hesitates. Hesitates at 3, worse at 2, worst at 1. It seems to need the extra load.
But after few minutes of high heater fan, the alternator light comes on. I flick the heater switch down, endure the hesitation for a few seconds, the alternator light goes out, engine still hesitating, flick the fan to high, engine smooths out. A few months ago i could get it to fun smoothly with the fan on 3, didn't need 4-high. Now seems to need 4.On the days when it is always running smoothly, the heater fan can be on any speed, the alternator light does not come on.
Next few days or even weeks the engine will run smoothly, no hesitation, with the fan on or off or any setting.
The car has been to three shops in past year, one of them a major Ford dealer, who kept it two weeks. The problem has been diagnosed as battery (replaced), Battery connections (checked), plugs (replaced), fuel pump controller (replaced), fuel pump (replaced - ouch!), alternator (replaced twice - ouch twice), grounds (checked). Every time they "fix" something the car runs ok for a week or so.OBD shows P2004 (intake manifold runner stuck) but all agree it can't be the problem.
There have been a few times when i flicked the heater fan to high that all the dash lights died, fan went off, headlights off, turn signals didnt' work, but the engine ran smoothly. Not so good on the highway at night!There have been a few time, not recently, when the car wouldn't start. No dome lights, no dash lights with key turned to ON, no clicking or starter with key turned to START. It acted as if my battery was missing. The cure was to turn the headlights on. All normal after that.
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So what I might have thought to be a transmission lag may be actually a dead zone in the pedal. When pressing the pedal from dead stop nothing happens until you press the pedal down further. Any way to reduce that or eliminate?
I'm referring to NA 2.5L engine with auto trans.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Tundra V6. The problem I have with it is it hesitates. It does not happen ALL the time but it is very frequent. Sometimes it happens when I try to accelerate from a dead stop and other times while I am driving along (does not matter what speed). It will usually hesitate for a few seconds then everything is normal. The check engine light thus not come on.
I took it into Toyota. They duplicated the problem on the first test drive but did not have their equipment hooked up at the time. They kept the truck for over a week and finally got it to happen again. I guess they must have only been going on short test drives because it happens to me multiple times a day. They told me it was the throttle body and it needed to be replaced. My jaw hit the floor when they told me how much they charge to replace it. I ran this by a couple of friends who work on cars on the side and they said it sounded like the mass air flow sensor needed to be replaced. Since this was much cheaper than a throttle body, I replaced that. However, it did not solve the problem.
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I am pretty sure my pedal is going.. Today and last month it would just die from a dead stop push the pedal and no go, but truck idling fine. I cleaned it off a few weeks ago but now its back. push pedal in and out a few times and all is fine for a few weeks. Truck runs fine other than that. Does not throw a code, just trans light comes on because no movement I think, then it goes off as soon as i start to move along. I have a adjustable pedal assembly 2c3z-9f836-de 508.45 at white bear lake ford.
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For probably years, I have had a bump, thump type noise when I start from a dead stop... say at a red light. I had it in my head, maybe there was that much slop in the drive train... as old truck is over 400,000 miles.
Yesterday, I rebuilt the driver's side axle, bearing,seals, new hub...the works.. I heard that noise again later... and my thoughts were, I did all that work and I'm going to find a lower/upper ball joint is bad, although I did look at them and thought they were fine during the rebuild.
Had my wife get in truck.... and swing wheel back & forth... so maybe I could see what was loose.. or making noise.
I was shocked... just something I never thought of looking at. The u-bolts holding the leaf springs were loose... the whole axle was shifting back and forth on the axle. I've never touched those bolts....
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Got a 90 740 GLE station wagon (missing its rear muffler at present) that turns over yet doesn't like to start up on the first or second try. It has also stalled out at stop signs, and once when driving. Had a tune up about 3 months ago, new plugs and plug wires, and some welding on the exhaust, but the muffler is still missing. Could the exhaust be causing this in any way? It always eventually starts. Could use a little more power, but, hey, it's a 22 year old car. I'd really like to get this solved, as my ex drives it with my kid. Could this be a fuel pump or fuel filter issue?
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My 1999 GLS Wagon died on me at a stop light. The motor turns but won't start. Replaced fuel pump, filter, fuse, and relay on advice from a few friends. Still no go. Another friend recommended I check the crank sensor.
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I have 05 Caravan, 4 cyl, 115k. Runs fine (just got back from a 2000 mile trip) that seems to have a quirk or something with the AC.
When I have the AC on and stop at a light, it feels like it hesitates several times. I almost think it'll stall (never has). I usually end up turning off the AC while we're at the light, and start it back up when I accelerate. When the AC is off, there is no hesitation. Also, If I put it in park, and we have the AC on, no problem. I rarely, if ever, have the recirculation going.
One thing of note: I usually wait until I'm out of our neighborhood and on the main street before turning it on. That means the windows are down until I turn it on. When I do, occasionally I hear a sound that best can be described as similar to the sound of loosening a tight lug nut. Still, as long as I'm driving, there is no hesitation and it cools fine.
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My pontiac is missing, from a complete stop, she hesitates a second before she goes.............and in the driving, I can feel a misfiring, not a noise, but it's not smooth, it's hesitating as I'm driving her too. We have replaced the fuel filter, air filter, had a tune up & trans serviced, it seemed to be better for a while, but now it's back.... She's an oldie, but a goodie, and we want to keep her...
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After 3rd consecutive stop, my focus will not stay running It turns over but shuts off promptly. After one hour it starts again without a problem. It does this only in the summer, but it has never overheated,and it has never left a code. I replaced the following Battery, alternator, fuel pump,fuel pump relay, themostat and housing, crank and cam sensor, oxygen sensor. What could the problem be?
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Garage tells me tranny is working well. The problem seems to be worse when engine is cold. When pulling away from a stop, sounds like a toaster is being shaken under the hood with a loss of power...leaving 2nd into 3rd. Are there any other engine parts i should be testing?
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When I first start out driving the car, and come to a stop, in drive, the car begins to run rough. I can hear and feel the vibration, it's very noticeable. I put it in neutral and it stops. As I load the engine with AC or use the electric windows it seems to gets worse. Then after driving for about 5-7 miles, it quits. Primarily in cold weather, since it started 4 months ago. I do allow the car to warm up before driving.I'm still under warranty, and have been to the dealer 3 times. Of course, it doesn't happen when I go to see the dealer. But they did re-tighten the motor mounts. I don't think it worked.
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Started the car got out of the parking lot and drove a few feet till it stalled and rolled to a stop. It cranks but would not turn over all the way to drive. Called mechanic to let them know that it would be towed. They asked if it had gas. It has a 1/4 tank. Tow driver asked the same question. I'm wondering if the fuel pump could be the culprit or timing belt. If timing belt than I wonder if the engine could be the bad kind (interference). And of course cost. It has just over 90k miles and it has received regular oil changes but not the recommended services. I'm biking to the mechanic to drop the key off and thought that I would try it again and look under the hood, but I need to know what to look for.
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I have a 1987 automatic Nissan Sentra XE- two barrel carburetor, mileage 212,880. The car has one major problem that is going to get me hit driving it in rush hour. Most mechanics will not touch the car due to being carburetor.
Let me explain: the car idles real rough at times, hesitates at stop signs and red lights, about stalls out on me when I press the gas pedal to go or when I start to make a left or right turn. However, other times the car has little to no hesitation and idles perfectly. I have not been able to come up with a good a pattern with this problem.
I have replaced, fuel pump & filter, spark plug wires, coil, distributor, ecu computer, ran sea foam through the fuel system and have replaced many vacuum hoses.
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Just got a CEL on my 03 Passat Wagon 1.8t. The light started blinking and car ran really rough. I also heard what I thought was a metalic clicking from the motor. Pulled the engine cover off and heard it even better. Had my wife start the car so I could get a closer look and it started up just fine. I have heard of a few things that might cause this. I am waiting for my vagcom to get here from my dad's place, so cannot scan it yet. Here are possibles.
1. Coil Pack (not year/part number of recall at least I don't think. What part number was under recall)
2. Issue with a vacuum hose ("L" shaped) on the top of the intake manifold.
3. Ignition control unit.
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