I have a 2000 focus ZTS with about 190,000 mile. Near the back of the valve body near firewall I have a loud suction of air sound. I've checked all vacuums and they are good. I was told it's the air control valve but not sure. The car idles rough at all times and when I turn it off is the sound sounds like it's draining out.
View 2 Repliesmy 2000 focus se, 2.0L SPI, with 82k began to recently run rough at idle then progressed to stalling at longer lengths of idle. The condition starts once the engine warms after 2-5 minutes. I 1st tried gas treatment. I replaced the ignition coil as suggested in the other threads, but it has not improved the problem. I had the fuel pump recall-replaced 2 years ago. I would guess that a bad fuel pump would exhibit loss of power at all engine speeds? Before I proceed to replace plug wires and plugs.
View 14 Repliesi recently changed my engine oil and filter from carquest brand to quaker state and about 500 miles later, i started having some issues like, rough idle and loud ticking and bottom engine noise. is that just a coincidence or any problems with this oil? 1.6L D.O.H.C.
View 2 RepliesAfter I took my Ford Focus 2011 to the dealership for a free oil change I noticed a subtle, low hum coming from the car when I hit speeds past 40mph. At first it sounded like the engine of a louder car driving near me so it took me a couple days to realize that it was actually my car making the noise. I intended to bring the car right back to the dealership to complain about this but I kept getting preoccupied with my studies for my summer courses. It's been roughly 3 weeks now and the low hum has gotten a lot louder now and can be heard over music.
The noise begins when I approach 40mph. The noise is probably at its loudest at speeds of 40mph-70mph. The noise is made even when I am not stepping on the accelerator or using the breaks. I haven't tried putting the car in neutral at those speeds. What might be causing that noise? Although I don't really trust the dealership since my car seems to manifest a new problem after each visit.
I have a 2000 Ford Focus with about 145,000 miles on it. When I'm driving I can hear a drumming noise. The faster I go the louder and more fast paced the drumming noise becomes. When I hit about 50 I can hear it, and the faster I go the louder it is. At about 60 the car starts to shake a little bit. When I'm going like 20 or 30 or so, it sounds like I can almost hear my tires turning if that makes sense. The noise is really loud and is starting to concern me. A friend said my CV boots are ripped, but before I take it into a mechanic I would like some non biased opinions.
View 5 RepliesI recently bought a 2001 Ford Focus (about 4 months ago) and it recently began having a rough idle, check engine light, and stalling. One night, I started and it immediately stalled. When I tried to drive it, it made a grinding noise. Eventually, I made it home and got it to a shop the next day. I was told that it was likely the pistons by a mechanic. He later confirmed it was the pistons, had them replaced, sent my engine off to a machine shop for "smoothing". 2 days later, I had it back and it seemed to be running great. Took it to work and went up a small grade hill (not even labeled) and it began chugging, making a grinding noise and the check engine light began flashing.
I took it back to the shop where the mechanic couldn't even keep it running and he determined that it was a broken hose. He replaced it, free of charge and the car ran great for a couple days. Next thing you know, it begins the rough idle and random stalling but no check engine light. I took it back in and he asked to keep it for a few days. He said that he determined the machine shop didn't do things correctly and sent it back in. I got it back this morning and it seemed to be running fine for my husband, but once I got in it, there was a loud rumble and a slightly rough idle. Then, there was the smell of burnt rubber. My mechanic wants it back, but isn't open again until Monday and I work the next two days. By the time I got it home from work, it had a very rough idle, issues accelerating and I'm still having issues going up hills.
Clearly, my mechanic is really focused on the issue being related solely to my pistons and is only focusing on that. I think something else is wrong and is being missed, but I have no clue what.
I have a 2008 Ford Focus - 4 Door Sedan SE 60300 miles.
I've gone to 3 mechanics now and no one can seem to figure out whats wrong with my car. Here's whats happening:
About 1 1/2 years ago I took my car to get an oil change at Jiffy Lube (Yeah never again). When I left, my car was idling funny... Silly me didn't take it right back and have them tell me what was wrong.. so I let it go, well about a month later it started idling even weirder. Basically it feels like my car is shaking when it gets under 1000 RPM and I notice my RPM dial start falling and bouncing back, acting like its going to stall, but never does. I notice a loss of power when this is happening (on speed up and just accelerating in general). All of this is random, I can't seem to put a pattern to it as to when it happens. One day I'll start it up and everything is perfect... Then I'll shut it off and restart it later, and it starts vibrating and puttering again... No signals as to if its hot/cold or wet/dry, no environmental variables seem to cause it to happen anymore than others. And there is no check engine light on, everything "looks" normal.
What I've had done to it so far is:
Air filter changed / reseated
3 oil changes (keep getting told it will work)
Throttle cleaned
Computer reset for idle sensor data rebuilding
Now I'm told that I need new engine mounts, and that could be the reason for the vibration. I'm thinking that the vibration caused the mounts to wear out, more so than the mounts being the cause. Mainly because I don't see how bad mounts could cause loss in power/bad idling.
What could be wrong?!? Really bugging me and don't want to keep throwing money at it for phantom solutions. Seems like mechanics I go to can't figure it out unless there is a check engine light on with some diagnosis code to tell them exactly whats wrong.
I have a 2000 Ford Focus that vibrates more at idle. The previous owner replaced the top passenger side motor mount when I bought it in Nov. I just replaced the bottom and then the other top drivers side mount two days later. 75% improvement but I wonder if there is some thing in the engine like an adjustment of some kind. I have only had it a couple months so I don't know when the last time it had a tune up. I can replace the spark plugs my self but would need a computer diagnosis to determine if there is something else that needs some adjustment of replacement.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford Focus Wagon with 114,00o miles on it. I'm having a problem determining why it is stalling in reverse and also sometimes while it is idling. I've had the idle speed motor replaced, hoses checked, etc. After we had these things done the car seemed a little better but I could still feel the car hinting at wanting to stall.
I also noticed it usually stalls in reverse when I'm turning the steering wheel but not if I'm backing up in a straight line. It also feels like it wants to stall when it sits at a long traffic light. Before I had the idle speed motor replaced it stalled more often - several times a week. However, now it stalls a little less.
On another note, the car seems to idle a little rough. It almost sounds like a diesel engine. It seems to simmer down some once the engine is warm. I had a new water pump installed and a timing belt put in and now I can hear a squeaking sound coming from that area of the engine. I'm not sure if any of these symptoms are related.
I own a 2001 Buick Century Limited that has 208k miles on it. A couple days ago I started the car up at a friends house and noticed that it had a loud rough idle and that the check engine light came on. When I drove the car home, the CEL would flash when I accelerated and I could smell something burning. When I released the gas pedal and coasted, the flashing CEL would return back to a solid state but I could still smell the burning. When I would accelerate, the CEL would start to flash again. Whenever I was stopped at a stop sign, the flashing CEL would again be solid and there would be a loud rough idle along with the same burning smell. Am I looking at an engine replacement or an easy fix? One problem or could it be multiple problems?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2005 Accent with just over 35,000 miles on. Last night (in extreme cold here in Chicago), the car started running loud. Loud on start, idle, and acceleration - normal when maintaining speed, even at highway speed.
Since the loud sound first started, I have driven about 100 miles (had to for work, no choice). The sound is pretty much the same - definitely in the front end, and the best way I can describe it is a much louder version of the normal sounds you would hear - idle sound but louder, acceleration sound but louder, etc.
No warning lights have come on, car hasn't shown any signs of overheating on the gauges, etc. I had a somewhat similar issue with an old '99 Saturn SL2 w/ 115,000 miles - but in that instance the flex pipe had corroded and completely separated from the rest of the exhaust system.
My 2011 2.0t has developed an odd ticking sound from the engine bay that is audible when idling. I haven't been able to pinpoint the source of the sound because once I drop the vehicle in Neutral it goes away although sometimes I do hear random ticks when I do this. The ticking sound is intermittent and sometimes I hear nothing.
In the video at 11 seconds the ticking starts. At 18 seconds it ends as I drop the car in neutral. What this sound could be? I'm going to try to hit the handbrake and check myself or have someone in the drivers seat while I go check but have yet to truly pinpoint the source of the noise.
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I have a 2000 pontiac grand am with a 2.4 L engine it is automatic transmission. Th issue is i just bought the car from a lot thinking it was an easy fix. What happens is when i start the car it goes from a 1k idle to a 500 or lower and sounds like it might die or if i am at a stop light and decelerate too fast it also feels like its going to die and has a few times unless i keep the gas pedal pressed down. I read the codes at my local store they said it was a engine misfire, o2 sensor the front one, and the map sensor.
My farther works at a pull and save which is a lot to pull used parts from cars hes brought a used ignition coil, used boots , i bought new spark plugs and nothing was fixed there. we have replaced the maf sensor and the map sensor both with used parts neither fixed the problem. I am at my wits end here i cannot afford to take it to the shops around here and am trying to get this fixed to get back and forth to work. I may have left out parts that have been replaced, also as far as lights are concerned the check engine soon light is on .
In idle and driving the car sounds rough as if a pulley was loose, after checking no pulley was loose but problem still persists. Tried turning wheel left n right n noise didn't go away or get worse its a constant noise, what it may be? Crankshaft pulley? Idler pulley?
View 2 Replies4 cyldr has very rough idle along with engine shake. Just started doing this. I replaced the cam sensor a few months ago and all has been well. But it started running so rough, almost like it jumped time. I was disconnecting sensors to see if motor idle changed and when I unplugged mass air flow sensor on air filter intake tube, nothing changed. Could this cause such a dramatic idle ?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Accent with about 150,000 miles on it. Recently I have noticed that when my car is sitting in an intersection, the car appears to idle roughly. I would't exactly say that the car is idling rough, cause it stays at a consistent RPM while in drive or park, but the engine gets louder and the steering wheel starts to vibrating. When I slightly step on the gas, the vibration goes away. Also, when I put my car in park or neutral, the car quiets down and the vibrating stops.
I was wondering if it could be the throttle position sensor, or maybe a broken motor mount, but I haven't had a chance to look into it it. I did replace the purge control valve last week, which slightly improved the vibrations.
I have a 2000 jetta 2.0, and the idle seems to rough and when I start the car it seems like I might stall.
View 9 RepliesI have 2000 ford windstar with 3.8 engine. I have been reading up on the idle problems with these vans. However, most responses are in regard to the engine stalling and/or it trips a code. My does not do this. Sometimes the idle is rough and other times everything is smooth. I am thinking it may be an egr valve or dpfe valve.
View 5 RepliesWhile driving our car I heard a loud popping sound and had to call roadside assistance. I was informed that the frame had cracked which probably caused the axle to drop. The car is part of a class action suit for corrosion of the frame. Customer service says that they will cover any damages to the car as a result of problems with the frame. If the local Hyundai asks for payment, Should I have the car fixed and submit the bill to the main office for reimbursement?
View 2 Replies2000 Sierra 1500, 5.3L engine. When he starts it in the cold (below 40 degrees) at first hits 1000rpm, then immediately drops to 400-500rpm. The idle is rough and wants to die if he tries to drive it. However after 10-15 minutes and the eng warms up, its fine no problems at all. There is no codes, so the scanner we had didn't tell us anything. He had cleaned the TB and intake system with cleaner, no dice. He also disconnected the IAC while it was idling rough, that didn't change the way it ran at all. We would like to toubleshoot it more before we start throwing parts at it.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Alero w/ 2.4 103,000 miles auto. I have been trying to fix a problem for about 3 months. It all started one night when i got stuck in my backyard in about a foot if mud. I thought i could drive it out, but when the wheels would spin and traction control would limit the rpms. After getting out the car would skip every now and then going up an incline at highway speeds in 4th gear (drive) then it would skip while idling. I could get it to run smooth if i hit the pedal and made it shift to 3rd. I drive this car daily and the problem has got worse slowly. Now its hard to crank and when it does there is a small amount of white smoke with strong gas smell while the motor spudders for about 10 secs.
It will finally "clear" up and still misfire every few secs or just cut off. Gas mileage is terrible between 15-18mpg. The engine light and trac off light has only been on twice. Both times the code was for random misfire of multiple cylinders. I have put plugs, boots (wires), distributor, 2 fuel processor regulator, seafoam, all octanes of gas, pulled injectors (looked ok a little dirty but still could be one) and I have ordered ignition control module. Its getting hard to drive and even harder to sell. It has just started the white smoke and gas smell and i think its that's the pressure regulator, but the skipping and rough idle....