Fiat - Spider :: 1975 - Stalling As Soon As Begin To Let The Clutch Out When Put Car In Gear
Dec 13, 2015
I finally reinstalled my engine and transmission with a new clutch in my 1975 fiat spider. I've managed to get it started and idling nicely, but when I put it in gear, as soon as I begin to let the clutch out, it stalls. It's as though it triggers a kill switch.
Not sure if it has something to do with the clutch safety switch...? I tried jumping it in case the switch is bad, but that wasn't it. Maybe a vacuum leak/Though I would think a vac leak wouldn't let it idle and rev nicely which it does.
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Father-in-law purchased 1982 Fiat Spider. The car won't go into 4th gear, scrapes when you let the clutch out. It scrapes a little when you put it in 2nd gear. 1st, 3rd, and Reverse no problem. Changed Syncronisers, no change, put in transmission from doner car, same problem.
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I'm stumped with my 1973 Fiat 850 Spider. This little car has a grand total of 10 fuses, 8 below the dashboard, and two in the rear where the engine is. So, it's not that complicated, right? Wrong.
So here's the story: I purchased this little car in Philly. Everything works, except after a few days, I noticed that the car battery was out. So I jump it and allow the alternator to recharge it. It runs fine for a few days until it goes dead again. It reaches the point where it's completely dead, no service light, no radio, nothing.
I figured I bought a car with an old battery. I replaced it with a new one from Walmart. It runs great for a few days until gradually no charge again. I take it to a shop to fix something else, they test the battery and they tell me it's bad, that I bought a brick. OK, bad luck, right?
I replace the Walmart battery for another one under the warranty. What can go wrong now? Well, the same symptoms appeared after a few days. By now, surely it cannot be the battery. So I know what you're thinking. My little convertible has a parasitic draw. But remember, it has only 10 fuses, no power windows, no power locks, no computer, no software, no Bluetooth...gish, it has a push-button AM radio, for crying out loud!
So I proceed to recharge the battery. I trickle charged it for 18 hours or so. The battery is now back to new. I then connected my meter in series to the negative pole to measure the amps, expecting as you would imagine a draw of at least 4 amps. Well, the little devil has a draw of only .35 amps, well below the acceptable level for a car this type (right?).
So what gives? Does the car have gremlins or parasites? Am I going crazy? Can I be so unlucky that I have had three bad batteries in a row (even from Walmart)? Am I missing something?
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I have a 96 ZR2 4.3L VIN W engine. original problem: rough idle, ran pretty good on highway, chk engine lite on, error code P300 random misfire. Just in general maint. I replaced fuel filter first. After replacing injector spider now engine will not start.
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My gas pedal wont work at all on my 1975 chevy malibu it feels like something slipped off when I stepped on it this morning....
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About 2-3 months ago I noticed that whenever I would push the clutch in and let the revs drop, they would drop below the 800 rpm mark and the car would automatically rev them back up to prevent from stalling. This usually happens when I am slowing to come to a stop, like coming down an off-ramp or to a stop light. Then one night after a 45 minute steady speed highway drive, I pushed the clutch in, shifted to neutral and let the clutch out and coasted to a stop. As the revs dropped, the engine stalled completely and the red alternator warning light came on. While still rolling on the highway, I pushed and held the start/stop button and it immediately started back up.
Over the last 6 weeks, this has become more frequently. It is now at a point where the revs will pretty much always drop below 800 rpm when I slow down and the car usually revs them back. However, I have had six more stall episodes like the one above and it is starting to scare me about driving. I find myself revving the engine when I coast in neutral to slow down to prevent this from happening. This happens either with the clutch depressed and gear engaged and slowing or clutch out and in neutral gear.
The car has never had issues. I am the sole owner. Just coming up on 30,000 miles. I currently have UM tune stage 2, EVOMS intake, APR HPFP, 42DD downpipe with stock cat-back exhaust, HPA short shifter with metal cable bushings, Stoptech Street rotors and pads, VWR springs and RSR clutch, which was installed at about 22,000 miles one year ago. Have serviced it religiously, oil changes every 5,000 miles, did the water pump recall and had no issues thus far.
I moved from high-elevation Utah to New Hampshire last summer. The tune and calibration were all done in Utah prior to the move. These symptoms/issues beginning and getting worse coincided with the cold winter and lots of snow were are having. Could that and the tune having been calibrated at another elevation have anything to do with this?
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I've got a 07 accent with 90k miles on it. It has recently started slipping some (revs high, while in gear, without accelerating, especially in 5th gear). It also can be physically hard to move the shifter into gear sometimes (with my hand).
So, does this mean I need a new clutch? Or are there other possibilities? Should I replace/fix anything with the clutch? Sounds like the flywheel should be resurfaced? Will it shift more smoothly after the fix?
Is this something a newb could do himself? I can change the oil, rotate tires. Outside of that I haven't done much. My toolset for now is fairly limited: two jackstands, a trolley jack, torque-wrench and ratchet sets.
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First it was the gas pedal then the distributer cap and then what I thought was the starter so when there's no spark going to it it wants to start up just fine the starter hits the flywheel without it slipping then when it does get spark the starter is constantly slipping and doesn't want to hit the flywheel right.
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The car is a 91 Chevy Camaro RS , 3.1 V6 and a 5 speed. Mileage is approx 400K + , the odometer has never worked since purchase and showed 239K when I purchased it approx 8 years ago.
The battery croaked due to being low on water and at the same time a stalling problem began so I wonder if the battery going bad may have contributed to the stalling issue.
The battery has been replaced with a new one but the stalling issue has not been resolved by replacing the battery.
At start up the car will idle correctly, occasionally when starting the rpm's will shoot up then slowly slow to correct idle
speed and usually continue to run.
When driving car seems fine but when the clutch is pushed in when coming to a stop at a sign, light, etc the engine rpm's begin to slow from traveling r's down to what would be normal idle speed, this is when it stalls.
If I left foot the brake and keep r's up with my right foot I can prevent the car from stalling. If I (using my foot on the gas) allow the r's to slowly come down to sitting idle speed it usually will not stall.
The cat converter was removed from the car several years back so it's not a clogged exhaust problem.
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I have a manual 98 civic with 120k miles on it that has recently developed an annoying habit of stalling. The car started fine the other morning so I backed it into the driveway to warm up, no problems there. When I went to leave for work, the car stalled and died. I got it restarted but when I tried to drive it stalled again. It happened as soon as I disengage the clutch. As I said, moving in reverse was no problem. The battery died after I attempted several times to restart it so I charged the battery overnight.
The next morning the car fired up right away with no hesitation nut as soon as I released the clutch it started sputtering so I gunned the engine to keep the RPM's up. I managed to get it into 2nd and even 3rd but as soon as I down shifted for a stop sign it died. So far I've replaced the battery and the alternator, both were on their way out anyways. Then this past weekend I got a good deal on a new fuel pressure regulator and put that on. The car started right up and ran nice and smooth. I took it out for a drive for about a half hour.
About 20 minutes into the drive I noticed that when I pressed on the gas pedal, the RPMs wouldn't move up much higher. Shortly thereafter the car started sputtering while accelerating. When I got home I turned the car off and went inside. I came out about 15 minutes later and the car wouldn't start. This has happened after every part replacement. New alternator, runs fine for 20-30 minutes,then won't start again. New battery, same thing. And tonight the gas pressure regulator. Could it be the main fuel relay, should I pull the injectors? The plugs and wires are new and the distributor is less than 2 years old and well sealed. I'm at a real loss here.
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I have a Fiat Punto mk2, and when I launch off with a couple of passengers in the car with me I hear a creaking noise coming from somewhere around the rear. I haven't heard it in any other situation, and it doesn't do it when I'm in the car alone. What this may be?
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My 75 Corolla wagon (2T-C 4 speed, rear wheel drive) has developed a terrible shimmy that can be felt in the steering wheel and shifter, as well as the whole car. It only does this when I am in 3rd or 4th gear doing between 35-45 mph. Over the past few months this has gotten worse, and instead of being an intermittent thing (once a week or so) it happens every time I am in the 35-45 mph range.
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I have a 1990 Alfa spider. It has a blip at idle. Originally it was much worse. Idle would drop to 500 then pop up to 1200 the back down, back up etc. Engine would sometimes stall while driving. This happened as I would take my foot off the gas coming to a stop. I replaced the first large air duct between the mass air flow gauge and the air intake chamber(cracked on underside). Worked but still had blip which was then unpredictable. I cleaned the air flow gauge and the constant idle actuator with air flow cleaner. This worked more but I still have the blip during engine warmup. Idles fine at start up, blips for a while, then stops bliping as engine nears running temperature. What should I do next?
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So I've been dealing with this for a little while now and it's starting to really irritate me. With my 850, when cold, it drives awesome- perfect engagement, pressure, etc. When hot, I'm noticing that even with the pedal to the floor while in gear, I might get a few 'jerks' until it frees up. Also engaging while hot (in traffic) can sometimes cause rapid 'jerks' which leads to stalling, the pedal engagement is all over the place and you really have to know how to drive the car, just to get it right.
Now I've bled the line about 4 times now in the last three years and it seems to improve slightly (maybe placebo effect), but I'm not looking into it maybe being the grease on the input shaft? I know we greased the throwout bearing and input shaft, but it was a very light coating since I was nervous about getting grease on a $2400 clutch.
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So a friend of mine recently leased a 2016 Fiat 500x and they're experiencing a problem where about once a week, they'll get a string of like 10 warning messages all in a row on the dashboard. The say something is wrong with the airbag, the power train, the electric parking brake, and too many other things to recall offhand. The thing is, nothing is actually wrong. The car works fine aside from those error messages coming up.
My friend took it into the local fiat dealership to get it looked it and they were able to pull the records of all those warning messages from the computer. They kept the car for 5 days before finally getting it back to her, but a week later she started getting the messages again. They only come up about once a week.
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i have a 1972 fiat abarth and the gas tank has the larger filler hole for the old leaded gas fille nozzles Can i buy an adaptor for the gas tank filler hole to accomodate the new skinnier gas filler nozzles?
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I put a new battery and the fuel tank is full but the car always has trouble starting. the other day i sat trying to start it, pumping the gas for 10 minutes or so. Nothing. I noticed some dripping under the car but it looked like coolant. Could this be something bigger? I have a new battery in. Do I have to go and start it every week and let it run for a few minutes? Any portable car jump start?
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I am having a problem with my 03 1.8t 5 speed! about 1 month ago i had to replace my MAP sensor cuz it took a crap! ok everything was good after that i thought! car started stalling in first gear but didn't die completely! it would jerk me forward hard but wouldn't die! after first it would be fine! took it to my buddy at the dealer and said there was a code stored that dealt with the faulty sensor but wouldn't cause it to stall and then catch! of course he drove it and it didn't do it! so he cleared the code and everything been fine until today! started doing it again! don't have a clue as to what could be causing this! It didn't do this EVER before the MAP sensor only after! my buddy said the MAP sensor wouldn't cause it to do that anyway! it feels like the motor completely freezes up then frees itself! I do have a boost gauge and I am not over boosting or under boosting! no cel or blinking cel! what could be causing this?
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I have a 06 camry as is said in the title, it has 120k miles, 20k of those are mine which i have treated it well in terms of fluids, changing oil at 2k and i changed my tranny fluid 10k ago along with the coolant. On a cold start (Its 5 degrees out for the high) it stays running but when put into drive it dies. My only idea is the transmission, because the reason i changed the tranny fluid is cause my transmission wouldn't shift into higher gears for a large bit of time i.e., getting stuck in third a lot.
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I have a 2000 v10 excursion and once in a while when I shift from park to drive it will stall and lunge forward. It will stay running if I go to neutral but as soon as it goes into drive it will stall and also reverse seems to work sooner than drive will come back I have been stalled and had to put it in reverse and pull to the shoulder.
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My car has 196,000 miles on it & recently starting loading up, stalling. May be heat related. How can I determine if it's the ECM, crank or cam position sensors? The last time it quit on me it scrolled thru "ABS out", "Trac out" & "Gear box failure". Let it sit a minute, restarted it, not a single thing shows up. I'm afraid to drive it as it appears to be getting worse. Our code reader is not giving us anything definitive to go on. Jaguar XJ8 2003....
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