F Series :: 89 F-150 Getting No Power To Tank Pumps
Aug 23, 2015
I've got an 89 F-150 dual tanks. Getting no power to tank pumps. High pressure pump runs good when key turned on. Have checked wires to fuel selector switch and no power there. Since high pressure pump is running I'm thinking there's a bad splice but how do you find where it is? On the wiring diagram it shows there's a splice (marked C277 just past inertia switch) but where is C277 located? Also, the diagram wire colors don't quite match my truck
Just FYI the wiring diagram doesn't quite match my truck. Not unusual I'm sure. The diagram says the power wire from inertia switch to high pressure pump and fuel selector switch is PK/BK (pink/black) but no pink black wire. There's a red/yellow wire that matches the size of the red one (red to fuel pump) coming off the selector switch. I'm guessing that's it.
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
Ranger wont fire! fuel pumps not pumping..... Jumped fuel pump relay and got both pumps working, but while jumping relay and cranking motor, still no fire. Plenty of fuel pressure though. got spark too. Replaced relay and no pumps working while key is turned to run or while cranking. I got to get this sweet puppy back on the tarmac...
View 7 Replies
1991 940 SE Turbo ... I am trying to figure out why there is no power to the 10 amp fuel pump fuse. Drove the car all day with no issues at all.. The next morning it just wont start. Found it wasn't getting fuel..I have replaced the tank pump thinking a shorted pump would disable the system, I have replaced the in tank Fuel Pump, Nothing. The fuel pump relay, Nothing, and pulled the under car fuel pump and checked it and its fine. I don't get it?? what could it be? I went to the library to get a copy of the wiring diagram, but the Chilton's Mechanic wiring bible was so smudged I could not even read it..
View 1 Replies
I replaced my injectors n ficm, truck runs great. Now my wipers dont work. Turn signals, hi beams work. Got power at both fuses and they have continuity but no wipers or washer pump. Looking for a diagram for this? Is the motor located under the front cowl?
View 1 Replies
I have an unusual problem with my Sonata. Every time I fill it up with gas, the pumps do not shut off properly and gas spills all over the car and ground. This has been happening for the past several months. For a while, I assumed the problem was in the pumps themselves. However, it has happened with so many different pumps that I was wondering if it might be a problem with the car. Is there a sensor or a vent or something in the gas tank that lets the pump know when it is near full? If so, how do I fix it?
View 2 Replies
Appears to me like third gear has to pump its self up to get going from the Beginning of the gear. With a steady half throttle acceleration its seems to push its self up to 25000 rmps than quickly surge back down a bit and then continue to run through the gear. I dont feel like its the turbo spooling *but very well could be* cause than i feel like i might feel it in other gears which i dont. This seems to happen in my o6 and my Mothers 08 ( B6 as well) both auto
View 7 Replies
I have a 89 F150 4x4 lariat with the 302 8cyl and dual gas tanks. I was driving to work and the truck died. I have spark and enough juice to turn it over so I must be getting no fuel. When I turn the key to the on position I do not hear the fuel pump whine as it primes, it's dead silent. I'm assuming the fuel pump is dead.
Are there any fuses to check? I did check the switch that goes off when in an impact and it was not tripped off so it's not the problem.
My hayes manual (which i find is wrong ALOT) says that 87-89 f150's have a single fuel pump that is external to the tanks and found along the left frame rail? Can anyone confirm? Someone told me they thought it might have 2 pumps but I switched tanks and the truck still didn't start (or make a fuel pump sound) so unless the planets aligned and BOTH pumps blew simultaneously I would assume there's only 1 pump.
View 14 Replies
My overflow tank seems to be going empty slowly. The last time I filled it was in March and I filled it to the Full line. Now, the overflow is almost empty. I did 425 KM last night almost non-stop and the level stayed the same since that night and today. So, I am not burning any thru the gaskets. Exhaust is not white neither.
I did see one suspect thought. I have this really small rad at the bottom of the bumper and it seems a little wet around the tubes that enter it. Could it be that? I have no spots on the driveway or road when I park. Specs of my truck:
190 000 KM.
Oil changed on Saturday.
Runs well, no loss of power.
Temps are good.
View 3 Replies
07 Prius 140k miles. Flushed brakes at 132k miles with techstream directions [URL] ...... Follow the path without actuator or master cylinder removal. Went smoothly, no funny noises or codes after.
Brakes making multiple clicking / pump type of noise within last couple of months under these situations.
1. when nearing a stop
2. crawling along slowly with brakes on
3. backing up which is like #2
Braking force is fine and linear response. Brake fluid reservoir level is good. I'm thinking flushing it again.
View 1 Replies
I filled up with gas this week on my 92 Ranger extended cab and when it got to full I noticed it was leaking down the side of the tank in-line with the filler neck. I couldn't make out exactly where it was coming from. It wasn't coming out of the filler neck I know. I noticed I had been smelling a strong gas smell but I thought it was a bad gas cap. I've never dropped a tank on any of my Rangers. I've also got a 93 and 98 regular cab but always had someone do it. I know that on my 98 the big plastic lock ring deteriorated over time and I had to have it replaced because it was leaking when I filled it up. I'm suspecting the same on this 92. I got a print out of the fuel tank and components from Ford trying to prepare myself to have everything I need if I try and drop the tank myself to check. It looks like it has one of those plastic lock rings, a filler neck grommet, and some kind of vapor grommet. It shows some kind of shield over the fuel pump assembly. Will I need anything special to remove that big plastic lock ring, the hoses, or to drop the tank? I know it's got that heat shield around it. It looks intimidating. I don't want to break anything but can't afford to keep paying all the labor to get the small problems fixed on this Ranger. The only fuel tanks I've dropped and changed were on my 65 Valiant and 73 Charger but they required no special fuel line removal tools. Is anything going to be hard removing this fuel tank? I probably will put in a new fuel pump just to, since it's running the original 22-year-old fuel pump.
View 4 Replies
Need to replace fuel pump. How do I remove seat bottoms.
View 5 Replies
How/why does fuel transfer from front tank to rear tank ? I put 6 gallons in front, drove about 5 miles, parked over night, all fuel now in rear tank which was empty.
View 5 Replies
Anyway here's the problem. My son has a 2000 Ranger 3.0L V6 he left me when he had to move back up to Las Vegas. I was out checking it out today and pulled the radiator cap, man what a mess. It looks like reddish mud in there and the overflow tank. It's not milky like oil in there it's more like mud. It's caked up on the bottom of the cap and inside the filler neck and the coolant looks the same.
So the questions are, what's the best way to clean it all out and what would cause it?
View 4 Replies
I have a 1965 Chevrolet with the original 396 engine. When I purchased the car, I noticed the fuel pump was wet with fuel at the weep holes. I replaced the pump with a new one. This pump also leaked at the weep holes. I thought dirt may have been in the fuel tank and the check valves were stuck causing the leak. I installed a glass inline fuel filter before the fuel pump and installed another new pump. There is no dirt in the filter. This pump also is leaking from the weep holes. The pump only leaks when I give it full throttle and bring the car up well over 65 mph. I would like to retain the stock type of fuel pump. I'm wondering if the pump push rod is a replacement at some time and too long.
View 4 Replies
The pumps at times will function what appears to be normal. At other times the pumps will not stop running and it is at those times when the engine does not like to run.
I do not know if the engine will not run due to too much pressure or not enough fuel pressure. The problem is with both tanks and pumps so I do not believe the problem is inside either of the tanks.
One problem is that I just got the truck and the prior owner had at times done a little work and you know how that can be a problem. He could have done some damage to some hoses or who knows what. He had replaced the radiator and the left side exhaust manifold recently, though at different times. He thinks the problem started around the time he did the radiator. I know it doesn't make sense but things can get bumped or damaged.
What would the problem be that it could come and go? I drove it for a few miles and I thought that maybe the problem had gone away after I replaced what appeared to be a short vacuum line by the throttle body. But the problem still comes and goes. Now the truck is stuck till I figure the problem out.
View 2 Replies
So i have a 2010 gti stage 2 uni, when i have a half tank of gas or less when it reaches about 4000rpm it will loose power harshly that it almost makes u eat the steering wheel, but when it has more than half a tank of gas it drives just fine. I get low pressure fuel rail code when scaned with vagcom...
View 2 Replies
Looking for instructions, How to drop the DEF tank? I've loosened a few bolts, but still can't get my hand in to thread in the nut. I've already lost one nut, gotta pick up a replacement at the store tomorrow.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2005 jetta 2.0 Once it gets under half a tank I lose power, it acts like it's running out of gas. It only does it in warmer weather (this started in march when we took it to Florida, once it got back in the cold weather it didn't do it again until 2 days ago when it was in the 70's). I took it to he mechanic I've used since I got the car (he works exclusively on vw and audis). It didn't do it to him in the two weeks he had it, he couldn't find anything wrong that would cause the issue.
He did do a complete tune up, replaced both of my fans and coolant. I ended up replacing the coolant temp sensor myself since that decided to go bad after I got it back. It lost power after getting the car back again warm weather and just under half a tank of gas. Prior to the Florida trip the water pump, timing belt and starter were replaced. I had my fuel pump replaced in 2014. It is an automatic with 157k miles on it.
View 2 Replies
Hesitation and power loss have returned. I removed all four spark plugs and found that the spark plug on the driver side of the engine, or side closest to the inverter, and its coil pack were covered in dried/sticky oil with no loose oil present around them. Pics added to new post #11 of coil pack and spark plug.
I couldn't find anything that really matched the symptoms I was having this afternoon on the way home from work. After letting the engine idle for about a minute to get through Stage 1, I pulled out of work but noticed I kept hearing a slight whining from the inverter (radio was off and windows were down) while going uphill on the road out of our parking lot. Speed was in the range of 25 to 30 MPH.
Torque showed I was pulling between 10 and 20 amps from the HV battery but what I noticed that was REALLY weird was that the timing advance gauge showed I was running around 2 to 3 degrees (?) instead of normally being around 13 or 14+ depending on how quickly I'm accelerating.
And the more acceleration I demanded, the the more amps were coming from the battery and the RPMs on the engine would go up, but the timing advance still remained below 10 degrees. I didn't hear any knocking but I could definitely feel the lack of power.
View 19 Replies
I have the dual tank setup & this is my problem.
Last year I replaced both tanks - the front was leaking bad and rear was starting to leak. After replacing both tanks, the rear tank (which I was using before) was unusable - it would idle fine and when applying throttle would stall out. The front tank's gauge did not work.
This week I pulled both tanks. Had new gauge assembly put on front pump unit. Also had the rear pump replaced with a new (rebuilt?) one. Installed both tonight. Now the front tank is running fine with a gas gauge. I Filled up the rear and once I had about 16 gallons in, fuel started leaking from the front top of the tank it looks like (where in-tank pump is). This leak has continued as the truck was turned off too. I think it may have stopped now, but its dark and I am parked on a hill. As another problem, I still have the same "stalling" problem. The rear will idle fine, but start to stall out when a load has been applied.
So to summarize:
- What is causing it to want to & stall out?
- Why am I leaking gas?
It seems to stop dripping gas after (maybe) the pressure is lower from leaking the gas out. Also, when 1st starting it up on the front tank, it wants to stall out...probably from the gas that leaked out while it was shut off? The truck will run for about 1/20th of a mile on the rear tank when initially starting it up before showing signs of stalling.
View 4 Replies
2011 F4 56.7 L diesel will not allow fuel in the tank.
View 14 Replies
