F Series :: 2008 F450 Security System Does Not Recognize Key After Battery Disconnected
Dec 21, 2013
Took my '08 F450 super duty into a reputable snow plow dealership and had them install a brand new plow on my truck. They phoned me this morning to say that the truck's security system does not recognize the key, possibly caused by the fact that they had to disconnect the battery during the plow install. So now my truck is stuck at their shop ! Just hoping I don't have to get it towed to a Ford dealership.
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My nearly new Hyundai Sante Fe sat in the garage for 18 days while I was away. On return the battery was dead. The auto assistance truck came to restart the car. His portable charger did nothing except make the emergency horn honk continuously while connected to the battery. We rolled the car back to the truck and hooked up to the big charger on-board. This, too, caused the emergency horn honking for several minutes until the key start worked. The explanation suggested was that the security system drained the battery, and that locked the security system. The dealer's maintenance supervisor said "all new cars do this" and suggested I could disconnect the battery while it is parked for a "long time" and then reconnect. Maybe, but what a hassle and what if you can't open the electronic door lock to get to the hood release, to proceed. Is this really the state of things now?
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We have a 2007 Ranger. When the temps hit 32 degrees F or below, the truck won't start. The security system light comes on. We have to run through the security system reset process, sometimes a few times, before it will start. Afraid all this key turning is going to burn out the ignition. Don't have a lot of confidence in my Ford dealer as they replaced the brakes and put the shims in wrong. Local mechanic says it's probably electrical. Is there anyway to bypass the security system or can it be removed?
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My 2008 Camry XLE(No after market systems) has locked out my dad several times now when he's parked and left the vehicle. We replaced his keyless remote dongle battery with a new one just in case. The light that blinks a red key on the dash to indicate the key is nearby turns solid red. I've yet to be the one locked out, but can't imagine what he'd do to lock it out as he's mechanically and electronically savvy. Can't reproduce the problem.
The only way we can get it to unlock the inhibitor is to jump the car battery. The dealer claims that we should only have to walk away from the vehicle out of range of the remote and back into range for the inhibitor to "untrip". I don't believe them because we replaced the car battery one time and it tripped the system and we had to get a jump even then to unlock it.
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Is there anyway to make the night mode on these Nav/Sirius radios darker?? In night and auto modes this thing is just too bright.....
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I have a 2003 chevy impala that won't start it does not recognize park or neutral but it recognizes reverse drive and 321 I'm thinking it's the safety neutral switch which I think is in the transmission. I can jump the solenoid and it will start.
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I brought my 2012 Prius in on St. Patrick's Day for routine scheduled maintenance and was informed about the recall--I hadn't even known yet. I was told it would just take an additional 45 minutes for the software update--no big deal. Except that it was.
They said the computer that was hooked up to my car crashed during the update, and my car computer would no longer recognize the hybrid system. They had no explanation for the crash and said their computer had a full battery, etc. so it didn't make sense, but they would call Toyota to find out way to do and in the meanwhile I would have a rental.
It is April 7 and I still have the rental. They said the part needed, a new computer, is on backorder. They hope it will be in by the end of April but there are no guarantees.
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Customer's car died about 2 hours from me. What this could be? It is at a shop now, and I walked them through how to test the main fusable link in the engine bay, and they said it was good. They also checked the 12v battery and that tested good. Here is what happened.
The customer was driving, then he said the triangle of the death and check engine light came on. Then, he kept driving for a little while and then all the sudden everything went dark and he coasted to the shoulder. The car hasn't had the inverter coolant pump recall done, so I am leaning towards that. The car's dome lights come on, the key can unlock and lock the car, but if you slide the key in and press the power button, nothing happens. What on earth would cause that?
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I disconnect my Avalon 2007 battery and after connect it the car won't start.
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After about 3 weeks, I finally get my 04 .:R32 back from the shop after getting a new fuel pump (long story there) and the mechanic mentioned the fans began to run and stay running when the key is turned to the on position and then turned off, key removed etc. I picked the car up tonight and repeated his claim turning the key to the on position and the fans kicked on and stayed on until the battery was disconnected. I am hoping there is an easy fix. What this could be? FCM maybe?
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I have a 2013 Elantra and had to disconnect the battery. Once the battery was reconnected, there is no sound coming from my speakers. The radio turns off/on, searches for stations, etc. Everything I have read tells me to push the reset button, which is a tiny hole on the radio face plate. I have had 4 different people look for it, and it is NOT there. Looked in the owners manual about battery change and it says to reset the radio, but the manual has no instructions on how to do this. We have pulled fuses, disconnected and reconnected the battery again but it still doesn't work. Purchased the car used and never received any information on the radio code as other forums say I need to have. 2 hours in the car in silence is not fun.
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2004 Pontiac Grand Am GT, 3.4L V6...It only starts if the battery has been disconnected for at least an hour and then is immediately reconnected prior to use. Once the block is hot, however, it starts flawlessly and repeatedly every time. When the block cools, it won't start again unless I disconnect the battery and wait an hour. I did a bunch of tests without first disconnecting the battery: The fuel bar is pressurizing properly, the crankshaft position sensor works, the ignition control module has power, the plugs and wires are in good condition and have the right resistance. The coils are fine.
I did an OBD-II scan as well, no codes. However, unless I go through the disconnect-wait-reconnect procedure, there appears to be only a weak spark. I don't think it's the ignition security feature. There's no security light, performing a security reset does not fix anything, and the car starts repeatedly and reliably as long as the block is hot. I was wondering if it might be a failing sensor that has a thermal dependence? Should I look at the powertrain control module? The ignition control module?
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I closed the trunk on my 2009 BMW 328i after I disconnected the battery. I was trying to change the battery but needed to get more supplies. So, I closed the trunk Now I can't open the trunk. The battery is in the trunk.
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I was working on the car today and had the battery disconnected. When I was driving the car a few hours later i noticed my horn stopped working. the alarm sound when the car is locked stopped working too. I was hoping it would start working again like the one-touch windows do, but they didn't.... I think I possible popped a fuse but didn't see any when i checked. I really don't want to drive 60 miles tomorrow on i95 without a horn.
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2003 Pontiac Grand Am GT, 3.4L V6...It only starts if the battery has been disconnected for at least an hour and then is immediately reconnected prior to use. Once the block is hot, however, it starts flawlessly and repeatedly every time. When the block cools, it won't start again unless I disconnect the battery and wait an hour.
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I had a burned out left low beam headlight on my 2007 Toyota Avalon XLS yesterday. I have the halogen (2006) type bulbs. Today I purchased two new low beam bulbs and installed both sides new while I was at it. I had disconnected the battery and replaced both bulbs. Now the headlights (both hi and low beam) work perfectly in the auto as well as on manual mode, however my fogs lights now don't work. The fog lights worked last night prior to replacement of the low beam bulbs. So I checked for continuity of the fuse and both fog light bulbs and all were OK.
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We disconnected our 12V battery in order to reset the check engine light (went on driving at high altitude w/ 87 octane). Locked the car, came back the requisite 20 minutes and can't open the driver's door with the physical key.
We understand it should turn a short way, then require considerable force, tho not necessarily pliers. A little nervous about using pliers to force it ... ?
We're pretty sure we tested the key when we bought our used 2008, but can't remember. Should the key be 'reversable' i.e., go in either way?
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My last business trip proved disasterous when I returned after a week to the airport to a dead battery in my E300 diesel. The car would not start with a jump so I took the battery out of the car and took it home and put a trickle charge on it. After charging, I reinstalled battery and everything seems good....except the windows roll down fine but barely roll up. You have to keep hitting the window up button for them to go. They go up about a 1/2 inch every time you hit the button but sometimes none. You just have to keep hitting button while "assisting" window to get them to close. Is this coincidence or did something happen by taking battery out of car? 1999 Mercedes E300 Turbo Diesel ....
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Is there a way to open the rear hatch if battery is disconnected either from the inside or outside? Is there a cable or something for emergency?
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I replaced a battery on a 1998 jeep grand Cherokee v6. It started and ran fine, but then in my infinite wisdom, I decided to remove the negative battery cable with the engine running to test the alternator. Some smoke started coming from the back of the engine, so I immediately killed it. It wasn't running for more than 5 seconds. When I started it again, it faltered, but the second time it started fine and ran fine, a little more smoke came out but stopped soon. it smelled like burning oil. We drove it around the block with no problems. I know it wasn't the alternator that was smoking because that's not where it was coming from, and I doubt it was the ecu because then it wouldn't run.
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Disconnected my battery for about 15 minutes to wire up HIDs. Couldn't put them in due to the nut not coming off the battery bolt. tightened battery and started car. dash has amber steering light on and traction light. when i put it in reverse (AT) it banged into gear, then put in "manual mode" trans jumped and banged into 3rd gear. also noticed 1 touch windows not working. What might have gone wrong from a simple battery disconnect. no additional wires were hooked up to the car or did i forget to reset something.
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