My supercab 2WD has about 100,000 miles on it. When I hit the brakes, the ABS kicks in at low speed (less than 10 mph) even though the tires are not slipping.
View 1 RepliesI recently changed the front pads and rotors on my 2002 Ford Ranger 2wd and I'm having some troubles now. Occasionally when I'm pulling up to stop lights toward the end of my braking i can feel them cut out and the ABS kicks on. It's a very intermittent problem, and it only happens at low speeds. When I try to induce the fault it never happens, it only seems to after an extended period of braking going less than 10 mph. I'm very confused, and I was thinking about changing out my calipers unless know what might be happening.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1997 F150, 4X4. My mechanic says its time for new brakes and was curious if it would be worth possibly converting from drum brakes to disc brakes??
My mechanic has quoted me $300 to do the rear brakes, would it be worth the extra money to convert??? I really don't care for drum brakes. I have done a search on the internet and every time it brings up the issue with the parking brake.
Odd thing on the 97' Ranger that showed up today. I was backing out of the spot at the local Shell station, (on an incline) and the pedal went to the floor. Never happened before. I pumped the brakes a few times, and they came back. On down the street, slowing for the stop sign, pedal went to the floor again.
Not throwing codes, fluid levels are good, only seems to happen at lower speeds/idle. Sometimes pumping brings the brakes back, sometimes they come back all of a sudden.
I can hear a "sucking" kind of noise coming from where the pedal connects to the booster, up under the dash. I looked at it, and nothing *appears* to be broken.
It almost feels like the pads are against the discs, and the pistons/calipers have to reach for them before the brakes apply. (If that makes any sense)
There should be about 50% of life left on the pads, but i haven't pulled the fronts wheels yet to look.
I have a 2004 F150 4x4 Fx4 supercrew with 5.4 engine and 46,000 miles. For the past three weeks now I have a periodic Grinding /scraping sound that seems to be coming from the front passenger's side of the truck. It can come on with light driving and braking in town or start while driving 70 mph down the interstate without even touching my brakes. The thing is I just about always have to come to a complete stop to make it go away. 10 Minutes later it comes again. It's loud enough for everyone around me to start staring at my truck. Sounds like metal scraping concrete and gets deeper as I slow down and when I fully press my brake pedal it goes "curchunk and the sound is gone for a while. I thought maybe my caliper was sticking or maybe the truck is trying to go into 4x4. One friend even suggested me to check the dust cover behind the brake for rocks.
View 12 RepliesI have an occasional issue when pressing the gas pedal while stopped or at low speed the car hesitates and slightly kicks. It doesn't seem to happen at high speeds. The auto mechanic I took it to said he is getting a read that it might be the thermostat. My temperature gauge has not moved above normal. The auto guy says they need to start with the thermostat and see where we are with the problem at hand afterward. This does not make sense to me. Maybe the electronic read is right and the thermostat needs replacing, but how can this affect my occasional hesitation problem?
View 12 RepliesWhen I turn the control to heat the AC compressor kicks in. If turned to vent it does not kick in. Was this just a design flaw.
View 3 RepliesTwo weeks ago my front left wheel would start shaking like hell when I brake, not at first but after say may eight miles of driving. I have never been in a vehicle shaking so violently and after proceeding from a stop it would continue until it cooled down. I tore out the caliper and made sure everything was clean and lubed and also to make sure I did not put the pads on wrong. Fast forward one commute and the same crap. I could not go faster than 45 mph without feeling like it was going to disintegrate.
When I got home the damn thing was smoking. I managed to get it to the dealership this afternoon and two hours later the guy told me that the guides just needed some cleaning and grease. They did not want to charge me anything (draw your own conclusion) for it. I was told they drove it up/down hills and it was alright. I left kind of suspicious and four miles later the problem revealed itself again. My next thought it maybe axle end play, bad bearings or joints? Intermittent why? 2004 f150 lariat 4x4 ....
I recently bought a beater '89 F-150 (I-6, MT) with the following problems:
1) Both rear brakes seem to stick on occasion--almost like there was a "check valve" on the rear brake line. When that happens, there is a "BRAKE" and "Rear ABS" light (although the light does occasionally come on without brakes sticking noticeably).
What I noticed in Haynes is that the "RABS I" system functions in the following way: a) Upon noticing rear axle spinning slower than front axle, it actuates a valve, isolating the rear brakes b) If the problem persists, it then dumps the pressure back into the main system.
So, I wonder: Is this an ABS system acting up? If I were to (temporarily) de-power the ABS setup, would it default to "no ABS," or would I need to remove the hydraulic valves from the brake lines? (Don't really want to if I don't have to.)
2) You can select either fuel tank, get that tank's level to indicate on the fuel gauge...yet it only "draws" from the front tank.
Again, Haynes says there is a low pressure pump in each tank, feeding a high-pressure pump in essentially a small "header" tank. The "dual-function reservior" has a wholly mechanical selector, and notes that "Tank switching versus gauge conflicts can occur under certain failure mode conditions."
So: I can understand that the mechanical selector can, in effect, "stick" on one tank. But what I don't understand is how it can still draw from the front tank, with the "rear" tank selected (and presumably, that tank's low-pressure pump trying to feed the header tank.)
Is it possible that the low pressure pump--while beneficial to prevent gravitation at the main pump--isn't strictly necessary to fuel the engine? Or do I have a problem with a low pressure pump that's "always on," regardless of the selected tank?
What would cause the rear drum brakes to lock up upon hard braking? I have replaced the wheel cylinders, installed new spring kit, and adjusters.
View 9 RepliesI just replaced the front break pads. I didn't replace the rotors or get them machined, didn't look like they needed them. Once I pushed on the brakes (truck off) I noticed that brake fluid spilled out the brake reservoir. I'm guessing it happened when I compressed the piston into the caliper? I took some of the fluid out of the reservoir and now its at MAX (I didn't bleed them). I've only been only be able to stop and go on the driveway (I'm waiting on a new radius arm bracket). The brakes seems spongy, the brake hits the floor. ABS and Brake lights came on then turned off once I started to pump them when I turned the truck 'on'. Do I just need to actually drive and "break" the breaks in?
View 2 RepliesBought my Prius about 14 months second hand . Despite 112 checks or whatever, within a few months the brakes were grinding. I took it to a local garage and they said the pads were worn to near nothing and replaced them all. They said I had scoring on the rear brake discs, so I replaced them too.
I got really back noise with the front brakes every time I used them after a few weeks. Took it back. Was told that the front discs needed replaced (and off course the front pads again). It was soon back to noisy and they replaced the front pads for nothing. The problem went away for a few days, then returned, but only a very low speed braking (or when putting the final squeeze.)
That garage tried a few things, then said it was my heaving braking glazing the pads, so they roughed them up. Problem hadn't gone. Add to this that the non-moving parts are really rusty looking, it looks naff.
Well, I took it to Kwik Fit having had some time to save some money for a proper fix. They would be happy to replace all discs and pads, but it'd cost abit. Called Toyota, they cost about the same. I left my car with Toyota yesterday pointing out the problem and a few other things I wanted fixing. I made it clear I felt the brake discs and pads were 'crap' and not Toyota and wanted them replaced. They said they'd inspect and do what was necessary.
Well, I've new windscreen wipers, they sorted out a separate problem and cleaned out the front brakes. According to Toyota there is nothing to stop those parts of the brake disc that aren't moving from rusting. They also said the discs and front pads were fine. Well, that squeaky noise is still there.
Why, after practically begging, did they not just replace everything? Is there any other possible explanation for the low braking speed squeak? Why don't brake discs not come with those parts not in contact with the brake pads painted so they won't rust?
I have a 2008 T Spirit 3 with 100k on the clock which runs perfectly fine apart from one niggly issue.
Sometimes when I brake and the speed is below 7mph it feels like the brakes have failed momentarily and the vsc light will flash and then the brakes will clamp on again.
It happens at least 20% of the time when I brake. Why this is?
I have a 2004 Ranger 4x4, 4.0, auto and have trouble with the back brakes howling, locking up and generally driving me nuts. I've replaced the drums, shoes, cylinders, emergency brake cables and all the hardware. We've bled all 4 numerous times, blown out the lines, looked for leaks and done all we can think of. What am I missing?
View 1 RepliesI have replaced a bad module in the HV battery and balanced it. Inverter coolant pump has been checked and inverter coolant has been replaced. Engine coolant has been drained and refilled. (Both coolant jobs followed Haynes manual guide including bleeder valves.) Transaxle fluid is full.
After each step of troubleshooting I have done a test-drive. Warnings come on consistently within 2-2.5 miles, day or night. I do not have a scan tool, but I do have the trouble codes from Toyota (all prior to my repairs). Is it possible that a bad ECT sensor could trigger all of this?? Is there something else I can check?
Here we go again. shut my 87 F150 5.0 off when I got to work when it was time to leave no spark from the coil, same as 3 weeks ago. First thing I did was pull the new dist and replace it nothing, so I pulled out the new coil still nothing, its getting power to the coil so I would assume the relay is good .
View 4 RepliesWhat does it take to pull the oil pan on a '97 F150 w/ 4.6L and 4R70W? I checked into Auto Zone's repair support and it states to just unbolt it from the block and remove it. I looked under the truck and it doesn't appear that there is sufficient clearance to remove the pan without raising the engine/trans.
View 2 RepliesI'm loving this 'new' 2004 prius with 177k miles on it that i just bought. In New England winters I'm still getting 40-45 mpg and I'm not even trying to get great MPG's.
1.) Wind noise : My biggest disappointment is excessive wind noise over 55 mph. I 'm using this car as a taxi and its so loud inside I'm a little embarrassed with customers in the car. It sounds to me that its coming from the passenger window or passenger side near the windshield, but I can not identify its location at all. I've always been the one driving when looking for it though.
I called a dealer that sells lots of gen II used prius's and he says its fairly common to replace the window seals? The car has a clean car fax.
2.) Mild clunk when the engine kicks on. Not all the time, but sometimes : Other thing is, I can sometimes feel and hear a mild clunk when the engine kicks on. I also feel a little bit if vibration when the engine is on and i'm idling (it was 16 degrees last night so the engine stays on for heat). The oil level is good. I'm due for change in the next 500 miles.
Is this anything I should be concerned about? I'm sure I'm just overly sensitive.
I noticed that I have an unusual "rumble" noise coming from the location of my ac blower motor when it kicks in full blast. When the air temp comes down a bit and the AC slows down or if I switch the ac off full blast under climate control, the noise goes away. I have never noticed this before and am wondering if it is my ac blower motor starting to fail.
View 3 RepliesMy dad has a 2008 F150 with just over 36K on the clock, and wouldn't you know it the ABS light came on. He's been a Ford guy all his life and excellent with a wrench, but has never worked on an ABS problem. BTW, this is the first problem he's had on his last 2 F150's.
I know we'll need to plug it up to a scanner. My question is can we plug up to the OBDII port or is there another ABS port we need to plug into, and will a regular scanner work, or do we need a special scanner?
02-F150-4.2L-102k. Truck was rolling down the road at approx. 35 to 40 mph. A speed bump/table appeared out of nowhere and was hit before beeing seen. Immediately since this event, the truck pulls to the left while applying the brakes. It pulls very hard and is fine while rolling down the road. Is there some damaged steering component or did one of the calipers go out from the jolt?
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