1999 ford f350 diesel. Have burnt up 2 starters and 2 solenoids. Truck tries to start itself if you do not disconnect batteries. The last time it did it it also burnt up window control switch. Keys don't even have to be in it. Where to start to find a short???
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 F-350, 7.3 that is not charging. It has no power coming in on the big supply lead on the back of the alt. I traced the cable back, and it goes to intake heater solenoid. Cable is good, but intake and glow plug solenoids both have no power coming to them. I am guessing there is an open circuit between solenoids and starter. My question is, does the power come right from the starter, and is there circuit protection in there someplace?
View 2 Replies1995 Ford F350 4x4, 7.3 Liter Diesel, A/T, A/C
The brake pedal gradually sinks to the floor while the truck is running while stepping/holding down the brake pedal, then the red brake light comes on in the instrument cluster. When the trucks engine is not running I could pump the pedal to clear the vacuum booster and hold the brake pedal, it stays steady.
So far I have replaced the vacuum pump and brake booster. I also readjusted the rear brakes. The truck stops fine, but the sinking brake pedal just doesn't sound safe.
Friend brought me his 2001 F250 SD 7.3 to see if I can figure out what is wrong with it. He has had it to several shops to no avail. It started with lights coming on and off periodically and ended with starters burning up on a regular basis. 3 or 4 by now. It will roll over on it's own and do all kinds of crazy stuff. Shops have pretty much stuck with swapping starters and solenoids but I don't think that is it. I have pulled the main fuse block under the hood and it is clean, next the one under the dash.
I can't see moisture in the GEM but there was moisture on the outside of the box. The GEM looks OK but that doesn't really mean anything. I put a Ford scanner on it (AutoEnguity type) and it scanned and brought uo several GEM failures but not sure if that is from hooking and unhooking stuff. I have had to keep bat cables unhooked as I am afraid it will burn up when no one around. When I scanned I had to hook up batteries and when I turned on the ignition it went crazy with flashing lights and relays clicking from behind the dash. I cleared the codes and it stopped. GEM? Can GEM's be tested? I know they can be re programmed so why not tested?
Truck started to feel like it was missing here and there. A couple rough starts in the morning and a very potent exhaust smell at startup. Then finally after a couple days of this, it wouldn't start.
At first it would try to turn over and almost did several times, then it degraded to just churning and churning with no close attempts to turning over. No codes thrown when we hooked up the code reader. I've had the IPR go out on me twice, the churning and churning is how it acted when the IPR(s) had gone out.
Towed it home and pulled the IPR, everything looked in order with it. Changed the upper fuel filter and oil/filter in an attempt to rule out the easy stuff. Tried to start it up last night after doing this and it churned and churned for awhile (about 2 minutes), then it almost turned over several times. By this time the batteries were too low to continue. Hooked up the code reader again and still no codes.
I'm planning on charging the batteries and replacing the lower fuel filter today, but not feeling real optimistic that it will do the trick. Any other issues to check for?
Starting one time in January, the SUV would have all ACC power but failed in every attempt to crank or turn. Nothing happened whatsoever when the key turned. No dim in the lights, the battery was fine. After about 30 minutes it started right up.
The issue started again this week, occurring twice. Both times while the vehicle had been sitting for more than 4 hours. I'm unsure what the issue is. I took it to Autozone to have them try and diagnose it to no avail.
i have a f350 superduty with a 7.3 turbo diesel and I pretty much hafta keep it plugged in to get it to start, i have installed all new glow plugs and both relays have been changed and the problem is still there, only other option i have not tried yet was changing the pcm controller but unsure if that is the problem ..
View 14 RepliesI have a 2012 Ford F350 SRW 4x4 Diesel. Love the truck and has been great. I have 20" Tires and the ride on this truck is really rough. I know its now a Cadillac but to change tires or suspension components to get a smoother ride. I was thinking about going to 18" rims and getting a big all terrain tire. Maybe taking a leaf spring off in the rear. Going to air suspension. Different tires maybe. I dont need the load rating since i sold my fifth wheel.
View 13 Replies2015 F-350 diesel purchased Sept 2104. When towing my 16,000 lb 5th wheel the 6 to 5 downshift seems to have gotten much harsher in the last few months. About 10,000 miles on the truck, much of it towing. Is this an indication of a developing problem?
View 1 RepliesSo, I'm tired of this crap power steering. Since I just blew up my lpop on my 6 blow, apparently a thing with manual trans, replaced and she runs fine, I decided it is time to fix the screwed up worthless sloppy steering, and almost lack of any power steering at stop or slow drive. Picked up a rebuilt pump., and took out my old box with 220k.
I almost bought a cardone box, but frankly my input shaft had less play than 2 I ordered in. The only problem with my box is it has a tiny amount of play on the sectorshaft which translates to a lot of slop.
I've been looking into hydraulic ram assist steering, as I run 6" lift with 37s on a crew cab long bed. The thing has sucked at life since I bought it with wider 35s a few years back.
Is hydraulic assist worth it and if I go drop 500 on a redhead box, between this and the ram, am i going to be looking at decent steering on road in the future? I have no plans to offroad this boat anchor of a truck. I have a nice fun light 2 door turbo montero for that.
Do I do it, or just stick with a rebuilt box and pump?
We just bought and '05 F350 Turbo Diesel, about two days after getting it the check engine light came on. We had the dealer check it since the mechanic wasn't in and it came up as "Fuel Level Sensor" . My husband can't remember the exact code. We have been told it's no big deal but we want it fixed and the engine light to go off. The dealer is giving us the runaround, or at least I think so.
View 14 RepliesMy 2001 F350 7.3 dually diesel Automatic has been a pretty good truck but recently it has been dying. Engine just randomly shuts off without warning while Driving. Check engine light comes on sometimes. Some of the time it will restart if I cycle the key. Once its running again I can rev the engine up without a sputter but after a few hundred yards down the road it will die again. I noticed driving on the highway when it does it my truck will buck first, then...
If I leave it in drive with the key in the run position when it dies and I'm coasting down the highway the Tach starts jumping around like its trying to restart itself, all on its own. I don't have a scanner.
The last time it died I coasted into my driveway and it wouldn't restart, went back out there 30 minutes later and it fired right up. Its only 40 degrees here if that matters, not hot by any means.
1999 F-150 4.6 4R70W transmission 148,000 miles. My transmission was slipping so I changed fluid and filter. I believe the transmission fluid was changed one other time (I did not find the yellow plug in the pan). Transmission fluid smelled burnt. Added new fluid and Lucas treatment. Turned truck on and the battery light came on. Brief test drive and no change in transmission until almost home and then it would not go into gear. Lights were dim power windows wouldn't work. Reverse works. I assume it is time for a new transmission and the electrical issue is related to the transmission. I use the truck a lot and am leaning towards getting it fixed. I can't swap out transmission myself and would have to take it to a garage.
View 3 Replies01 Superduty headlight burnt out. Its a sealed beam, haven't changed one of those for years. Most are bulbs.
Anyway I took all the screws I could see from around the headlight door and underneath it.
Headlights still in there as solid as when I started. What screws I seem to be missing?
Last week I noticed my fogs stopped working. So I figured there may be a chance that they were burnt out. Hooked them straight to a battery and they work. Next I checked power at the plugs and no power. Checked the fuse and blown. The only fuse I had on me was a 25 amp fuse. Big mistake. Smoke started coming from the fuse box (palm to the forehead). Well it didn't blow the fuse but still nothing. I got power at the headlight switch and started tracing wires. From what I had read there is relay but it is inside the fuse box? Is this correct. I'm trying to pin point where the problem lies. There aren't any burnt up wires behind the fuse box and now I'm at a loss.
View 7 RepliesSo this morning I started my truck to move it out of the driveway and it sounded funny almost like I was running a ship vac under the hood. I moved it and shut it off and when I shut the truck off it sounded like screeching tires. I thought it was weird but chalked it up to it being cold. When I came home I started the truck again and I got the same vacuum noise. I figured I would let it run some since it was pretty cold out. All of a sudden I heard the noise stop so I went out and all I smelled was a burning smell but the truck was idling fine and running nice and quiet like it usually does. So I shut the truck off and then it wouldn't start again. So I tried to jump it still wouldn't start would barely try to crank. I crawled under smacked the starter a few times jumped it again and it started. I left it running for 20 mins after that no noise sounded fine. Any thoughts on what this could be?
View 13 RepliesI have a 2001 F-250 7.3 diesel with an automatic trans. Over the last couple of months it has stalled 3-4 times while driving, always when slowing down but even at speeds of 15 mph or so. I did find a burnt vacuum line the other day. It comes out of some type of relay box located behind the battery and in front of the starter solenoid relay and is mounted on the fender. It has an electrical plug in the top and two vacuum lines at the bottom. I am hoping this is the cause of the truck dropping off of the idle circuit? But I don't know what the unit is so I cannot order the correct replacement lines.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2000 Golf GLS which I tried to replace the shifter solenoids on and since I replaced them it shifts very very incorrectly it almost feels as if it starts in 4th gear and works its way to 1st.
View 2 RepliesI'm having some electrical issues with my 04 jetta and have no idea what is wrong. This came up recently after changing the solenoids in my 09A tranny (side note: tranny works now ).
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I would like the hear what others have to say about the problems I'm having with my 2006 F-350 sd xlt 6.0 with 113,000 miles on it. It's being used as a tool truck mostly going from a shop on the property to close by buildings on the same property. In other words very short distances. Used occasionally to take a dump trailer to a close by dumping ground.
1. White smoke from exhaust. I've read this is most likely an ERG cooler that needs replacing. Any other possible causes? If I end up having to replace the cooler is there a stock cooler that is reliable or should I get the one by bullet proof?
2. Diesel is dripping from the muffler weep hole. Last full tank lasted only 60 miles. Could this be the oil cooler? Anything else? If so is the Ford replacement cooler OK or should I go with an upgraded cooler?
I have a 2011 F350 diesel 6.7l. I have had this smell outside the front of the vehicle for months and so I took it finally to a dealer to solve the leak problem. They spent hours on it and eventually found a leak in a tube at the rear of the engine under the intake manifold and supposedly solved my problem. That was 2 weeks ago and I have driven about 300km.(180 miles) but the smell is still noticeable. How long should I wait before it goes away or should I return it to the dealer for further work?
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