F Series :: 1987 - Rear Antilock Light Coming On And Off Repeatedly
Apr 16, 2005
My 87 F-150 rear antilock light was coming on and off every now and again, but now it is on all the time... What it could be.
View 4 RepliesMy 87 F-150 rear antilock light was coming on and off every now and again, but now it is on all the time... What it could be.
View 4 RepliesHow/why does fuel transfer from front tank to rear tank ? I put 6 gallons in front, drove about 5 miles, parked over night, all fuel now in rear tank which was empty.
View 5 RepliesSince Sept, my check engine light has come on a total of 6 times. Every time, I bring it into the dealership to get it fixed. The first time, they told me it was a loose gas cap. The next couple times they said that different codes were coming up, and they continually fix something (they've changed the sensor in the gas tank, changed the filter in the front and the back of the car), but nothing seems to do the trick. This last time, I got the car back right before Halloween, and the light came on. What the problem could be?
View 9 RepliesSon has a 1987 ford ranger 2.9 engine 5 speed 4x4 truck. See anti freeze leaking @ the rear of the engine where the intake attaches to the block. How long to re & re the intake, ect. Is it just gaskets or what? Is it a big job?
View 9 RepliesMy dash light fuse blew. I checked with a meter and I have a short to ground somewhere in the wiring for the lights. Everything else seems to be working fine.
Is there a copy of the wiring diagram somewhere?
I have the big ford shop manual but I't doesn't have any diagrams. (might be missing pages, I got it off Ebay and the index is missing T-Z).
I have the Haynes but it doesn't have the diagram for the dash lights.
Last week my ABS warning light came on. I took it to a mechanic (who I trust but is not a Prius-specific mechanic) who said warnings are coming up for the anti-lock accumulator and hydro boost motor. However, in July 2011 I had these both replaced. The work was done by a Toyota dealership. I ended up taking my car back 4 times after this work was completed as it kept having braking issues. They replaced the shim kit and bled the brakes. And eventually they replaced the master cylinder (this they did under warranty bc there was no way I was paying them any more money). At no point did they seem to understand what they were doing. (Along the way they broke my windshield and killed my battery.)
Finally by November 2011 my car was driving normal again. And then the warning light and high-pitched alarm went off again last week. I talked to Toyota Corporate who suggested I call the dealer to do the work since technically the accumulator and motor just ran out of their one year warranty. But this is the same dealer that didn't seem to know what they were doing last year.
My ABS light resets itself when I leave the truck, but when I go down the road later, after a few miles it lights up until I turn the engine off again. It's a 2008 Lariat Super Crew 60 K miles. I've searched and seen only a few posts related to the ABS. One item I've seen mentioned is a sensor on the rear differential. What other parts are in the ABS system that may cause a light to come on. How to troubleshoot the system would be great, too.
View 1 RepliesOK, so I've been getting the "Tyre Pressure Monitoring System Fault" warning message repeatedly for some time now. I had the "G" code TPMS control module installed last week (under extended warranty) thinking that that should fix the fault. However, the fault continues.
Do this fault might be due to dead or dying batteries in the TPMS wheel units (not covered under extended warranty)? If not, what else could it be?
I have a 2010 Kia Forte, which I purchased in late 2011. I had not had the car for very long when I noticed that the left, rear taillight was out. My husband replaced the bulb and it still did not work. This led me to the fuse panel. The fuse was blown so not only the taillight was out, but also the front, left, parking light. I replaced the fuse and the lights came back on. However, within days, the lights were out again. I have replaced the fuse two or three times since then, but each time it blows again within days, so mostly, I am driving around without a tail light. What could be causing the fuse to blow repeatedly?
View 8 RepliesWhich transmission came with the 1987 Ranger 2.9L?
View 4 RepliesDid I get bent over? had a banging noise coming from the rear and took it to my regular shop, they told me the leaf spring shackle and hanger brackets were almost rusted thru and one more pothole and I'd be all over the road, so they ground out the rivets and replaced said brackets. I don't have the equipment to do that kind of work but I still feel it was a little high.
View 1 RepliesI have an 87 v6 ranger with 5 speed that has been sitting for several years. The truck only has 48000 miles on it. The gas tank has been cleaned out and both fuel pumps have been replaced. The injectors were pulled and cleaned...
It will start up and run for about 5 minutes and then will shut off. It will not start after that until the next day and then does the same thing. It starts up and runs then shuts off and can't get it to start again. Could it be some kind of circuit breaker tripping or maybe the ecm. If it is the ecm how do you test it...
I have a friend who drives a 1987 ranger 2.3 4 cyl and is having problems with oil building up in his air cleaner. I thought maybe it was a bad pcv valve or worn out rings. I looked at it and cannot even find a pcv valve on it. it has one hose that runs from the valve cover to the air clean but there' s no valve in it. are the rings shot or what is causing this to happen?
View 6 RepliesStill cant seem to fix this 87 ranger 2.9... NEW fuel reg, fuel press reg, rebuilt computer.cold it will start and run fine.then it will shut down with in 5 to 18 miles then you cant hear the front or rear pumps at all!. Let it sit over night and your off again.. Can't get any codes.. Can a pump over heat and shut both off??
View 14 Repliesso I have a 1987 2.9L Ranger that likes to stall out when its idling after reaching temperature. Ive replaced all sorts of sensors (IAC, Coolant Temp, and PCV) and so far no luck. I was trying to figure out what the relearn procedure was for the IAC or get an input on any other possible sources of error. I haven't changed TPS yet.
What the engine does is when it gets up to temp, the engine will start to loose speed, and will start to shutter. Then it'll kick back up run fine for a few seconds and drop again, it'll do this for a few minutes then completely just choke out.
1987 ranger 2.9l... My truck had no power while accelerating. We'll I changed fuel pump and filter. And still no power. I bought a computer and it tells me the map sensor is not at normal vaccum levels. The ego sensor is reading always rich. Egr valve not opening. Knock sensor was was going crazy. And computer couldn't raise engine speed above normal idle. Could all this be because of one sensor or should I just change it all.
View 7 RepliesMy Ranger has 296,000 miles on it. Most everything has been replaced except the u-joints. It's a 2wd 2.5L with an automatic. The motor was replaced at 228,000 with a used motor with 52,000 miles. The transmission has about 60,000 miles on it. All the bearings in the rear end were replaced about 20,000 miles ago. It has the most annoying whistling noise coming from the rear only sometimes. I don't know if it's the brakes being misadjusted or a bearing with a burr in it. It happens at random times but it's such a high pitched whistling you know everyone on the road can hear it too. There is also a driveline vibration, very minor though when over 60. However, I've had the drums checked and even had the wheels balanced many times. My friend said the ujoint grease could be dried up, but the whistling noise only happens at random, the virbation is anytime you're at highway speeds. It's not a violent vibration just enough to tell that it's not a brand new truck anymore. What it could be?
View 2 Replies1987, 2.9 ... I got all my wiring repaired and replaced both the intank pump and the high pressure pump, for a few days it would fire right up as soon as you hit the key but it had a miss (the pumps shut off after a second or two with the key on "RUN"). I tore the throttle body off and cleaned all the carbon out of it, when I put the throttle body back on I noticed that the engine to body ground was loose so I ran a new piece of 4ga from the intake manifold bolt to one of the master cylinder bolts.
After I did this I went to start the truck and no go, the fuel pump turns on with the key but then it wont shut back off until you turn the key off. if you try and start the truck it will crank but wont fire, after about a half hour of cycling the key and cranking it will start to put a little bit then a few tries later it will start but sounds rough when it first fires. I thought it may be a stuck injector so I ran some cleaner through the Schrader valve on the rail. Still have nothing, both pumps do run but still don't shut off after a few seconds like they should and now it wont even try to start.
Recently, today in my 87 Ranger suddenly the engine dies and all electronics in the cab fail.
I noticed under the hood that the fusible link connected to the battery and an orange and black wire was smoking. Tracing this line i found that it leads to the ignition switch, as well as some other places.
There is another fusible link and the junction between the yellow ignition wire and the orange and black wire from the battery. This fusible link also was failed.
I'm planning on replacing the fusible links tomorrow but in case that does not fix it, where to look next.
The problem only occurs when the key is in the ON position. I'm thinking maybe I could do some tests with a multimeter on the ignition switch but am not sure of the details of what I should test for.
Summary: Fusible Links C, and E burn out when the ignition is in the ON position.
I just bought a 87 Ford Ranger 2.9L v6 4x4. It has a tick to it. It doesn't stop, it doesn't increase with acceleration it stays the same. I sprayed some SeaFoam in it and It improved the performance a lot (More horsepower, better reaction to the pedal.) But it is still knocking. I have never tore apart an engine before or messed with lifters or anything. I'm not completely sure how to fix it. I know knocking is not a good thing either.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1987 ford ranger 4x4 2.9l v6 but my transmission slips out of gear and its auto im not sure why but ive been told im missing a over drive gear is this a possibility or what???
View 1 Replies