F Series :: 1983 F150 Truck Won't Start - Battery Cables And Solenoid Very Hot
Aug 5, 2013
I have an 1983 F150 on a little island, so I have to be the mechanic. Yesterday the truck started then stalled and wouldn't start. I opened the hood and the battery cables, the fender mounted solenoid and the cable from the solenoid to the starter were too hot to touch. The battery was dead in about five minutes. I didn't have time to charge the battery, had to get back to the mainland. I bought a new solenoid and a new ignition switch today but where the problem might lie. I won't be able to get back to the truck until the weekend.
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If the Prius 12 volt battery (the one that is like all other car batteries, not the hybrid battery) goes out, can you use jumper cables to start it like any other car?
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I have a 1998 Ford F-150. It has an issue with starting sometimes. The truck won't start with a fully charged battery but when I hook it up to a charger, the truck starts normally. It was going to get the wheels aligned today and when the mechanic went to drive it off the ramp, it wouldn't start. I told him to put a charger on the battery and it started right up. Without the charger it just cranked over and wouldn't start. It doesn't do this every time I go to start it only occasionally. The mechanic had no idea what the problem was and has never heard of this kind of situation. I'm assuming it is an electrical problem but I'm not an expert with engines. The battery was fully charged at the shop and the battery is a year old.
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I had my battery out for quite some time. When I put in a brand new battery my key was not recognized and my truck will not start.
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I have to fix the truck. Battery is pretty new, replaced solenoid next to battery this morning. Truck still won't start, just clicking away. Decided I needed to replace the starter, put the truck on jacks and went to the starter. At the starter solenoid there is a red cable attached, and a "loose" red wire, with a connector on the end. It would appear the connector just needs to be reconnected to the solenoid. But it won't "connect". Am I missing something? Should it not connect to the prong on the solenoid? Should I just replace the starter, and forget about the wire? I do have Chiltons for our truck, but it doesn't show a picture of the prong on the starter solenoid.
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My brothers 2002 F150 4.6l has a starting problem of when he shuts it off it will be hard to start sometimes. If he lets it sit for a while it will start right up. I did a search a looks like the fuel pump modules are subject in these trucks. The search also have them mounted on a cross member by the spare tire, this truck does not. My question is where is the fuel module located on the truck?
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I have a 1996 Ford Ranger XLT Automatic with a 4.0... A few months ago I went to start it and it would not start. All the lights were on and working, the radio worked etc. I figured it was the fender solenoid so I replaced it. Didn't fix it. I jumped the solenoid and it spun up. The only way I can start the truck is by turning the key to on, and jumping the solenoid. I replaced the ignition switch that is under the instrument panel, and the ignition cylinder that the key goes in to. I have reason to think that it may be the neutral safety switch, but I do not want to go out and buy the part and it not be the issue.
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Today I acquired a 1982 F150 with a 302 engine, 4 brl. Edelbrock carb. The truck starts and idles just fine, but when I come to a stop, try to give it gas to go it dies. It starts right back up, and I have to rev it high a couple of times then put it in gear and it will finally go. When I got it home I let it idle a few minutes and tried playing with the air and fuel mix but don't know what I'm doing, really. It seems I can hear a hiss, and when I was reaching for the air/fuel screws I got a little shock on the hand from the distributor. We want to use this truck as a farm truck, and plan to get a manual for it, but what might I might check for the cause of it stalling.
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I recently bought my grandfather's old F-150, its a 1983 model with the 351w and the 7200VV carb. I replaced the distributor cap & rotor, plugs, wires, and fluids. The truck idles just fine in park/neutral, but when I shift it into reverse or drive, it stalls out. There is a valve of some kind attached to the carburetor, and it opens and closes rapidly as the truck dies (in time with its sputtering) so I think it may be the cause of the problem. I have not been able to find much info on that carburetor, but I think that valve is a fuel temperature system that meters the amount of fuel going to the carb depending on is temp. Can I replace that part without having to replace the whole carburetor?
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I bought an '01 prius with more than 160,000 miles last year , until now it's been a great car , averaging 46-ish mpg , now , a couple days ago I used it to jump-start a diesel truck connecting the cables directly to the auxiliary battery , the truck started after a 2 or 3 mins, the next day the known red triangle and the red car with the (!) appeared , the dealer reads code p3009 (hv leak) but were not able to give me any subcodes. Is it possible that the computer interpreted the sudden "pull" of current from the converter (via the 12v battery) as a hv leak ?
I got the reading of the 19 modules of the traction battery and all are within 0.5 volts of each other , so I hope they are all within tolerance , and the car seems to run just fine.
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I'm pretty new to working on cars let alone a diesel truck, so this could well be something simple and / or dumb. Hopefully it is.
Batteries recently replaced. Started cleaning terminals on driver side and realized I needed a couple of fasteners. Between getting them, the weather going bad and getting sick that battery was unconnected for several days, truck not driven.
Finished cleaning the terminals this afternoon, went to connect the positive cables and they're sparking. Driver side negative cable is unattached. Neither of the two positive cables sparks when touching positive battery post alone. They only spark when they are brought together.
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What gauge wires the battery cables are on these trucks? Son in law has some really corroded cables on the Excursion. I was going to pick up some welding cable and replace them, but a quick glance looks like different sizes for different cables.
Looking for a list of gauge and length for each one to save me a little time?
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After truck gets warm it won't restart.
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Mechanics cannot find out why it occasionally does not start and has to be jumped off. If left not driven for a day walk out next morning try to start and it has to be jumped off. It only has 8,000 miles on it. 2013 Ford F150
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I left the keys in the ignition last night. I didn't think it was left on, but apparently it was. This morning when I tried to crank the truck, it wouldn't start. The dash lights came on, but it didn't make any sound. I tried to jump it off, and it still won't turn over. What it could be??
The truck that wouldn't start was a 97 Ford F150, the car I was trying to jump it with was a 96 Honda Civic. Someone told me that might be the problem, that the small car wouldn't give enough power to a truck...
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I have a Ford F150 Triton Super cab that once and a while it will not start after a heavy rain. When I turn the key it sounds like I am not getting a spark or gas. Besides that everything comes on normal.
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On my 2002 7.3 liter for the last about 1 week it has been getting harder and harder to start. Up until yesterday when it will not start at all. What it does is this. A week ago I noticed it cranked slightly weaker but still ran perfect once started. This has progressed slowly but definitely. It has never gotten better, only worse. Even with jumper cables hooked up it does not improve at all. The starter is a Carquest POS but only has 50 thousand miles on it.
I have driven hundreds of miles with this problem in the last week and the truck has never skipped a beat aside from the starting issue. I took the batteries in to no less than 3 places and they all said the batteries are good. However when I put my multimeter on them when it is being cranked the volts drop from 12.6is down to about 8 volts. When I did get it started the other day and put a meter on it the batteries were charging up to around 13.7 or so.
When there is no load on batteries they show good but have been unable to get a solid answer if any of these places are load testing them: I am convinced they are not. I checked the resistance of the cables and they all have none. The grounds are all good. So I pulled the starter and took it in as a last result. They say the starter is good also! The connections were all tight and I cleaned them all very well.
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Recently my 2001 F150 4x4 5.4 truck has been misbehaving by being difficult to start at random times. The engine will turn over with however will not fire. After some time, I am able to get it to fire. When this happens the truck start normally for the rest of the day and maybe several days. Around the same time, error codes for a variety of sensors would occur. This problem was traced to a broken PCM connection. When this problem does materialize, no error codes are generated. After some time in repair shop, a probable cause could not be found.
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I purchased a 2000 7.3 dually 4x4 and the driver side battery is missing with the cables snipped.
I noticed the headlights do not function, neither do the brights, the air does not blow. Is this related to the missing battery? Someone said they are on same circuit and dont do separate tasks.
Still starts runs drives fine...
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My 85 f150 5L is parked to far in into my alley.. the last time i saw my keys i moved it up to water the plants that it was tucked almost on top of.
ive been looking for the keys for 2 months.. the truck isnt being driven at all but i think my neighbors are getting mad at it being out so far.
I can get in the engine bay, and i have jumped the starter on our big trucks at work before.. but what wires do i have to join to put the ignition into the run position?
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My truck is a 1990 Ford F150. It seems like when I let it sit for a few min that the gas just drains back into the tank and there for it wont start up that fast, it takes a while to get it going but when I shut it off and start it back up its like a new truck. It starts right up!!! Any tips on what might be wrong, maybe the gas cap is letting pressure out? Im 17 and my dad knows alot about trucks but he cant tell whats wrong.
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