I have a 98 Ford Explorer 4.0 v6 My temperature gauge is stuck in the middle whether the car is off/idling/driving. I am wondering whether this could possibly be an issue with my coolant temp sensor/sender, or wiring.. Or since its just stuck there, would it be the gears of the actual gauge..
View 1 RepliesMy temperature gauge on my car sometimes ill notice is being a little over the middle and sometimes till be a little under the middle is this normal for it to do that or should it stay in the middle ?
View 2 RepliesI have an 02 F250 V10. Ive always wondered about the transmission gauge. It seems to always point to the middle of the gauge range. This weekend I was pulling my car hauler up and over the Ozark mountains, and when I stopped for fuel I noticed the transmission was vomiting fluid underneath the truck (and on my exhaust creating a nice smoke bomb for everyone around me). The gauge indicated normal temps. It kind of gave me a sick feeling. I have ordered the 6.0 Trans cooler from Rock Auto and a new temperature sending unit. Do the trans temp gauge is supposed to move or is it pretty much useless?
View 14 RepliesI have a 1997 Ford Explorer with 5.0, I have replaced the thermostat and the radiator cap, I drive the truck to work in the mornings (12miles) and it is fine. We live on a mountain and on the way home after getting to the top of the mountain the temperature gauge goes past middle and nears the red but does not overheat completely. Once home I open the hood and the overflow is steaming or sometimes boiling, and I have checked thermostat again to make sure and it is operating normal, I have been told fan clutch, water pump, and I don't want to just throw money at guesses.
View 1 RepliesI have an '04 Nissan Sentra. I know there is a problem with my fuel pump, which can delay the start on my car, but that is not my real problem. My problem is I have no heat. My car starts fine and never moves above or below the middle on the temperature gauge, but it almost never warms up. The only time it seems to is if I am going over 55 mph and that is only the first time I go over that speed. Once I slow down it stops working and does not come back. The air blows out, but the air is colder than my A/C. I have looked at the coolant and that seems to be fine, so I am not sure where to look next.
View 9 RepliesNormally, the temp gauge in my 4-cylinder 1993 Dodge Caravan stays a half-division below the middle, once it warms up.
Recently, though, it sometimes goes all the way to hot and then back down to the middle, taking maybe 5 seconds to go up and then 5 seconds to go back down. This seems to mostly happen after the car has been sitting for a long time (like a week), and when it happens, it only happens once, usually around the time the engine gets warmed up.
I also noticed this weekend that it would frequently go up a division or so and then go back down again, again, taking maybe 5 seconds. It happened maybe 10 times in a 50-mile trip, often (but not always) when going uphill.
I've checked the coolant level -- the reservoir is close to max. I also checked that there isn't an air bubble by loosening the radiator cap.
What this is? Thermostat? Fan (or fan relay)? Water pump? Faulty temperature sensor? I don't know enough about how the cooling system works to hazard a guess.
I started my car and noticed that something under the hood was very loud. It sounded as if there was a large fan left on high and I was right. The passenger side radiator fan doesn't come on. The drivers side does though and yet there is no overheating! Ive taken short 15 mile trips here and there but the temperature gauge stays right in the middle. If i give this radiator fan motor a good whack with a screw driver, it comes right on. What it could be? Does it need a motor replacement? Could it actually be the relay if when I give it a whack, it comes on?
View 5 RepliesWe have replaced the sensor twice now and it still pegs on high. Sometimes when we just start up the car, other times after we are driving.
View 5 RepliesI have noticed when I turn the key on the needle moves down just a touch but goes back to full. I have disconnected the wiring harness for the fuel tank and reconnected it. I have tried tracing the harness back towards the front but no luck yet. I'm guessing it's a bad ground or something. And if so what was the solution.
View 5 RepliesFor reasons I can't figure, the Temp gauge on the wife's Explorer is shooting from normal to high in just seconds. Then, it drops back to normal. When I looked at it this afternoon, I noted 2 things.
1) There was no sign of a coolant leak or overheating.
2) There wasn't ANY coolant in the tank!!!!!!!
The truck has evidently been running fine while this is going on.
I did an engine swap for a junkyard motor my 4.0 ohv had a very bad rod bearing so I got one from the junkyard with 117,000,or so they say.Anyhow, after its all said and done it runs perfect except the temperature gauge seems to not get as high up on the gauge as before after sufficient driving(it used to run about middle of the gauge) it drops low at idle then goes up and stays up then goes down.it still has good heat, doesn't seem as good as before tho.I changed the thermostat also.
View 8 Replies2002 ford sport trac.I have been having an ongoing issue that started with the engine cranking but would not turn over until an hour passed. After replacing multiple parts (cam shaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, ignition pack) I am now down to poor fuel economy as the last of the issues (roughly 12 in the city and 15 highway). I was told the issue may be the engine coolant temperature sensor going bad so I decided to replace it. I found this was very difficult due to it being a plug and locking pin design and in a very tight spot in the engine.
I tried to purchase a replacement and the parts store kept trying to insist on selling me a part with threading. I finally found someone that figured out the issue and found the part for the 2001 sport trac had the same plug style with clip that did fit but was shaped a little different on the sensor end which I assume was due to being aftermarket. I noticed that there were two plugs side by side and the one easiest to access was on the left and I was told the one on the right was the sensor that gave the temperature reading to the gauge.
After installing the engine coolant temperature sensor I found the temperature gauge on the dash now will not respond and is sitting below the cold end of the gauge completely off. Is it possible this is because the part was for a 2001? Is the sensor on the left (passenger side) the engine coolant sensor?I would hate to put the old sensor back in just to test if that's the issue due how difficult it was to put that locking pin back on. What to check that could resolve the gauge issue before pulling this sensor back out?
I'm having a problem with my 92 crown vic overheating the radiator and thermostat have been replaced, the temp gauge never goes near the hot range but the engine gets so hot it shuts down while I'm driving. I am a rural mail carrier so I use the car for about 5 hours a day, I have to stop and let the engine cool by opening the hood for about a half hour after driving for 1 1/2 hours. I am not losing any coolant and the fan appears to be working.
View 11 Replies2.5 months ago I had a coolant flush in my 2007 explorer Eddie Bauer. The last 3 days last week the temp gauge went from the middle where it usually sits, to maxed out in the red. Stays there for about 45 secs and then drops back down.
Is it coincidence that I had a flush and maybe they didn't fill it all the way back up or is it somthing else ?
One other thing- even when it sits in the middle of the gauge I can sometimes hear the engine sucking in air like a vacuum so I guess at certain times its running hot but just doesn't raise the gauge just yet.
Temperature gauge stuck past hot since my engine overheated once due to a broken water pump belt...
How can I fix a stuck coolant temperature gauge?
Its on a 1998 Mercury Mystique.
On my 97 X SOHC, I have a temp gauge that is rather erratic. It reads high even with the engine off and cold and rises when the engine is running to the point the "Check gauges" light illuminates. Then bounces to normal then back near red line. This cycle continues.
To evaluate this, I bought a scan tool and the ECT reads as expected, around ambient to start, gradual climb till the thermostat opens, then hovers there while the radiator does its thing. Heater works as expected. So I'm fairly confident that my X doesn't have a cooling issue.
What my questions are: Can I disconnect the temp sender so I'm not watching the gauge bounce around and then the Check Gauges light is available for other issues that arise?
Does the check gauge light also send a signal back to the PCM?
Can I do any damage to the truck or will the PCM throttle the power back and flash the Check Engine light if a real cooling issue materializes?
I have a 2002 Kia Sedona mini van and last night while driving home the light that for the gas gauge and temp gauge went out, the other dash lights are still working. How difficult is it to replace a dash board light and how do you find out how to get to this light bulb?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2003 gti 1.8t motor with 80,000 miles on it. I have been experiencing the temp gauge spiking to 260 when driving around and any time over 50mph. The car is not over heating and I just replaced the temp sensor and it did not solve the problem. The check engine code was something like coolant temp sensor low input i cleared the code after changing the sensor and has not come back on.
View 2 RepliesI had to have my transmission replaced after i lent my car to my dad who then hit a massive pothole and destroyed my transmission along with tire and rim. Got my car back and while driving home, I noticed my temperature gauge didn't move. Got home, parked the car and let it run and no movement from the gauge at all. Unfortunately, I retrieved my car shortly before the shop closed so I can't call them until tomorrow but what this could possibly be?
View 2 RepliesI have a 95 s10 4.3L V6 auto with 92k miles.
This all started when one day on my way to work the temp gauge got to 260 then quickly fell. It has not gotten that hot since then.
When I start the truck cold and start driving, the gauge climbs to about 215-230 within 10 minutes of driving. Once the gauge hits what ever is the magic mark for the day it quickly falls (10 seconds or less) to about 170-180. Sometimes it will "cycle" up again to 200 or so then fall back to 170-180. Once it is done moving around it stays low and will not move much as I am driving.
I bought an IR thermometer and measured the temperature at various points in the cooling system. The top of the thermostat housing is about 195 or 200 right after it climbs and drops. If I drive for a while around town then check it, the housing reads hotter, about 220 max.
There does not seem to be enough temperature drop across the radiator, I have measured about 15 degrees difference max between the hoses and on some days only 10 degrees difference.
I have replaced the fan clutch (was bad or going bad), the thermostat, and the radiator cap.
After none of this fixed it, I took it to a mechanic who did a "block test" at my request and said it was fine. He thought what it was doing, climbing and falling was normal.
If I run it without the radiator cap on I do not see much if any flow when I look down into the radiator.
Right now I am thinking of doing the water pump and flushing the radiator this weekend.
02 6.8 4x4 excursion. When I start the truck cold, the trans temp gauge immediately moves to "running" temp. Not really sure how this happens, I'd figure that if the xducer was trash it would ride all the way high or all the way low. What's happening here? I'd sure like a functional gauge...
View 6 Replies