I just replaced the cv joint, the wheel bearings, and the tie rod end on my passenger front side hoping this would fix the problem. It fixed some of the issues but while driving straight when I go over bumps there is a muffled knocking sound coming from that area and my steering becomes loose and jerky. I'm just learning how to work on my cars on my own.
View 4 RepliesSo I know the 2013 GS (or many GS in general) have had complaints of squeaks and rattles. My GS has a couple but are very minor and only occasional.
I do have one noise that seems unusual though. When I am driving and drive over moderate bumps in the road, I hear a muffled clunk or thunk type of noise only from the rear passenger area and never anywhere else.
My car is a stock CPO 2013 F sport and not lowered or anything. Stock rims and tires. The shock does not seem to be leaking.
The noise happens regardless of if I am in regular or sport+ modes. Was going to mention it to the dealer at my next oil change and door trim replacement appointment I need to make Ina couple months.
I noticed a knocking sound from my 1996 Plymouth Neon when I hit some bumps. Poked my head underneath and see what appears to be the strut loose inside the spring. I am afraid that the "Damper Shaft Nut" came undone somehow? If so, how do I remove the quick-strut? Is the spring in danger of being sprung?
View 7 RepliesProblem on early 2001 Sport Trac 4X4. I don't have the whining but a clunk when I go over bumps. I jacked up the left side and I can pull the rear wheel in and out maybe a 1/32 and I hear the clunk so I'm sure the loose rear end is the problem. How do I go about fixing it? New/used rear end? Mine is a 2001 (drum rear brakes)...
View 3 RepliesI recently did a brake job on an 02 Explorer, consisted of new pads and rotors (Rear). The Slide pins were fine and the piston was not frozen in the calipers.
Shortly after the Explorer will occasionally make this "thump...thump....thump..." feeling/sound.
It is not vibration.... it feels more like passing over small bumps in the road.
It is most consistent from 30-50mph, but I have felt it from 20-65.
It is more prominent on decel, but you can feel it on accel as well.
It makes no difference if you touch the brakes or not, or if you push the clutch in and/or take it out of gear.
Speed does not seem to effect the timing of the "thumps" it appears to be the same from 20-60mph. I'm at a loss...
I have a 2000 Explorer with the 4.0 OHV. 104,000 miles. Has always ran great. The last few days it has had a sputtering almost knocking sound that gets worse when put into gear or the ac turned on. I changed the oil and checked all fluids. Looks good. Only thing I had done was fill it up this past monday after a storm. My mother in law told me afterwards that the particular station always has complaints after rain and has leaks in their tanks. I'm assuming I may have gotten water into the system. Would this cause these problems? And is it ok to drive it out or should it be flushed. I've added a can of Iso Heat and am now down to 1/4 tank. I had planned on getting a little lower on fuel and filling up with Premium. I've never had a problem like this before so not really sure the best way to track the problem or fix it. Or it may be something else all together.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 F150, 5.4L. What I have is a "muffled" sound (for the lack of better terms) from the engine when driving. Also it seems to be "starved" or lacking some power.
View 3 RepliesI was pulling our 14k fiver home after a weekend at the lake and I heard a muffled pop sound. About a minute prior I had checked the gauges and everything was normal. It honestly sounded like a chinabomb tire on the ttrailer had popped. Puled over and all tires were good so I popped the hood .....
Here's the bottom half. Is this possibly a warranty item? 2011 with 61k. And no mods. Plus a lot of oil on everything is that normal?
I just bought a used 2013 accent gls with 22k miles.
While the sound from the front is sort of OK, the sound from both of the rear door speakers is very low and muffled.
I have to set the fader control almost all the way to the back to hear them, and then the sound is very weak all around with no treble.
There is also almost no bass whatsoever from any of the speakers. I know what to expect from a lower end factory system and have heard other hyundais that sound pretty good. I have tried setting the bass control all the way up (and down) and tried changing the "P-bass" settings but nothing works.
Is this normal for this car? I have not listened to any other accent stereos. I really like everything else about this car besides the stereo so far.
I have A 2001 Santa Fe. The check engine light came on about 3 weeks ago and the car was still running fine up until the last few days it felt a little sluggish. Today I got a little muffled backfire noise. It was like a putting noise if I pushed on the gas to hard to speed up. The car has 95,000 miles on it.The car starts up with no problems and doesn't stall. Its A 6 cylinder All wheel drive vehicle.
View 10 RepliesMy 2004 Santy 3.5L (I am the original owner) just turned 91.4K miles and all of a sudden a VERY LOUD Engine Knocking sound came from the top of the engine. I have been changing my own oil since new with synthetic Mobil 1 and a new filter every time, and I never had any issues. I changed it last week at 90K prior a Spring Break trip (1350 miles).
Then yesterday after I let her rest for 1 day, I took the kids to school and within 10 miles of my house the ticking HARD loud noise started happening. I pulled over near a shop (within 1 block of where the noise started) and they said...don't drive it it sounds like a lifter collapsed, or a rod bearing or something big...
I had her towed to the dealer and the first thing they told me is to gather all the oil change receipts and a "manifesto" and they asked me how often I change the oil... I said every 5K miles. I change my own oil and have done since day 1.
BTW, Timing Belt, Water Pump, tensioners, belts, coolant, spark plugs and coils were changed last year at 77K miles.
The car should still be covered under the 10year/100K Powertrain and I believe they are trying to build a case so Hyundai can cover this or not...
They still need to tell me what's wrong... I change my own oil so I don't have receipts for "oil changes" and I have a log of when oil was changed...
After 10-15 minutes of driving my car tonight I noticed a knocking sound and maybe a sort of whining sound that corresponded in speed/pitch to the RPMs. No warning lights, codes, temperature gauge ok, performance was fine.
I looked under the hood and I'm pretty sure it's coming from the left side of the engine (where all of the belts are). I didn't have time to isolate it further.
After 2 hours I started it up again and the noise was gone. As I drove I listened closely and after about 10 minutes I started hearing it again. It was quieter than before, but I assume it would have continued to get louder had I not arrived at home and turned off the car.
I am experiencing issues with front shocks RS2 Coilovers. I have this knock occurring from both front shocks. If they're set the softest, they're the worst...knocking noises over all small sharp bumps or sharp dips in the road. If I set them to full stiff and you drive it immediately after the ride is stiffer, but smoother, almost no noise at all, only when driving over roads that throw weight from side to side quickly will create the knock, but very light. However after a while of driving it just starts to make noise again as if they're unwinding on there own. When I check their position, they're where I left them. It feels as if the shock pressure bleeds until I perform the same routine and it feels tight again for a short period.
Its starting to annoy me now, car has 6000km on it and 600 km on the coilovers.
I've just installed new shocks on my 1997 Suburban K1500 4WD. Now there's a knock that appears to come from the driver's side. The knock seems to be as the wheels descend while crossing rolling bumps rather than abrupt jolts; for example; pot holes or running over reflectors embedded in the road don't cause the knocking.
Here's what I've checked: balljoints, inner and outer tie rods, idler arms are OK; brake calipers secure; 4WD is fine; steering shaft is OK (don't feel the knock in steering wheel); can't find anything loose.
Before I actually open the steering column and start looking. The problem is when I am going over bumps, once in a while my wipers will turn on on there own. Would this be the relay or the switch it self? Once in a while when I turn on the left turn signal, it freezes and I need to turn it off then back on and I have a small amount of smoke (burnt wire smell) that comes out the hazard button (its the only area it can), so I'm thinking it might be the switch itself. This is on a 2000 explorer xls.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 Explorer XLT Sport 4x4 w/ 118k miles. I am having front end noise when I go over speed bumps, driveway aprons, etc.
I already replaced the Struts/Coils, and ball joints, the sway bar end links are newer. The noise is almost like a noise an old spring mattress would make.
What could the issue be?
At highway speeds above 60 mph on a smooth road, the vehicle runs fine. But if the road has any bumps at all, even small ones, it starts to vibrate very fast as long as there are bumps. The steering wheel almost becomes a blur. It's like it's going into oscillation.
The wheels have been balanced and rotated. The movement the steering wheel is not side to side, like I have experienced with imbalanced wheels.
The shocks look fine and I am told that they are OK by the tire dealer . I have never had this kind of a problem with bad shocks. The vibration is just too rapid.
Before I take the truck in for the mechanic to inspect it, I would like to know what the problem might be.
I would describe the noise as a low rattle/knocking when i hit bumps(or the second after). i thought it might be my spare tire knocking around in its trunk well under the carpet. I actually removed it and drove around to check, but it was not the issue. I had a mechanic look at wheels/suspension because of this noise, he told me the rear passenger side sway bar link needed to be replaced. I personally ended up doing the work and replaced the right and left rear sway bar links however the noise persists.
while the rear was jacked up i tried wobbling the wheels with my hands to check for play but found nothing in any direction. The mechanic seemed to think everything else looked ok.
I only notice it at low speeds like driving around a neighborhood. The big bumps it either isnt happening or the noise is drowned out by the general sound of hitting larger bumps. But over mildly bump sections such as a bad asphalt patch chop it can be very noticeable.
Its not very consistent, its hard to predict when ill hear it and its almost like its during when my suspension settles after hitting the bump that its heard.
I have a 2009 Toyota Camry. I started hearing this knocking noise(really loud pop) from the rear. I have read the TSB's about a knocking noise coming from the "Spring Bumper" from the strut assembly and they are all facing the correct way. And there was also a TSB for a knocking noise from the "Roof Structure." The dampening bonds come apart and makes a knocking noise. I've replaced a strut mount in the right rear and that did not fix the problem.
View 4 RepliesI know this has been talked about. Knocking in rear right area, when driving over bumps and holes.
Read its sway and struts. As of 2010 Hyundai had no recall or solution to issue.
Will this correct the noise. When I push the rear up and down I get no noise.
2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS
I bought an 02 Explorer Sport 2wd back in December of '12. The vehicle actually runs pretty well. The thing I first noticed was the rear suspension seems to slam when going over bumps of almost any size or at any speed. Like if there's a sub-level manhole or something that just the passenger rear tire goes over it makes this terrible slam and sometimes shimmies (Spell check) to the sides like Inam losing control. I thought I would go ahead and change the shocks, did not make one bit of difference. I have looked up diagrams on the rear sus and everything seems to be there. Here's a picture just to kind of show what I have going on.
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