My daughters 2000 explorer has a PO172 code, tune it up,Replaced filters plugs & wires and rear O2 sensors that were damaged. Has 65 psi on fuel rail. Can not find any vacuum leaks. Not sure maybe injectors are dirty.
Also I replaced MAF, now it idles, But it's a rough Idle,Gets worse in gear. She say's on cold start up she can smell a whiff of gas ..
My cousin's B5 wagon automatic 1.8T ('00) was shaking and vibrating intermittently. I took it down to Autozone and borrowed an OBD2 scanner. This is what it said (only one code, and the CL was off, although it comes on intermittently):
P0741 - Torque Converter Performance or Stuck Off
I threw a code and I have it but I am unsure what to do.
The code is P0353
"Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit"
I saw that this might be the coil, the wiring or the ground? I had my coils go on my 1.8t Jetta and that was pretty distinct as the car ran like crap.
The car seems to run fine, I have had the code for 2 days. It went off this morning and it came on again this afternoon.
I have a 2006 prius whose check engine light just came on 1 hour ago. I had it diagnosed and it is giving me the p1121 code, or the coolant flow control valve. I checked the coolant level and it was very low. I added fluid, but the CEL is still on. I have to make an 11 hour trip tomorrow.
View 19 RepliesI took my 2006 in for its 50,000 mile oil change today, and I was told I had the following codes related to the transmission and the park/neutral switch:
P0852 (System: Hybrid Control; shown as "hist," presumably historical)
C2315 (System: Transmission Control; shown as "curr," presumably current)
My car is running fine, and none of the dashboard lights have indicated any problem.
So I bought a used 2005 Prius back in August it had 88,000 miles on it and was out of warranty. But I had a full inspection on it and the car was in great shape. Well, after a few months of driving, I got the P0420 error. I took it into my mechanic who cleared the code and told me to call him if it came back on. It came back on, then I cleared it myself, and it came back on again. So it was confirmed that I had a bad catalytic converter.
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My Toyota Corolla 2000, 123,000 miles, Mass license plate, still getting 34 miles per gallon, has had check engine light on and off for a year.Failed inspection this June.
First garage in Somerville, without doing more than getting the three readings above, said catalytic converter was needed $350 plus labor.I was unable to do the work then and returned to NYC and job. Took to another mechanic recently to get fixed (as I wasn't returning to Mass for a while)and got only PO 171. I mentioned the other readings; they kind of scoffed it off.Trying to save me money (I guess), they cleaned the MAF filter and fuel ejectors for $200. Looked like it was fixed. A week later check engine light came on again and when I brought in found the PO 420 reading. They did not tell me if other computer read-outs were coming up as well.
Now they want to leave the oxygen sensor in front but change the one behind. Put in a newcatalytic converter $539 {they had quoted me $238 but it wasn't an OEM one I guess and they said they wouldn't warranty anything but this expensive one), charge me$137 for the oxygen sensor190 laborplus taxfor a total of a whooping $946!
I am afraid they will do this very expensive job and the check engine light will come on and htey will say o its something else.how can i be sure? also I was reading for a catalytic converter to go bad, something has caused it...what would that be? how to find out. Do they need to do the diagnosis with gas analyzer etc?
Why I spend a huge amount for an old car that is running well, not losing gas mileage, but perhaps is a bit slower on power.
I have a 2008 Sports Trac, with a 4.0 SOHC engine ... 165k miles. Last week my check engine (CE) light came on and the code is P0401 ... too little flow on the EGR system. I first tried cleaning the existing valve - but CE light still came on. So I replaced the old EGR valve, cleaned the SS tube from the exhaust manifold back to the EGR valve and the CE light is still on. I have not driven the truck since I replaced with the new valve ... only fired her up in the garage. Is this something that could possibly clear up given a couple of miles?
View 6 RepliesI have a 97 Ford Explorer and the air bag indicator started to flash a code 45. What is this code and what do I need to do to clear this problem?
View 5 RepliesPulled into my driveway one night and a get a AFS failure.
Lights work, everything functions correctly, except my headlights don't level. I've seen some threads refer to it as the "dance".
I have the light out warning on the dash and every time i start my car it says "AFS FAILURE" or something across those lines.
I replaced my headlight level sensor and made sure the level sensor is pointing the correct way (toward the driver side) and that didn't fix it.
My car is lowered, but this issue didn't happen until recently. I do also have Euro Headlights, these were installed months ago. Way before this issue came up aswell.
1993 ford explorer sport... I got an error code for a low voltage MAF sensor. how would i go about fixing it? Do i need to get a new MAF sensor?
View 1 RepliesI just pulled error code B1944 from my 96 Explorer. It says
Crash sensor ground
Ckt 1, High res/open
I found the airbag diagnostic module (in passenger cowl area) and checked for loosed wire, nothing found. Where the loose ground wire is located? I checked under the seat (didn't do a through job, but looked).
I have a '97 XLT, 5.0 and the error code for the O2 sensors has popped up, when checking it shows there isn't voltage for the heater circuits. I see there are 3 different heater circuits, 1ea for the left & right O2 sensors and a common one for the catalytic converter O2 sensors, so I ordered another PCM.
View 14 RepliesThe other day, my Explorer gave a hard jerk while changing into 2 (maybe 3rd?) gear. Never happened before. I was under 20 MPH & had just stared it. (My speedometer works as do all the dials.) My Check Engine light came on & when I had the code pulled it read quote "P0715."Transmission Speed Sensor circuit condition. Vehicle speed above 15 MPH while transmission output shaft speed below 60 RPM. Possible cause Failed transmission speed sensor or electrical problem"
I got a Transmission Speed Sensor, (which I haven't put in yet), and was told that this would solve the problem. My question is twofold: Is there ANY chance this is a false or misread code and the problem is something else? And could ANOTHER sensor attached to the transmission be the cause? (How many sensors are on the tranny?) All I've read about this problem, say's replacing the Transmission Speed Sensor is preceded by the SPEEDOMETER quitting, but mine works fine.
The truck is a 1997 Explorer 4x4, but I don't use 4x4. In fact I've driven it without the forward drive shaft ever since I had the BW4405 Transfer Case replaced.
So of course it has to happen 3 weeks after my warranty expires. My CEL comes on and I have it read and the result is P0440. I find out that my wife has a habit of topping off the gas tank and so I am thinking that she has probably ruined the charcoal canister. It is something easy to replace?
I have an 06 limited edition... Yes, she will not be topping off any gas tank anymore.
Check engine light is on... Then about 2 mins into driving Emissions Workshop comes across the dash.. i Ran the code it says
P1176 Oxygen sensor correction limit attained (bank 1)
What exactly does that mean in other words. also what is bank 1? im not sure what oxygen sensor it is out of the 4 of them.
i have a 2000 30v 4motion.
2001 1.5L 5-speed Accent
I did a search on this problem and found several people posted the same P0121 code. Strangely many people wrote that replacing TPS did NOT fix it. The code came back in 30 miles or so. Most of them didn't follow up what finally fixed it and only 2 people did by saying they got the code cleared by fixing/replacing:
1. Leak in the intake manifold, bad plug wires, etc.
2. New Head & ECM.
Is there any known fix for the P0121 on Accent 1.5L other than above?
I drive hyundai accent 1.5l sohc.. Recently i was on my bots on turbo project.. The process when smoothly until i suddenly realized that my car was only move on 3rd gear.. then i took off my turbo out afraid of over boosting and straight go for diagnostic.. And error p0755 comes out.. So how to troubleshoot this problem..
View 9 RepliesThat Car Grand AM 2000 2.4L SE
The current problem with the car is that it is not accelerating fast, for example i would push the petal to the metal and only go 25 mph and my RPM would be 3000-4000. Initial my brother and cousin though it was the Catalytic converter because it was getting hot but that has recently been change along with the fuel filter and spark plugs. but the catalytic converter is still gets red hot so i forbid myself from driving it till i fix what every causing the slow acceleration and the temperature of the Cata when i took the error code think P0300 random misfire to the local Autozone they printed me a long list of things that could be a issue my question is what is the likely culprit so i can fix those 1st before shelling out cash to rebuild a engine. may just have to get rid of it at that point. so i guess what am asking is a list maybe top 10 so i can fix them one by one as my money comes in.
Before the accelerating issue the car would randomly stop when i slowed down or stooped that when i replace the spark plugs.
This began as a troubleshooting exercise for a P0442 code (2002 model) indicating a leak in the evap emissions system. Often caused by simple things like a loose/poorly sealing filler cap. Not this time
It's a neat design, tucked away up in the fender well. Even sports a very effective stone guard (plastic shield) which hides all that tubing from view. But the shield also traps all the road salt and mud and packs it into the crevices between the tubes where it stays from one winter till the next. Even a powerful car wash probably can't dislodge the caked on mess once solidified.
I inherited this car from my grandmother when she passed. It has low miles, around 40k. Since I paid zero for it, I would like to keep it. Historically I have done all my repairs, but never trans work.
Here are the symptoms. The car has issues shifting into higher gears. I have to punch the gas and then it will switch gears. It then began to do this for reverse, and now now reverse does not work at all.
At first I thought it was a speed sensor problem, but when I took it in to be read, it came up with P0734. It could be electrical (Speed sensor?), low fluid (it's not low), or 4th gear.
Is this transmission worth me fixing or paying to have it repaired, or should I move on?
P.S. If I drop the pan and find shavings, I understand that to point to 4th gear and bearing (also what the computer code read as the issue). Do shavings mean it definitely is 4th/bearing, or could it be another blown part?