Explorer :: 2000 OHV 4.0 Engine Turns Over But Never Catches When Cold Outside
Jan 6, 2012
My wife's 2000 explorer with the ohv 4.0 has trouble starting when cold outside. No problem in summer. The engine turns over but never catches. Eventually, after 5-10 min, it will catch. Sometimes we have to trun the key all the way off, not just acc, to make it start. Had battery checked, and was on the "low" end for cold cranking amps, but the engine doesn't lag like a dead battery would. Last winter we replaced a gasket on the upper part of the engine thinking that it wasn't flexible enough when cold outside and was getting the air/fuel mixture wrong. No check engine light. I think that covers everything.
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I bought a remfg denso starter for my 2000 toyota tacoma prerunner 3.4L V6. I spent hours without success trying to get the old starter out. Brought it to a shop and had the new one installed. When I do a cold start, there is a screech at the end when the engine catches that sounds exactly like starting a car that is already running. This happens on cold starts only. Warm starts work fine. Due to the fact that I bought this part separate, having to pay to have a new one installed again is annoying to say the least. I spent another 4 hours today trying to get it out without success. See YouTube link for video of the noise. It's actually the quietest one yet.
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I have a 2000 Explorer W/4.0 SOHC engine. With summer nearly over and fall on the way, I need to figure out what is going on with my engine. This problem has been going on for the past 2 years. As the outdoor temperatures get cooler, the harder it is to start and keep the engine running. This starts happening around 65 ambient temperature, and gets worse as the temps drop. By 30, I can barely keep the engine running.
Odd thing is, all I have to do if the engine starts is, keep my foot on the pedal to keep the engine around 2000RPM, put it in gear and start driving. After about a mile or two, the engine runs normally, and will do so the rest of the day. So far I have cleaned the air flow sensor, replaced the IAC, replaced all the injector "O" rings, and cussed a lot. I smoke tested the engine and the only vacuum leak is a very small one at the EGR valve.
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My son had the starter replaced on his 97 Eclipse a couple of months ago and ever since then it seems to be more difficult to start if it has been sitting for a few hours or more. It cranks for 5 or 10 seconds before it catches. If the car is warm or has only sat for an hour or two it starts fine. The battery has been tested and is fine. The fuel filter was replaced about 30k miles ago. He also thinks he has one injector that is performing below par. It idles a tad rough. A friend said to clean or change the air filter and change the fuel filter. He had injector cleaner put in it the other day but that has not solved the starting issue at all yet. Don't know if the injector issue is causing the poor starting or not.
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So my wife drove her car all day yesterday, everything fine. This morning went to start and it wouldn't. It turns over fine just not firing.
Now during the summer I had replace the fuel pump/filter before discovering that was not the issue.
I know you are already thinking CPS!.. I replaced that over the summer.
I have not checked the spark yet, kinda hard to do that one by yourself.
Beyond spark I am not sure what else could be wrong, especially because it was running fine last night. Is it common for accents to have issues in 20 degree weather?
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2000 Explorer with the 4.0 SOHC.
It starts fine under all conditions but when cold, like in the 30s or lower, it doesn't want to remain idling, yet no CEL comes on. New fuel pump. The throttle body is cleaned, as are the injectors. It runs super once it gets past the cold startup issue.
I was thinking a sensor is getting weak but not weak enough to set the CEL.
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my audi tt 2003 convertible turbo has had trouble starting. the engine turns over just fine and up untill now it has caught, albeit a little slow. now I note that it still catches, about every 3rd try, but unlike before it isn't staying on no matter how much I try to rev the engine. We just had the spark plugs and 2 coils replaced. There's a coolant leak through the sensor housing (we have the part for that but hubby doesn't want to fix it) but we do keep coolant at sufficient levels. problem seems to get worse on colder mornings, but is not affected by cold in the evening. Yes, the check engine light is on. The codes have been read and it's coming up as the temp sensor (which part we purchased, but hubby doesn't want to install).
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2001 F350 7.3L with 140K. Have had it for 7 years and this has never happened. I let the engine warm up (I'm in Cheyoming and it gets cold!). I'll have warm air coming out at all settings (foot, dash, combo, etc) for a few minutes, then the air turns cold!
I've checked the actuator and blend door and they seem to be working properly. The heater hoses going into the firewall are not particularly hot/warm. Is there a valve or thermostat that could be shutting water off to the heater core? Cause that's what it seems is happening. Like starting off in the shower with warm water . . . then someone gradually turns it to cold. Then next time I get in, warm air to cold again!
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I have been picking at an engine vibration for more than a year.
I have a '00 Explorer 302 V8 installed in an '82 Volvo. This engine/transmission has not been abused and only has 15k miles since it left the Ford factory. It was found intact on a pallet in dry storage. Everything was there as from Ford from the fan to the transmission output bushing. There is an engine vibration beginning about 2000 rpm in PARK so the problem is not in the transmission or drive shaft.
Perfectly smooth at idle and until you approach the start of the vibration.
Replaced the viscous clutch mechanical fan with duel electric so it isn't an out of balance fan.
Pulled the serpentine belt this afternoon and still have the vibration. Might have been a little less and I did find a idler pulley that had a little rattle but the big vibration is still there with only the harmonic balancer through torque converter rotating.
Replaced the pulley. Nothing else changed from when Ford built it.
No OBD codes.
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Passat B6, 2009 TDI CR, 140 bhp, DSG.
Having an issue that's bugging me. all cold starts are fine. However, if I drive a short distance then try to restart the engine cranks, sounds like it catches but stalls.
It takes 2-4 retries to get it going, i'm not releasing the key too early as this happens even when I hold the key in.
I've not been able to get a VAG-COM on it yet but would like to know whether this is likely to be something simple or, if it's time to sell the car?
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The Subaru as 260k miles on it and I live in Georgia. When I attempt to start the car, it turns over and sounds like the engine catches and then dies out without getting over 200 rpms or so. Its a manual and I made sure the floor mat isn't impeding the clutchsensor.
The car has been doing this the past three days and finally today after driving around for a few hours and multiple times shutting the engine off with at least two start attempts before it fires, I get home and shut off the car.
I then attempt to restart it about two hours later and after 7 tries, all with the car sounding like the the engine has fired but not yet fully running , then the engine dies. I would push start it but am parked on an uphill slope.
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I'm having a problem with my mom's 2005 Accent. It starts up just fine when cold, and will run for 15-20 minutes just fine, sometimes longer. Then, usually as you're slowing down, the engine just turns off. No bogging, no sputter, just turns off as if someone turned the key. Sometimes it will start back right back up, more often, it will need to sit for 30 seconds to a minute, and then it will fire back up. After that, all bets are off. Sometimes it will run again for 10-15 minutes, sometimes it will idle rough and die. I'm leaning towards a coil pack, but I'm sick of throwing parts at this. The last time I got it to idle roughly, it threw a random misfire, and cylinder 1, 2, and 4 misfire codes. I've changed out (in rough order) MAP sensor, the fuel pump (no fuel filter in this model), TPS (threw code for this), spark plugs, and most recently the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I'm not sure how to test the coil packs.
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I have a 2000 model accent manual trans its just recently clocked 200 000 km I know the car has had problems but they are getting worse. Occasionally I have Problems starting the car in the past but it usually takes no more than 5 turns to get started but this is getting worse the other day it took about 5 min maybe more to get the car started I am guessing my starter motor probably Needs to be changed.
Next problem yesterday after I put a full tank of Premium 98 in the car its starts to rev itself changing the sound and note of the motor running constantly it has done this in the past but not so severely and It only seem to do so after putting petrol Especially when I put fuel From a servo I don't usually go to the car would have stalled more than once but didn't only because I tried to keep the revs up when it sounded like it was gunna die also I am pretty sure my fan was making some weird noises but the car has had no engine Light show and no Overheating.
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I also tried jump starting - get same same result. Engine cranks, turns, and then sounds like it is just about to start up normally but it just dies completely. It seems to want to start but just can accelerate the engine high enough to keep it running. Almost like it's flooded on a carb motor.. 2000 V10..
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I have a 1999 Explorer with a 4.0 engine and when it gets cold it has trouble starting. It will click for a while and then start, but when it is warm I have no problem starting it.
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I have a 2001 Accent GL DOHC 1.5L (which I believe is the same as your LC model).
One night it started running poorly - missing, bad acceleration - like it was only running on 3 out of 4 cylinders. It was missing whilst idling and would backfire and struggle to accelerate. I took it to a mechanic and they said I needed a new coil pack. So I bought a coil pack from a 2nd hand wreckers that looked pretty good, the car idled better but accelerated worse, like it was only running on 2 cylinders .
So I swapped it back to the old coil pack - and now it wont even start. The engine turns over once then clicks loudly a few times - I think the clicking is from the distributor.
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On my 97 X SOHC, I have a temp gauge that is rather erratic. It reads high even with the engine off and cold and rises when the engine is running to the point the "Check gauges" light illuminates. Then bounces to normal then back near red line. This cycle continues.
To evaluate this, I bought a scan tool and the ECT reads as expected, around ambient to start, gradual climb till the thermostat opens, then hovers there while the radiator does its thing. Heater works as expected. So I'm fairly confident that my X doesn't have a cooling issue.
What my questions are: Can I disconnect the temp sender so I'm not watching the gauge bounce around and then the Check Gauges light is available for other issues that arise?
Does the check gauge light also send a signal back to the PCM?
Can I do any damage to the truck or will the PCM throttle the power back and flash the Check Engine light if a real cooling issue materializes?
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I have a 2002 Explorer with 147K that makes a chirping sound when I start it and the engine is cold. So far I have replaced the serpentine tension-er and the water pump. After about 10 minutes of running the noise stops. With the belt off the idler pulley spins freely. It does have the original power steering pump.
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I have a 1997 explorer sport 4x4 4.0 sohc It has a real tuff time with cold starts sputters won't hold and idle sits at about 500 rpm once its warm its not as bad still has a low idle.
Also i have a constant engine rattle thinking left front cam tension-er
Also throwing and check engine light odb scan tool shows o2 sensor position two is bad
I was thinking intake gaskets and new tension-er is a good place to start.
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The other day I went to turn off my vehicle and it continued running even when key is in off position. I took the key out and it still continued running. I had to disconnect the battery and turn key in on position for vehicle to stall. I do not want to buy any unnecessary parts nor do I want to take apart any unnecessary components.
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Its getting worse. Noticed it a month or so ago, very slight ticking noise when the engine was cold. It would go away after a minute or two when the engine warmed up. Kinda sounded like a lifter ticking type noise when low on oil but I was not low on oil.
Now its getting more noticeable and it doesn't go away. Very noticeable when I take off or accelerate. less noticeable when I take my foot off the gas but its still there.
What it might be? I am pretty newbie about engines and I don't want some repair outfit telling me I need a rebuilt engine if all I need is to tighten my manifold or something. Because that would be my luck.
2000, XLT, 5 Liter V8, 178K miles.
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