Explorer :: 1999 Ford 4.0L - Removing Upper Intake
Sep 20, 2011
I went thru a 100 posts on "Intake gasket" search but I couldn't find any repair information on the 4.0L intake gasket replacement. I'm having difficulty pulling the upper intake off. All nuts and connections have been removed except for the egr tube that's connected to the upper intake.
According to another site, u should be able to just pull straight up, clear the intake studs, turn the intake to the left and then up due to the fact the egr tube is curves inside the intake towards the front of the upper intake. No luck. egr tube won't separate from the intake. This is a little long but everything has been disassembled to this point. BTW this is a 4.0L OHV engine
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Our 2000 explorer xls 4x4 with 4.0 ohv just pop the code for the intake gasket leaking. My question is, would there be any way to tell if it is the upper or lower that is leaking? It has 188k on it but still runs good. I think I can feel a miss in it at idle but it is not a steady miss.
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I'm in the process of changing my upper and lower intake gaskets. my question is, the upper intake along with the tubing on the fuel rail are caked with oil/carbon, along with the back side of throttle body. What would be the best way to clean them?
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1999 F-250 LD 5.4... There is a hole on the back of the upper intake manifold, just below the back of the throttle body, is a vacuum hose supposed to be attached here? Have a serious vacuum leak, no coolant loss, no overheating, just had cop's and spark plugs done, now she backfires, stalls and will not stay running, mech. says its an intake gasket but the gasket and lower intake manifold look new.
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Dumb question but how do I remove the air filter intake from the turbo Its a little oily there from a fuel or oil leak but I dont see a clamp holding it on the turbo?
Also what is the e clip? Is it the little thing holding the wastegate rod on the exhaust turbine? Can I just pull the rod up off the clip?
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I have a 1998 Ford f150 4.6 2x4 i have a coolant leak on the upper intake. It comes out on the back left of the intake through a metal pipe. Well where the metal pipe is (pressed in) to the intake. Now i talk to the guy at ford dealership in the parts he said it is called the (heater pipe). He also told me that the part is 21 dollars but I have to press it in and if that does stop the leak he said I would have to buy a new intake. Now here is the problem I can not find any info regarding this heater pipe. I don't know how to remove it properly, why it is leaking. I can't find it in the handbooks that i have read so far.
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So i was thinking about buying a intake manifold for my truck and porting it and polish it. Would it be worth doing. I've decided that trying to port the heads will take up to much time and money for gaskets. Now the only reason why I am buying another stock one is so i can take my time and do it right.
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It doesn't look anything like the illistration in my Haynes book.Where are the bolts located and how many?
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I just replaced the engine in my F--150 with one from a van that had only 60K miles on it. It still runs rough and misses. Not as bad as the earlier engine that had dropped a valve. While trying to find the problem, I moved a large vacuum? hose at the rear of the engine maybe 1 inch diameter and it nearly fell off the barb at the back It is also connected at the other end to some type of small metal can. When I pulled on this it fell off and the engine died.
Also need the smaller 5/8 in diameter hose at front of air intake tube. I need a size or a pert number for this hose as I cannot crawl back onto the motor very many times due to a spinal problem. I would like to get this hose and then get under the firewall only one time. I am having issues with this truck, bought is used at auction running rough. Replaced engine with one that was supposed to be a good one, but it runs rough again..
I need to add that New platinum [plugs were installed and the coils were off the old engine that had maybe 50 miles on them and were from NAPA. I only hope htis hose is my problem. However I cannot find any part number or anything on it...
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Coolant spilled on my upper intake manifold. I washed it off to the best of my ability but when i started the car white smoke came from tge exhaust. What my next move should be?
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I am trying to remove the upper portion of my passenger seat for my 2012 Prius C. This is not the part that you sit on. It is the part where your back rests against. The part where the head rest attaches to. I'm not sure what the formal technical name of the part is.
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I have a 03 5.4 F150 SCrew... The intake was leaking on the passenger side (water outlet tube meets plastic).
Putting in the Dorman replacement and noticed that the front cylinder drivers side (#5) had a decent amount of coolant in it.. None of the others did. I've drained the coolant already and was wondering should I just put this back together and see?
The water outlet crossing has a hole right next to this cylinder and I can't see any cracks and not sure if the gaskets were leaking under it.
Seems like if the head gasket was blown I would see it in more cylinders? It never smoked or run bad before I got this leak... Drove it maybe 10 miles with it leaking out onto Cyl#1. Ran fine, never missed.
I just don't want to put this back together if the head gasket is blown but I don't know what to do.
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Just today,when replacing the UIM on a naturally aspirated 95 Pontiac Bonneville 3.8 with a Dorman upgraded type from my local auto parts, I ran into an issue. When following specified torquing sequences and specs , be very careful with the 1 long stud (#7), as it will split your new manifold there if you try to torque to 89 in/lbs. Took 1st back for replacement ,and the second new one started to split at the same place. Was using a brand new Craftsman in/lb torque wrench set correctly and following instructions exactly. I've seen a lot of excellent info on this UIM issue with the GM 3.8 ltr 1995-2004 years, but never this issue with the replacement ones. If I have to change this again will definitely go with the aluminum one.
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I can't get the upper rear bolt out the fuel lines are in the way and I have tried wiggling the arm in every direction possible. any tricks?
97 V8 AWD.
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I have a 1998 Explorer XLT with the 5.0L V8. My check engine light has been on and off sporadically for the past two months. Lately, it has been on more than off. I brought it to a local place to diagnose the problem. Both upper O2 sensors are shot. What kind of difficulty level am I looking at if I tackle this myself?
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I just noticed that the upper ball joint boots for both uppers are dry rotted and torn! Only 40k miles and the boot falls apart when I touch any portion of it. Is this normal, so much for quality?
Anyway my question is how hard is it to R&R them and do I have time? IOW will the ball joint wear out really fast?
Rust bubbles front of hood both corners, the tranny thing, now the ball joints all within 40k miles. rear glass trim breaks and falls off.
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I'm a rural mail carrier and have been looking for a Sport Trac for a work truck. It's size seems to be ideal. I recently found a 2002 model in excellent shape but it has that large console down the center that has an a/c duct in it for the back seat. For me to be able to use this truck, that would have to be completely removed.
Is this possible? I really need to know as that is the only deal breaker I have with this otherwise fine looking truck.
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I have a vehicle that came in on the hook its an 01 exploder4.0 sohc no start.. when cranking it will back fire through intake. no dtc's however its also showing all monitors not set?? dead battery erasing keep alive memory I don't know. Here's what i do know apparently it had gotten partial tune up all left side plugs and wires changed. All right side plugs and number 3 wire factory. I have plenty of fuel pressure. It appears that all cylinders have 150 psi for compression.
I changed all plugs and spark tester is showing there is spark at the plug, (yes at all) just cranks and cranks and then back fires. I also have removed front ho2s to rule out blocked cats, wires are not crossed. I have an rpm signal which should have been evident when I had spark and injector pulse. have not changed the wires nor the coil which is a 6 pack coil. (Boss refuses to get them for me since i have spark )even though I told him there was some arcing.
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I have a vacuum line missing on the top of intake its a 98 explorer 4.0 sohc. I don't know where it goes...
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Problem started when the fuel supply was low, she had to floorboard it to get on the interstate, keep getting cel, misfire #4.....I replaced fuel filter, had a little water causing the plug to arc....had a mechanic replace the plug.....at startup cold, cel is off and it doesn't miss, after it warms up, light comes back on and starts to miss. I have ran every type of fuel cleaner in it, even used a three step cleaner for throttle body, vacuum system, and tank. I just poured sea foam into the tank and trying that, I noticed a gurgling noise when I removed the gas cap. I'm thinking #4 injector is stopped up.. I recently replaced all the coil boots.....kept getting condensation in the boot (she has been washing the underside at the car wash).....the truck has the 4.6 and has 85,000 miles, it is an 07 sport trac.....
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I have a 77 bronco with a 5.0 efi engine from a 97 Ford Explorer. I noticed there is oil in the cold air intake area and upper intake manifold. I was checking on things and noticed oil around the PCV valve and on the outside of the cold air intake system. Should I be concerned about this? I have done some research. I checked the PCV valve and intake manifold gasket which appear to look fine.
The PCV valve rattles and the gasket is intact. Granted there isn't a lot of oil when I looked inside the upper intake manifold but thought I should write and ask if this is a problem or not. Should I just replace them pcv valve any ways and recheck it after driving it for a few miles? The explorer did have 110K on it but when we took it apart we thought the engine looked great for how many miles it had on it. We did change out the cam and timing chain but as far as the other parts, we did not replace.
I am also getting a unusual reading to not reading with my oil gauge. When driving for a about 30 minutes or so, My oil gauge goes down to zero when I'm stopped but when I'm drive off then the pressure comes back up. When I have it in park the gauge reads fine.
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