I have a 1997 Ford Explorer with a 4.0 SOHC engine. It bogs down and won't go over 20 MPH. I'm showing codes P1405 and P1151. Would either of these codes cause that issue? I'm not even sure how to start diagnosing this.
View 1 RepliesStarted hearing a weird humming noise (not the usual hyundai hum in the front passenger side) coming from the front when decelerating from approximately 20mph down to a stop or from a stop up to 20mph. Went to a shop and ruled out wheel bearings, brakes, rotation, alignment, etc. Noise stopped.
Couple weeks later noticed physical resistance and upon accelerating to about 40mph it felt like I had a flat tire. That bumping, vibrating, shuddering feeling. No flat tire. Physical resistance, not power. Came and went in severity depending on terrain and speed. Brought it to a 2nd shop because the first was closed. The guy found codes that indicated the anti-lock brake system had failed. Said it should be covered under warranty and I should go to dealer.
Dealer replaced a brake switch (which has been recalled and was replaced before) and an inhibitor switch. They assessed the brakes too.
Car drives fine for a week and suddenly the brakes are screeching and we can't reverse out of a parking spot like the car is stuck on a snow mound but isnt. Rock it- in and out of forward and reverse to get out. We test it putting it in reverse again and car slams to a stop. When the car was pulled up on the tow truck we noticed only the rear driver tire didn't spin-locked up.
Dealer says no computer codes and that they just had to "adjust" the brake switch they had replaced. Drove home fine. Next day and for these next few days-something is still wrong. Physical resistance, not power. Cracking/popping noises when braking.
2002 F-150 4.2L. About a year ago, it threw the P0171 and 0174 codes up. After replacing all the simple stuff, I bit the bullet and replaced the lower intake gasket as well as the upper intake gaskets. Buttoned it all up, reset the codes and we were back in business. No issues, truck ran good. About 6-8 months later, the check engine light came back on, I check it and it was that pesky set of codes again, 0171 and 0174.
It still ran fine, but the codes were there, so I just drove it for a while (it's a company truck that doesn't get driven that much).
A couple of weeks ago while driving it, it acted very sluggish. You could mash the accelerator and it would just very slowly run up the speed. It never hesitated or missed, it just got very very sluggish. Checked the codes, no additional codes.
Then it began to stumble when you mashed the gas.
I put new plugs (old one's looked great, other than a huge gap), new wires, new coil pack and started it. Pushed the gas pedal, it just dies.
I look for obvious vacuum leaks and replace a couple of elbows for the PCV and it seems to run a little better. Enough so that I can drive it, but still not running right.
I ordered all the intake gaskets and new isolator bolts and spend Saturday pulling that apart. I didn't do the lower intake because the upper intake gaskets looked so good, I just don't believe this is a intake gasket problem. None the less, I installed the new gaskets on the plenum and upper intake, new isolator bolts, replaced a couple pieces of vacuum hose that looked cracked, started it back up, it ran as smooth as silk.
Convinced I had it fixed, I went for a test drive. Idling, it is as smooth as you could ask for. Pull up to a stop sign, wait, step on the gas and it chokes. Just stumbles and you can hear it almost backfiring and pushing air back through the system.
I've put new PCV, new EGR, new vacuum lines in several places, new upper intake gaskets, new plenum gaskets, new isolator bolts, and even new o-rings on the injectors, and I'm still getting the 0171 and 0174 codes.
With the diagnostics on, I can see voltage varying on all O2 sensors, so I assume they are working (none of them are reading 0 volts). It doesn't throw any other code up, other than the 0171 and 0174.
At this point I feel like I'm replaced every single thing ever mentioned in any 0171 and 0174 thread on the internet. Where to go next? 1 more point, if you very slowly push the gas, it runs fine, but any pressure on it, it bogs down and just stumbles.
I have a ford f150 supercab XLT with the 4.6L triton. It starts and idles absolutely fine but when i push the gas to fast(when in park) it bogs down. I just changed the fuel filter aslo...No change.
If I floor it it Bogs then goes up to about 3000rpm (about halfway) and has trouble moving over that RPM or halfway. like theres a restriction of some sort.
If I gradually push the gas, it will go up in rpms and i can get it to about 2000 rpms then I can tack the rpm gauge out if I wanted. but never do.
Also when driving, it seems as if its lacking power..and just to add it does all this stuff while in gear also..
When running It smells of an exhaust leak. but I cant find one. And I cant smell it in the cab.
So there it is. If I think of anything else, or do anything. I will keep posting.
I have a 1999 Explorer. 5.0 V8 auto AWD. Motor bogs down when going up hill. Smoke coming from under vehicle. Recently tuned up & oil change. 157,000 miles. No warning lights. Not over heating. No burnt smell from oil or trans fluid. No leaks from motor or trans. Oil & trans fluid look clean. I have a little mechanical knowledge. Someone said it could possibly be a bad catalytic converter.
View 2 RepliesSo.... here's my issue. I have a 2001 supercrew 5.4 and runs great all day long, no problem starting or anything. After I have driven it for a while and turn the AC on it cools off very good then after about a 1/2hr. the truck tries to stall. It almost sounds like a vacuum leak and really bogs down. I can wait about 2hrs and then with the AC off the truck starts and drives like it should. I am steering to the IAC valve but would like to know if this is it.
View 9 RepliesI've got a 2000 f150 with a 5.4 and 135,000 miles. The other day it was driving fine then i stopped and got gas and after that it was boggy and running rough so i thought bad gas but i ran through that gas and got more at a different store. The cel came on i got it checked it was misfire cylinder 1 so i put new cop, spark plug, and injector. Unhooked the battery and then the light came back on so i ran the code and now im getting a p0171. I checked the pcv and sprayed around the intake and vacuum lines. I also checked the pcv hose and elbow in the back and i found nothing its a fairly new hose. So, it does run rough it shutters a lot.
View 2 RepliesI have a 99 F150 4x4 with the 4.6 Motor approx 150000miles. Transmission went out so I decided to try and replace it...
New/rebuilt tranny went in with no problem but something is not right. It will drive but seems like it is stuck in high gear and bogs the motor down. It is giving me error codes P1747, P0750, P0755, P0743, P0102. All the wiring harness is in good shape with no burns or other noticeable problems. Somehow the transmission isn't reading right?
When I bought this rebuilt transmission I was told it was set up for 2wd but he would convert it for 4wd. The only difference i noticed with the new tranny is the shaft coming out of the tranny, where the safety neutral switch is, has a diamond shape instead of the oval shape that connects the shifter cable. No big deal i think, just had to buy a new link for the shifter cable with the diamond.
Also on the passenger side of the tranny there is a nine pin plug. My wire harness from the truck has one pin hole that is opposite of the tranny. Not sure why. Do I need a new harness or wrong tranny?
I have a 97 Pontiac Grand Am w 3.1 engine that is my son's college car. We recently rebuilt the original engine and put it in after having a 99 monte carlo 3.1 engine in it's place and it had a head gasket problem as well. Just before we switched engines my son was noticing that it would kind of hesitate under acceleration from about 1500 rpm to around 2000 rpm especially when it was wanting to up shift. I figured it would resolve itself with the engine change. It did not. It has now gradually gotten worse.
My son drove it to Liberal about 4 hours away and he stated it was worse and especially when you would get into overdrive it would drop down to around 2000 rpm then start sputtering or loading up or just being dead then would down shift to 3rd and try to clean itself out and speed up and then up shift to OD and do the same cycle again. I drove it back and kept it in 3rd gear and seemed to run fine at 2500 or higher. I also had to go thru low, and 2 and feather it up from a standing start. It idles fine as well.
I thought it might be like one of the saturns I had which ended up having a plugged Catalytic converter and a bad coolant temp sensor. This morning I did a test hole and it made no difference. I tried a different coil pack/ESC and it made no difference. I cleaned the MAF sensor and no change. The fuel pressure is 41 then 38 when idling then 43 when remove the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose. I also changed the fuel filter.
I was kind of ruling out the tps, iac, and egr and water temp sensor as those were part of the other engine when I put the other engine in so they are different and I am assuming they must be good. Plugs and plug wires are new as well. It has not thrown any codes. I did notice that when it is just in park and you press on the accelerator to rev it up it only will rev to 3500 rpm and will shut down like a rev limiter is kicking in and just do a kind of surge thing. My saturn did that too and it was a plugged cat and when I knocked the biskit out of the manifold on that car it stopped. I have already got that ruled out though.
2000 ranger 2.5 245000 miles. code po171 and idle problem has come back. Replace ICV, EGR, MAF, PVC, check fuel pres, air cleaner, plugs, wires, O2, check for vac leaks, Intermittently coasting at 20mph out of gear (stick shift) engine revs to 2500 rpm and holds until i brake to a stop then it idles down. So I disconnect the ICV and it runs perfect. (its a new ICV) something is telling the ICV to open up. a month ago it did the same thing when i replaced the EGR the idle problem cleared up so I thought that was it.
There is a relationship between the truck speed and the engine speed but how does the engine speed know the truck is moving when its out of gear. It work perfect for a month all of a sudden it starts this problem again. I am thinking of taking it to the ford dealer for a diagnostic test but I don't know how specific they can get on whats wrong I don't what to them to just say "oh you have a vac leak" . . . I know a 171 could be vac leak but the problem is so dramatic and off again on again it seems more like a part problem then a vac hose is either leaking or not.
Every time I exceed 20 MPH, my MFD chimes at me and causes a warning to flash on the screen. The only way to get rid of the warning is to either slow down to under 20 or hit the "OK" button on my steering wheel. This becomes problematic when I am trying to follow the directions given by my nav system.
I turned off the "speed warning" feature that is under the "winter tires" section of the config menu. This didn't affect it. How do I turn this thing off??
I have a 2007 Subaru Forester, bought from a dealer with 7,000 miles on it in 2007. I religiously had the oil changed every 5,000 miles and had other recommended work done. At 90,000 miles I did not have the work done immediately, but waited until 92,000 miles. My car then ran out of oil, with no smoking, no oil in the driveway, no warning light, so I believe the dealers didn't fill the oil at 85,000 miles. But that's not why I'm writing. I had a remanufactured short block assembly installed and the other work done at the dealer to the tune of over $6000.
Now that I have my car back it hesitates at least once a day, sometimes several times, sometimes several times in a row. It hesitates at about 20 miles per hour, when the gears are changing. Of course, it didn't hesitate when they checked it and their computer says "nothing's wrong". In addition, there was a tapping sound in the engine. Again "nothing's wrong". When I had my car smogged, the smog tech said "OMG, you have a problem with your valves." I took it to the dealer and they then admitted I had a problem with my valves (or lifters) and they fixed it. The hesitation continues. What could be causing the hesitation? They're not smart enough nor do they care enough to figure out what it is.
Ok, this is something I have been battling with for some time now. Recently the problem has gotten rather bad.
I have an 01 Honda Civic EX automatic that I have been babying to get it to run somewhat smoothly, but with the seasonal temperature change it has gotten worse. The car does not want to shift from 1st to 2nd and will only do it once I reach 20mph, this was normal for about 6 months. Now the car will not shift when trying to move from a stop. My thinking is that it has not downshifted into first. I had the transmission rebuilt 2 years ago. There is a slow transmission leak but I have kept it topped off. Sometimes it will not shift from 3rd to 4th... this is new.
My thought is that the shift solenoids are worn out and need replacing.I do have random misfires, but I think that is a separate issue.
Also, it has almost no problem when driving from a cold start. It gets worse the more you drive or after the engine has reached running temp.
Had to get a state inspection this month, and originally failed due to front right outer tie rod and both control arm bushings -- i bit the bullet and had the shop do this work for me, since I am going on vacation this week and i plan on using my car.
Anyhow, got the car back, and now i can hear a light clicking or tapping noise, but i can only really hear it when i put the window down, or if im driving by one of those concrete median dividers. Its as if someone is taking the metal tip of a screwdriver amd tapping it against a hollow metal bowl -- it makes a clicking noise, not a clunking or whirring noise...
I can only hear it when i hit 20mph; any less and i cant hear the clicks. At 20mph, its a slow, faint click that seems to be closely related to the wheel spinning. At 40mph, i can hear it is much faster, but just barely louder. I hear it best at abouf 25-30 mph, before road noises begin to over power the clicks.
Turning does not seem to affect the clicking, nor does braking. Its just constant -- if the wheel is spinning over 20mph, its clicking. Whether i coast or accelerate does not matter. I checked for rocks/nails in my treads, and with the exception of quite a few tiny rocks (which i took out), there doesn't seem to be anything remarkable. I checked my CV boots, and i cant find any signs of tearing or leaking grease...
If it is my CV Joint, wouldnt the mechanic that did my inspection, who caught my tie rod and control a bushings, and who did my alignment -- wouldnt he have also noticed something odd about my CV Joint, if something is indeed wrong?
So my car (2001 Civic) was having some issues that I needed to get worked out, so I was driving my mother's car for a few days. Within the first few minutes I knew there was something wrong, but I had so much going on that I haven't had a chance to get back to it for a while.
So she has a 2003 Toyota Camry with just 39k miles. Her work is about 2 miles away from home, so it basically gets driven there and to get groceries, and local clothes shopping. The car basically never sees the highway.
Hard to describe the sound, but it's like a loud rattling/vibration with every revolution of the front wheels. It sounds like it's coming from the front passenger side. Either the tire or the engine area. Here's a video of it on youtube. You can hear it pretty clearly under the road noise. It sounds kinda of like going over train tracks or something, and I'm only going about 45mph in the video. [URL] ....
So I don't know much about the car, but I am very familiar with my civic, so I checked out a few things. The tires appear to be in pretty good shape. About half the tread left with no unusual wear. I doubt it's the tires, cuz it really doesn't sound like tire noise. I checked the engine mounts and they appear to be in good order without cracks. Wouldn't expect an engine mount to go at 39k miles either, regardless of age. The car is garage kept.
Neither wheel has any side to side or up and down play like a bad ball joint, tie rod end, or wheel bearing would have. The steering wheel doesn't vibrate or anything. The sway bar endlinks appeared to be in good shape. I just changed the brake pads and rotors because of an unrelated issue. It didn't fix the problem.
A couple of things I will note: The belts are kind of dirty. It was really weird because half the belt is brown, the other half is black. It's basically split down the middle of one side. It's just dirt though, as I was able to rub some of it off with my fingers. The car was in a minor accident a couple of years back. It required me to replace the bumper and the passenger side headlight.
My wife has a 04 chevy trailblazer ltd with 4wd. I have a couple of questions "service 4wd" comes on seems stuck in 4wd has moaning noise over 20mph moaning goes away when turning has grinding noise coming from front and sometimes a clanking noise that doesn't sound like something heavy but not very light either...
View 2 RepliesAfter replacing a faulty spark plug wire on my '97 explorer, I started the engine (4.0 liter pushrod) and noticed the idle much lower than it was previously- to the point it now borders on stalling. The wire I replaced was on the right side (if facing engine from front) closest to the firewall. I thought I may have worked a vacuum hose loose when feeding the wire under the intake, but I checked and checked and saw nothing amiss. What I may've did (if anything) to cause this problem?
View 7 RepliesMy 'new to me' '97 Explorer has this odd 'rumble' every now and then, as if I just ran over some rumble strips. Very brief, maybe a second or less, as if I hit 5 or 6 of those bumps. It is a V8, XLT all wheel drive and I'm not familiar with it. Is this something I need to get looked at soon or is it just one of those things with the AWD. I only driven it a few times so I don't see a pattern and all else is great. Its a tight truck with less than 100K miles and I really enjoy it.
View 7 RepliesHave a 97 Explorer 4x4. lately when I start the truck it has shifted itself into 4x4 low. I had disconnected the battery for a few minutes, re-connected and the truck was back in auto. This no longer works and it is stuck in 4x4 low. Mechanic wants to replace transfer case encoder, but says more diag needed after to replacing encoder motor to determine internal failure and may need more work. Can I simply have the 4x4 low disengaged manually?
View 3 RepliesJust got this vehicle a week ago. Test drove before I bought but that drive was fine. Then after driving I started have a popping. Started paying attention at this point and noting what happens when.
It seems I don't have any problem at all until she gets warmed up. I can drive about 20 miles with no problem. Then the OD is Off light starts flashing. Then when I decelerate to stop, I have a big popping at exactly 20 mph. I then have 2 smaller pops once I take off from my stop.
I started searching online everywhere to determine the cause. I am a female whose daddy taught them just enough not to be completely stupid, but not near enough to be able to fix my own car problems. I thought from what I've read that this issue might be a torque converter. I do have a hum after a while that sounds like road noise....like I saw one other person post about bad TC's. But I haven't seen any posts that address the popping.
I just bought a 97 explorer and the abs light is on is there a way to pull the codes without an abs scanner?
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