Explorer :: 1995 Truck Rough Idle Every Now And Then
Dec 20, 2011
I have a 95 explorer, has been a great truck until lately. it started as just a small rough idle every now and then, nothing to make a big deal about. just changed the oil and wiped things down a bit, started it up ran just fine for a couple of minutes and when it starts to just barely warm up and the idle drops down it starts louping or surging, if i hold the throttle open it bit it kinda goes away and it would continue to warm up and not have a problem idling. now it won't even do that. i'm pulling several codes, to many to list and the truck ran just fine a few days ago ...
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I have some major problems with my explorer. The idle is rough and accelerating is rough also. If I nearly put it to the floor it almost seems like it studders the power. it will feel great for a second that feels like it's less power for a second then more and less and more and less. When I'm sitting at idle, it will idle fine then after a minute or so it will bog way down and shake the whole vehicle. when that happens I give it some gas and it comes back to normal idle then it does it again after sitting for another minute. I've replaced spark plugs, wires, alternator, oil change and some tires. I've been told by many mechanics it could be the IAC Valve or the fuel pump or the fuel filter or a vacuum leak.
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My truck is a 1995 Explorer 4.0 150,000 miles, 5 speed.
Problem - Rough idle : when cold it's worse and will stall and choke a little. When warmed up it just has a rough idle but will not stall and stays at a pretty constant RPM. It's very tolerable when warmed up but still not right. It drives fine once off idle. No black smoke that I can see. Power may be just a little off but I would not bet on it. MPG seems about normal but haven't been on a long enough trip since problem started to tell for sure. Also longer than normal cranking on occasion.
Diagnostics so far : Fuel pressure is at 32 PSI, vacuum off regulator it's at 40 PSI. Not sure about key on only as I don't trust the autozone loaner gauges. You have to fiddle with it each time before it will read. Leak down after 30 minutes was about 4 PSI
No Check engine light ever. KOEO test shows no hard or on demand codes, I get the 111 pass. From CM I get 336 and 45.
336 is EGR related and my looks pretty rusty. I put a vacuum pump on it while running and the EGR held vacuum but had no effect at all on idle, I was expecting it to get worse as I opened the EGR so it may be stuck.
Searched high and low for vacuum leaks by ear, visual and with starting fluid all turned up nothing.
Actions so far : Replaced plugs, wires, IAC, and fuel filter. Cleaned MAF sensor and throttle body plus ran lucas fuel injector cleaner through it.
Next steps : I've got the EGR but it's so rusty I am sure I'll break the tube it bolts to plus I don't know it that alone will cause the rough idle. Will the DPFE sensor and/or EVR create a rough idle yet not turn on the CEL?
Thought about changing the fuel pump and/or regulator but the numbers are not terrible. Agree?
Thought about changing the intake gaskets but don't see any leaks.
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1995 pickup truck 2.4 liter 4 cal 4WD. I have a new problem- I drove out to a favorite spot in the mountains (up a dusty road) and when I got to the end of the road my truck was suddenly idling REALLY rough. I was able to drive it home and it runs "OK" as long as you stay on the gas (I say OK but it does want to die and especially wants to die after it warms up and then harder to restart until it cools)- as soon as you let off the gas the idle is on the extreme side of rough. It did not act like a fuel filter has historically (hesitate when giving gas), but I had a filter so I replaced the fuel filter anyway.
I also pulled the air duct work and cleaned it all out, put a new air filter in and used CRC MAF sensor cleaner on the MAF sensor. I did pour in a Chevron fuel system cleaner but it would likely take a tank full at least to work and it does not run good enough to run a tank full through. I put in all new plugs (gapped) and checked resistance on the plug wires and cap- all seems to be acceptable. I checked all the vacuum lines and did replace a couple that were dry and crumbly. I am now at a loss,
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My 1995 chevy c1500 cuts out at idle or the moment the brakes are applied to shift into drive. I replaced the passenger wheel cylinder and bled the brakes and it ran fine for a few hours, then the idle problem stated again. I have check the map senor and a few other electronic component as my mechanic said the problem " might be electrical."
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I have a 95 Impreza with the 1.8 motor, this thing is hesitating when you give it too much gas at once. I got the car this way so I don't know when it started. I put in new plugs, the wires tested ok, and the ignition coil tested ok too. The only code the engine was throwing was 21 the coolant temp sensor and that has been replaced. I also put in new o2 sensor, maf sensor has been cleaned. Checked for vacuum leaks and there are no leaks, also did a compression test and got 180 on all 4. Where to look next, I don't want to just replace sensors without knowing what is wrong. The car did run better with the tps sensor unplugged but still running very bad.
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Symptoms: (162K miles, last tune up about 70K miles ago) rough idle, and poor acceleration. Occasionally, the car really jerks while accelerating. I read about new plugs/wires, and something called seafoam. I think the highway patrol would pull me over as a gross polluter, but that too seems worth a try. Various sensors and hoses, I'm frankly overwhelmed. Where to start?
Something I learned today: My car was made in 10/95. Apparently, I can scan for trouble codes?!? How and where? Is it OBD I or II or something else? Dumb question: I can't even get the interior engine shroud off. I found three clamps, but it still hangs up near the top. What am I missing?
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We have owned a 95 Camry V6 for 20 years and it has always been reliable. However, several days ago, the car started to have its first engine performance issue. When we start the engine cold, there was rough idle/engine lope. If it was warmed up for about 5-10 minutes, the car was fine for the entire day. but during this rough idle, the car jerked slightly as well if i press on the gas.
Since the symptom began, I took it to local shop A and they replaced all the spark plugs, pcv valve and air filter which did not solve the rough idle/looping problem. The rough idle continued, and few days later, I was unable to start the engine though it cranks. (at least that's what I think it does). Had it towed to shop B and they've replaced oil pump, which they thought to be the problem. I took it home, and the next morning I found myself unable to start the car.
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I have a 95 honda accord 2.2L, 135,000 miles. One day while sitting at a light the car started vibrating due to a rough idle problem. The idle speed is ok at about 750 rpm.
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1995 ford ranger with 4.0. It idles rough. Replaced MAF TPS fuel pump fuel filter fuel pressure regulator upper o2 sensor. IAC.. still idles rough RPMs drop. It isn't as bad since replacing MAF but still not right. What else is there.. Cleaned out the air intake port it was gummed up. Don't know what else to do?
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I have a 95 Buick Regal, V6 3.8 Liter. The symptoms are the following: stuttering idle. And lack of response at times when I try to accelerate. Like sometimes I'll be driving on the highway, and having no problems. Then I'll be going up a hill at around 55 mph, and then the car will shudder as I try to maintain a speed of 55 mph. So I have to ease off the accelerator and slow down. At first I thought this was a transmission problem, but I am guessing it's the same problem that causes my choppy idle.
So I had this acceleration problem on the highway when I was going up a hill. And a weak idle. These problems have been going on for several months now. They were annoying, but didn't seem that serious. Then all of a sudden, on a rainy day, the car was really responding poorly to acceleration at all speeds. I was able to drive around, but I couldn't count on the car responding right away when I hit the gas pedal. And the car would shudder at times. Then, I didn't drive the car for a few days, and then it was dry, no rain, and the car ran better. So I am thinking humidity makes the problem worse.
I have also noticed over the past few months, that the car runs best when I start it up after a few days of not running it. Then if I drive the car a few miles and let it sit for about 2 hours or so, it would idle weakly when I would start it up again. The car's been doing that for several months now, but it wasn't really affecting the drivability or the response of the car when I hit the gas pedal.
Now it's gotten much worse. So, I've already replaced the following items myself to no avail: mass air flow sensor, oxygen sensor, and egr valve. I am guessing the next thing to fix is the pcv valve. But I also think it might be the fuel pump. My first guess though is the pcv valve. What else could it be? And is there any easy way to test to see if the fuel pump is going bad? Or should I just take out the pcv valve and see if it looks bad?
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1995 Honda EX with 150,000 miles. Its been running rough ie rough idle, stalling at low rpms etc Additionally for awhile now when humidy reached north of 85% the car wont start. It cranks but rarely runs.
Took it to a mechanic last week for a tuneup. They replaced the Distributor cap, spark plug and wires and fuel filter. Car ran great for a day. Then progressively got worse. Was undriveable the other day stalling misfiring while at speed. Took it back today. They determined that it was still not getting spark and replaced the distributor. They did so, test drove it, declared it good and I came to pick it up. Paid the bill, walked out to the car and the damn thing would not start. Humidity was high.
Mechanic pulled a spark plug and put a tester in and didn't get a spark when cranking. He is assuming the distributor he just put in is bad. So they are keeping the car overnight to be fixed in the morning with a new distributor.
However I'm not convinced the dizzy is bad, I believe, as I've read that the Honda's ECU is probably bad and shorting out in the high humidity. Can a bad ECU would prevent spark?
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My 95 4.0 has had a periodic idle issue for quite a while. It seems it may be getting worse. Here is when it may only happen:
Vehicle is fully warm. I shut it off for about 1 hr or so and when I restart it, it shakes and misses in idle. It will idle fine after I drive it around or if I rev the engine for a while when still parked.
This never triggers the "check engine light". New fuel filter, plugs and wires.
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When I start the truck it hard to start and the idle is rough but when it warms up it seems to get better but still miss fires now and then so i was thinking could it be a bad O2 there is now "CEL" because the battery was dead (installed a new one) and the truck has not been on the road yet (want to get everything fixed first) and update on the door alarm will be working on that tomorrow almost forgot 2002 explorer 4.0L "E" for the vin 4 wheel drive 124k on it.
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2003 ford explorer 4.6L. This truck will start and run rough high temp low oil light come on and temp gauge is pegged hot. Oil gauge is fine though, checked oil its fine.
I checked coolant reservoir its ok.
If I shut truck off and restart it will run ok and rev like normal and then all of a sudden go into limp mode and will misfire etc...
What sensor seems to be the main culprit?cht sensor???
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Got a strange one here. 1995 Buick Park Avenue, supercharged 3800, 159K miles... an older car, but an unmolested one. A little over a week ago I began to notice an occasional miss when cruising along at highway speeds, along with a slightly rougher idle. Both the fuel filter and the plugs/wires predated my ownership of the car (a little more than 6 months); so seeing no obvious culprit, I replaced them and hoped for improvement.
Unfortunately, neither had any impact. The missing continued to become more noticeable. It was never present under acceleration. Most of it was like a split-second long version of "bucking" that could be observed while cruising at lower (<2000) RPMs. It was also very noticeable at idle. Eventually a code was set: P0341, camshaft sensor issue. If the story had ended there, it would have been just another night in the garage. But it didn't.
As I was noticing the aforementioned symptom increase, I also noticed my voltmeter would occasionally "twitch" in the downward direction. Eventually I had an incident where I came to a stoplight... transmission in Drive, foot on brake, gauge dropped to around 10-11v. It returned to 14v momentarily, but dropped back down, held there for several seconds, returned, etc. No particular rhyme or rhythm. Of course my first guess was that the alternator was failing; a separate problem from the other.
I checked all the relevant connections (at the battery, at the alternator, etc), and cleaned them for good measure. All were tight, relatively clean, and the cables showed no resistance on the ohmmeter. It happened that I had another correct alternator on hand (used/working pull), so I swapped it in. No change. I reinstalled the original and was back where I started.
On my most recent drive, I noticed both issues had become very noticeable. The drop in voltage was happening at nearly every stop, and the missing was happening a few times per minute while coasting along. There seemed to be some correlation between the missing and voltage fluctuating, but it wasn't absolute.
I decided to attack the voltage issue again. Re-checked all the cables; same result as before (all OK). Looked all over the car for possible bad grounds, loose connections, or other visible problems, but found none. My next thought was to run a jumper from B+ to the voltage regulator's Sense input (have seen issues there on more than a few older vehicles) - but after reading that this car uses the PCM as the voltage regulator, I didn't proceed.
Just to be certain I'm going to have the alternator tested by the local auto parts store. But I suspect it'll pass.
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My explorer has been running a little rough, particularly at idle. When I take off from a rough idle, it'll run rough until I hit 25-30mph. I ran by O'Reilly's hoping to pick up a pack of spark plugs and be done with it, ended up leaving with a new MAF sensor. It ran better for about 10 miles (I'm a delivery driver, so I did a lot of stop and go immediately), before it ran even worse than it did before, but at least my CEL finally came on. Took it back to O'Reilly's and they read a MAF sensor code and a catalytic system code (didn't ask for the codes, and now realize that was a mistake).
So today I took it to a muffler shop to have the catalytic system diagnosed. They looked at it for 10 minutes and told me they didn't think it was the converter. They said it seemed more like the EGR valve or solenoid, or the IAC. He scanned the codes again and got multiple "running lean" codes (0171, 0174, etc). The guy said I didn't have a vacuum leak, so I think I can rule that out. Unfortunately, the truck idled fine the whole time so he didn't feel comfortable giving me a definitive answer. He told to to leave the EGR valve hose unplugged for a few days and see if anything changes. I'm thinking about running a bottle of fuel cleaner through it or taking off the IAC and/or EGR and cleaning them myself.
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99 explorer 4.0 automatic, lately been running weird. Starts up but will stall out unless you let it warm up. And idle drops below 500 rpm. And is really rough feeling. To like 2 or 300 rpm, then will stall but will start right back up. When I changed spark plugs and wires problem stopped for about 2 weeks and now is back. And has no engine code.
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What can cause my 99 explorer xlt to have a rough idle on initial start ups?(Its worse in the winter time) And sometime after driving places when i put it in park the truck will cut off. It has the 6 cylinder SOHC if that's useful.
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Bought a used 2003 Explorer 4X4 that runs like crap.... All I know is it has new upper and lower radiator hoses, new battery, new brakes, 2 new tires and new belts... suspension seems great and body is nice too. It obviously needed a new radiator and complete exhaust, so I did those. Now it is running better ( I can actually get the RPMs over 1500) but still running rough and will stall if I let off the gas. It will surge and dip in RPMs. Very suspicious of vacuum leak.
Unplugged the MAFS and it roared upon start but within a minute started the sputtering etc. Currently pulled the IAC and check continuity between pins and it was 10 ohms so that passed but there is no continuity between either pin and the case. So this seems to indicate I need to replace the IAC which I will do tomorrow. I would love to find a diagram that displays the vacuum system so I can make a thorough check of it. Also seems to have an oil leak on drivers side valve cover gasket.
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4.0 SOHC cranks once no start, then starts on second crank. 104K miles and used to idle very smooth, now mildly rough and sometimes upon stopping the rpms will dip down to almost stalling but not every time. Also just had the fuel pump replaced.
Also... Seafoam? Is this really as good as it sounds, I mean it can be used on anything, except cereal!
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