Explorer :: 1992 4.0 - Surging At Idle Or Coming To A Stop
Feb 7, 2012
Well i have a 1992 for explorer 4.0 all lights seem to dim kinda surging at idle or coming to a stop. Has new battery, battery cables nice and tight new alternator. My Volt gauge on my cluster jumps from 12 to 14 volts. battery light flashes seems to be getting worse. Was having similar issue about 1 year ago found a injector giving up. Replaced injector and worked good for a while. Wondering is it common to have that issue with injectors causing these issues. Doesn't seem likes its missing firing.
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2009 Ford Explorer - 6cyl -4L - 36K miles. This morning driving it, I came to a stop sign and as I was braking, the idle starting going up (and up and up) to the point where I had to shut off the engine. When I restarted it, everything was fine and of course, I can't reproduce this. I have the shop manual and couldn't find an IAC valve on this vehicle which I'm assuming it doesn't have. I'm sure I didn't accidentally hit the gas (as opposed to the brake which I know I was pressing down on when it was happening). Years ago I had a different Ford which had the exact same symptom and replacing the IAC solve the problem.
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I was told by the dealer it would be over 150 to scan and do a fuel trim on my 02 Explorer, XLT, 4.0, Auto. I can't afford the scan or a garage. I paid 4200 for it and a short time later it starts surging at stop lights then it starts sputtering when idling and taking a while to start. Next it stops accelerating past 2.5k, then works well a bit then stops accelerating past 50 miles an hour. Then it works with an 02 disconnected then starts acting up again. It now either runs normal, wont accelorate past certain ranges, or starts then quits 3 seconds later, unless I unplug the MAF then it runs 15 seconds then stalls. Through all this symptoms come and go. Always banks 1 and 2 lean.
Symptoms
Knock
Rough Idle
Slow Starts
Hesitation
Lag
Stall
Replaced
02 Sensors
Fuel Filter
Injectors
Plugs
Plug Wires
Tested
Maf
TP
Temp Sensor
Cam Sensor
Crank Sensor
All EGR Components
Idle Valve
Coil Pack
For any air leaks.
Fuel pressure 37 or higher
Clean Fuel Pump Strainer
Flow tested pump
Checked air filter
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Wife's daily driver often stalls when coming to a stop. I changed MAP, TPS, Fuel filter; Reputable mechanic changed IAC, Plugs, Wires, Cleaned Throttle Body. We reset computer and relearned idle several times, ok for a while then starts stalling routinely again. What to do next? Owner, driver, wife is getting frustrated with the big money spent to no avail to date and I am worried it will stall at a dangerous time, when she is driving. She loves the car - has had it for 20 years and wants to keep it. I need it to be safe and reliable for her.
1992 Pontiac Firebird 3.1L, Auto, Air
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My 1992 Buick Century frequently shuts down when coming to a stop or slowing down to make a sharp corner. I'm always able to restart it. I thought it was a torque converter lockup problem, but my transmission specialist said the transmission is okay. Last month, after the car died completely, I had the crankshaft sensor and harmonic balancer replaced by Firestone. Could it be the same parts that malfunctioned? Or, could it be another issue?
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I have a quick torque converter question. I have a '92 F-250, 351W, E4OD. When I come to a stop the engine dies. I know it is the torque converter clutch staying engaged. I do have a TCC code stored. I'm wondering if there is a way to disconnect the TCC so it never goes into lock-up, since it only seems to happen after I've reached higher speeds and it goes into lock-up. I thought maybe a wire from the PCM to disconnect? I have All-data access, but it doesn't have wiring diagrams for the trans. Which wire, color and pin number, and if this will work? I know it's not the proper repair, but I have $17 into this truck, it's pretty rotted, and I'm just looking to get by until spring. I don't drive much, but occasionally I need to get somewhere.
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I have a 92 accord lx that has been giving my endless hours of trouble. at 2 thousand rpm the engine chugs like its missing, but it only does this at exactly two thousand rpm. It also revs up when i put my foot on the clutch to shift. when it does this it stays at about three thousand rpm for several seconds before dropping rapidly back down to normal idle. I have just rebuilt the engine from the block up, changed the clutch, cleaned the E.G.R. port, put a new fast idle thermo valve on, new ignition system, new E.C.U., and much more.
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1994 Ford Explorer; When I start it, if I don't step on the gas it will stop. If I give it some gas when I start it, the engine will race and then decelerates about 2000 rpms and keeps doing this, it does get better as the engine warms up. But the idle is really rough. It has new wires, plugs, vacume lines, oil change, air filter and battery. If I put the gas pedal to the rug, it will go from 4000rpm back down to 2000rpm and continue doing this as long as I keep the pedal to the metal. I had it put on an analyzer and it didn't read anything.
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I have a 2003 ford Explorer xlt v8 4.6 with a P2197 code.(02 sensor bank2 sensor1)...
I had code P2195 a few months ago and replaced that 02 sensor but just recently truck threw code P2197 and is now starting to idle surge when I stop at a light or just leave it running in park.
Replaced PCV valve and the hose that goes from pcv valve to IAC also replaced Fuel Filter. Cleaned IAC, Throttle Body and MAF did the old check for vacuum leaks with can of carb cleaner nothing found.
Pulled all coil packs off checked OHMs all read .6,coil boots looked to be in good shape going to replace spark plugs and 02 sensor.
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Just purchased a 99 passat v6 and it has a low idle surge and stalls when coming to a stop.It runs fine until it heats up about 15 min. then it surges up and down and stalls.
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Like the title says, 89 Chevy G20 V8 5.7l. When coming to a stop or in idle while in drive the van will shut off. Here are the symptoms.1. When driving below 10MPH the oil pressure gauge will drop to 0 and then the van shuts off.2. When starting the van a nice white plume of smoke comes out of the exhaust.3. Van had been chugging a bit when stopped and the AC was on. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator today thinking that possibly the engine was getting flooded when slowing down, but that did not fix the problem.
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I have had my golf R for 7 months now and ever sense I got tuned I have had this little issue. Besides this the car is amazing but ever now and then the car while coming to a stop and put it in natural to come to a stop the idle will go to 500 then come back up to 1200 then rest at 800. I'm getting my PCV replaced tomorrow. I'm um stage 2 tune fully loaded with Bsh intake full 3" exhaust.
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ive actually owned 4 volkswagens one of which was a 2002 big turbo gti which made 325whp..... so now i have a 2005 Jetta GLI with about 41k on it. This car has a serious idle problem. Start up is fine and it runs great and hits boost perfect. It has a 6 speed, APR chip intake, forge DV, and DP. When i come to a traffic light and come to a complete stop after about 10 seconds it hiccups and the idle drops to abou 600 and then back up to normal idle. It will also do it if i just leave the car running in neutral it will randomly stutter. I have new spark plugs and new fuel injectors and i only use 93.
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I have a 1999 f-150 4x4 4.6 5spd manual 180,000 miles on the clock. My question is, when coming to a stop i push the clutch in an the idle hangs at about twice what it should be until i come to a complete stop then it drops to normal. It's not like somethings sticking cause it will stay at the high idle as long as were rolling but as soon as the wheels stop turning it drops down.
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My 1997 Explorer with a 5.0 will surge making the truck lunge forward unexpectedly. If I drop it into neutral the RPMs drop right down.
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My extremely used Explorer was driven off the lot, and ran like a champ for 3 months. One morning, I started it up, and noticed a chugging sound. While backing it out of the driveway, the truck felt like it was going to rattle apart. This was a sudden change. When I hit about 40mph, and I'm in 3rd gear, the truck hesitates and chugs along. If I stomp on the accelerator, the truck will kick into 2nd gear, and stops chuging for a second, then the gear changes back to 3rd and the hesitation starts again. If I disconnect the battery for a few minutes, then connect, I can drive normally for about 10 minutes, then back to the surging/hesitation. I've heard this might be a problem with the oxygen sensors or the mass air flow sensor.
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I purchased a used 2002 Camry [above model] with 99K miles on it in March, 2009. This is my 3rd Camry as the first, 1986 had 256K and the 1997 had 252K. I was very pleased with the 86 & 97 and very displeased with this new one!
I have problems with the engaging stalling, surging at stop signs as well as problems at about 40 mph.
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I have a '99 E350 Ford van, V10, with 300K that runs like a charm until I slow down to stop. It begins to surge which will stop when I shift to neutral. I went to the local parts store and put it on their code reader. It only read 'left bank lean'. Nothing else.
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My car has about 180K miles on it and it's a manual transmission. It's a champ, and I love it. But sometimes when you first drive it ( not sure if it's only when the weather is cold, but I don't think so) if you are sitting at a stop with your foot on the brake then engine surges up and down, if you take your foot off the brake it stops.
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The truck runs fine and gets the same fuel mileage that it always did and there are no codes...It has the Allison transmission and the Duramax 6.6 and it is a 2005 model C4500 Top Kick capacity 15000lbs. The truck has 254780 miles on it. I can minimize the surging by putting Marvel Mystery Oil in the diesel. Some times it is worst than others ...Sometimes it goes away altogether...Sometimes it will go away if i shift it out of drive at a stoplight.....It happens the worst when I have been at speed for a hundred miles or more or less. Very mysterious...The computer must be sensing a fault and speeding up the idle a hundred rpms .....
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Surging at idle computer check ( at Oreilys) says TPS is faulty. Also using water replaced water pump still leaking. We cannot see any obvious leaks.
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