Expedition :: 2000 - Sometimes Won't Start
Feb 25, 2005
Having a real headache with my Expedition. After doing short journey's will park up the car, come back and it won't start. The dashboard lights are on everything seems ok but the engine won't even turnover. Leave it for about 45mins+, it stars immediately. The mornings are no problem at all it starts first turn.
It is now going into the Ford Dealers for the 3rd time, 1st they cut me new keys was fine for 5days problem returned, 2nd they replaced a new ground cable was great for 22days then same old problem returned. They ran a diagnostic test and everything was working fine.
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OK. I'm getting a P301 code on the OBD in my 2000 Expedition (5.4 L). Already replaced plugs x 8, coils x 8, & fuel injectors. Still have rough idle when it starts up, usually for a few minutes & then it's mostly OK. Maybe a small rumble now & then when @ a red light, etc. Replacing fuel filter & all 4 o2 sensors tomorrow.
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On my 2000 E.B. I have NO A/C at all. All vents on the dash, regardless of vent, floor, defrost, ETC all blow hot air, even with the A/C on Max A/C. Also, all the rear vents for the rear HVC blow WARM air as well. I have no A/C in the back either. I don't hear any flopping around under the dash going down the road and I have checked the A/C compressor with the unit on Max A/C and the clutch appears to be engaged and the compressor appears to be operating normally.
I have NOT YET checked the A/C lines or dryer to see if they get cold, I will check that tonight, but I expect them to be getting cold because the Compressor does not cycle on and off, it stays running pretty much all the time. It clicks off once and again, but not very often at all (such as the case would be if the system was low on freon).
So, if the A/C lines are getting cold (if they are not, I will know my problem is compressor related, likely anyway), what this problem could be? From what I've read, if the Front blows hot, yet the rear blows cold, it's a blend door actuator or broken blend door, but that is not my problem. I have no A/C at all, everything blows hot.
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I started feeling a slightly rough idle three days ago and yesterday the check engine light illuminated. When we read the OBD, it indicated a Cyl #1 misfire. Question is this. Can I replace a single coil pack (1/cyl), or do I ahve to replace all 8 as a set and why? 2000 Ford Expedition 5.4 L cyl misfire.....
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I'm chasing a SES light on my mothers expedition. It had bank 1/2 lean and the 4 o2 sensor codes. So I put a fuel pressure gauge on it. At idle it fluctuated between 31-35 (rose and fell with a rough idle) as engine rise/falls. Rev it up to 15-1700 an pressure falls to 29-30, unplug the regulator and it pegs at 40 no matter idle-2000 rpm... does those numbers sound right?
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When i turn my heater on, the ac come on instead. It does not matter what position any of the dials are on as soon as I turn the blower on the ac comes on. I do not see anything obviously wrong with the controls. All turn as they should nothing is striped. I have the 3 dial control setup no auto heater controls at all. and nothing is digital.
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2000 Expedition AWD, 4.6l ... 150K on car, 50K on trans, 150k on transfer case and most else.
The problem is, under load, there is a intermittent bearing vibration noise...it sounds like a roller bearing that has too much tolerance so it vibrates in and out under acceleration. You can feel it in the gas pedal and chassis, you can hear it, and it robs a little power when the sound it pronounced. The sound is 10x worst when towing my 6000lb boat. Gear doesn't seem to matter, but it is hard to make it happen in 3rd gear.
Diagnostics so far:
-Can't reproduce sound on rack or out of gear
-Stethoscoped all accessories - good
-added Lucas oil additive to engine oil - no change
-added Duralube high mileage goop to trans - no change/slight change?
-Aamco said it was transfer case, tear down and inspection revealed nothing, they said it was mostly pristine for a car with 150K on it.
-Inspected U-joints - all tight
The duralube in the transmission may have made a slight difference in the frequency of the sound...but it could be my imagination, it wasn't significant enough a change to be determinate.
I think I could isolate the issue with a diagnostic tool that doesn't exist as far as I know...it would be a handheld device with 4 magnetic mic sensors you could stick in various locations and watch the waveform output on the handheld... you would simply move the mic's around until you got the highest amplitude on the readout.
At this point the only thing I can think of:
-Aamco missed something
-Main bearings, cam bearings, or possibly oil pump
-Transmission bearing (Aamco says "NOT")
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I had my SUV (2000 Ford Expedition) tuned up. I'm losing about 1-2 quarts of coolant every couple of days. While I was having the tune up done, I asked the mech to try to find where the coolant is going. He couldn't. He did say that they'd pumped the system up to 18 lbs (it's got a 16 lb cap) and it held for 45 minutes, so I'm a little (little-little) less afraid that it's my head gasket. Questions are these:
1. Could my 16 lb cap be at fault? It got pretty gunky when I mixed the coolants (see my post - Don't cross the streams).
2. Could my rear heat exchanger be leaking and where would the coolant come out? It's got rear air and heat that's controllable form the second seat.
I never see water on the ground or dripping. No white exhaust to detect. Doesn't run rough at all at startup. In other words, none of the traditional head gasket indicators.
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2000 Expedition. If speeds are under 40 mph and the air temp is above 85, my AC does not seem to work well. On the highway, it seems to work very well. Recently replaced with no change in performance:
Fan clutch
Water pump
Radiator
I've also degreased and hosed out the condenser. The AC system has been checked (by a friend with a set of gauges- but is not a professional) and a small amount of refrigerant was added. Still no improvement. Any obvious other things to check?
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I have a 00 expedition 4wheel drive eddie bauer. 100k miles. New tires, recent alignment, new upper ball joints and tie rod ends, recent suspension change over to passive system with new shocks. Also must note I have "newer" front wheel bearings but they were from advance auto and not the suggested Moog ones.
I have a loud clicking noise at slow speeds. def sounds like its coming from the front area. Speeds up and slows down with acceleration. brakes do not change noise other than slow it down with tires. The truck also vibrates on the highway. I notice the tires are wearing (cupping)
Is it the cheap wheel bearings? what is the best way to test for bad wheel bearings? i think they are under warranty if I can find the receipt. Anything else i should test? can it be c/v joints or something?
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Having a problem with my 2000 Expedition AWD/4WD. When I'm braking to a stop, there's a metallic clicking coming from my LR wheel. Doesn't matter if brakes are applied or it's rolling free. Starts at about 8 mph and stops at around 2-3. Had a broken parking brake cable, but clicking is still there after replacement. What's next? Wheel speed sensor, perhaps?
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It seems when the roads are wet, snow melting, when I turn off engine and get back in, it won't start....usually have to wait at least a half hour before it will start....what would be getting wet?
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I just replaced my fuel pump and sending unit in my 1999 Expedition and my truck still wont start.
Relays and fuses are all good.
Fuel safety shut off is not switched.
What the problem is?
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My husband's 2000 Ford Expedition has 94K miles and has been very well maintained. For the past few months, it's been having intermittent ignition problems. It'll start up fine for a few days, and then suddenly will need several-to-many attempts in order to start. Engine cranks every time, but won't catch. A few times it has taken over 10 min to get it started, and on occasion we've had to take our other vehicle instead. My son and I spent 15 creepy minutes in a dark parking lot the other night trying to get the truck to start.
It's in the Ford repair shop for the third time in a month now (last time was for 4 days), and the shop has been unable to replicate the problem enough to diagnose it. (The two times when it wouldn't start for them was when they DIDN'T have it hooked up to fuel-system test equipment.) I'm getting the sense they just want us to go away quietly and buy a new vehicle, but this one is the type we like...paid for! The problem occurs at various times of day...in various types of weather...when truck is hot, cold, or in between...gas tank at different levels...we can't find a common denominator, and all other diagnostics come back fine. The only slightly creepy suggestion the shop had was that maybe someone poured sugar in the gas tank..
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Replace oem bulbs with either HID or led? What was required? How did they preform compared to original?
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2000 ranger auto 3.0 wife said that she had problems starting the truck
She had wiggle the shifter to get it to start. Have not looked at it yet but i am think the newtrl safety Switch.
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I don't know what it is but it comes on when the air is turned on inside the truck. Heat or A/C doesn't matter and its coming from rear passenger side by the window under the plastic molding. I thought it was a secondary blend door but as I know it the truck only has one.
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Wife drove her truck yesterday and not one issue... Today she has no brakes. I checked the fluid and I'm going to try and bleed the brakes but would like to know what else I need to check>
I was in her truck yesterday going to church.. so I don't get it. The brakes push all the way down to the floor.. When you pump them they seem to build pressure but loose it..
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At 60mph and above there is an odd sound coming from the front of my wife's 2004 expo. Now I think its the half shaft bearing but I can't be certain. I took the tire off and nothing was obvious?
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Not sure if it's transmission issues, on the road it took me to a neighbor city with no issues, but on my way back, while running it went from 70mph to 57-60mph and it won't let me go faster, it will not rev up more than 2000rpms, if i step further on the gas it will struggle to rev up, it will, but speed won't go faster, engine just had been rebuilt, it has no catalytic converters. I live in mexico, instead it has 2 "silencers" which were just installed as well since it was making a lot of noise through the exhaust.
Been driving it in the city, (no more than 35mph) with no problems at all, all gears feel great, but haven't tried to go up to 60mph again. Expedition XLT 1998 4x4 ....
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When my 1999 Ford Expedition is turned off and sitting there, even for hours, the defrosting fan comes on by itself. I can feel cold air coming through the vents inside the car. The fan will turn off if I turn on the key or even if I step on the brake pedal, with the car still off. It won't stay off until I disconnect the battery. It seems to occur only when the temperature drops, like below freezing (coincidence??).
The other day, I left the fan running for several hours, it never turned off, I then disconnected the battery. It ran the battery down. Randomly/intermittently the dashboard clock, windshield wiper, or radio won't work when the car is running. I recently bought a new battery . I recently replaced the outside mirrors. Also, the passenger side window won't go up or down using the passenger side control but will using the drivers side control.
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