Expedition :: 2000 AWD - Intermittent Bearing Vibration Noise Under Load
May 31, 2012
2000 Expedition AWD, 4.6l ... 150K on car, 50K on trans, 150k on transfer case and most else.
The problem is, under load, there is a intermittent bearing vibration noise...it sounds like a roller bearing that has too much tolerance so it vibrates in and out under acceleration. You can feel it in the gas pedal and chassis, you can hear it, and it robs a little power when the sound it pronounced. The sound is 10x worst when towing my 6000lb boat. Gear doesn't seem to matter, but it is hard to make it happen in 3rd gear.
Diagnostics so far:
-Can't reproduce sound on rack or out of gear
-Stethoscoped all accessories - good
-added Lucas oil additive to engine oil - no change
-added Duralube high mileage goop to trans - no change/slight change?
-Aamco said it was transfer case, tear down and inspection revealed nothing, they said it was mostly pristine for a car with 150K on it.
-Inspected U-joints - all tight
The duralube in the transmission may have made a slight difference in the frequency of the sound...but it could be my imagination, it wasn't significant enough a change to be determinate.
I think I could isolate the issue with a diagnostic tool that doesn't exist as far as I know...it would be a handheld device with 4 magnetic mic sensors you could stick in various locations and watch the waveform output on the handheld... you would simply move the mic's around until you got the highest amplitude on the readout.
At this point the only thing I can think of:
-Aamco missed something
-Main bearings, cam bearings, or possibly oil pump
-Transmission bearing (Aamco says "NOT")
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2000 3.5L
On a hard left high speed turn, it vibrates under load. Also while under throttle when making a second gear left hand turn.
Noise will come and go when going over dips at high speeds under load. I have already replaced the left Half shaft.
I am a master mechanic and have had success with changing a half shaft on a similar situation. Looking for other possibilities before I throw another half shaft at it.
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I have a 00 expedition 4wheel drive eddie bauer. 100k miles. New tires, recent alignment, new upper ball joints and tie rod ends, recent suspension change over to passive system with new shocks. Also must note I have "newer" front wheel bearings but they were from advance auto and not the suggested Moog ones.
I have a loud clicking noise at slow speeds. def sounds like its coming from the front area. Speeds up and slows down with acceleration. brakes do not change noise other than slow it down with tires. The truck also vibrates on the highway. I notice the tires are wearing (cupping)
Is it the cheap wheel bearings? what is the best way to test for bad wheel bearings? i think they are under warranty if I can find the receipt. Anything else i should test? can it be c/v joints or something?
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I have a 2000 f250 crew cab short bed 7.3 on a 6inch bds lift and 37 inch tires. When I accelerate pretty much any load above 1200 rpms I can feel a vibration, kinda feels like it may be coming from the front left but I'm not sure. I have heard that a wheel bearing going out can cause this, would this maybe be what's causing it?
I thought wheel bearing because it kind of sounds like there's a howl when decelerating, probably when accelerating as well but the trucks too loud and I can't hear it. or also have heard motor mount gone bad, I've also heard ujoints but the ujoints were done this summer. the front ujoint is bad but the front driveshaft shouldn't be turning when out of 4x4 and hubs unlocked.
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I ran about 500 miles today loaded up pretty good and noticed every bump I hit that was enough to rock the truck and trailer that there was a noise I've never heard before. It was like the difference between asphalt and concrete road surfaces, but was only present when the springs were sufficiently compressed. Temps were between -10 when I left to 10 or so above when I was destinated. Would that cause the noise?
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I have a 2010 Explorer XLT that I bought in 8/2012 with 7,000 miles on it. I had had a problem with a groaning noise and slight vibration starting at 34 mph, under load. I don't hear the noise if I let off the gas at 34. I hear it a little past 35 or so and it doesn't seem to groan again until about 60 mph or so. I also have a feeling of the all wheel drive engaging when I back out of the driveway, put it in drive and turn the wheel slightly.
I took it to the dealer this week under warranty and he calls me today and says the tires are worn differently all around and that is causing the problem. He says the tires could be out as much as, or as little as 1/16 of an inch and that is what is causing the all wheel drive to catch and also the groaning noise. I understand what he is saying, but I can't believe that is the problem or more would have been written about it.
I asked the guys about rotating the tires and he said it would not matter, it would just take the problem from one end of the vehicle to the other. These tires are not worn like the truck is out of alignment, it is just normal wear. It now has about 21k on the odometer. What do you all think of this diagnoses? The guy says the PTU thinks it needs the all wheel drive and therefore engages it. This truck can also be manually put in 4 wheel drive by flipping the switch.
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I have a 2000 f150 lariat. Mo problem started about 2 weeks ago. Around town its fine but when I go over 50 mph it feels like I'm driving down the rumble strips on the highway and after a couple miles it just smooths out and its fine! Yesterday I went on the interstate and it did the same but this time I ran up to 85 and the vibration stopped.
I had another motor put in about 2 months ago, #4, and he changed my rear u joint as well. I replaced the rear passenger side wheel bearing a couple months ago but there seemed like a little play in the axle still but not bad. I've been to the dealer and a few other mechanics but it doesn't do it all the time and they couldn't find what is wrong.
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My rearmost drive shaft u-joint is bad and has slop. I've been having vibration for about 7-8 months, but just started hearing a noise within the past week, especially when taking off with a load on the drive line (uphill or heavy acceleration). The vibration has not gotten worse, just that the noise has just begun to show itself.
I have one u-joint which is OE and has 275K miles on it, and it seems to be OK at the moment. The other two (including the rearmost unit) both have about 100K miles, as does the center support bearing.
Just because I don't want to worry about anything, I'm going to replace all three u-joints with Moog Super Strength units, and will also replace the Center Bearing with a new Spicer unit... just because I can and don't want to be pecked to death with multiple failures in the same drive line. I ordered the Moog joints because the only Spicer joints I could find were for the 4wd configuration.
That's the context... here's my question... The parts are on order and won't get here for several days. I've been driving the truck like it is at about 1500 miles monthly. Do I continue to drive the truck for another week before getting the joints and bearing installed? I know it's a guess... just looking for more perspective.
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2000 Explorer making what I would call a bearing humm. I have replaced both front wheel bearings over the past year. When I jack up the front and check for play everything is tight, I don't get any noise by spinning the tires. While driving I put the tranny in neutral and still get the hummm sound, so I don't think it is the tranny.
The sound definitely changes with the speed of the car. Turning the wheel or engaging the transfer case do not change the sound. I have had my son crawl around the car while I'm driving and he said the sound is not coming from the back, for sure the front but can't tell if it is specific to one side of the other.
Where do I go from here? This is my daughters daily driver and its been a great car, 148000 miles and no issues at all so far. I would like to figure it out so I can feel good about her driving the car.
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Noise sounds like its coming from driver's side. It's not terrible until you hit 30-40km/h, after that its quite loud. No whistling sounds, which i was told to listen for if it were a wheel bearing (although I ma not convinced is the only sound a warn bearing makes).
The sound sometimes goes away when I am on a bend turning left (taking the weight off the drivers side wheel).
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My husband's 2000 Ford Expedition has 94K miles and has been very well maintained. For the past few months, it's been having intermittent ignition problems. It'll start up fine for a few days, and then suddenly will need several-to-many attempts in order to start. Engine cranks every time, but won't catch. A few times it has taken over 10 min to get it started, and on occasion we've had to take our other vehicle instead. My son and I spent 15 creepy minutes in a dark parking lot the other night trying to get the truck to start.
It's in the Ford repair shop for the third time in a month now (last time was for 4 days), and the shop has been unable to replicate the problem enough to diagnose it. (The two times when it wouldn't start for them was when they DIDN'T have it hooked up to fuel-system test equipment.) I'm getting the sense they just want us to go away quietly and buy a new vehicle, but this one is the type we like...paid for! The problem occurs at various times of day...in various types of weather...when truck is hot, cold, or in between...gas tank at different levels...we can't find a common denominator, and all other diagnostics come back fine. The only slightly creepy suggestion the shop had was that maybe someone poured sugar in the gas tank..
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4 cylinder car engine that doesn't shake like a tractor at idle ? I've got a 3 cylinder tractor that idles smoother.
I like my Elantra except for the tire/road noise and the intermittent BAD vibration at idle. It shakes the whole car. Odd that it doesn't do it all the time. AC seems to make it worse......sometimes. I think I can fix the road noise with different tires but fear that the dealer is going to say:" Nothing wrong. They all shake like that at idle."
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I have an engine noise on my 2000 Dodge Caravan with the 3.3 engine. It sounds a lot like the grinding of a rotating part. It occurs at start up, momentarily, then goes away. If I drop it in gear and start doing low speed maneuvering in the driveway, it comes back. If I turn on the AC it comes back. In all cases, the noise goes away at around 1200 rpm.
The noise occurs again, when I shut the engine down.The engine performs and runs smooth and normal otherwise. No stalling, stumbling, or bad gas mileage to report.
I can "feel" the noise with my hand, when I put my hand on the ac compressor bracket, or the intake manifold, or the valve cover. I've tried the listening through the stick method, and it seems to be coming from the front area of the engine. But I can't be sure. It is something internal. Let me describe:
I thought it was my AC compressor or clutch going bad. The fact that my AC had stopped working well, and was making jet engine noises at high rpm supported me decide this. I replaced the compressor. The AC works great now, and the jet engine noises went away. But the grinding noise is still there. As described.
I wishfully thought it was the belt tensioner or idler pulley. I replaced both of those. Noise still was there. I pulled off the serpentine belt, and started the engine. It made the noise, very briefly as it started, then went away completely. It made the noise again briefly as I shut the motor off. So it's still there without any of the accessories turning.
The noise is loud and obnoxious at idle when under load. It just can't be good. I've read theories about similar sounding problems, saying they could be loose timing chain, bad oil pump, slapping pistons, crank journals, flexplate/flywheels cracked.
I'm going to try doing an oil system flush, and then I'll change it out with a little thicker oil. See if that makes any difference in the noise. Currently I'm running 5w-30 Mobile 1. I think. I'll let you know if it changes anything. I'm also thinking I want to make a short video of the car idling and making the noise for my video camera. I'll post that on youtube and link it here.
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So on my girlfriends 2000 echo I get the classic bad wheel bearing noise/vibration on the front left (driver side) wheel. Worsens under load (right turn) and goes away when unloaded (left turn). I've replaced left side bearing, CV axle, brake rotors/pads and the noise still persists. My next thought is maybe the ball joint but humming/vibration tells me something out of rotational balance. Bearing in the transmission? I don't know. I'm stuck.
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I replaced all the bearings and put in a rebuilt transmission and still have bearing like noise , seems like the front, directly increasing with speed . Same in neutral, no change with turning or breaking. Getting worse over the past few months.
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My son just changed my oil, radiator fluid & transmission fluid on my 2007 Prius with 125,000 miles. Now it makes a fairly quiet, intermittent pumping or quiet growling/humming noise. A vibration can be felt near the driver's left foot when the noise is heard. The noise starts about a minute or two after starting the car & goes on & off, about every 30 seconds, for the entire time the car is running or driving. The car seems to drive normally, although I've only driven it a few miles, a few times. The only unusual dash light is the "maintenance required" indicator which has been on since before the fluid changes.
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Chasing this knock and I'm starting to get a little bit worried. So I'm looking for what I should do next.
Here is the truck info... 2000 F250 4x4 206k. . Swamps Diesel 200/30's. Terminator HPOP. GTP38R. EBPV delete pedestal. Banks wastegate. AFE stage 2 intake. RiffRaff FRX. 4" exhaust. Hydra chip. John Wood Auto. 6.0 Trans cooler.
I have a knock sound coming from the area of #8. It is noticeably louder in that area with a stethoscope. Its not any louder anywhere else (oil pan, block, otherside of engine, or front). Truck does not smoke and runs and idles great otherwise. Was thinking possibly the cackle/fuel knock issue these trucks have but with bigger injectors and the FRX could this even still be a possibility?! Anyways here is what I've done.
Checked fuel pressure and at idle it is 61/62 with any tune. At WOT on Econ tune it goes down to ~40ish psi. With the extreme tune WOT dived down to 28/29psi. So my thinking was maybe that injector got screwed up so...
Swapped #8 injector with #2 so the front injector with the back to see if either it had some bad o rings or isolate the injector as the problem if the noise moved cylinders with the injector. While I did this I put brand new O-Rings on those two injectors and popped them in. Got it fired up and the knock is still in #8.
Unplugging the injector with the engine running the noise seems to disappear. HOWEVER, when I use the stethoscope the knocking noise still sounds like it's there but very faint. Without the stethoscope I can't hear it. Also driving the truck down the freeway and letting it coast the noise goes away when the injectors get cut off.
Recently pulled off valve cover and checked the pushrods and rockers on #8 and all looked fine. At this point I'm thinking wrist pin, rod bearing or cracked piston??? Could it somehow still be a fuel knock?
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Upon moderate to hard acceleration I hear an intermittent spinning-like vibration noise from the rear diff area...is that normal?
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I bought a 2000 F250 V10 Super Cab. Oddly after a few weeks it has grown on me. There has been a clunking noise out of the right front over bumps. I traced it to a bad axle bearing. The u joint moves up and down about a 1/2 inch. Besides pulling the hub/bearing assembly out and removing the axle are there any surprises getting the old bearing out?
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I've a 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo, 3.4 L engine, 110K miles. The cooling fan is making a intermittent loud noise for some reason or another. Can the motors be purchased separately or will I have to buy the entire cooling fan assembly? Also, could this be a bearing problem? The fan doesn't appear to be rubbing against anything. The fan is running after the engine is turn off although the engine wasn't real hot.................driven under 15 miles and fan came on and stayed on after turning off engine but finally stopped running.
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I drive a fixer-upper 2000 Miata SE. When I turn in reverse, like to get out of a parking spot, I get this awful, intermittent scraping noise. Imagine a sci-fi movie where some ancient rusted megabot stands up for the first time in 1,000 years - that's basically the noise. I'm thinking the most likely culprits are the LSD and the steering column. But it only happens in reverse, which doesn't fit with the steering column theory (I think), and it sounds like it's coming from the front, which doesn't fit with the LSD.
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