I have a 2002 ZX2 Escort Automatic and after driving it one morning, that night it wouldn't go after putting it in gear, all that happened was the rpm would go up than after a lil bit the car wouldn't move. I Noticed fluid all over the ground and didn't think nothing of it, anyway what to do?
View 4 RepliesI've got a 2011 tiguan SEL 4motion and occasionally it feels like after starting the car and putting it in D (typically only when it's moved right into D) it seems to feel like the transmissions is repeatedly trying to get into gear. It doesn't seem to effect being able to drive off just seemed odd and kind of annoying. Or like the torque converter was locking and unlocking repeatedly.
I've also felt the same occasional jolt while sitting at a stop. I'll be bringing the car in for a 40k soon and will be having them check it out, but thought I'd see if this was a typical thing.
I have a 1992 Ford Escort. It's a junker (literally - it has a recovered title, the car having been totaled at some time in the past), but it gets me around. Or, it did.
The battery went dead a while back, and I'd been using the wife's car. She had to be out of town, so I got a new battery. Car started right up, but I couldn't get the transmission out of Park. I think there are switches to make sure that the brake is on, etc., that have to be made before the car can be put into gear. Is there anything I can do? Where are these switches? Obviously, I can't drive the car to a shop, and I'd prefer not to have it towed unless there's no alternative.
Five months ago I purchased a Saturn with 60,000 miles. Yesterday upon leaving my driveway it wouldn't shift out of first gear. Turned around , put it in the garage & tried to backup, put it in reverse & the vehicle would not move and the tranny made a loud whine. For the past two weeks the tranny made a loud " clunk " when it shifted into second, also on the highway it wouldn't shift into high gear & was running at 2500 rpm. Is this an electronic issue or more ?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1996 escort wagon with strange auto transmission behavior. Sometimes during the summer months but mostly during the winter; the transmission will start off in 3rd gear from a stop and won't go any higher or lower. If I drive it around for a while, it will suddenly shift into 4th then the transmission will act normally for a while then for no reason will just suddenly start off in 3rd gear from a dead stop. It has been doing this for about 8 months now. 146k miles. I have tried shifting through all the gears manually. It will drop down into first when I put the lever there, but when I move the lever back up into drive, it goes right back into 3rd.
View 1 RepliesThe other day my transmission was driving fine, until I stopped to let someone out. When I tried to throw it back into gear, it wouldn't engage at all, just had a slight grind almost like the sound of a chain coming off a bike (so I pushed back in the clutch and parked it). I haven't been having any issues with it nor have I been driving it hard.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 Explorer 4.0 4x4 with 130,000 miles. The vehicle will not move while in 2 WD or in 4H. No engagement at all. However it will engage in 4L (reverse and drive). It also makes no sound from transfer case when I try to shift from auto 4x4 to 4H. 4L engages and is a bitch to get out of 4L once it's engaged. Changed tranny fluid and filter with no change. Really need this truck fixed, and by me if at all possible.
View 3 RepliesThis happen to me last year when it got cold out it goes in all the gears and when I let off the clutch it makes a grinding noise and won't move at all so I left it sit for the rest off the winter and when all the snow was gone I started it up put it in gear, let off the clutch and it started moving. I drove it all summer and now the cold weather is back it doing it again, what it might be.
View 1 RepliesI need removing the console on a 2005 Malibu Max. The switch on the shifter will not move the transmission down to 2nd or 1st gear. There was a post by "shadow5599" on 05-05-2009 stating that this problem was caused by a broken wire in the harness under the console leading to the shifter +/- switch. He said it was easy to fix but the console needed to be removed. Later on the same day he posted that he had just posted the instructions on how to remove it. I'm a first time user on this site and I haven't been able to locate those instructions.
View 1 RepliesI own a 2004 Sable with 55361 miles. I purchased the car used with 16,658 miles on it along with an extended warranty. July 24, 2012, my car was towed to a transmission shop, due to the fact, that the car would not move, in any gear. A phone car from the transmission shop, stated that I needed a new transmission, & alternator. I have always taken my car in for routine maintenance. Needless to say I was not happy with the finds. I searched the internet, to see if there were other consumers having the same issues, and there were. Are you telling me that Ford, can't make a product to go past 55,361 miles without breaking down. I have always purchased American, but not that will change.
View 6 RepliesI am just about committed to purchasing a 1997 Ford E350 extended cargo van with the 5.4. The transmission shifts through all the gears nice and firm (reverse also works). The only issue with the van is the column selector lever is very hard to move between the entire range of PRND21. It also does not "click" into the selected positions, you have to just line up the pointer to the desired gear selection.
Is this a complete deal breaker (internal transmission issue/replacement necessary) or, is it something relatively simple (such as a worn selector cable). The owner did admit the van has been sitting for sometime. It has 134,000 miles on it.
I have a '90 Bonneville SSE and after coming to a stop at a red light on the highway, when the light turned green the car wouldn't move forward. There were no odd noises, the car had been in cruise control and there had been no problems up to that point. The car shifted crisply, there was no obvious slippage or hesitation going into gear.
I can feel the car engage in both drive and reverse, but it won't move at all.
My LS460 is in the shop for the valve spring recall. When I dropped off the car they gave me a 2011 RX350. That evening I went out to dinner with my wife, daughter, mother in law, and father in law. While heading to dinner we had to stop hard at a red light. The strange thing is when the RX came to a complete stop the traction control light came on for about 10 seconds. During this time when I took my foot off of the brake, the car wouldn't move. I don't know why it did that.
View 10 RepliesIs it possible that my break pedal was frozen this morning? I pulled out and drove the 1/4 mile up my shared driveway. When I tried to stop at the top of the road, my break pedal wouldn't move. I think the van that I pulled out in front of was just as surprised as I was! It was 12 degrees here, but I've never heard of such a thing.
View 2 RepliesOn my 2012 Avalon, moving shifter to the left of "D" for manual mode causes a downshift to 4th gear. Is it supposed to do this? For me, this would be poor design in that I may be setting up to pass, but not quite ready to downshift to 5th yet. And even going 60mph it still gets 4th... Or I may be going to climb a mountain (as I was going to Colorado last week) and only need 5th, not 4th. So I have to upshift to 5th AFTER I move to manual mode..
View 7 RepliesI have taken my 2004 Pruis into the Toyota dealership and have been told that there is nothing wrong with my car and it is safe to drive. Here is what is happening.
Sometimes when I start my car and put the car into gear, which you are not supposed to be able to do without your foot on the brake, the car will start rolling before I take my foot off of the brake. I am on level ground when this happens, and I am positive I have my foot firmly on the brake. My first inclination is to push harder on the brake, which does nothing. If I take my foot off of the brake and then reapply it, then the brakes will work and the car will stop.
After this happened a few times, I started paying more careful attention. Whenever this happens, the ABS light is on. When I take my foot off of the brake, the ABS light goes off, and as I said, the brakes work normally.
Furthermore, this only happens if I have been sitting in my parked car for a few minutes with the engine off. It does not happen if I am getting into the car after being away for a few minutes, it only happens if I sit in the car for a few minutes and then turn the car back on to go somewhere.
This is, of course, not only irritating, but unsafe. It can be easy, if you are distracted, to have the car roll into someone or something if you are looking away, thinking that even though you put the car into gear, it will not go anywhere because it is not supposed to go anywhere, you have your foot on the brake!!!!
My issues: when I'm on gear 1 for example, on hot days, and only on hot days ( 25 deg.c and more) when I put it on neutral it suppose to go at "home" position ( i think this is how you guys call it, like align with the 3rd gear) But it stays align the the first.
Same with all the gears. It's stays aligned with the gear I just left.
I have a 92 2wd with a 5.7 and it keeps getting way to hot. I have changed the water pump, Thermostat (fail safe), and heater core and had the entire system flushed. and it is still getting really hot. If is is in park it does not get hot, but when i put it in gear it gets over the half way mark in just a couple minutes. I have noticed that it has an after market transmission cooler to me it looks to small for a my truck it is a 12in square and 3/4in thick. The radiator has the holes for the Transmission lines but they have been pluged off. Should I go back to a factory setup and flush the lines or upgrade the size of the cooler? and is there a way for me to flush the transmission lines myself?
View 5 RepliesOutside of lawnmowers, this is my first carbureted engine. I have always fixed stuff that broke on the vehicles I've owned, and done some difficult (for me) task such as replacing a timing belt on a honda, and mcpherson strutts and a head gasket on a 4 cylinder SAAB.
I'm the new owner of a '68 F100 that was originally a 3 on the tree inline six. It's been converted to an FE390 with an automatic transmission (C6 I believe). It has an edelbrock 1411 (750CFM). I've recently got it running at idle of it's own gas tank. This is the list of work I've performed since getting it.
Replaced:
old gas
old oil
brake master cylinder
old dot3
plugs and wires
I also added 3-4 quarts of F-type tranny fluid.
Related to the Carb all i've done is removed it and dumped some carb cleaner in the bowls.
The Problem is:
Car starts and idles fine. When I drop it into any gear, the engine bogs down and begins to idle much slower. If i feather the gas pedal, or punch it, the engine dies.
I'm told that the carburetor had some components replaced (springs/jets) to make it run properly, so my guess is that it is closer to a 1407 now, just with electronic choke. I'm intimidated by tearing the carb apart and attempting to rebuild it, but I'm willing to do it if that's what it will take, I'm also willing to buy a new carb to avoid 12 hours of work trying to fix the existing one, but I'm afraid I'll have tuning issues beyond my capabilities even with a new carb. Also, the truck doesn't have a tach to assist in the tuning process.
I'd love to bolt something on and start driving, but I'm guessing it won't be that easy. Is it most likely a carb problem? Any recommendations on what I should do, considering my total lack of experience with carburetors?
I got a 1986 chevy g20 conversion van and I am having a problem with it once in a while it will stall out after putting it into gear it does not do this a lot but it does happen also smells like its running rich and until it warms up while the van is in park you can hear a intermittent click sound goes click click............................click...click no real rhythm just kinda does it then stops when in any gear besides park friend said it could be a small backfire. The engine is a 350 V8 4 barrel carbed.
View 1 RepliesI have a 5 speed 99 Jeep Wrangler and when the car is running, it's extremely hard to put the car into first gear from a standstill. However, once it's in gear, shifting is fairly normal but still offers a little resistance. I feel like I have to wiggle it into gear. When putting the car in reverse from a standstill, the gears grind terribly.
Once the car is off, shifting is still difficult until I put it in reverse. Somehow, this "fixes" the problem and everything shifts smooth as a dream until I start the engine and then it's a 50/50 shot until it eventually fails later on.