Was servicing my vehicle today and this tube snapped in half. Called ford, dont have it since its an 'obsolete' legacy part.
Tried 1aauto, rock auto, both dont have it.
Am I out of luck? is there an alternative? can I just use a rubber hose instead to connect the pcv valve to the other end part?
I just stepped into my1997 Escort Wagon and started it up. I reached over to turn on the air conditioning and the fan did not come on at all. I checked my fuses inside and outside(under the hood) and nothing seems blown.
View 3 RepliesHere is my car info:
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1994 Ford Escort LX (Wagon)
1.9L SEFI engine
Just installed a new timing belt, water pump, thermostat and serpentine belt (the car was running great)
Here is the exact sequence of events that caused the issue:
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I was working on the car
I backed up on to wheel ramps so that I could check the exhaust
I noticed that the car was idling high, so I removed and lubed the IAC with WD-40
I put the IAC back in place with grey RTV and tightened it down ( It's not leaking at all )
Here are the exact symptoms:
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I turn on the ignition switch
The fuel pump pumps and sounds normal
The Fuel gauge shows about 3/4 tank (which is accurate... I recently filled the tank)
The low fuel light comes on (which makes no sense to me)
When I turn the ignition to the start position, the car cranks and sounds normal, but it doesn't even attempt to run. When I crank the car the Low Fuel light goes off, but the Fuel Cutoff light comes on (only while cranking). I also notice a slight smell of gasoline, but I can't find any fuel leaking or dripping anywhere!
What I've tried:
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Looking for fuel leaks ( can't find any). Made sure the IAC is properly connected.
Verified and tested the Inertia switch in the right rear of the car ( it is working properly and has not been tripped). When I trip it, the fuel pump does not run. When I reset it the fuel pump works properly again.
Disconnected the + battery cable for 5 minutes or more in an attempt to reset the ECU. It didn't work. Symptoms remain the same.
This morning on my drive into work I discovered that when trying to accelerate while moving at ~60mph or more the car would shudder and experience a lack of any power at all. If I continued to press down on the accelerator the car would continue to shudder and it would get worse. It felt like an engine stall shudder but constant. If I was below 60mph are tried to accelerate I had no problem, I could continue to accelerate all the way to 70mph, then I would have to slow down for traffic. However after cruising above 60mph and then pressing down on the accelerator I would experience the shuddering. I experienced this issue suddenly with no gradually increasing issues at all.
Car Details:
1993 Ford Escort Wagon LX 1.9L SEF I64K miles
Recently replaced oil, about 2wks ago
Air Filter fine and unobstructed
Car has been getting about 36mpg
Exhaust was replaced about 1 month ago and is unobstructed.
I'm trying to figure out a small leak on my mothers' Santa Fe. Recently I smelled coolant after my mother had gone for a long drive. I checked the Radiator and overflow... need maybe 1 qt of coolant.
Now I'm trying to find the cause of the missing coolant ! While it's running, I see no leak. Shut it off and it starts to drip from a small plastic tube on the firewall inside the engine bay area (on the passenger side). It drips down onto a rubber boot covering some steering stuff. Is this from the heater core?
I have a 01 passat wagon here that wont crank. I would like to know where i can locate the neutral safety switch. Also the only light that works on the gauge cluster is the traction control light until you press the switch and then it will go off too. Would the cluster being broken cause the car to not crank????
View 4 RepliesMy wagon 2003 l-300 has flickering lights and when the radio is off you can hear the engine whine. Is this a grounding problem or is the alternating system going out? I have checked all the connections and do not see anything obvious. What to check.
View 9 Replies2005 Mazda 6 wagon (AT); 110K mi
Of late, I have noticed a hi-pitched squeal, but only on sharp right turns!
I only just noticed it recently, the one time I had the radio off and windows down. Normally, the sound is too faint to hear.I did a few turns, both left and right, and it definitely only occurs on right turns -- eg when turning the corner.Since I only just noticed it, I have not yet brought it to my mechanic.
Also, I would note that the sound does not occur if I turn the wheel when stopped (eg at a light). It's definitely a car-in-motion symptom. Any possible areas to check?
I inherited a Passat wagon abt a month ago and I just got an Oil Pressure Low warning.
Long story short, took it to the mechanic said it was a sludge issue in the oil pick up and that he'll have to drop the oil pan to fix it.
Don't have that to give at this point.
I'm confident I can tackle it myself but I need a DIY guide or the Haynes repair manual to guide me along the way.
Always used the button to close it, and nothing particularly different happened last time my wife shut it... now it just makes a groan for a second or two, the TOP of the hatch pops out about a quarter inch (bottom doesn't move at all), and nothing else happens.
View 11 RepliesI have a 1997 Volvo 960 station wagon. It has been sitting in the driveway for 5 months. I went to drive it and it wouldn't start. We jumped it and it ran but wouldn't hold a charge. The battery was about 7 years old so we went and bought a new battery. We took the old battery out and replaced it and now it does nothing. It won't start and there is no sign of power to the car at all.
View 5 RepliesWe bought my wife's wagon with about 24k miles on it. It runs like a champ still (3k later). She has a client who has the exact same car but with 60k miles and the engine needs to be replaced. Something about sludge in the engine.
View 24 RepliesI have about 80K on my Passat. This engine noise sounds like the rockers for the valves have to much play. I just hear it with low RPM. What can I do?
View 5 RepliesSuddenly, the horn on my '97 Volvo V90 (wagon - really a 960 wagon) stopped working. The mechanic checked out connections. The only thing he came up with was to get inside the column and see if a wire had come loose. Not only is that wildly expensive, but the air bag issue is a big deal. Finding a junk yard with a wheel, horn and column is impossible for this model. I have to pass inspection soon. Testing in and around the column? And, if after all testing is done, what are the options??
View 1 RepliesLast week, my Mazda 6 wagon would not start ... Jumped by auto club, and told the right battery cable was not tightly connected to battery. Car was ok for 2 days... Then same thing, it would not start, jumped again, battery was ok per auto club. Car ran for one day, then jumped again and brought to mechanic. Mechanic has had 24 hours, replaced new battery and cable connection... still not starting consistently with cold weather???
View 2 RepliesI've been looking at the wagon for about a month now, but I am not too sure it has enough space in the rear to accomodate 2 convertible kid seats and a baby seat in the middle.
The Phaeton probably has a ton more space in the rear for that setup, but haven't really test driven one yet, but I am sure its a dream. The good thing is that the Phaeton is certified too and about a couple grand cheaper, even though it is used.
There is a tube/hose going from the air intake duct to the rocker arm cover.
I need to replace it but don't know what it's called to look it up.
1991 Volvo 740 Turbo
200K miles
I was examining EGR valve and found a huge crack on a tube that stems out from the head of the EGR valve and goes into the EGR vacuum controller. I need to find out what this tube with steel core is called so that I could order new one at a dealer. Or can I get this from Autozone or Pepboys too?
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a co-worker brought over a 2000 chevy S-10 v6 automatic 4x4 with a leaking/broken dipstick tube. he bought the new tube/gasket & 6 quarts of auto fluid, and i told him to get a trans filter & gasket since I may need to remove the pan to get the old end of the dipstick tube out.
I was able to get it all out, and get the new tube in fishing it around the rear of the block for a few minutes. I got everything all seated up the tube had to be tapped in with a rubber mallet from the topside.
I checked the tube & seemed to have a nice seal. I replaced the mount bolt, put the filter & pan back on. filled it up & started up the truck.. rowed through the gears. seemed just fine until I looked under the truck. Almost all the ATF I had put in, on the floor.
I attempted to pull the tube & tried to put a little red RTV on the sealing grommet, on the outside & inside. I cleaned the tube & all other surfaces. same results...
how to adapt the tube to a compression fitting that bolts in to the trans .750 hole...
"I have a 2001 XC70 WAGON and is making big noise while moving, bigger the speed bigger the noise, engine in idle and in N (while in speed) the same. Could this be because of tires?
View 2 Replies1991 740 Wagon 2.3 I4 with turbocharger and an intercooler.
My rear taillamp brake lights do not come on.
Of the 4 red lights on both taillamp cluster, only bottom two red lights stay on when I turn on the head lights. When I step on brake pedal with both headlights on or off, all 4 read lights do not come on.
I only get the middle small red light on. (which probably means the brake light switch on the pedal is fine.) I do have the lamp malfunction warning on when I turn on the headlamp or signal lights on.
I changed the lamp malfunction relay (big red cylinder) but things are the same. Found the bottom right red light had one of its filament broken so replaced the bulb but things are still the same.