Escort :: Engine Starts To Lope And Often Die When Warmed Up
Dec 4, 2014
My 1999 escort 2.0L sohc is having idle issues. It idles perfectly after a cold start. When the engine warms up, the engine starts to lope, and often dies. I've searched for leaks and replaced parts that are the most obvious possible reasons. Also replaced some parts that were questionable. The head was cracked and the gasket blown. It was obviously like that for quite some time. There was only a leak between the coolant and cylinder.
So far I've replaced: fuel pump, fuel filter, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, water pump(trashed), thermostat, cts, radiator fan switch, head w/gasket, radiator cap, iac valve, ccrm, pcm/ecu, tps, cleaned maf sensor, cleaned intake, cleaned injectors, new injector o-rings, spark plugs, coil, checked and cleaned pcv valve. Knock sensor is ordered, and O2 sensor will be installed soon.
The loping goes away with the headlight and/or A/C on. The car previously would overheat without the cooling fan switching on, hence the cooling parts being replaced.
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My 2000 Toyota MR2 started to act up a bit lately.
I noticed that the car cranks fine, but turns over very weak. almost seems like it barely starts. This happens ONLY when the car is already warmed up. This does not happen when car is starting from cold start. Like, starting first time in the morning is fine, but after 10 minutes of driving, then turned off, the subsequent starts are weak as a fart from a butterfly. But it does start, and when it does... it seems to drive okay.
Now, I've been hearing it can be leaky fuel injectors, or... Mass Air Flow sensor, .. or .... bad fuel pressure..(which may be part of leaky injectors?)
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When engine is cold it starts fine, when hot from driving (e.g. the engine's temperature display's needle is in the middle) i cannot start it unless i try 3-4 LONG keys. What can it be? Where should i start?
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My wife's RX is really starting to give me a headache. The first problem I'm having with this car is detonation. The car starts pinging at part/ light throttle once the engine is fully warmed up. The is no CEL or codes pending. After scanning the car it seems that fueling is right where it should be and nothing else seems out of order. The pinging stops when you hit the gas harder. So far the only way to rid the car of this problem is to fill with 93 octane and that gets expensive with a daily driver. Shouldn't the knock sensors be handling this? Is there a way to test them?
The second problem I have is the heat won't turn off. Hot air always comes out at what seems to be low fan. I can move the area it comes from ( dash vent, floor etc) but I can't turn it off. With the fan set to off and no settings chosen I still get heat.
The car currently has 78k miles on it
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Here's what's done to the car so far:
Evoms CAI
Autotech HPFP Insert
UM Fully Loaded Stage 2
Magnaflow Catback
R8 Coilpacks
Now my problem lies in the fact that the car has an unusual "loping" idle once it's warmed up. I noticed it very slightly when I first installed the catback simply because that exhaust is louder than stock. Now with the tune it seems to be even more noticible and ocasionally the engine will stumble upon a warm startup. I've pulled up VCDS and looked at the timing measuring blocks during idle and it varies between 0 and 13.5 BTDC/ATDC, the lowest the revs go is about 700 and the the car idles most of the time at about 800. A few hundred miles ago there was a code for Fuel pressure too high (P0088) and an o2 sensor reading too rich (P2271), I saved said codes and cleared them and they have not returned.
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I drive a 2000 Ex V10. My truck has been having an issue at idle after it warms up, almost every time after it sits and cools down.
My problem is that once the truck warms up, it will drop down to 500 rpm's and will have a hesitation/miss/lope for about 20 seconds. When it does this I can hear the exhaust making a sputtering sound. On two occasions during windy rain it would hesitate while driving but then straighten up within a half mile or so and be fine. I have changed all the boots, cop's and plugs and don't think that is where my problem is.
What I can't figure is why it seems to hesitate/lope once it warms up! This problem not related to a failing boot, plug or cop?
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We have owned a 95 Camry V6 for 20 years and it has always been reliable. However, several days ago, the car started to have its first engine performance issue. When we start the engine cold, there was rough idle/engine lope. If it was warmed up for about 5-10 minutes, the car was fine for the entire day. but during this rough idle, the car jerked slightly as well if i press on the gas.
Since the symptom began, I took it to local shop A and they replaced all the spark plugs, pcv valve and air filter which did not solve the rough idle/looping problem. The rough idle continued, and few days later, I was unable to start the engine though it cranks. (at least that's what I think it does). Had it towed to shop B and they've replaced oil pump, which they thought to be the problem. I took it home, and the next morning I found myself unable to start the car.
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i have a 1991 ford escort pony i w driving it fine all day then all a sudden i stopped to get water the car died when it did i tried to restart it , it bogged out and didnt start i waited a hr it started idled for 20 mins reved it up everything seemed ok but then i went to actually drive it i got 1/3 of a mile if that and it died on the side of the road with my lil daughter in the car and 104 degrees outside. me and my father thought it was a furl filter or pump but in the primer valvei t has plenty of fuel and pressure. what it could be?
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Have a 93 Bronco, 5.0. replaced battery, IAV and had a complete tune-up. Now starts great, runs fine until it gets warm, than in about 5 - 10 minutes the idle starts to fluctuate. A little at first but eventually between 1000 to 300 rpm and will stall if you don't give it some gas. Turn it off, restart, starts fine and runs OK again for a while.
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Ignition coil replaced twice in 3 weeks, engine still cuts out randomly and "service engine soon" light flashes on.
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OK--2001.5 1.8t Tip, 85k, nothing but Mobil1 since day one religiously. At around 81k miles the t/belt tensioner seized & let the belt jump and bend a few valves. Had VW do the repair under the p.t. warranty. Engine now runs very well again except there is a knock noise that sounds an awful lot like a crank or rod bearing. The noise is worse with the engine fully warmed up and in drive or reverse. Took it back to VW, they said it's a bearing in the a/c compressor. Sounded like B.S. to me, since the noise is no different with or without the a/c on. I picked up the car & removed the a/c belt at home & found the noise was exactly the same. I've about had it with VW on this issue. Been back 3 times with the noise complaint, & the noise is getting worse!!
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I have a 93 escort with a 140,000 miles with the 1.9 and AT. Sometimes when I go to accelerate the fastest it will go is about 10mph no mater how far I have the gas pedal pushed, and the engine does not rev up at all. It just acts like I am coasting and not using the gas pedal. The car idles fine and will rev up and down when in park.
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I recently replaced a bad head gasket on this car. After putting the reworked head back on the engine and putting everything back together, I can't get fuel to the engine. I cheated and took the intake manifold out and bolted it to the head and then set it back in the car plugging my injectors back into the manifold once in there. I checked all my electrical connections and they are all good. I am not getting power to the fuel pump, which was replaced a year ago when I first started tinkering with fixing the car. I get power to and from the inertia/fuel cut-off switch, but it doesn't appear to get to the fuel pump. I checked all the injectors to make sure they were seated properly which they were and all the fuses both under the dash and hood that I know about and then some. When I pull the 30amp fuse under the hood, and replace it, I do hear a sound that sounds like something is pressurizing or pumping for a second or to, but the sound is from under the hood and not from the pump/gas tank area.
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2003 F250 crew cab 6.0 ... Where are the main problem areas on the ficm wiring harness truck will start and run great at times and at times it just start and misfire lope jump and buck it has to be a short I've changed the icp and crank / cam sensors some days it runs fine had issue with alternator replaced it.
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I bought a 1999 f350 v10 about a month ago took it on a 1200 mile trip from Arizona to Kansas. Truck ran great till I got Kansas. The truck started to lope after I got fuel at a fuel station. Did not get any check engine light on. I check for vacuum leaks did not find any. I change all the coil packs, spark plugs, IAC valve and fuel filter. Clean the intake and put sea foam in the fuel tank and the truck still idles rough. Change the egr vavle. Truck ran great till I got 10 miles down the road then the truck started to lope again. So I'm getting really frustrated over this truck.
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My 2002 Ford escort won't start when the engine is cold, and by cold I mean less than about 80 degrees F. I have to crank it multiple times to get it to start, and then it usually runs for a little while and dies. When I first start it, if I press the gas it dies immediately. Once the engine is warmed up, it runs perfectly and you would never know there is a problem. It also starts fine if the engine hasn't been off for very long, and is still warm. I have already replaced spark plugs, spark plug wires, battery, and fuel pump. I have also run fuel system cleaner through it, and changed the oil/filter.
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My radiator cooling fan is on all the time. This is a 93 escort wagon with the 1.9 L engine and A/C. Even when the engine is stone cold the radiator cooling fan is always on. I might note that the A/C switch is OFF and as you might guess, the A/C compressor is off as it should be. On most vehicles and I presume this escort is the same, when the A/C is activated the radiator cooling fan will be activated as well. Do you know of a few things I should check that would cause the radiator cooling fan to be activated as soon as I turn the key to start, then run, even though the engine is stone cold?
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I have a 1996 Ford Escort with ~128,500 miles on it.
When I start the engine (either cold or hot), occasionally the engine will sound like it is missing and, if I step on the accelerator to give it more gas, after ~10-15 seconds the engine runs fine and the problem disappears. The engines shuts off if I don't step on the accelerator.
This happens approximately 3-4 times per week and I drive the car every day. I never know when the problem will arise.
I took the car to a Ford dealer to have it looked at and the mechanic, without doing any testing, said that it was either a leaking head gasket or a cracked head. The mechanic later then ran some tests upon my request and confirmed that it was not a leaking head gasket or a cracked head. No further tests were performed at that time, so I still am left without any definitive answer as to what is causing the problem.
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1992 Escort GT 1.8 liter ... It's been a problem for a while, where I'll just be driving (or at a stoplight) and the engine dies. It doesn't sputter or give any signs (that I know of) before it goes. Usually if I let it sit for a while, generally under an hour, it'll start right up again and run for a few days and then happen again. The engine light will sometimes come on, but only after I get it started up again, and it never stays on for long. The other day, it died on my way to work and didn't start up again for a few days, but the engine light was on, and gave a code 23. I think this means I should get the throttle sensor fixed.
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My car, '99 ford escort,' engine light just came on when I started the car. I took it to autozone for one of those checks with the machine thingy. The code was PO171 bank 1 system 2 lead. The girl at autozone told me that I may need a oxygen sensor. What is a bank 1? What do I say when I go to the repair shop?
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I have a 99 ford escort with a 2.0 SOHC engine and for the last week or so it was making a tapping noise but it was intermittent. Today, I revved the motor up slightly and it started making this horrible clanking noise and then it stalled out. I tried starting it up and when it did start to run, it made the same clanking noise then it shut off. I tried to start it up and it wont even turn over. Its acting like it seized up but I am not sure if its in the top end or the bottom end. Now I know the CVH engines are notorious for dropping valve seats but I am not sure how to diagnose it if that is what happened.
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