Escort :: 95 - Starter Delay In Cold Weather / Dash Lights Dimmed
Nov 1, 2011
95 1.9L 5 speed. 142K Runs like a champ but over the last few colder mornings, low 40's high 30's, the starter is slow to get turning. This morning it was really slow, as I held the switch to the crank position for a good 10-15 seconds before it started. To the point that the dash lights dimmed, like a larger load was on the battery. Once it starts its fine. Later in the day it starts just like it should. Just wondering if I may have a starter about to go south on me.
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So this is weird. When it is cold outside it takes a few minutes before my stereo will work. It powers on and you get a quick blip of audio but then it takes a few minutes before it will work again. What is causing this issue?
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Truck is an extended cab, 8' box, 4x4
This truck has begun to not start in cold weather. No click of the solenoid, no starter movement. Dash lights all work, heater, wipers, etc. I put a space heater in the cab, on the drivers side floor board, warmed it up and then it would start.
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I have a 2004 Grand Am (6 cylinder 3.4L). There are 177K miles. Last week, after I started my car (with no problem), the radio and dash gauges took about 3-5 seconds before coming on. Hadn't happened again since then until yesterday.
First it took 3 seconds, the next time 5 and progressively longer. The last time I started my car it took about 20-30 seconds until everything came on. I was already driving at that point. Interestingly, if I put the key in the ignition and turn it half way - the radio and dash lights pop on right away with no delay (every time). It's just after I turn the car on that the delay happens.
I'm going to get my alternator and battery tested tomorrow at an Auto Parts store. I can't remember how old my battery is (I have it documented somewhere but haven't had the chance to investigate). The only interior electrical thing I can think of is my dome light doesn't turn on when the car doors open. I have gotten it to work occasionally by just jiggling the switch, but can't get it to come on automatically.
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2001 F250 SD 4x4,V10, auto, 156K miles
Truck was idling getting ready for work. Went into the Garage to grab my coat. on the way out heard a TERRIBLE noise, and the headlights dimmed down a bit.
I heard the noise a 2nd time, it was the starter trying to reengage! I promptly shut it off and waited a few minutes, but the same thing happened!
I pulled the control wire off of the solenoid, and (still running in Park) everything seemed "OK". To see if the solenoid was bad/stuck, or if there was still voltage on the control side, I touched the connection,and with the engine still running, the solenoid re engaged!
"Something" is telling the starter to 'start'! When I shut the thing down, and pull the key, it seems normal EXCEPT I can faintly see the Battery, and ABS lights illuminated in the dash cluster. I pulled the negative Battery cable off, and that is how it sits right now. Very strange to me. The truck ran great on a 5 hour trip just this past weekend.
Looking for a legit wiring Diagram for this year of truck?
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I drove my car downtown this morning. It was 7 degrees outside! - The windshield/dash rattle is no longer a rattle noise. It sounds like two Styrofoam boxes that are next to each other making a loud rubbing/creaking noise. I can hear it over the radio! I don't even have to go over a bump! Just turning in a curve in the road where the car leans slightly will produce this noise.
This problem is so un-Lexus like that I cannot believe it! - We are not talking new technology here folks! Cars have had Windshields and Dashes for over 80 years. Lexus had this problem solved when they released their first car! I have never owned a car that has done this. I am betting even a Yugo would not have this problem!
My car is going to the dealer on Monday to fix this problem. Luckily my dealer has said they have fixed this problem before and have never had it re-occur. We'll see about that! This is the only thing that is wrong with my GS350 in over a year of ownership. What I cannot believe is that Lexus knew about this problem in 2006 vehicles and it is still there in 2007! This is not rocket science! I will be very interested in hearing if this problem is truly corrected in the 2008 models!
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i have a 2002 camry le .. my door ajar dash light comes on when the car has been sitting for 2-3 plus hours in cold weather 30 degrees or below ... its draining my battery .. tried lubricating door latches on all 4 doors and has not worked, came back 3 hrs later and door warning light on dash came back on ..
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I purchased a 2013 RX450h in May. Now that it's getting cold I've noticed that when I start the car I get a moderately loud "whirring" sound from the dash for the first few minutes after I start the vehicle. It sounds similar to a cassette tape being rewound or something. It seems to originate from inside the dash, behind the CD player and other controls. This only happens when it's quite cold out (below freezing or thereabout).
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I drove to work yesterday, all was fine. Got in the car at lunch time and NO START!! No "parallel" start!!! the car "wakes up", the wheel and tranny unlock, all the dash lights activate but the starter will not crank!!. I did hear 4 or 5 clicks coming from under the car on the first attempt but none after, this morning I heard the same clicks in the first start attempt then nothing after. Here is a scan:
Code:
Thursday,10,July,2014,14:01:01:08208
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: 12.12.2.0
Data version: 20140212
[Code] .....
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Its not super cold but in Tampa ever since I installed my headers and its 60 or below i've gotten the VSC and ABS lights on in the dash after driving a little bit. Typically this is a cold morning type thing.
I reset the lights and it went away for a few days (it also got 30 degrees warmer) once it got down to 55 the lights came back on. Parked the car went in to work and when I drove home the lights were off (without re-setting the lights).
I know the codes can mean different things. The car is driving the same as always too- I have PPE headers, Ingen Intake, and a muffler delete.
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It has been cold recently (out of the past week, highs in 20's or lower). This hasn't been as much of an issue before, but in the past week I have had the red triangle of death, brake warning light, check engine light, and VSC light all come on at the same time, three separate times. Also, the display screen shows a red outline of a car with "!" through it. Each time this has happened, the lights didn't come on as soon as the car was "Ready" but only after the gas engine was running for a minute or two.
The first time the lights came on, I was driving back from class, but after I got back to my house I did some internet research and saw it may be a low oil indicator. Checked the oil, it was almost at the bottom mark on the dipstick, and it had been over 10,000 miles since the last one (oops! we don't normally do that). After reading some stories online, I took it in to get an oil change, and the lights went off for a couple days. Second time the lights came on, I checked the oil level, it was definitely over-filled, so I took it back to Walmart and had them redo the oil so that it was at the right level. I checked the oil level before leaving the parking lot that time and it was at the top mark on the dipstick. Again, all the lights were off for a couple days.
Today, I drove my car for about an hour in the morning (temperature was around upper teens, wind chill below 10) and had no problems. Then, this evening I turn the car on and start driving out of the parking lot when the car beeps at me and flashes all of the warning lights again. I drove back to my house and it is now sitting in the driveway. I am not planning on driving it until I can have a car mechanic friend take a look at it on Tuesday, but he doesn't know anything about the hybrid system/battery.
My wife and I have also noticed that since the weather has been colder, the hybrid battery (shown on the "Energy" screen when driving) seems to be charging and discharging much faster than normal. I haven't seen it at only 1 bar or full of green bars more than a couple times in the 2.5ish years we have owned the car, but in the past two weeks it has happened 5-10 times (estimated). I am not sure if this is due to the weather, or if it could indicate a problem with the (hybrid?) battery. For obvious reasons, this makes us nervous :/
As a side note, I changed the transmission fluid sometime in December, so I was wondering if possibly I didn't put enough fluid back in. I have checked the diagnostic screen and found some codes, but most of them seem to relate to the audio, which doesn't concern me as much as the code that seems to indicate the transmission, which is why I mention the change I did a while back. I just don't know why it wouldn't have shown up until now. I'll attach some pictures I took tonight of the codes and lights.
Also, the battery is a couple years old, but after sitting for a couple hours the battery was reading 12.1 V according to the diagnostic screen, so I don't think that is the issue. We haven't had any trouble getting the car to start, and once it is running it still seems to drive normally with the warning lights on. What these codes mean, and a possible cause for the warning lights?
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Problem started within the last 2 days. Get in the car, insert key, turn to start car but the starter doesn't crank. All dash lights are on and I hear a clik when I turn the ignition key. Try it a couple of times and it finally starts. Here are the things I've tested:
1. Battery voltage reads 12.86V. Terminals clean.
2. I disconnected the ignition lead on the starter and connected a voltmeter between the ignition terminal and ground. Turned the key a dozen times and every time it read 12.4V. I'm thinking it may be the starter.
3. Remover starter and took it to a local auto part shop for testing. They say it works fine.
Now I am kinda stuck. I don't think it is the neutral safety switch as I saw 12V each time I turned the ignition. Nothing is completely ruled out yet. I suppose it still could be the safety switch
So I bought a new starter but I'm hesitant to put it in as I'm not sure that is the problem and want to be able to return it if necessary.
Put the old starter back in as I don't completely trust the part store testing. After everything assembled, I turned the ignition and no joy. Tried it a couple of more times and it started.
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I have an 06 Dodge Durango. When the weather is cold, say 30 or below, and the engine is still cold, my lights, inside and out, will turn off and then back on quickly. Also, under the same circumstances, my windshield wipers will come on, back and forth 3 times. Never can tell when these things will happen exactly, just that it happens whe it is cold outside and the car is still cold. Took it to a garage, but they couldn't find a problem.
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My car not starting at times. the issue goes like this i'll start it up drive it to where i need to go park it do what i need to do come back out to the car and it wont start there;s no clicking from the starter or anything but all my dash lights and electronics work and after trying to start the car for about 15-20 min it'll start up no problem. i went and had the battery and starter tested and they said it was fine. all i can think of is that its the ignition switch but i don't wanna go out and spend close to 100 bucks to replace this if its not the problem.
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I had oem LED taillights installed to my car. Dealer coded the car to avoid error lights on dash. The problem is now the city lights under xenons look dimmed. Not as bright as before. I asked him why did it happen and he said that it's normal as it needs to balance the current flow to supply enough power to the LED taillights. I'm not satisfied with this answer though.
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This problem showed up this summer, different times under load: on hot days, going uphill, AC on. Also, always happens when the temp gauge is just above halfway. Even after a stall, I am able to limp home, and it improves the longer the car runs after the problem starts. First I replaced the fuel filter which was pretty dirty, the problem didn't improve, so had the shop run codes -- low ignition voltage. They replaced the coil, and that seemed to work for a while. Now, in109 degree heat, it's starting to hesitate again, but the engine light hasn't come on this time. I had to replace the radiator about 4 months back, when it was cooler, and don't know if it's somehow temp related. Also, haven't replaced the timing belt since I bought it with 90K (its has 119K now).
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2000 f150 4x4 5.4auto tranny.
When I turn the key, sometimes i have a time delay before the starter kicks in. I replaced the relay on the firewall and no change. A couple of days ago I started the truck but the starter did not turn off when the key was released. I had to turn the key to off then back to run to get the starter to stop. Now today, I nearly got stranded by it. It took several attempts to get the starter to kick in.
To me this seems like a relay sticking. What should I try next?
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Jumped small wire on starter straight to battery and started right up, the starter kept running until I pulled the jumper off. Starter relay? Ignition switch?
What ever it was it must have knocked it loose because I put the small wire back on the starter and it fired right up. Crazy thing.
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Have a 2005 Mercury Mariner Premier, 108k miles, 3.0L engine. Was driving last week and the ABS light came on. Then slowly the dashboard lights dimmed to black and lost electricity. All this within a couple miles of driving. Limped home and tested the battery - dead. Recharged and tested the next morning - still fully charged. Put another known good battery in and drove about an hour out and on the way home same thing happened.
I suspect the alternator, but on testing, the alternator is pushing 14.3 volts on a good battery. My fear now is the tear down necessary to change the alternator if it is not actually bad. Anything else I should look for / test before I start pulling the alternator out? Any other tests of the alternator that I can do while it's still installed?
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My 96 mercedes c280 will not start in the winter. I moved from florida to ohio and when it gets close to freezing or below my car will not start. The lights on rear view mirror (immobilizer lights) blink for 30 sec. I have to wait any where from 5-30 min. to start car depending on how cold it is, otherwise car runs great.
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Ok so first of all my car started perfect everyday but i live in Boca Raton FL so it is normally very hot but the past few days it has gotten rather cold for FL like 30ish...So my question is...is it possible that my starter endured such extreme different weather changes that it ruined it or could it be that it has been too cold for the starter to work two nights ago it didnt work and also this morning but it started warming up again and it took a while seconds but it started but very bad??? could it be it just has to warm up again and it will be fine? or do i need a new starter..
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