Escort :: 95 Manual Transmission / Clutch Never Slipped
Jan 8, 2013
95 Ford Escort 1.9L, 330,000 miles. Never changed the clutch and i bought it with 80k on it. With that said the clutch never slipped and a lot of this is highway mileage so i never saw a reason to change the clutch just because.
Last week i pulled into the driveway i depressed the clutch pedal as i normally do and as i slowed, the car bucked like it was still in gear and didn't recognize the clutch was depressed. When it started bucking i tried to pull the gear shifter to neutral but it wouldn't move, the car finally died in it's parking spot. I quickly popped the hood and had my son press the clutch in and out and all components seemed to be moving fine, i was mainly looking at the slave cylinder assuming since it's a hydraulic clutch if it was a hydraulic issue that wouldn't move if i didn't have hydraulic pressure.
No obvious leaks were noted, i looked at the master cylinder and it seemed a little low but not empty maybe just above min. I filled it to max and still no change. So i assumed it was the clutch finally disintegrated and locked up. Yesterday i got in the car to attempt to move it to the garage to work on it. It started up fine, shifted through all gears with no issue's, drove it around for about 15minutes shifting a lot and pressing the clutch randomly and it worked fine.
I brought it back home and tried to kill it a few more times before i got it to the garage, it finally locked again but it was in neutral and i couldn't get into any gear. Turned the car off and then restarted and it shifted into gear, i pulled it into the garage and stopped with no other issue's.
Checked closer for leaks, between master and slave and couldn't find any. Pulled speedo cable and checked trans fluid, its brownish red (more brownish) and thin but didn't really smell burnt and it is at the correct level. Linkage has some slop in it but i don't see it binding anywhere, i layed under the car and was able to move linkage in/out of gear with my hand. It's easy enough to say the clutch is well over due for changing but since there were no signs of a failing clutch when i drove it i think i need to look elsewhere.
Could it be worn fluid? Could it be debris in the line? Or could it be that the fork just isn't engaging or disengaging properly due to wear?
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I have 2013 Honda Accord 6 sp manual with 25k miles on, its clutch was completed gone last week, got new replacement, local Honda customer rep. told me I should watch my driving pattern, should using more break, instead transmission slow down, particular from high speed/high gears. I told them, we have 2008 Civic 5 speed Manual, I taught my two daughters how to drive it, and the car is still running without any problem… And, this is manual transmission car, tell a driver can not using/changing gears slowing down car is a joke… but maybe I am wrong...
Is there a possibility Accord has design problem with inferior clutch materials used on their new 6 speeds manual Accord? Since car has new clutch, should I keep it for a while? Or, sale it immediately? I just can’t not see I am going to come up another 3rd replacement on clutch before the car get into 60K miles.
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I currently own an mk6 gti with a manual trans... as of late I've been noticing a rattling noise when the clutch pedal is not engaged.. once engaged the rattling stops completely .. it seems to be getting louder and louder .. I am worried this could eventually turn into something worse than just a rattling noise .. i had a friend mention it could be the "throwout bearing" ..
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First of all this is also my first camry and I noticed that there is only 1 reservoir for the slave and the brakes - which is unique to cars Ive owned in the past. My question is when I remove my slave cylinder from the trans and unhook the hard lines from it would this introduce air into the brake lines since they share the same reservoir? Should I remove the brake fluid from the reservoir before I disconnect the slave? I am wondering because If i just disconnect the lines brake fluid will leak from them between the time I disconnect the old slavecyl and hook the new one up.
Also regarding the trans fluid. my le has 80,000 miles on it and I am not sure whether or not the previous owner ever changed it before. I am having a hard time finding information about how much fluid and exactly which fluid to use. All I know is that gl-4 is the safest choice, butis it ok to use red line mt-90 or amsoil MTF? I dont want to ruin the trans by putting in the wrong fluid and/or wrong quantity.
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My cluch is almost 2 years old and gets treated with kid gloves , I shift low in the RPM's And accelerate slow for smooth shifting and fuel savings (17mpg avg.). But as of yesterday I can here the gears wind up after I push the clutch in. No problems with power or gear handling , Just the sound of the gear(s) (low dry rev/wind sound) No visible leaks , Clutch has oil at the step mark. Also - I can Make The Trans create the same sound if I keep the clutch petal in and rev the engine.
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I have a 2010 GTI and I got the APR 93 octane chip about 6000 miles ago. The other day I pushed the gas to pass a car on the highway in 6th gear and it sounded like my clutch slipped a bit. It made me quite nervous as the car only has 10,000 miles on it. I'm hoping maybe it just got glazed over a bit.
All of my other cars had manual transmission so it's not my driving skills and I don't beat on my car either. My last 2002 GTI had 150,000 miles on it when I sold it and 140,000 of those were chipped. Never once did that clutch slip.
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My clutch peddle made a slight "snap" sound last night and now it is very difficult to get the car to engage in a gear while sitting still, while moving it does ok, but not nearly as smooth as it should be. The other odd occurrence is that while the motor is running and the car is not moving, you can't shift any gears at all, but as soon as you cut the motor, all 5 gears and reverse are easily accessible. Why the sound at the peddle and the trouble in the gear shift mechanism? I am only an advanced beginner with car repair, but I think think this is really bad...
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So about 200 miles into brake in and I backed up my steep driveway, a feat previously easy with the stock clutch. Backed up with my new setup (SB OFE disc) and all I could smell was burning clutch. Aside from this I have been strictly adhering to clutch break in best practices. The clutch will be ok still in the long run, or did I potentially cause permanent damage?
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Wondering if this would cause any wear to the clutch or anything but was in gear 3 about to upshift but my foot slipped off the clutch and the car didnt jerk the rpms just went back to where they were. Curious if that would do anything
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As the title says.... it slipped on a first gear pull and then another time on the highway on the on ramp in high RPM in second....
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I'm not sure if it's a missing bolt or another issue, but my shifter just started becoming "sticky" while in neutral. Sticky meaning when I go to slide it side to side while in neutral it's slow, and it's slow to return to the middle when I release it on the left just under 1st (while in neutral). I noticed that I can pull up on the shifter and it actually lifts and glides easily then, but add I shift over the day it pushes back down and repeats. Goes into and out of gear ok, I hear some grinding nose even in neutral unless I lift up on the shifter.
Side note that may be unrelated, my hand break stopped laying flat when disengaged. I it pops up slightly causing the break light to come on. Both began about the same time.
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While driving the other day the automatic transmission in my 2003 Santa Fe slipped into neutral. I pushed the car home wherre it currently sits. I checked for error codes and found none. There is a grinding noise when I shift from any gear into park.
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My automatic transmission slipped today. Really worried now. 2011 elantra with 36k on it. It was raining and I was turning right out of a shopping center. I floored it to beat the incoming traffic and the tranny slipped. It hasn't slipped since then and has been perfect so I know the dealer will say they can't replicate the problem. Should I be worried about this?
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Quick question. I have a 1992 Ford E-350 Box Truck and during a recent highway trip the transmission slipped and I lost Drive (3rd). The van drives fine in 1st, 2nd, reverse, and overdrive. When it's in D, it wont move at all from a stop. I'm able to get it in to overdrive by starting in 2nd, accelerating to about 35mph, then shifting it in to D. If I accelerate enough after shifting to D, I can usually get it to shift in to OD. The fluid is full and clean.
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The other day I noticed the car slipped into reverse fairly hard, then when I placed it into drive it also slipped in fairly hard. Once I was out on the road it hesitated and then slipped into gear 3rd then 4th, and when I slowed down it seem to hesitate when gearing down. Two days passed and no problems, then today started up again, and now the "check engine" light came on...! Shifted ok on the way home this evening but check engine light still on. Only 34K, 2012 bought in June 2011. Has been an absolutely brilliant ride up until this week. I understand the tranny is sealed ? Any tips besides taking it to a dealer ? Problem is I live quite a ways from one, and finding the time.
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I was out driving in my 2003 F150. The transmission Slipped on a shift. I noticed the OD light is blinking. Transmission went into OD and drove fine. Pulled codes P0713 and P0712 transmission fluid temperature sensor. Made it home. An hour later tried to back out and now sounds like a grinding or rubbing sound. But it sounds like the sound is coming from the rear end. I am lost.
2003 F150 4.6L SuperCab....
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Yesterday my transmission slipped as I accelerated from a stop off the highway exit ramp. It grabbed almost immediately and no problems till I got to my destination about 2 miles down the road.......fluid was dripping from the underneath the engine......reddish/pink fluid. Engine was not over heated (according to the gauge). Pulled car off driveway and down the road a bit and transmission was really slipping when trying to accelerate quickly (no issue with slow acceleration). Checked transmission fluid and it was not covering the stick. I thought maybe I burst a transmission coolant line but upon inspection no fluid on that.
So I added 1 quart of transmission fluid this morning and started the car to hope to find the leak. No immediate leaking the transmission case, seals or lines. But I did notice that when I started the car the coolant reservoir was "bubbling". After about 5 minutes to allow the engine to warm and the coolant gauge to come to normal operating range I noticed coolant reservoir/overfill spewing out a pinkish foamy fluid and then checking the transmission fluid level it was drained again (no fluid on stick when running). One last fact....the fluid temp coming from the overflow was cold, so was the radiator fluid after I popped off the radiator cap.....but the dashboard temperature coolant gauge was at the mid point/normal operating temperature of the scale.
So my question is......where do I take the car to have it looked at......a transmission shop, or a typical full service mechanic? Is the transmission fluid co-mingling with the coolant fluid and if so how does that happen?
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I have a 2001 Ford ZX2 with 170,000 miles on it. The clutch pedal doesn't engage the clutch until it is almost touching the floorboard. I thought it had a hydraulic clutch being a 2001 but I can't find a reservoir for the fluid so now I must assume now that it is a mechanical clutch.
1. Does they hide the reservoir on these ZX2's?
2. What could cause the clutch issue?
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I drive a 1995 Ford Escort (don't laugh, even though it has 328,000 miles on it). The car is generally very reliable, despite its age. The one thing that repeatedly fails, however, is its clutch cylinders. The factory cylinders lasted about 150,000 miles. The after-market models, ever since, have failed almost like clockwork every 18,000 to 20,000 miles. Either the master or slave has had to be replaced.
The longest they've gone is about 29,000 miles, but then both had to be replaced. No mechanic who has seen this car can explain why it would eat clutch cylinders so regularly. The only clue I have is their proximity to the firewall, and this model Escort was recalled for firewall problems early in its life. Why clutch cylinders would fail so regularly, and what I might be able to do to prevent it?
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I have a 92' Escort GT and the clutch started to act up, it's not burnt cause it is fairly new. The clutch pedal feels slightly looser when pushing it to the floor, the feeling like a cable snapped or something?
I'm pretty sure the clutch is a hydraulic one, not 100% .. Is there a hydraulic reservoir that somewhere that might be low?
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I have my suspicion about what is the culprit, and well, the likelihood of it contuing to work.
Occasionally when I am at a stop and try to shift into gear with the clutch depressed to the floor, it does not want to go into gear. So far, I have been able to wiggle the shifter around, try a few different gears then go back to first and it works. Also at a stoplight today, with the clutch depressed to the floor for a few minutes with the car in 1st, after about 3-5 minutes the car started to slowly creep forward.
What are your suspects on this one?
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