Escort :: 1997 Ford Started To Loose Power On Freeway
May 20, 2012
I have a 97 escort that was running great after a lot of maintenance work and then on the freeway it started to loose power. I pulled it over and it died. It would not restart for about 15 mins then it did. Ran really rough, mad some noises, I got it home and now it won't restart at all. It is not the battery or starter. Is it possible a bad EGR valve could cause it to do this? About a month before this happened I replaced all plugs and wires, coil, fuel filter, battery, oil change and O2 sensor.
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2000 Ford Excursion, 7.3 PS with 210,000 miles. I am on I40 at a truckstop. I was rolling down the freeway last night when the truck started bucking. I pulled of the freeway and here came a thunderstorm. I waited til this morning to check for codes cheap scanner. I pulled a code P1211. I waited for NAPA to open so I could take it in the shorts. I bought a fuel filter and an ICP sensor. After changing them out, the truck runs then starts missing. My battery is about to die so I will finish post shortly.
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While headed back to town my 2000 f350 7.3 with 444,650 miles (I'm original owner) and have performed maintenance and repairs since mile 3. Truck started to loose power and eventually stalled, was able to restart several times to limp home 7 miles in one hell of a snow storm. Very confused, replaced cam position sensor ( keep one in jockey box ) replaced fuel filter truck starts then stalls out. Don't know if a bad HPOP would allow start up at all. Fuel pump???
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I was driving up a hill an it started to loose power. i got up to the top of the highway an stopped an it just shut down. got towed home i thought it could of been the alternator but dose not seem to be. took the belt off to spin the motor an its not spinning. drained the oil an there is no metal in it to see if the motor was done. i try to start it an it just dose a click click an that's it. Is the motor done or is it a transmission problem?
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Sometimes when I try to start it it clicks and I loose all power , but when quick tern key 2,3,4 times it will start but then I need to feather gas till I can get it to idle. This happens first start of the day or cold. I put a new starter in, alternated is two years old .
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I have a 92' Escort GT and the clutch started to act up, it's not burnt cause it is fairly new. The clutch pedal feels slightly looser when pushing it to the floor, the feeling like a cable snapped or something?
I'm pretty sure the clutch is a hydraulic one, not 100% .. Is there a hydraulic reservoir that somewhere that might be low?
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I have a 1985 Ford Escort which I have to keep parked outdoors at the bottom of a very steep mile and a half long hill. It's right next to a river and very damp and cold and I only use the car once a week, very early on a Saturday morning. It takes at least five minutes of cranking to get it started with full choke. I then have to pull away up this 1 in 4 gradient hill with four of us in the car. About half a mile up the hill there's a junction and if I have to stop at this the car will often stall and be very difficult to restart. If I keep the choke out it will crank and crank and crank. If I push it in it will fire after a few tries but won't stay running. Having problems on really steep hills with cold engines and a manual choke?
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I have a '98 ZX2. Recently, my car started misfiring. I'm not sure of the cylinder number, but it's the one closest to the driver's side. Long story short, I found that the fuel injector is not firing, if that is the correct term. I used some trick I learned on youtube which involves using a screwdriver to listen for the fuel injector clicking. Anyway, I made a noid light out of an LED and a couple of resistors and found out that there is no injector pulse. I know the noid light works because I tested it on the other cylinders and it flashes. Anyway, I'm not sure where to go from here. I've read elsewhere it could be the PCM but if that were the case it would probably affect every cylinder and if it was a crankshaft position sensor the car wouldn't start.
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I just stepped into my1997 Escort Wagon and started it up. I reached over to turn on the air conditioning and the fan did not come on at all. I checked my fuses inside and outside(under the hood) and nothing seems blown.
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On my way to work this morning I was accelerating onto the freeway when my CEL started flashing then eventually went off, and my EPC light was left on. Definitely idling rough, feels like a misfire. When I got to work turned the car off and back on, still rough and the cell flashed again then stayed solid, EPC light also on.
Based on what little research I've done so far it looks and sounds like a misfire. I have my scanner to double check, but it is at home. Can I baby it home 10-15 miles on the freeway? It seems to drive "ok" above about 2.5k, rougher below that. 2012 GTI APR stage 1 about 43k on the clock.
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Car started throwing PO304 and checked coil, plugs, wires and injectors before finally checking compression. Checked #4 and it was 70. Checked #3 and it was 150 something. Got mad and quit
3 weeks ago the CEL started coming on only when i was low in a gear. Like rolling to a stop sign and taking off in 2nd instead of 1st. Dogging the car to avoid downshifting i guess i would say. Car would jerk like crazy and throw a code but would drive out of the jerking and run fine.
There are no loud noises coming from the valves. Engine runs a lil rough at idle but you would not notice it after you get going. Spark plug #4 had some oil on the threads, others did not. No antifreeze in oil, looks good. Throws PO304 constantly now..
Buddy came over and said he would first check the timing belt to see if it had slipped before digging into the head. To tell the truth, i probably will not be digging into the head anyway's. I probably could not find the problem anyways.
Just wondering what could be some realistic explanations for losing most compression on one cylinder. Could the valve seat be getting ready to go or is that a all or none type of deal?
This is a 97 wagon with 314,000 miles. I am getting 37 MPG and it drives straight as an arrow. Just replaced all tie rods and brakes and had her front end aligned and this is how she treats me. Would like to save this car as i really like it for my 700 miles a week commute to work. Judging the price of used cars nowdays, i have thought about replacing the engine with a used one if it comes to that but we will have to see.
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I have a '97 Ford Escort. I drive over an enormous pothole. Immediately, I heard a dragging noise on the left side of my car. The noise only occurred if I went over terrain that caused the car to somewhat bounce up and down. I got out of the car. I discovered a metal bar hanging down near the left wheel. I then noticed another one hanging down near the right. The bars appear to be either ends of a long rod. These bars curve down away from that rod. One has a hole through the end. One has something like a nut or bolt on the end.
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1997 escort lx wagon, manual, 173,000 miles... When I stop at a red light or stop sign, it takes 10-15 seconds for the idle to drop down to where it should be, and when I push clutch in to shift gears it doesn't drop down, it stays where it is. No codes are coming up. I'm thinking IAC....
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I have an 01 f150 4.6 4x4 automatic with 90,000 miles. I have an erratic idle but it only happens when I am on the freeway well actually when I get off the freeway and stop. the idle will fluctuate between 750and then drop to 400 then back and forth til I get moving again. I replaced the IACV because it was doing the weird humming and vibrating the intake tube. The humming is gone but still idles funny as stated above.
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I have a F150 2001 6cyl. Other day was doing 75 on freeway and lost all power. I replaced fuel filter, and pump is humming good (was replaced 4 years ago) checked the Inertia Switch and checked all relays, but truck still wont fire. I checked spark first and that's good.
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I have an 01 SuperCrew with the 4.6L and it's idling really rough. Last summer, the idle started to flux pretty bad with the a/c on and eventually, it started to spray coolant mix through the vents and I lost heating about the same time. So, local dealership changed out the heater core and that is working again.
Well...I still have the idle flux, it fluxes from between 400-1000rpm at idle with the a/c on, it's a constant flux....up/down/up/down/up/down. A/C off and the idle is rock-solid steady. Dealership has changed 4 ignition coils over the last couple of years along with an EGR or PCV (whatever it's called) valve as well, none of which was for the idle problem, but somewhat associated. Where I should be looking?
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For some stupid reason, my truck decided to lose power today when exiting the freeway. D/s egt gauge verified it with no increase in temp when stepping on go pedal. After about a minute, I could feel it gain power. So, rolled into fuel station, and topped off tank. While filling, I popped the hood and started messing with the uvch and looking around. It was then I noticed that darn hose riding on top of a ton of wires. Pulled said hose up and sure enough, a wire is shafed clean off of insulation. Anyway, something to check while looking around under there....
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My car has lost power. The engine seems bogged down and it has a significant sputter when accelerating and acts like it wants to die when idle. I am getting error code P1131. AutoZone did not give me any info on the code. I have changed the plugs and wires. I have been told this might be o2 sensors but after reading other stuff here, it looks like maybe a vacuum leak? I am not sure where to start at diagnosing this issue.
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I have a 2001 F150 4x4 supercrew XLT 4.6 with 150,000 miles. I have a few things happening in the truck, and although it is still running for now, I would like to get ahead of this before something catastrophic happens, and I don't know if everything is related, or everything is falling apart separately.
1. I have been noticing a burning smell coming from under the hood after driving, every time I drive, but no noticeable leaks, and oil level is fine. I have seen light smoke coming from the exhaust but inconsistently. A mechanic said it was probably the valve cover seals leaking to the manifold, but I would think there would eventually be less oil on the dipstick?
2. When on the gas, over 2200 RPMish, the air and AC switches to defrost. It seems like a vacuum line leak somewhere, but can't find it.
3. Generally, the truck seems sluggish, sometimes unwilling to shift gears or accelerate at freeway speeds. Not sure if its the transmission going out again (had it replaced at 125000), or spark plugs?
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Recently the timing belt went on my '97 Escort. It had been dripping coolant from somewhere under the timing cover so I bought the timing belt/water pump kit thinking that this would solve the two problems. It only solved one. I'm still dripping coolant from somewhere under the timing cover.
Are there any freeze plugs or things that would leak under the cover? When I had it all apart, there were no visible leaks at least on the upper end that I could see easily.
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Got a 97 Sedan with 207k+ on it. Just did all struts (monroe quick-strut), brake pads, shoes, drums, rotors, calipers, rear and front sway bar endlinks, and lower ball joints. All hardware is tight and secured.
I am getting a clunk when I go over some bumps, but not all of them. I also find that it will clunk when I try to accelerate while turning out onto, say, a main road or something where I need to pick up speed. At times it sounds like it's coming from the passenger and others it sound like the middle or driver side.
Control arm bushings don't look too bad and would probably cause more noise when accelerating and braking. Both wheels are snug and don't move when tugging on them in the air. There is no play in the steering as well.
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