I have a 96 ford escort, 1.9. Recently I've noticed I get a pretty good vibration coming from the front end.
The vibration only occurs when I'm accelerating over 50. When I decelerate over 50 the vibration goes away.
What could be causing this?
The shop replacing my front tires advised me to replace my front brakes and rotors soon. I'm not a huge car repair person, but I remembered my father-in-law saying brakes aren't that bad to work with. The car is the "college beater" I bought ten years ago and I'm trying to keep investments in it minimal. I told the shop I would do the brakes myself. So I spent the weekend with the Haynes manual fussing with overtorqued lug nuts, rusted on rotors, tightly wedged guide pins, and outer pads that didn't seem to have room (not the piston side). Got everything assembled, bled the caliper that was disconnected, and took it for a test drive.
I got about 30 feet from the driveway before pulling back in. The front of the car was making an grumble sound and had an odd vibration like a flat tire. This was with brakes engaged and not engaged. The car stopped fine, but I probably didn't get above 10 mph. Is this part of the "bedding/seating" process? I put in new (cheap) rotors and pads. This afternoon I'll check to ensure the pads are in properly and aren't dragging on the rotor and that I have the wheels properly centered. Car is a 96 Ford Escort 2 door hatchback.
A clunk sound coming from the front end. Drivers side and Passenger side. Not really a metal on metal sound. The problem started after coilover install. The sound occurs while braking and accelerating over bumps. So what I've replaced:
-Strut Mounts and Bearings
-Lower control arm bushings (R32 bushings)
-Drivers Side CV axle
What I've checked:
-Tie rod ends have no play
-Ball joints have no play.
-I have no sway bar, so not the sway bar bushings.
-Its not the axle hitting the frame.
Could possibly be the dog bone mount but when I installed the 1' motor mounts I saw no issue but could possibly be the bushing. feel the clunk in my foot as well.
MK4 2000 Jetta 2.0 5speed With Raceland Ultimo Coilovers (Junk)
I have been chasing a vibration that occurs around 60-70 MPH. Had all the tires re-balanced and checked the rest of the suspension and narrowed it down to the rear driveshaft.
Took the X to the driveshaft shop and he checked all the joints and suggested that I grease the slip joint as it still was original as delivered. Here's what I did.
Removed the rear bolts and dropped the rear of the shaft. Cut off the factory boot clamps. Marked the shaft so it could go back in the EXACT way it came out and removed the rear of the shaft with the boot intact. While the rear of the shaft was out I checked the joints and found them to be perfect.
There was no real grease to speak of left, just the factory ford blue. Filled it and the splines with moly grease and re-installed the shaft and boot. Clamped the boot with nylon ties (per his suggestion). No vibration any longer. Thought I would post this up as a quick tip.
I want to remove the spark plugs but unable to loosen them. How I can easily loosen them up without breaking them?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1996 Ford Escort that was giving me problems resulting in a new fuel pump and fuel filter, that was improperly installed and got that fixed. It has continued with the problems and they are getting worse. I had the fuel pressure checked, came out fine, then had a full engine diagnostic test, all testing fine. The mechanic suspects a sensor. The car acts like it is going to stall, then just when I think it is going to quit, it kicks in and runs great.
I got bad fuel a while back and it is doing the same behavior except does not quit. It happens very intermittently, now in every driving situation, except since I brought it in. The mechanic said if he checks the sensor when it's not happening, it would be a waste of time and money. Is this true? A faulty sensor will not read as faulty? This town is full of bridges, and the highway has long stretches of nothing and a mountain pass. He is suggesting I drive it until it happens again, then take it in, but that's what I did the first time. Do I really have to wait till it quits in one of these driving scenarios?
I want to change the spark plugs and wires in my 1996 Ford Escort (1.9 Engine).
The problem is trying to remove the No. 1 spark plug boot and spark plug. Both are located behind the alternator and are difficult to get to. I tried a boot puller but could not get easy access to the boot to pull it off the spark plug. The other three boots and spark plugs are readily accessible.
Is it sufficient to place the dielectric compound just inside the opening of the boot before placing it back on the spark plug, or should it be placed on the metal clip that is ~2-3 inches down inside the boot?
I have a 1996 Ford Escort with ~128,500 miles on it.
When I start the engine (either cold or hot), occasionally the engine will sound like it is missing and, if I step on the accelerator to give it more gas, after ~10-15 seconds the engine runs fine and the problem disappears. The engines shuts off if I don't step on the accelerator.
This happens approximately 3-4 times per week and I drive the car every day. I never know when the problem will arise.
I took the car to a Ford dealer to have it looked at and the mechanic, without doing any testing, said that it was either a leaking head gasket or a cracked head. The mechanic later then ran some tests upon my request and confirmed that it was not a leaking head gasket or a cracked head. No further tests were performed at that time, so I still am left without any definitive answer as to what is causing the problem.
I have a 2002 Camry with a 2003 engine in it. Recently, I have been noticing a vibration that seems to be in the front end, and can be felt on the steering wheel as well. It only happens at around 45 MPH and up. It has been a while since I have been on the interstate so I am not sure if it smoothes out at 70 or not.
The vibration is only when accelerating, it stops if you let off the gas. Going down a hill it stops, but going up a hill it vibrates.
I just purchased a 93 escort sedan 1.9 ltr engine. Car runs great when idling but bogs down when accelerating to the point it almost stalls out but doesn't stall. the car sat for a while 6 + months. We thought the gas might be bad so we drained the tank filed it with premium to run thru the line but that didn't work. thought maybe o2 sensor, changed that but didn't work. getting error codes 412 and 538 but can't find any info on these codes.
View 7 RepliesI have a 1996 escort wagon with strange auto transmission behavior. Sometimes during the summer months but mostly during the winter; the transmission will start off in 3rd gear from a stop and won't go any higher or lower. If I drive it around for a while, it will suddenly shift into 4th then the transmission will act normally for a while then for no reason will just suddenly start off in 3rd gear from a dead stop. It has been doing this for about 8 months now. 146k miles. I have tried shifting through all the gears manually. It will drop down into first when I put the lever there, but when I move the lever back up into drive, it goes right back into 3rd.
View 1 RepliesI have a 99 escort zx2 with an A/T. I just recently redid the whole front end. Installed new struts, springs, mounts, ball joints, tie rod ends (inner and outer) wheel bearings and CV shafts. Got it aligned after all that work and now I have a vibration whenever I apply power, whether its upon acceleration or when I'm going up a hill. The vibration frequency increases with speed and feels more like a frame vibration than a steering vibration. Does not make any difference on turning or not. After I noticed the vibration I put my winter wheels on thinking maybe it was a misbalanced wheel but no change. And here is the kicker, if I jack the car up the vibration will go away for about 45 mins of driving time before it starts to fade back in. Checked all of my bolts for tightness and changed the CV shafts again. brought it to another shop who could not find the source. They double checked the alignment and its straight as can be. Could it possibly be a bad strut? I installed Monroe sensa-trac with all Monroe associated mounts and hardware.
View 1 RepliesMy F-150 has developed a rattle and vibration at idle that only occurs with the truck in gear and stopped (with the brake depressed.) The noise appears to be coming from the front of the truck, perhaps from the driver's side (though it's difficult to tell while sitting in the cab).
Before I go crawling around underneath with my son holding the brake while the truck is in drive--I would sure like to know where it might be best to point the flashlight.
I have a 2010 Subaru Outback that is making a sound that sounds like glass bottles clinking. It occurs when accelerating around 20mph and/or around 40 mph. Can really hear it when there is a load like going up a hill at these slow spends. Dealership did a lot of flushing and lubricating and new filters etc, but that wasn't it. Also replaced my heat shield (yikes$) but that wasn't it. Then they had me run a tank of 93 octane and they didn't fix, so put in a bottle of engine cleaner and it didn't work either.
View 7 RepliesI have recently found what sounds like a grinding/vibration issue that occurs between ~2100-~2300 RPM's in my truck. After some googling, I thought it may be the inspection plate being a bit bent/loose. I took the cover off and drove around and the noise still occurred.
Things I have noticed:
-Occurs between 1-2 and 2-3 (had trouble with the other gear changeovers as I just have slow backroads around me to test over my lunch break- can test further in the future)
-Occurs during acceleration and deceleration
-Starts at ~2100 and ends ~2300 RPM
Any thoughts for next steps to diagnose? Truck has ~160k on it and I don't really have many service records (purchased within the past 3k miles and problem just started occurring after this past weekend). Transmission fluid seems to be in decent condition.
Not sure if it would affect anything, but I just got back from my first trip with the Excursion where I actually needed to utilize the 4WD. There was much more aggressive terrain than what it is used to seeing on the pavement. Thought I should mention that as well.
V10, if that matters (I recall reading somewhere that '99 7.3s with the auto had documented torque converter issues that warranted a TSB)....
My dad gave me this car a year ago. In great shape however, we've had some issues with extreme vibrating. Motor mounts have been replaced, brakes and rotors are new, ball joints new, and tires still have good tread left. Vibration is so bad that the steering wheel shakes and so do the seats. It happens it park, neutral, and at stops. Its loud and very embarrassing.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1996 Ford Escort with a 1.9 liter engine. I was checking my automatic transmission fluid and the dip stick shows 20 C and 65 C on the dipstick. How do I know if my fluid level is correct? Where should the mark be on level surface, in park with engine running.
View 6 RepliesSo, for some reason my 2004 has had a vibration ever since I bought it. This vibration occurs when in R or D when the car is not moving (stop light, parking e.g.). As soon as I accelerate the vibration goes away. After I bought the car I took it to the dealer to have them fix it and they replaced the engine mounts which made it a little better but not much. Recently the vibration has gotten significantly worse and I'm not sure why. I had the car into the dealer about a month ago to replace an A/C solenoid. Also, Tucson was hit by some torrential rain and I got caught driving through some water deep enough to nearly stall the engine out.
View 2 RepliesPicked up a used 10 prius iv with 31k and have put 1200 miles so far. One troubling thing I have noticed is this weird shudder/vibration that occurs between 30-40mph when the throttle is at the half way point (area between the light green and dark green bar) Vibration similar to that of driving over the rumble strip on the highway but not nearly as harsh and the noise would be similar to when you have one rear window open in the car and it creates the pulsating wind noise.
It doesn't do it all the time and mashing the throttle seems to alleviate the problem. It doesn't happen so much when cruising around town but it happens every time I get near the top of the incline in our office park and the car continues to lose speed until such time as I get back on the gas but it continues to do it until I turn into the parking lot. Occasionally it does it when coasting down a hill with the throttle right near the point of crossing from light green to dark green on the screen.
I have developed a noise in my front end. Sounds like someone shaking a handful of loose change or like bearings without lube. Occurs only while under load. As soon as I roll into or out of the throttle the noise comes or goes. Revving the engine in park or powerbraking does not reproduce the noise. Also I put the truck in 4x4 and the scratching noise goes away but I get a big shake and a clunk every so often especially under throttle. I'm thinking CV joints but that doesn't quite make sense. I've got 57k miles on it now with about 54k on a 2.5" level and 35" toyos. Not sure if this would normally be covered under the powertrain warranty, but with the lift and tires I doubt it so it looks like I'll be tackling this one on my own, hence the post. Any tips on Where to start on a 04-08?
View 8 Replies2012 Camry SE 4 cyl, 56K miles ... Happens in all gears, in normal and sport mode “under light acceleration” at 1600-2000 rpm.
Sitting in driver’s seat I hear a drone which sounds similar to the engine lugging we hear briefly at around 1000 RPM. In the 1600-2000 RPM range it is very annoying because this is the cruising range on highways. Sometime when going up a slight incline it can be felt through the accelerator.
When seating in back seat on passenger’s side, it sounds similar to a bad muffler/resonator and is very audible. Spring loaded exhaust couplings in front of muffler and between front pipe and converter are not seized. All rubber hangers are there. Installed “B-quiet” sound absorber in trunk going from spare tire well over top of muffler and up rear quarter panel which did not work. Nothing is touching the exhaust under the car.
When idling the exhaust produces a noticeable putt-putt sound. Toyota rep (not dealer) went for a ride with me and feels it is typical of a car “for this mileage” (same as dealer told me). I stated it did not do it before and was told cars wear in and after a while characteristics change.