I bought this 95 ford escort as an easy on the gas beater car. When you turn the key off and pull it out of the ignition it keeps running. Sometimes for 2-3 seconds, sometimes as much as 10 seconds. Then it shuts off. It doesn't diesel, It just stays running. I think it may be in the wiring.
View 1 Replies95 Ford Escort shuts down like you turn off the key. This just started happening with no warning. Idles fine had to replace the plugs,wires and the dist.pack.
View 1 RepliesI drive a 1995 Ford Escort (don't laugh, even though it has 328,000 miles on it). The car is generally very reliable, despite its age. The one thing that repeatedly fails, however, is its clutch cylinders. The factory cylinders lasted about 150,000 miles. The after-market models, ever since, have failed almost like clockwork every 18,000 to 20,000 miles. Either the master or slave has had to be replaced.
The longest they've gone is about 29,000 miles, but then both had to be replaced. No mechanic who has seen this car can explain why it would eat clutch cylinders so regularly. The only clue I have is their proximity to the firewall, and this model Escort was recalled for firewall problems early in its life. Why clutch cylinders would fail so regularly, and what I might be able to do to prevent it?
Jumped small wire on starter straight to battery and started right up, the starter kept running until I pulled the jumper off. Starter relay? Ignition switch?
What ever it was it must have knocked it loose because I put the small wire back on the starter and it fired right up. Crazy thing.
i have a 1991 ford escort pony i w driving it fine all day then all a sudden i stopped to get water the car died when it did i tried to restart it , it bogged out and didnt start i waited a hr it started idled for 20 mins reved it up everything seemed ok but then i went to actually drive it i got 1/3 of a mile if that and it died on the side of the road with my lil daughter in the car and 104 degrees outside. me and my father thought it was a furl filter or pump but in the primer valvei t has plenty of fuel and pressure. what it could be?
View 1 RepliesCar stopped running when I spray started fluid it starts up so I changed the Fuel pump and it still not starting?
View 1 RepliesThe cruise control and the overdrive off dash lights go out when I turn on the headlights. The cruse control and overdrive still work but the dash lights are not lit. It is a 95 4door explorer.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1995 Ford Windstar. When I turn on the air conditioning, the compressor clutch does not engage despite having sufficient refrigerant in the system. Jumping current directly to the compressor clutch will engage the clutch, so it's not the clutch. I suspect the relay for the compressor clutch inside the CCRM may be bad, but am not sure how to test it. I have a Haynes repair manual, but how to test this device?
View 12 RepliesAfter replacing my battery cables (Pos and Ground),My Truck stalls every time I turn on the headlights. The truck stays running with the parking lights on or if no lights on at all. Could I have mixed up the 2 positive accessory wires?
View 13 RepliesMy radiator is running hot and I cannot tell if I need a thermostat or if I have issues with the coolant fan. 4 cyl. auto.
View 1 RepliesI have a '95 Dodge Stealth Twin Turbo that wants to overheat when running the a/c...have repaired electrical fans, replaced water pump, flushed the cooling system to no avail. Looking for info about waterless coolants?
View 19 RepliesI have a a 1995 GMC Sonoma 5-speed 4 cylinder pickup. When I drive this truck for any amount of time and turn it off for a few minutes (0 minutes - 1 hourish) the truck runs really rough for the first minute and almost dies. Then it will start running normally again after I've putted down the road a block or two. A couple of times this truck has died completely after running rough and won't start again for almost an hour afterwards.
View 1 RepliesMy running lights aren't working. My father (who has been working on cars since the mid 1960's and now fiddles with small farm equipment too)- checked every single fuse - on the passenger side panel, and both right and left panels under the hood. All fuses were good. A couple of years ago I had a problem with the brake lights (not the third one) not working and it turned out it was in the turn signal lever. We had tried the fuses, wires, etc. and couldn't figure it out. So I'm thinking that the running lights are something weird like that too. Especially since I can't drive at night without any running lights.
View 2 RepliesMy wife drives a 1995 Chevy Astro. It has twice now stopped running with no warning. This happened while driving down the road. The headlights and engine cut out, but the turn signals, power windows, radio display, and such have power. Once it sits for a couple of hours, it starts right up and runs fine for weeks.
Is there an electrical connection of some kind between the fuel pump and the headlights? What might be going wrong?
My CEL turned on about 2 weeks ago. I took it to autozone and they ran it, and it came up as that my car is running too lean. Would this have to do with my MAF sensor? Also, It seems that my car is also burning oil. I have a 06 passat 2.0T.
View 24 RepliesMy 95 Jeep GC is a great car, but it is now behaving too strangely to ignore. At about 1200 RPMs, when I'm just lightly hitting the gas, the car starts to have a "sputter" feel to it, like it's running out of gas. Then, after running it on the highway for a couple of hours (I live 2 hours from the nearest city in Alaska) the turning radius practically disappears and there is a horrible clunking noise and feel when I try to make a sharp turn. This goes away after driving it slowly through town for a while. The sputtering only happens at 1200. I've had it at 3 different mechanics, and no one can figure it out. I've emptied the gas tank and filled it with Premium and added 'heat' to it. I've had all the fluids changed out. I see this as two seperate issues, but can not figure out the sputtering thing at all.
View 5 RepliesI have a 95 neon that is running a very high Idle. When you remove your foot off the break & gas it idles around 40 mph. Iv just replaced all the breaks and its melting the new ones already. I am receiving the following check Engine Codes: 12, 25, 32, 15. I have completed the following repairs:
1) replaced all vacuum lines.2) removed EGR Valve to clean, replaced all lines. No more engine code 32, however, now I am getting engine code: 12, 23, 25, 15.3) removed intake manifold to replace the PCV Valve as well as all hoses from the oil separator.4) replaced the IAC sensor5) used ohm meter to check all wiring from IAC to computer. no issues.6) replaced the TPC sensor7) used a ohm meter to check all wiring from the TPC to the computer. No issues.8) used a ohm meter to see if the air temperature sensor was working correctly. No issues9) checked wiring from Air temperature sensor to computer, no issues.
The car continues to idle extremely high to the point it is not safe to drive. By feeling the throttle body where the IAC lets in air, it feels like its comply open. I pulled the IAC out of the throttle body while it was plugged in and ground to the engine block. When you turn the car on you can see the IAC move, but it never seems to want to shut off air supply.
It appears the computer is telling it to let more air in even though its very high idle. I replaced the computer about 5 years ago. what would cause this?! Im to the point iv put in way too much time and money already. but I don't want to buy a new car when it could just be a $50 fix.
I have a '95 Chevy Caprice Classic 4.3L Sedan, and it cranks but does not start.This started happening after about a year of the car just sitting in the driveway. Before she sat for that year, she ran just fine.
I am under the impression that the problem is the fuel pump, it is NOT running when the ignition key is turned to the "on" position,this is very confusing because a volt meter placed on the connectors going directly into the pump motor shows 12+ Volts when the key is turned, for about 2 seconds, as it should, however the pump motor does not run. Also, I have already replaced the pump relay AND the entire pump assembly (though the pump I used as a replacement was also pulled from a junkyard vehicle).
The MOST confusing part is, when either of the fuel pump motors that I have are plugged directly into the car battery, they run just fine.
The fan inside my air filter box, or turbo charger intercooler (not sure of correct technical term) is running on and off for several hours after engine has been shut off. I believe this is running my battery down. Is this intercooler/fan suppose to run after the engine is shut off?
View 4 Replies2000 Ford Excursion - ac keeps running after the car is turned off and the key is removed. Air is actually coming out the vents!!! My wife can turn the ac off with the console switch. Nothing else is running
View 3 RepliesWent outside to start my '99 V6 and nothing! No interior lights, no door chime, no annoying ding ding with the key in the ignition. The car ran great yesterday but I noticed it sounded like the cooling fan was running long after the car was turned off in my garage.
I tried using a car starter/charger and charged it up for 3 hours - was reading a positive charge on the gauge- but it won't start. When I get ready to crank the car with the charger attached to it, the fan noise kicks in again but it isn't coming from the radiator fan- it sounds like it is coming from under the air intake for the air filter.
When I attempt to start the car,I can best describe the sound as a machine gun like cranking noise that lasts as long as I turn the key. I am hoping it isn't the starter. The battery is less than 2 years old with about 10k miles on it.