02 elantra 138418 miles. Before I cleaned throttle body engine idled fine, but know I can't get engine to idle below 1500 rpm, check engine lite is on, went to advance auto parts, he pulled code, he said idle air control stuck, i am hoping there is something i can do before spending $ and replacing it.
View 6 RepliesThe car is an '05 elantra, 97,000 miles, auto., car is new to me. First time on the freeway today, 30 miles @75-85 mph, at the end of the off ramp I could feel it surging, shift to neutral rpm's went to 1500, hoss the gas and back to normal. On the return trip off ramp, went to neutral, jab the gas, everything OK. I'm going to clean the throttle blade, check things, etc.
View 3 RepliesMy wife drives a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT. Recently the car started idling very rough with rpm jumps back and forth from 1500 to 2500 rpm. The check engine light came on and threw a code for the IAC. I also notice a clicking sound coming from the engine and I can see sparks arching at the coil/plug wire. The arching is happening at the coil with the numbers 1 & 4.
The car is difficult to drive. It shakes and surges and isn't pleasant to drive at all. These issues started happening very recently. The car ran great up until now. We've stopped driving it for the time being until we solve the problem.
We had the car serviced a few years ago and they changed the IAC and mentioned something about a gray wire that we should watch out for.
I'm not really sure what the issue is. I don't know if it is the spark plugs, wires, or coil. Or it could be the IAC or something else. I'm comfortable working on the car myself, but I would rather not try fixing many things if it is just one thing actually wrong.
So far, the only thing I've tried is to spray some carb cleaner into the throttle body towards the IAC in hopes that it would clean it and solve my problems.
Where the IAC is located. I want to try remove and clean it, but I'm unsure of exactly where it it. I know it is somewhere on the throttle body or intake manifold, but I'm not sure exactly what I'm looking for.
So this problem came about after I changed the timing belt on my wife's 05' elantra.
The idle will bounce from 1.5k to 3k exactly and continue this for as long as the car is on. Some times it will stay at some point within that range for around 2 seconds then continue to bounce.
I checked the belt today, and it seems to be tight enough but not to loose either...maybe I screwed the timing up? But would that cause this problem?
Here is what I have done:
Replaced the IAC valve
Cleaned the MAP sensor (no MAF sensor on this engine, that I know of...)
Checked and cleaned the spark plugs
Cleaned all electrical terminals
Checked the resistance in the throttle control sensor
Checked for vaccum leaks with carb cleaner
Cleaned PCV valve (3 times)
Replaced Air filter
Probably a few things I am missing in there, but nothing has been a success.
New iac and now runs at 3000, replaced iac, input shft speed sensor,and #3 fuel inlector because of codes. Have factory shop manual. Old iac had higher than factory ohm resistance by 5 ohms on each test of terminals 1 and 2 and then on 2 and 3. new iac [wells] is 4 ohms higher on both tests . Old iac ran at 1200 rpm new at 3000 rpm. tps is smooth on resistance test so assume it is ok. Blocked off all hoses to intake manifold to check for open pcv or evap. valve but still the same. 2001 elantra gls is giving me a fit. soft reset of ecm did nothing. Pulling pigtail on iac will drop rpm's to about 1100 but runs rough.
View 8 Replies2004 Elantra - 65,000 miles: Heat and AC works fine when vehicle is moving. At idle or parked it just blows air.
View 2 RepliesI have 2005 elantra ve and I got rough idle stop for a while.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2003 Elantra GLS that has two issues that may be related. The first one the engine will shut off for no apparent reason. Doesn't matter how fast, or if the a/c is on or not. I used to be able to start it right up after I pulled over, now I have to wait about 15 seconds. Starts up fine and runs like nothing happened. There is no particular time frame when it will shut down. Maybe once a month, then happen twice in a week.
Second issue is when I have to stop at a red light and have the a/c on, it seems to have an intermittent miss, meaning after it does miss it idles fine for a while and then misses again. It seems like a miss to me, feels like the car almost shuts down but catches itself and will idle fine until next miss. If I turn off the a/c I do not feel it miss. If I have the a/c on and put it into neutral, it does not appear to miss near as much.
The check engine light has come on twice for a day or so and then goes out. Car runs fine when it does. Below is what I have done since I purchased the car used at 104,000 miles. current mileage - 117,000
* changed timing belt, transmission fluid, brake fluid, changed oil at 104,000 miles when bought.
* installed new radiator recently
* installed crankshaft sensor (due to error code when checked)
Other than that, car runs great, accelerates good, idles good
My 05 Elantra 2.0, 5 speed won't idle when cold til I drive it a few hundred feet. It will stall. Only then will the idle rise to what it's supposed to be. Is there some sort of cold idle sensor/module that needs replacing?
View 2 RepliesWhen I am driving my elantra (engine warm), say I pull up to a red light or I am in a 'drive thru' my RPM's will go to under 500 and normally go under 400 which causes the whole car to shake and sound like it will stall. The car also has the issue with the Air Conditioning on that makes the vehicle have a deep rattling sound along with the very low idle which follows with my lights dimming or lightly flickering.
Milage: 177,000
Current Codes:
P0422 (catalyst 2 efficiency below threshold bank 1)
U0D00 (What that is)
As the title says the 2004 Elantra only has a/c at idle and low speed. It started with the a/c stopping, and a mechanic gave me as story about the wiring going to the compressor being faulty. He jumped a wire from the drivers side fan to the compressor. It turned on the compressor and I had cold air again. or so i thought.
Now, it's cold at idle or slow around town stuff, but as soon as I get on the highway it stops working and blows outside temp air. Is it the compressor? If not, I wondered if the fan (drivers side) is turning at highway speeds and not back on till I stop.
Below is a link to a video showing what my 2003 Hyundai Elantra is doing. It is idling very rough (Jerks at idle) and can actually be heard in the exhaust. I think it may be miss firing?? Does not do it at speeds over 60. Under 60 it can be felt at times, but only at low RPMs. [URL] ....
View 16 Replies04 Elantra GLS, AC works great and is icy cold at higher RPMs but gets hot when stopped at idle or driving low speed. Fan works, refrigerant level is correct. At low idle speeds the compressor just shuts off. A few minutes later or if the engine speed picks up it will engage and start cooling again. AC tech didn't think it was the compressor since the pressure difference between the high and low sides was in the correct range. Has this issue fixed by replacing the pressure sensor/switch on the high pressure side? It doesn't look like there is a low pressure side sensor that I can see.
View 2 RepliesI had some problems with my Elantra and I fixed (or tried to) them all this weekend. I needed a new IAC motor, the motor was reving up and down and I tested it, then changed it. I needed a fuel injector and changed that. I needed a lower thermostat housing and changed that.
These changes resulted in the following problems. The vehicle now revs at a high idle all the time at approximately 3000. What are the causes of this?
I know that when I was burping the coolant system (changing out all the hoses and the thermostat housing) I got antifreeze sprayed all over the top of the motor.
Here is the problems that I have now. Didn't have these before.....
The engine idles at or about 3000 rpm. Constant from startup until shutdown. It idles down when you shift it into gear but that is because of the strain on the motor with the brake used.
The transmission is now having problems shifting from 1st to 2nd. I checked the fluid, its good. There is however antifreeze on top of the transmission by some sensors. Do these sensors have anything to do with the shifting?
I have an '04 Elantra GLS with 274k on it. I've been caring for it myself with basic maintenance; that said, I changed the oil in it about 100 miles ago. Halfway through my drive home it started to idle rough under 1k rpm.
I've noticed a lot of other Hyundai's have the same issue. What would be/is the most COMMON cause of this? Timing belt? Basic tune up? I moved a state away from my local shop and I refuse to go to a Midas/Jiffy/ect.
2002 elantra hesitates and sometimes stalls staring from rest. Worse when cold but still sluggish after warm up. Where do I start?
View 7 Replies2002 Elantra idles high, 2.5 rpm, just when I start it up in the morning. The second I put brake on and put it into gear, it settles down and doesn't do it again until the next morning.
View 3 RepliesIt has 158,000 miles on it and you can feel the engine vibration through the steering wheel, seats, and floorboard, and especially through the gas and brake pedals! Under the hood the engine shakes in place and very badly . it stops at about 1500 rpm and got worse when I installed a intake...
View 2 RepliesI had a rough idle and now car wont start. 2002 elantra, 4 cylinder. replaced tps, replaced fuel filer, cleaned IAC. I can hear fuel pump car wont stay running...
View 22 RepliesMy engine temp gets too hot when revving the engine but cools down at idle. The top rad hose is hot and the bottom rad hose is cool. I'm suspecting a stuck thermostat?
View 5 RepliesI recently replaced the water pump, timing belt and all other belts in my 2005 Elantra. The car runs great, but there is a whirring/whining noise at idle when I have the car in park and in drive when I'm stopped at a light. You do not hear the noise when I accelerate and you do not hear the noise at any speed above idle.
At idle the whirring/whining noise can be heard whether the A/C is on or off. I have done some research and some causes for a noise like that have been a bad power steering pump, alternator, or pulleys.
The Elantra has 106,300 miles and gives me 26 MPG. I love this car. It has been the most dependable car I have ever owned. I plan to maintain it and hopefully last me for another 100,000 miles.