I own a 2002 Hyundai Elantra and I was driving it it started decelerating but my foot was on the gas and it died I tried starting it but it did not start. we tried spraying starting filed in the engine and still nothing.
View 11 RepliesThe car has been sitting since last March (11 months). I have 3/4 tank of gas. The starter turns and the car almost starts. I suspect old gas is the problem because it sounds as if it wants to start and the gas is old. Could it be the injectors are clogged? If so, is there a way I can clean these myself? Or maybe another diagnosis?
View 2 RepliesWe have a 2007 Certified Pre-Owned Hyundai Elantra that overall we're quite happy with. Several weeks ago, the engine light came on, and after a nightmarish week (the shop put in a faulty O2 sensor, although we didn't know it at the time - the engine light just kept coming back on. Took it to dealer, who I prefer not to go to -- it's far, for one thing -- and they said the O2 sensor was faulty. Dealer replaced it, got my money back from the shop, and no more engine light).
HOWEVER, the exact same day that the engine light came on for the very first time, it took me several tries to turn on the car. This happens sporadically, and it's taken up to 6 tries to start the car. (No stalling, though). My wife has had no problems at all with her key, although she drives the car somewhat less than I do, but not by much. She thinks it might have something to do with my key. I think it's related to the O2 sensor, although that issue is now fixed (I hope) and I'm still having trouble starting the car.
Can not get it to start. Turns over. Replaced wires, coils, ECM, check fuses and fuel pump is on. Power to coils.
View 5 RepliesMy Mom has a 2009 Hyundai Elantra, 25k, good car no problems until yesterday. Turn the key and it cranks (turns the engine over for a second) then the starter kicks off (spins real and stops spinning the engine). It won't start like this. The car only has 25k on it, with the Hyundai 100k warranty.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2015 Elantra GT. Car has been great up until the last month. I have been getting in car and starting it. It starts and immediately stalls. You turn key off and then try starting again and the engine turns over but does not start. I am pretty sure it is a security problem. If you arm car then unarm it will start again and is fine. the problem is completely sporadic. Just last week I came out of work, turned car on,, it stalled immediately tried to start again and engine just turned over. armed and dis armed security with no luck.
Called a tow Truck and he ended up disconnecting the negative cable from the battery for 5 seconds and then reconnecting. The car started right away and was fine for a few days and now has stalled a couple times since immediately after starting but now if you try again it starts. I had it at the dealership today to have it checked, there are no codes and they could not simulate the problem so for now I have to live with it. I use this car for work and count on it to start each time. I should also mention it has a remote car starter that was put in by a separate company but was done through the dealership when the car was first purchased.
Just got the new 2013 elantra 4 door sedan limited w tech package a couple of days ago...
I have the push button start and it works well.. no problems there.. but I noticed there is a small light on the button and it never turns on.. even at night. The font itself which reads "Start/Stop the engine" does glow blue at night or when the lights are turned on..
Last year, when the passenger's side CV boot ripped and all that grease few around, it started to make that familiar clicking sound when making turns. I had a heck of a time replacing it. Did not like to doing the work.
Now, the driver's side boot is ripped. Grease everywhere. The clicking sound is just starting to be noticeable. Can I just wash out the CV joint and repack it with grease and a new boot? Or, should I just replace the CV joint?
I have one 2004 Hyundai Elantra. It was parked outside for almost a year without being used. I recently installed a new battery and had the front brakes/rotors replaced - they were rusted on so tight the guy had to partly saw them off. So now that I have set the scene, why this car turns off in sharp turns. Luckily this only happened twice as i was driving slowly and turning into my driveway. I can turn the ignition and it goes right back on.
View 3 RepliesMy 2001 Toyota camry has twice just barely started. The car normally starts just fine but there are 2 times after I had been driving and making frequent stops and starts then the car barely turns over when I try to start it. Both times I did manage to get it started and then it ran fine and when I stopped it at home it restarted fine. Each time I also noticed that the clock had reset itself. There was a period of about 3 weeks between the two times it did this. Both days that this happened it was very hot outside. Why this is happening?
View 8 Replies2001 f150 4x4 5.4 205k ... This truck is not my daily driver but I use it about once or twice a week. Last night I drove it to the store and it ran great. As good as ever.
This morning it won't start. It cranks and the battery is strong but no bang. It was cold. Just below freezing for the first time this year. No blown fuses where would you start?
So my toddler turned on my dome light on Friday and I didn't realize it all weekend. Monday morning the battery was D.E.D. Charged it all day then jumped it and it turns over but no start. Took it to Autozone for a deep charge and test and ended up with a new battery. Installed it and the engine turns over but still won't start. It ran fine on Friday. This car is my commuter and I don't want to spend the money to take it to the shop. Why it won't now start? Could the dead battery have killed something else while it sat in my driveway?
View 5 Replies2001 explorer, SOHC. Sometimes just lately (5 times in the past three weeks) the engine just does not start. It turns over just fine but makes no attempt to actually start. When it does this it will after a few attempts start right up like nothing was ever wrong. It doesn't seem to matter whether it is cold or warm. Intermittent problems are very hard to diagnose .....
View 10 Replies2001 Ford Ranger 4.0 - 250k miles had the original plugs and wires ....
First things first - I changed them one at a time and confirmed the truck started and ran after each one was changed. I changed all the plugs on the drivers side with no issue. 4,5,6 ... Then I changed plug 3, rear passenger side plug closet to the firewall.
Truck will not start, turns over great, but will not start. I have confirmed I am getting spark. No clue what could have changed, I just pulled out the old plug and wire put in a new one and it wouldn't start.
My father-in-law said if you have spark check fuel. I recall seeing a post about someone breaking a cable for the coil pack but i have checked and i see nothing broken.
When I try to turn on the car it cranks and seems like it is about to start but just keeps cranking. I have put dry gas, shoot starter fluid up the air filter and tried jumping it. I have managed to get it started but dies a second later. Not sure what to do, someone told me that it might be the fuel filter.
View 2 RepliesI have an 01 Elantra GLS, automatic.
The initial problem started 3 months ago. The car would surge at highway speeds intermittently, but not throw any codes. It would only happen every couple of weeks.
First I replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter. The car seemed ok at first, but eventually bucked while driving at hwy speeds.
Next I replaced the fuel regulator, which is located in the tank, if I am correct.
The problem continued. Next, I replaced the throttle position sensor. Again the car would run as normal, but soon enough it did the same thing. In addition, it also wouldn't always start on the first try. Pretty quickly it wouldn't start at all.
I was able to get it started and drive it home, however the car had no power and seemed like it would stall if i pressed an the accelerator too much.
I had to replace the starter next, and I also replaced both the crank position sensor and the cam position sensor.
I do believe the engine was flooded at some point. I was able to get it to start, but it still ran rough. I replaced the plugs twice. The first set I replaced looked pretty dark. I suspect it was because of all the cranking but no fire.
The last time I got it to start I did get a misfire code for cylinders 1&4, and it still runs rough and has no power. After shutting the engine off, I was unable to get it started again. That is when I put in the second set of plugs.
I have verified that the injectors are getting power at the same time as the plugs. I have ohmed out the primary and secondary sides of both coil packs and they are the same and within specs. I have also ohmed out the injectors and they are also all the same and within range. I have verified 12v power to the coil packs and injectors.
I have ohmed out the plug wires and they appear to be good. the resistance increases with the length of the wires. Is it possible that I have lost compression in cylinders 1&4 because of flooding the engine?
PS. The mileage is 155k
I have a 2005 Elantra. A few weeks I parked it after returning from work. The next morning not even the remote would work and the power locks would also not work. I didn't leave the light on either. I tried to jump it, and nothing. I bought a brand new battery, still nothing, not even the headlights or power locks will work. Is there something I can check to fix myself before having it towed to a mechanic?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 elantra gt. two days ago it stopped while driving and wont start again. I towed home and brought a technician. he told me it was the crankshaft position sensor. I replaced it but still wont start. I recently changed the battery, spark plugs and timing belt. less than 2000 miles on since then.
View 4 RepliesI just purchased an '01 Elantra a few days ago. The car starts and runs when the engine is cool, although it hesitates during acceleration, and when it's warm outside it bounces between 1000 and 2000 RPM in neutral and park. The last day or so it's been chilly and the idle has been steady, but low (500 RPM). Once the engine warms up, however, if you shut it off for a few minutes and try to restart it cranks but won't start until the engine cools off.
The previous owner replaced the fuel pump, cam sensor, crank sensor, spark plugs and wires, and I replaced the intake gasket and the idle air control valve, all with no effect. I can hear the fuel pump when I key it on, and I've checked for spark at each of the plugs, and even pulled the injectors and cranked it a few times to be sure that they were firing. Everything seems to be in working order.
I was away on a trip for a week after coming back my 03 hyundai elantra wont start. Everything seems to be good when the key is in the on position. The stereo and the lights are on. But when I turn the key to start the car everything shuts off and the car wont start. Then the lights or stereo wont even turn on. Its not the battery I took the battery to get checked they said the battery is fine.
View 4 RepliesThis has been happening for awhile now. I will drive somewhere, distance isn't a problem, and then after I'm done, I'll go to start my car, and it won't start. It won't turn over or whatever the term is. The starter tries, but won't bite. Sometimes it will start and I can drive for a bit before it will die about a block or 2 later.
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