Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Transmission Shifting On Its Own When Drive Around 25 - 40 Mph
Jan 30, 2014
I have read the common problems and went ahead and replaced the Throttle Position Sensor, TPS. Also had a complete tranny flush done. The shifting problem persists, when I drive around 25-40 mph, the car will constantly upshift or downshift on its own even. Sorta like I get to 30 mph and it suddenly decides to downshift, like it has become ultra sensitive to minor increases in torgue(?) or can't decide if it wants to be in 3rd or 4th gear. Did check with Jiffy Lube to make sure they replaced it with SP3 fluid and they did. What else this might be? Check engine light comes on now and then and currently is off.
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I have a 2001 hyundai accent GL the transmission has started shifting hard when it shifts into drive. It shifts fine and smooth from first to second but when it shifts into drive it hits drive hard and sometimes it acts like it doesn't want to shift and if you let up on the gas it will go ahead and shift, but when it shifts to overdrive it seems fine but hits hard when it down shifts back to drive. Also I have noticed a couple times when it goes to shift into drive the engine seems like it revs up some but when you let off the gas it goes ahead and shifts.
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I've been hearing a quiet 'thump' when shifting. In particular, when first letting up the clutch starting out in 1 but also when shifting between gears when the clutch is fully down such as from 2->3.
I thought perhaps a fluid change was in order since I'm at 110,000 miles. It didn't make any difference. (I used Mobil 1 GL5 which according to independent tests is safe on yellow metals.)
So then I wondered if it's the engine mounts, but I'm not sure what it sounds like when they need to be replaced or if simply shifting between gears while driving as described above would cause a worn one to 'thump'.
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i have a 2001 elantra with 136k. the automatic transmission (which otherwise shifts very smoothly and shows no sign of problems) shifts suddenly and erratically when i'm driving at a constant speed. I'll be traveling along (speed doesn't matter), and it will suddenly downshift, then upshift, then downshift, etc. this started off being very occasional, but now it randomly shifts every 5-10 seconds.
I've changed and checked the fluid, and tried replacing the Input Speed Sensor and the Output Speed sensor...that didn't fix it. it also does not blow a check engine code. I'm convinced there must be a sensor somewhere that is faulty. it really seems as though the transmission is electronically confused.
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I have a 2004 Elantra with about 132,000 miles. I was out driving today and the transmission started to shift rough. Than at a stop light the car would not accelerate. I had to put the car into low or 2nd gear to get the car to move. Than the radio started to cut in and out and than the gauges on the dash started to turn on and off. When I arrived home and parked and turned the car off, it won't start back up.
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O.K. first of all I had an issue with the Odometer pointer being jumpy. Sometimes it wouldn't move. Now I replaced the input sensor at first and did not fix the problem. I replaced the output sensor and fixed it. "BUT", Now, I have a problem with the transmission shifting. I get an engine light while driving and the 2nd gear seems to take its time shifting and when it does it make the left side drive shaft kick in hard and spends my wheel to a screeching effect. Plus a thump on the transmission. I rechecked the sensor for connection and reinstalled. Drove the car still have the same issue?
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My 2006 Elantra (54,000 miles) shifts really, really hard when it's not cold and passes through the 35 mph range -- hard enough to make you glad you've got your seatbelt on. I've taken it to my regular mechanic and now it's in an automatic transmission shop.
My mechanic changed the fluid (twice), and took it through a "learning sequence". The fluid didn't look that bad and he reported that there were no codes to work with. He thinks I'm going to have to get a new transmission.
The AT shop has confirmed that there are no codes to work with and that the problem begins at 143 degrees. They tell me that the transmission is shifting into a higher gear without releasing the lower gear. They tried replacing a couple of solenoids, but that yielded no change in behavior. Now, they're telling me they "think" I need a new computer. I'm just afraid the trial & error approach is going to cost me a boat-load.
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Question regarding a 89 Cadillac Eldorado 4.5 V8 FWD, Transmission - 260,000 miles on car, runs great. Last couple of months, I have noticed that it will only shift into Over Drive when the car is cold, sat overnight. It will shift 4 or 5 times into Over Drive no problem. When car warms up, then it will not shift into Over Drive ever again, and I will get a 39 error code. Are there solenoids that I can replace, if so where are they? I'm not sure where to start with this problem?
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1986 F150 3spd Auto 300 v6. My truck will not shift out of 1st in Drive, to shift into second I have to column shift to 2nd. 20mph top speed and idk what to do to fix it. I would like to put a 5 spd manual in it cause I would like to drive over 50mph.
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2007 Chevy Impala3.5L 6-cyl Flex Fuel engine w/ 4 speed auto trans52,800 miles
Extreme driving conditions maintenance schedule kept.Transmission standard service done @ 32,800 miles which was 20k ago.
PROBLEM:
1) Twice in past three days, when shifting from reverse to drive the transmission has slipped, revving hard with rpms spiked above 3,000 for about 2 seconds before engaging the forward drive gear.
Normally I come to a complete stop of all reverse motion with foot fully on the brake pedal before shifting. Admittedly, I got sloppy the first time noted and still had very slight reverse motion when I shifted.
2) Several times late today, while driving uphill at approx 35 - 45 mph, when the car downshifted there was an extremely brief moment of transmission slippage with spiked rpms. It was so brief each time that at first I thought I'd imagined it until it happened again. Then it did it once on a level surface in a parking lot when having shifted from reverse to drive without problem and was gently accelerating the transmission again slipped for just the briefest moment when the normal automatic shift point was reached. So far, all incidences while driving have been so extremely brief that it was the merest hint of a hiccup.
3) When bringing the car to a complete stop, such as at a stoplight or when parking, as the transmission automatically shifts for the braking of speed, sometimes there is a minor but noticeable thunk sound seeming to come from underneath the car, I'd judge to be somewhere about under the level of the dashboard or slightly forward of that. Could that be from a worn or broken transmission mount? And, if so, could that be somehow causing the slippage problem?
4) This transmission has always, even since new, allowed more roll after being shifted into park, the engine shut off and my foot taken off the brake than any other car I have ever driven. If I forget to engage the parking brake quite tightly, the car will roll forward quite a few inches before the parking pawl holds it, even on the level. I've been told both by the dealership shop and the independent mechanic shop that there is no problem and that this particular engine/transmission combination tends to do this although my particular car seems to do so somewhat worse than average.
ACTIONS TAKEN SO FAR:
1) Have made an appointment to take the car into the mechanic.
2) Will check the transmission fluid level per instructions in the owner's manual tomorrow when I have daylight to see what the fluid level and color on the stick looks like.
NOTE:
1) I periodically check the transmission fluid level and it has never been low or discolored. The shop checked it for me, along with making sure everything else was road trip worthy, for an emergency 1,000 round trip in late November, just three months ago. No problems then.
2) No evidence on the garage floor of any leakage. Garage floor is dry.
QUESTIONS:
1) I presume the first step is for the mechanic to check the fluid level and examine for any leaks?
2) If the mechanic cannot duplicate the problem in a test drive, then what?
3) If the problem cannot be duplicated and no apparent cause found, I presume that the prudent course of action is to go ahead and have standard transmission maintenance done (i.e. drop the pan, check for debris, drain and replace with fresh fluid) then see if that halts the slippages?
4) Given that this car has already had failures of the power steering pump, water pump, and part of the wiring harness, and has a fuel pump starting to get noisy, despite aggressively maintaining all standard/preventive maintenance, that perhaps it is time to think of replacing this car, especially if there proves to be any truly major transmission problem found?
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So my car has recently begun having an issue shifting hard into drive after it warms up. It doesnt shift weird in any other gear or while driving. I had the trans temp sensor replaced last year under the tsb due to it shifting weird in all gears and a CEL. I was thinking either the fluid level or another bad sensor.
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I bought my '07 Passat 2.0T Wagon as a CPOVW 6 weeks ago. It had 4700 miles on it. I complained about the transmission having a delayed engagement when shifting into reverse and drive. (it drives normally however with positive shifts and is very enjoyable) I was told it was normal and not to worry. (could it be designed-in to soften the engagement?).
This week I noticed a light "thunk" in the right front when re-applying power while coasting below 40 MPH. I never noticed it before but I usually strive for smooth driving so that may be why. I've had other Aisin Warners but they were in Volvos. I got out of a '99 Volvo Cross Country because I didn't trust the driveline. Am I going down the same road?
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I have a 02 f150 4x4 5.4 135 k the transmission will not shift into drive unless you rev it up to about 1500 rpm and when it shifts it goes in very hard but when you get moving it seems to work ok but every time you stop or slow way down it does the same thing. It works fine in reverse and the oil and filter is good. I am thinking TC but i dont know ...
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I have a 94 E350 with the 460 and the E4OD trans. that has only 30K on it.
Last weekend I took it on a 250 mile trip (one way) and it ran beautiful until the final steep hill to our vacation house. It started vibrating when it went to down shift and wouldn't pick up any speed, the OD off light was blinking. When I pushed the OD button and it cleared right up. Ran beautiful until I tried to climb that same hill again (same thing happened). It showed the same symptom when I tried to back up a steep driveway during the same trip.
Now it no longer does the vibrating but now has harsh/firm up shifts. Downshifts are smooth though, but shifting into reverse and drive are bit clunky too.
The codes I pulled were KOEO 212 and 668. After I erased the codes the 668 didn't come back. But I did change the MLPS to the new updated one from Ford and its still doing it.
I also found the 40amp mega fuse under the hood was blown too, related? Could a 1/2 qt over filled trans. cause this now too? In NH I added some fluid thinking it was low because I could not get a clear reading on the dipstick but I think the level was up there.
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Our Rv makes a strange "clank" noise whenever we shift into drive. It is a 87 Ford Econoline 350 with the 460 7.5l. The noise is from the back of the Rv kind of near or in the rear differential. It just started over this past weekend.
We live in Alaska and the mechanics are 3 hours away - do you think we would be able to make it to the mechanics and not have to get a tow? How long we could go without fixing the problem?
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So here in Wisconsin for the last two weeks we have had nothing but ice. That being said, I have a '96 ranger 3.0L, automatic transmission, 4x4. 4 wheel is inoperable at the moment, that's a different story. Here's my question: with the ice, there has been a lot of tire spinning at high RPM's, the other day, I was again stuck on the ice and rocked back and forth had some pushers, thought we were getting somewhere but I went to shift gears and all of a sudden had nothing. No Reverse, Drive, OD, L, 2. Did I blow my tranny? There was no noise or grinding, but the OD light seems to blink. Is there something I can check or look at?
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I have a 2008 Ford Escape 2.3L V6. About 67K miles on it.
Recently there's been some transmission problems. When the selector is in Drive, it will take abnormally long to shift into the next gear at normal speeds, and will redline if i hit it hard, but if i let off the gas, it will shift. Never hard.
If I put the selector in 2, it will do the same thing, eventually shifting into that second gear.
Gear selector on one, well, it obviously stays in 1st.
Reverse is fine. All shifts are smooth just take forever, and I get the wrench in the dash (means drivetrain/throttle fault as per manual) only after driving a while. The tranny fluid is still very clean, and this as been going on for 2 months.
Ive taken it to about 6 different places. Half say new tranny off the bat. Other half says clean fluid for that long after the problem started means its def. an electrical problem, and that makes the most sense to me. What it could be?
I'm thinking:
-Tranny Range Positioning Sensor
-Input/Output speed sensor
-TCM reprogramming/replace
- I'll even go with reflashing the PCM.
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I have an automatic 2010 Elantra Touring and I drive 115 miles a day (4 days a week) with it (currently have 38K miles). Part of the drive goes up over an 1100 foot foothill, so I change elevation of about 800 feet on the drive. Over the last two weeks, I have noticed the transmission shifting a little rougher and at higher RPMs (everywhere and not just going up the hill). The transmission fluid level looks good, but I am wondering if I need to change the fluid and filter? Or is there something else I need to look at? I need this car to last another three years and want to make sure I take care of it right. Currently every 3500 miles I change the oil and rotate the tires, but I am just not sure about the transmission.
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My 2000 Civic DX has approx. 55K miles on it. For the past several weeks, the Automatic transmission gear is resisting/sticking about half the time when shifting from Drive to Park and vice versa. (In November 2010 I had a local mechanic-- whom I found on Yelp and who has done other work including replacing the timing belt--replace the ATF, telling him he had to use Honda fluid). What is causing the sticking?
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I have been having phantom automatic transmission problems with occasional harsh shifting, mostly up shifting through all the gears but sometimes downshifting. This problem started in May 2014, lasted off and on for several days, and then stopped occurring. There had been a few instances of small drops of fluid on my carport but nothing consistent. Then in September, the problem started again on the same basis: on/off again, nothing consistent. When I couldn’t locate the port under the hood to check the transmission fluid, I took the Elantra to the Boise Hyundai dealership to ask where the trans fluid port was located. My service rep told me that there was no port in the new vehicles and that the transmission fluid was not changed until 100,000 miles at a cost of $400. The service technicians could not find anything wrong with the vehicle when they hooked it up to their computers to check the error codes, and the vehicles would not perform the harsh shifting when they test drove the car. The techs re-set the adaptive points and I was sent on my way. A few days later, the harsh shifting started again on and off, phantom problem. I took the Elantra back into the dealership and told them to keep it for as many days as it took for a tech to drive it home and start it cold in the morning. The transmission did not perform the harsh shifting for the 80 miles the tech drove it home and back to the dealership for three days.
After driving the Elantra another week, the phantom trans problems re-occurred. After surfing the web and checking the Hyundai Customer Forum, all I could find was problems with 2010 Elantra transmissions and my service tech admitted that Hyundai had replaced thousands of 2010 transmissions.
Through the dealership I opened a Case File for my transmission problems because there is something definitely wrong with the vehicle and I want a new transmission, and will press my case to the max. I’ve kept a log since September, noted daily temperatures, and times the trans has performed harsh shifting. I’ve kept the problem to a minimum by letting the car warm up for about 5 minutes and will only drive it when the tachometer needle rests on 1,000 rpms.
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I purchased my car almost two years ago. I drive a lot for work, and my car now has 74000 kilometers on it.
So far its gone thru 3 CV Axle Joints on the drivers side, a radio unit, clutch bearing, fork, and fulcrum, and now there's something wore out in the rear suspension (squeaking and snapping).
The transmission in mine has also started to grind when shifting like the syncros are wearing out. Motor knocks when it's cold, sounds like the top end goes dry of oil when sitting overnight and takes awhile to get any.
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