Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Timing Belt Tightness And Whining Sound
Apr 25, 2014
I recently replaced the timing belt, tensioner, and roller in my car. Today I became concerned that I hadn't tightened the tensioner properly so I did a quick check (it was). I also noticed the timing belt felt a bit loose, so I tightened it to what I thought was about 1/4" deflection with 5lbs pressure—not what that feels like in that tight space.
When I started the car there was a noticeable whining sound. Before I changed the belt there was a slight whining sound (but there was no whine after I changed the belt). So I loosened the belt a bit and there's now a slight whine. I feel like the whine shouldn't be there but it's hard for me to imagine that the belt should be any looser since I can move it 1/4" inch without much effort.
So, should I be tightening the belt to the point where the whining is gone, or is a slight whine ok?
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I just installed a new timing belt, balance belt, idler, and both tensioner pulleys but am getting a little whine. I adjusted the balance belt but the noise does not change. No other belts or items are hooked up yet this was a dry run. Car seems to run fine and idles well. The hydraulic unit seems to be working fine and it's a OEM Hyundai piece.
Anything common I can look for that should stand out? 2002 Santa Fe 2.4L
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Changed the timing belt. Used the red mark up top and the cut in the block on the lower one to get TDC. Changed everything with new parts. Double checked the marks after the belts were on (rotated by hand through two full turns and checked to see if the marks were in the same spot). I followed the write up that was posted here by U95.
Anyway, the car won't start. It tries cranking, but won't actually start. There is fuel and the battery should be good to go. There shouldn't be any Fuel/Compression/Air issues.
I guess my question is: If the timing belt is not tightened enough, would that keep it from firing?
Also, in trying to crank it by key every thing sounds normal (no knocks or pings or valves getting bent sounds) and turning by hand gives just the little bit or normal resistance but spins nicely.
I'll probably take the battery to get it load (I used my tender to try and start it as well, didn't make a difference) tested tomorrow and then try the starter (shouldn't be bad though, only 60k on the car). Otherwise I'll have to teardown and start over.
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I just changed the timing belt on my sisters car and finished yesterday and drove it today. A check engine light came on so I went to check it out and P0016 popped up. I've done some research and people say that it might be that the timing belt is misaligned or loose. I tightened the belt not too tight but not too loose. Note: I also spilled coolant on the crankshaft pulley and a bit on the belt itself. The car idles rough when driving too. I will tomorrow take off the cover and check the tension of the belt.
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My 2003 Sante Fe has developed a rattling sound in the engine. The oil level has been good. I took it to a dealer for diagnoses and they told me that the engine was gunked up and the timing "chain" tensioner couldn't move to keep it tight and it was rattling. They put some engine cleaner in and changed the oil and wanted me back in 500 to clean it again. I did that again, but the rattle is still there. It gets a little quieter after I have driven it for a while.
My question is doesn't the Sante Fe have a timing belt? If that is the case what do you think the rattle is?
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We just had our timing belt changed today as well as the waterpump and fanbelts. It has a loud whining noise now and I don't know if it is even safe to drive back to the mechanic...
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Over the past week I've observed a whining sound. I've been trying to narrow it down and here is what I've got:
- It is speed related but not RPM related.
- It is not louder at any particular speed.
- It happens when coasting in neutral (manual transmission).
- The volume does not change based on whether turning or going straight.
- The pitch is mid/high, very similar to the whining from a too tight timing belt. And it gets lower and higher based on speed.
- As best as I can tell it is coming from the front driver's side.
- It is intermittent, although it's there more often than not.
- No uneven wear on front tires or other signs.
It's worth mentioning that another sound came soon after this whining. It's a sort of fluttering click sound. It becomes a lot louder when accelerating uphill. This also is speed related but not RPM related, in that the flutter/click increases in speed as the vehicle increases in speed.
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After 10-15 minutes of driving my car tonight I noticed a knocking sound and maybe a sort of whining sound that corresponded in speed/pitch to the RPMs. No warning lights, codes, temperature gauge ok, performance was fine.
I looked under the hood and I'm pretty sure it's coming from the left side of the engine (where all of the belts are). I didn't have time to isolate it further.
After 2 hours I started it up again and the noise was gone. As I drove I listened closely and after about 10 minutes I started hearing it again. It was quieter than before, but I assume it would have continued to get louder had I not arrived at home and turned off the car.
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I am deep into replacing the timing belt on my 08 Elantra 2.0, and am nervous about taking the tensioner off since it is not obvious how to set it. I could use a fool proof explanation on how to set the tensioner.
The Haynes manual talks about 1/4 deflection but that seems too imprecise.
I can not see the marks in the video : DIY 2008 Elantra timing belt video 2 of 2 - YouTube
And this post 2008 Elantra Timing Belt does not quite seem to explain. I am contemplating putting it all back together, just changing the accessory belts and handing it to a shop. I could use a fool proof explanation on how to set the tensioner.
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To my knowledge, if the timing belt goes the engine shuts down. According to others on Hyundai forums, you can blow the engine in a Hyundai Elantra if the timing belt goes. Is the latter really the case?
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I have a 2009 Elantra (automatic) that already has 52K miles on it. I drive a lot mostly at highway speeds. I know several people who recommend having the timing belt replaced BEFORE the warranty runs out at 60K miles.
The dealership has a 60K inspection where they "inspect" the timing belt (plus a whole lot of "fluff" checks, tire rotation etc) I'd rather just take it in and get it replaced. What should a timing belt replacement cost?
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My girls family has had an 08 elantra 2.0 new since 2008 and I've been doing the work. I recently did the timing belt ( July) with beck arnley oem parts. 65000 miles. I replaced belt, idler, and tensioner.
Right after I did it there was a mild hum at idle. It somewhat did this before the belt so I assumed it was just the new belt in plus the very mild hum it already had.
Recently it is humming very loud and high Pitched. It gets louder with higher rpm. If I take the cover of and move the needle on the tensioner while it's running it quiets down a little but it's an auto tensioner and doesn't stay right where it needs to be AND even when it is at the ideal spot it still hums.
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Looks like my timing belt broke. I was taking my car out of the parking lot, and heard the warning chime. I tried to look at the warning light, I think it was the malfunction one. I heard a belt/ fan snap. The engine stalled and I dint try to resart the engine. I had it towed to the dealership and am waiting to hear from them. The engine dint make mucg of a noise but sorta just died. Does this sound like a timing belt? I am worried abt the damage. how much would it cost if it was a timing belt? my car only had 73k miles on it. It is a 2001.5 1.8t.
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Bought this cheap 93 grand caravan 3.3 with about 350,000km about 750km ago and it had a bit of a whining sound from the start, thought it was normal for it's life. Last night I was taking my daughter and infant grand-daughter home when there was a terrible clunking, grinding and rattling sound coming from the engine. It was about -20 outside so I decided to just limp it home, but when I got a block from my daughters house I lost power steering. I checked under the hood an saw the belt on the left side with all the pulleys had come off and only one pulley near the bottom was spinning. after trying to spin the other pulleys i noticed one wouldn't spin ether way,and was really hot. thought it might have seized up and threw the belt. Is there a pulley in there that's not supposed to move freely, and if not what should I do now?
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95 nissan maxima decelerated on highway, i heard a clunking sound, and then it shut off, i opened the hood and it smelled like burnt rubber. Checked all of the belts i could see..no problems. Car wouldn't start after this...and all i could hear was a clicking sound. Pulled 6 codes for the car including bad speed sensor and a misfire, as well as bad EGR...i think the timing chain/belt broke..but i can't access it.
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I have a car Passat 2001 V6 and I need to know as changing the timing belt and the pump of water. Do I also need to know which the correct position of the timing belt is? As I know that this in the correct position and that the motor won't suffer damage. I wanted they could send me a diagram to see better as it is or that I use of reference to put it.
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2008 Hyundai Elantra, 2.0 it. We replaced a bad water pump, and timing belt while we were there. I followed directions found on multiple websites. We spun the crank shaft to the top dead center mark on the crank sprocket/engine block, and the cam sprocket / assignment mark. Then removed tensioner, and belt. Installed new belt and ensured alignment marks had not moved. Applied pressure to tensioner and tightened. Reassembled everything else. Car started with no problems, drive for about twenty minutes started making clicking sound from under the hood, we turned around to come back home and the car still making clicking sounds gradually started to loose power and speed until the engine stalled and would not restart. Trying to find out what could have happened.
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My 2001Honda Civic EX (manual) has only about 46,000 miles on the clock and runs very well. My mechanic says I should consider replacing the timing belt (the manual suggests after seven years). I plan on keeping the car for many more years -- should I replace the belt now? How devastating is it if the belt breaks while driving?
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2008 ISF. Has made whining sound (like a supercharger) off and on since '11 and 30k miles. Clearly coming from accessory belt system.
Having read this forum I assumed it was the tensioner, and finally replaced it last week @ 52k. Spun all pulleys by hand and all felt/sounded fine. Actually the old tensioner seemed fine too, even the belt- no cracks or wear, so I didn't replace belt at first, just tensioner.
Well new tensioner reduced the sound just a little, but still there at times, so I replaced the belt with a goodyear gatorback and that made the whine worse than ever. So I put the old belt back on, and am currently still dealing with some whine,
I don't have another ISF to compare to, but it can't be normal. It's not loud in cabin, my friends don't think anything of it, but I hear it and it's embarrassing.
Since I cant hear or feel an issue with any of the pulleys, is there a logical order in which I should start replacing them? I'm at a loss as for what to do next. I can't pinpoint where noise originates since it only occurs under load while I'm driving, but it's certainly from the accessory belt system.
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Ok, so there's a whining sound that is going along with my RPMs, that is coming from the area of my belt, obviously i think its the belt. I am also leaking a little anti freeze. What this could be.
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So, I got a 01 b5 1.8 5spd given to me was broken timing belt. The car is super clean with 226k on it and had been well-taken care of..oil changes Mobil 1 and such. the owner just got his $$ worth and drove it till the belt went, slapping then towed it to my shop. It did not overheat and he was not driving it hard. Now here is my real question...apars lapping on a new belt and crossing my fingers, what testing can I do to check and see if there are any valves damaged? Can't I do a compression test w/out the valve train in time right? Also, if there does happen to be head damage. I would be in the market for an AUG head, unless it's just a valve that can be replaced....
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