Elantra XD (2001-06) :: TPS Failure Symptoms And High Fuel Consumption
Dec 27, 2016
I'm experiencing some TPS failure symptoms and high fuel consumption.... I've unplugged the ecu harness to measure the voltages, measured a constant 6v on the return signal wire while it should be about 0v. While the input voltage is normal 5v. A strange reading as well is that signal reading with both battery terminals is 6v!!
Would this be a short on the ecu cable or is it a corrupted ECU? Also today I had tough hesitation in the morning while the engine was cold, after warm up it was normal! Is this related or its idle sensor?! ( Plugs and their cables are new)...
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I have a 2002 Elantra GT, is consuming 22 miles per gallon, one of these days the car was alarmed with a check engine, the mechanic checks to see if he had a loose wire, then removed the battery, put it on again and check engine disappeared. Following this, the car is doing 30 miles per gallon. After 5 hours the alarm appeared again, we scan the car and gave the code P0420. These days the car has been decreasing again the miles per gallon.
I bought the car with 186.000 miles but the person who sold me the car said he had 68.000 miles, the board was stolen and damaged something, then had to buy a Yonker the board and that board came with the mileage, is this possible?
What is suggested to improve the fuel consumption?
It is possible to know how much mileage the car has traveled in reality?
With so many miles traveled, which recommended preventive maintenance?
This error code says that the catalyst has to be replaced but can also be a leak or may be some of the oxygen sensors.
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It's great on gas below 2200 rpm. Averaging 34 combined. However whenever I'm in a situation where I need to accelerate, such as beat the yellow light, up a hill, or pass someone and I shift to a lower gear I lose 1-2 MPG at the drop of a dime. And then it takes forever to recover. What is going on here? Is the engine being flooded with fuel?
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When I go out to do errands around town (I live right in town) I get horrendous gas mileage. Now, I understand gas mileage is high at the beginning of a trip, but for this long and this high and under these circumstances? I'm getting ABOVE 10l/100km when I have 80% charge available (for americans, that's disgustingly high MPG like, pick-up truck high), AND my foot is completely off the gas. Literally, coasting, or braking, and I'm still sucking up gas. What the heck?
Is this just because it takes a certain amount of time for the engine to run no matter what or something? I still don't see any reason for me to be eating up all that gas when my foot isn't even on the gas AND most importantly, I have charge available. Feels pointless for me to use my car for what I use it for 70% of the time, which is for quick errands around town at low speeds. Thought the prius was suppose to be a superstar for this kind of thing.
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I replace all my spark plugs but my car still has no power and its eating gas like crazy.
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My hyundai accent 2004 consumes fuel but does not bring out black smoke, what can i do?
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I replaced my battery. Once I connected my new battery, my fuel and temperature gauge started working strangely. They would either be high, then go low, then go back high. My interior lights, clock, and radio stopped working. Could it be a relay? I checked all the fuses with a test light and they all looked good.
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Just bought a 2012 Prius Three last Friday. The MFD (upper display) shows an average of about 53 mpg so far, and the corresponding 1 & 5 min bars seem to make sense (we have an 07 TCH so we're reasonably familiar).
But the Display Audio unit (6.1 inch) Car>Consumption graph seems to show 100mpg most of the time/most bars. That can't be right and it looks nothing like the MFD display. What am I missing?
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When the car is cold & first started, the high pitch noise by the fuel injectors is the loudest. When it warms up the noise is reduced quit a bit.
I thought maybe the fuel injector O-rings are bad, but the car idles and runs fine ( no error codes). Maybe the intake manifold gasket, but the car idles and runs fine. It is a weird noise.
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Regarding my problem (outline below):
>> Went for a refueling stop, and thereafter proceeded onto the highway
>> Approx. 500m into the drive onto the highway the car started jerking and running rough with an initial puff of smoke (none thereafter)
>> Immediately after this initial jerking/shuddering there was a significant increase in fuel consumption i.e. from a familiar 8.2L/100km to 18L/100km in the cruise
>> We continued driving not knowing what it was (I suspected a spark plug may have stopped working)
>> Pulled up at the gas station to observe what went wrong inside the engine bay - no signs of any leaks, fuel sprays, etc. but only that the engine was shaking
>> I checked the rear of the car while the car was idling and observed a pulsating sound...some light smoke and a fuel-rich egg-like smell
>> Asked around and I was led to think the catalytic converter was ruined, so the next day I had the catalytic converter cut out
>> After removing the catalytic converter the problem persisted...although the engine operated with slightly less flow resistance
Attempt at diagnosing the problem
>> My wife called in a technician from BMW at Canal Walk to come have a look and what errors were flagged
>> The tech ran the diagnostic and no fault codes were indicated, except a few short circuit faults due to my incorrectly placing -ve on +ve when I tried to charge my cars battery with jumper cables
>> He proceeded to ask if we changed the spark plugs, I said yes. He then looked at the oil on the intake manifold and said there could be a torn valve on the intake manifold and that air that is not measured by the air mass flow sensor is entering the engine, which is causing the car to rev hunt (this problem of rev hunting has been with us for a while). The engine also shuts down uncommanded at stops and sometimes between shifting gears with the subsequent loss of power steering (very dangerous!!)
>> We also had the O2 sensor replaced a month before this occurence
The images attached (#1- #3) are marked up to indicate the component I am referring to.
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Went to Cape City VW in Cape Town and the part number for that orange thing/diaphragm is 06A 198 205A 'Repair kit for valve'. Is this significant? The car sounds as strange at idle...as if has noisy valves. I can upload (if there is an option) a sound clip of how the car sounds if this assists.
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I recently bought my new car through a family friend.2000 Hyundai accent auto owned by a 90yr old grandpa since new with only 45k on the clock. im used to driving a manual so I don't know if its just me not used to it but when I slow for a corner to say 15-20km/hr and accelerate out the transmission remains in 3rd gear unless I give it a really good prod then it changes to 2nd or 1st. the acceleration when It does this and stays in 3rd is ok but I just wonder if its normal or is it just burning out the torque converter. also im only getting about 380-400kms out of a tank when driving the same route my old 96 pulsar used to get 550kms from the same fuel. is this normal I would have thought this new car to be using if anything a little less.
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It's time to do some oil change and is using 10w30 synthetic but the truck is eating fuel like crazy and I can hear some kind of knocking when full throttle .
Sparks , boots and fuel filter is new . The mechanic said I should put some lighter velocity oil . truck odo 130k v10 hot hot weather .
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I have a quick question about the control arms on the B5. I have an 01 Passat GLX 4motion, the was previously my mothers. She had the upper arms (iirc) replaced around 60k but not all of them. I got the car with 64k from her, and it now has 92k of mostly highway miles. I have a few clunks from the suspension but nothing crazy, and considering the shocks and dampers are probably shot i cant seem to tell if its the arms or the shocks.
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My 2005 Elantra has 240,000 miles on it and uses about a quart of oil per 1000 miles. It does not smoke, nor are there any oil leaks. I've owned this car since new and I've done all the maintenance work (oil changes, timing belts, CV boots, etc).
The oil consumption started at about 120,000 miles and has gotten progressively worse. Outside of the oil consumption, this car is in great shape. It starts and runs very well. My kids drive it about 1000 miles per week between work, college, and other events.
If it didn't burn so much oil, I'd go ahead and replace the clutch, struts, and shocks but can't validate the time and expense given the oil issue.
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2003 Santa Fe, about 142,500 miles, 2.4L, 5-Speed Manual. It appears that oil consumption is 1 quart per 2500 miles.
No leaks present that I can see, no smell, no visible "smoke" from exhaust. I change my oil every 3K, so this doesn't seem too bad for the age and mileage.
Other issue: Throttle seems "sticky", especially when accelerating from lower RPM (under about 1700). I notice this especially when accelerating out of a corner in 2nd gear: If I'm attempting to climb a hill, she'll begin to hesitate as if the throttle isn't responding properly. I'm thinking it's more me, as I've recently gone from driving a 2000 VW Passat V6 to this Santa Fe with less horsepower moving a heavier vehicle. If I keep the RPMs above 2000 or just give the throttle a good press, she'll (usually) not "buck" or hesitate. Is there something I can check for? I've never really experienced this on other 4-cylinders, but those I4's have always been small cars.
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Alrighty let me see if I can get everything. 01 6speed 450hp at rear wheels. Comp 910 valve springs, valve seals, 238-80% injectors, full RR, 38r turbo, napa air filter, Hydra with Gearhead tunes, 5"exhaust, 280k about 100k on rebuild. All mods done 40k ago. Now I have a horrible up pipe leak I assume is causing the low boost #'s I have to do another clutch so up pipes will be fixed when tranny is out this week. But I'm using 1-2 gallons of oil every 3k or so. I smell burning oil when I get out, mainly if I am getting on it then stop. I haven't pulled the fuel filter to see if its a injector o ring. (Tonight's project) but turbo sounds fine, I'm going check for shaft play tonight. What could be my loss of oil without it actually leaking on the ground?
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My 2011 has just over 27K miles on it. On Saturday the Check Engine light came on. The next time I started the car, it cranked over for about 5 seconds before starting, which is unusual. Then multiple times Sunday and this morning, it seemed to take even longer to crank before starting. This morning, it barely would stay running. And there was a lot of hesitation driving down the road.
I scanned it with my OBD II scanner and got P0087 (Fuel Rail/System Pressure Low). I dropped it off at the dealer this morning and jut got a call that they are replacing the High Pressure Fuel Pump. But they had to special order it overnight and probably won't have it replaced for another day after that.
Is the high pressure fuel pump the device sticking out the top of the valve cover on the back, driver side of the valve cover, with the multiple fuel lines going into/out of it?
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So lately have had few symptoms of fuel pump going out and all that but tonight randomly wouldn't start and I mean no power, no lights, no turn over, no anything like my key fob won't even set my alarm or unlock car is this another symptom.
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I have a 2010 f250 6.4 About two months ago the truck just quite on me. I am a farmer in south jersey and have a decent background in diesel motors. First thing that came to mind was fuel. I assumed I was having a fuel issue (clogged filters, failed pump, etc.) truck only had 45,000 miles on it so I took it to my local dealership for what I assumed would be a warranty job. I dealer service all my trucks while under warranty. Long story short I was told it was a fuel contamination issue which scared the walls of the hpfp throwing metal pieces into the injectors, fouling them.
I would need all new injectors, fuel rails etc. as well as new filter housings, fuel tank cleaning, etc. I had receipts for every drop of fuel put in the vehicle and fought all the way to through the dealership to Ford who sent out a rep and who denied the warranty work. Fortunately my insurance company covered the ordeal and all repairs were completed. I got the truck back and 2 weeks later the truck died on me again. I called the dealership back who supposedly warranted the repairs but there first words were there is no way it is their problem, they would look at it but I have to consent that if they find it is contamination again I am responsible for the repairs which we all know just to diagnose they have to remove the cab etc.
I of course lost my mind and told them this is there issue and there is no way in hell I am that unlucky that I received 2 bad tanks of fuel from 2 different high volume highway side fuel stations in the same 2 months. it is obvious they missed something or there is another issue that was not addressed. They claim there is no way they missed something. I am at a standstill.
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What are the symtoms of a bad fuel regulator?
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Engine runs very erratically and I got ignition failure codes on all cylinders plus mixture too lean code. 2 years ago I changed the gadget that sticks right into the middle of the engine and regulates the mixture and the issue disappeared. bought the part from rockauto. should I change sparks and ignition cables or order the same part again? Never changed the ignition cables and sparks.
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