The stop lights and the tail light of my Elantra GT 2001 (automatic transmission)won't shut off, unless the fuse is removed from its place. Is this something easy to fix? I imagine it can only be some kind of switch on the break pedal/clutch.
View 5 RepliesI found out last night that all 3 of my brake lights are out. However, my tail lights work, and my turn-signals work. So obviously its not a big wiring deal. I was looking for the brake switch but i don't know where its at because i looked underneath. What fuse is the brake lights cause my manual doesn't have it listed. I drive a 04 Elantra GLS.
View 6 RepliesMy daughter has a 2003 Elantra. The left tail light works but the brake light is out. I opened the trunk and removed the two screws for the cover and found the wire going through a rubber plug. Upon removing the plug, more wires and no bulb.
How do I get to the bulb? There appear to be three screws and bolts, one on each corner, holing the tail light in place. On the fourth corner is just a rubber-looking plug. Do I have to take the assembly out to change bulbs or am I missing something?
I have a 2004 4 cyl. Santa Fe. The stop/tail light burnt out. Replaced it but still not working. Checked to see bulb was in correctly. Checked wires and bulb holder. Still not working. Back up and turn are working. Could it be a fuse?
View 3 Replies2001 hyundai elantra. Car is almost stalling randomly at stop lights. Low rpms under 500 and stops. Sometimes drops to 100 rpms then shoots up to 500 right before it might stall. Engine light came up got misfire on cylinder 2 and 4 with codes p0440 and u0d00.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra standard model, Manual drive.
It started out with the CEL flashing sometimes if I give it a lot of gas like taking off from a stop light. Then the car would just lose power when I was driving randomly and cut off like I was running out of gas. Then I restart it a few minutes later and it would drive fine. Then it now got to the point that when you try to drive it, it just shakes a whole lot and it has like 20% power, you can hit the gas as much as you want and it pretty much doesn't move.
The first time I had it towed home I replaced the Ignition Coil, and Spark Plug Wires which did nothing.
The first shop I took it to said it was a bad injector and bad spark plug wires (even though they were new)
So they changed the injector and wires and the car ran fine for 2 weeks at most and started doing the same thing. When I took it back he said another injector went bad and that they were all going to go bad in sequence. So I had him replace that one and it drove perfect again for a week and had the same problem.
Then I took it to another shop which said my spark plug cables were arcing inside where it plugs in so I took the cables back and got replacements and he said they were still arcing and were garbage to get cables from the dealer so I did that and it ran fine for an hour after taking it home and just started like it was running out of gas. I would have to floor it and basically coast, and try to restart it and when I would give it gas it would hardly go and I just had to keep restarting it and finally it wouldn't start so I towed it home, and sure enough after cooling down it started again and now when you drive it, it feels like you've only got 20% of power.
The only preexisting condition the car had was a clogged charcoal canister because when I get gas it always keeps clicking and I have to put 30 cents of gas in at a time or the nozzle shuts off or if I keep doing it too fast the gas comes out and runs down the side of the car.
I changed the spark plugs I think about 2 weeks before this stuff started happening. So far it has new:
Ignition coil
Spark plugs
Spark Plug wires (x2)
Fuel Injectors (x2)
Hollowed out Cat Converter because the mechanic said it was clogged
When @ a light or stop sign the car vibrates excessively to the point it makes my daughter sick. I do feel it vibrating but it doesn't bother me but something is definitely wrong. There are no engine lights on, I can hear the top end tapping and clattering, I did check the valve clearances which seem to be barely within specs. She says it vibrates worse when the tank is full. She also said when the tank is full the front end shakes driving down the road. I'm kinda wondering the front end shaking with a full tank might be the rear struts.
View 4 RepliesMy 2002 Hyundai elantra gls has had a problem with losing power when accelerating from a light. only after filling up gas and has done it only three times. I cleaned throttle body and noticed the mass air flow sensor is missing and wiring. I went to AutoZone and no check engine light for mass air flow sensor and that I have one for fuel pressure sensor in tank. I don't wanna throw money in to the mass air flow sensor if my problem is the fuel tank pressure sensor.
View 5 RepliesHad to stop working on my car's cosmetics because the tail lights stopped working a few weeks ago. Radio, headlights, and brake lights all work.
10A fuse blows when I turn the headlights on. Tail relay is good. Bulbs and bulb sockets look good. Ground is good. I purchased an ECT2000 by Power Probe to diagnose the issue, but it's running me all over the car.
Mechanic couldn't find the issue. What should I try next?
Looking to find out what size bulb goes in the red light located on the lower part of the front door panel.
View 2 Replies2001 Ford Windstar, select tail lights will not function. All lights serviced by Fuse #7 have ceased to function (left rear turn lamp, right backup lamp, right stop lamp, right rear park lamp, right license lamp, left license lamp, and left backup lamp). Checked all bulbs and replaced any that were questionable but to no avail.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 f250 v10 lariat ext cab. i was going to get wood the other day down a muddy road. My radio went out and all my running lights. i replaced the fuse radio and now the switch. Still nothing. Could it be a bad ground? i ran a jumper wire on my old switch and they worked then just stopped again. if it is a bad ground where would it be located.
View 3 RepliesI am in the middle of doing some investigative work for autokey and upon taking apart the Hatch Door rear tail light assembly, I noticed a spot where a bulb should go is empty (on both the driver and passenger sides, same spot).
Now, I am 99% sure these lights are SUPPOSED to be omitted, as the spot where a bulb would protrude into the actual tail light assembly outlined above has a metallic dome over it to keep it sealed. Just wondering why there would even be a socket available for a light? Is it part of a European package we don't get in the States?
Is there a way to get the tail lights to come on automatically with the driving light?
View 13 RepliesThe brake light on the driver side doesn't work. The center window brake light works as does the passenger's side brake light. My first thought was the bulb, but when I just have my tail lights on it works just fine. From what I can tell it's obviously the same blub so I don't know where to go from here. The fuse that controls the brake light also controls all of the brake lights so I don't think that would be it since only one side is out. Trying to avoid going to the dealership if I can.
View 7 RepliesIs it possible to enable a rear fog light on the normal stock tail lights.
I understand I will need a euroswitch, another trigger wire and VAGcom; but can the stock tails do so?
2005 Escalade-rear tail lights-water in tail assembly. Bulbs blew. Replaced bulbs. Will not come on when I turn on headlights. They do come on when you depress the brakes and when you use the hazards or signals.
View 2 RepliesWe found out that both our tail lights and our left turn signal light were out. The guy at the Honda place said that he thought that the person who put the hitch on our brand new car screwed something up. He said that 3 bulbs were burned out as well as 2 fuses. He replaced the bulbs and fuses and everything has been working. We pulled our light weight trailer about 4 times before the car was inspected. The car passed inspection. Then this problem showed up about a month later after we had pulled the trailer once or twice more. I'm afraid if I take it back to the guy who put the hitch on, he will just say that he did it right. Why didn't the fuses protect the bulbs from burning out? Could the problem be that water got into the hitch wiring. We wrapped the end of the wires in plastic but noticed water got into the area anyway. Why didn't the problem show up right away? Could the problem show up again even if we don't pull the trailer. What should I do next.
View 3 RepliesDriving home from work around 10pm. Leo started explaining that i had no taillights on but the brakes worked. He was right. I came home and found out my parking light fuse under the steering column was blown. I replaced the mini 10-amp fuse with a spare and they started working again. Then later, they stopped working again. Only thing i have installed electronic upgrade wise is after market LED fog lights(which went out with the parking lights but both came back on with the new fuse) and Navi bypass. What could it be?????
View 12 RepliesI just installed the lights and found that only the outside left light worked with the brake depressed, the outside left inside left and inside right worked with the light switch in the on position. Also both blinkers work.
I switched my byte 18 to 04 already and am not (as of now) using my euro light switch (I didn't think this would be it but I'm at a complete loss) ...
I'll preface by saying, my technical know how ends with swapping out lights. I'm sure this is an easy fix, but not sure where to look first. I recently got a pair of smoked out taillights and 3rd brake light and installed the tails..................easy job. Finally climbed up on the back to swap out the 3rd.............lights worked before I disconnected. Connected the new one, no go, so figured, I bet bulbs are out. Plugged original back in, no lights. Figuring I tripped a fuse somewhere.................any tips finding the right fuse?
View 6 Replies