Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Start After Few Cranks / Sputtered A Bit And Then Stalled
Nov 15, 2015
My car has 203K Miles on it and today when I left for work, it started up after a few more cranks than normal, sputtered a bit and then stalled. I then went to start it again and it would only crank. The fuel was low, but not empty. Normally, the car will have a hard time starting like that when the fuel is low. It is getting colder and those issue are normally amplified. I will list my recent issues with the car below:
- Speedometer jumps all over the place most of the time. Only under throttle does it fixate on the correct speed.
- Check engine light came on a couple of months ago and it was gas cap related. Also related to the fuel tank charcoal filter. After a couple of full tank fill-ups, it went away.
Now, I checked all of the fuses and belts. I pulled the Fuel Pump relay and smelled it and shook it. The one for AC next to it was the same one, so I put it in place of the fuel pump and went to start the car. It had very little power to crank suddenly. So I went back out and placed the relays back in their respective spots. Then I tried to start the car and it cranked even slower until the battery died it seems and the car now has fast clicks when trying to crank.
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My parents have a 2001 echo with auto trans. my father was driving and it started sputtering and died. it will crank but wont restart. it had a code p1725 Nt revolution sensor circuit malfunction (input turbine speed sensor). i tested the wires from the ecm to the sensor and the sensor itself as per the diag tree. wiring and sensor checked ok. diag tree pointed me to the ecm. i ordered a new ecm preprogrammed and installed it and it still wont start. it isn't giving any codes now either.
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I have an 01 Elantra GLS, automatic.
The initial problem started 3 months ago. The car would surge at highway speeds intermittently, but not throw any codes. It would only happen every couple of weeks.
First I replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter. The car seemed ok at first, but eventually bucked while driving at hwy speeds.
Next I replaced the fuel regulator, which is located in the tank, if I am correct.
The problem continued. Next, I replaced the throttle position sensor. Again the car would run as normal, but soon enough it did the same thing. In addition, it also wouldn't always start on the first try. Pretty quickly it wouldn't start at all.
I was able to get it started and drive it home, however the car had no power and seemed like it would stall if i pressed an the accelerator too much.
I had to replace the starter next, and I also replaced both the crank position sensor and the cam position sensor.
I do believe the engine was flooded at some point. I was able to get it to start, but it still ran rough. I replaced the plugs twice. The first set I replaced looked pretty dark. I suspect it was because of all the cranking but no fire.
The last time I got it to start I did get a misfire code for cylinders 1&4, and it still runs rough and has no power. After shutting the engine off, I was unable to get it started again. That is when I put in the second set of plugs.
I have verified that the injectors are getting power at the same time as the plugs. I have ohmed out the primary and secondary sides of both coil packs and they are the same and within specs. I have also ohmed out the injectors and they are also all the same and within range. I have verified 12v power to the coil packs and injectors.
I have ohmed out the plug wires and they appear to be good. the resistance increases with the length of the wires. Is it possible that I have lost compression in cylinders 1&4 because of flooding the engine?
PS. The mileage is 155k
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I just purchased an '01 Elantra a few days ago. The car starts and runs when the engine is cool, although it hesitates during acceleration, and when it's warm outside it bounces between 1000 and 2000 RPM in neutral and park. The last day or so it's been chilly and the idle has been steady, but low (500 RPM). Once the engine warms up, however, if you shut it off for a few minutes and try to restart it cranks but won't start until the engine cools off.
The previous owner replaced the fuel pump, cam sensor, crank sensor, spark plugs and wires, and I replaced the intake gasket and the idle air control valve, all with no effect. I can hear the fuel pump when I key it on, and I've checked for spark at each of the plugs, and even pulled the injectors and cranked it a few times to be sure that they were firing. Everything seems to be in working order.
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We have 2 Hyundai a 2015 Sonta and a 2002 Elentra I am having problems with the 02 Elentra
I have a 2002 elentra that cranks but will not start it tries to but wouldn't start. It started fine before this and it did start once but ran really rough and only for a few seconds.
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My 2002 Elantra GLS seems to have some sort of heat related problem.
I live in Arizona, where temperatures routinely reach well over 100. In the morning my car will start fine, after driving it for some time and parking somewhere, if I try and start the car within a couple hours of driving it, it will crank but not start. Lifting the hood to cool it seems to expedite this to get it started.
I had a mechanic friend of mine hook up his OBD computer at his shop, nothing out of the ordinary. He suspected either a crankshaft or camshaft position sensor. No check engine light, nothing out of the ordinary on his computer check. I removed spark plug wires for cylinders 1 and 4 and I have spark while cranking when it fails to start. My mechanic friend said the spark would rule out a faulty crankshaft position sensor. I have also tried spraying starting fluid into the intake manifold, and it has no effect. The battery has been replaced within the last two months, connectors are new as well.
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Gas is expensive and the empty light wasn't on THAT long so I put off refilling until I had time to swing by a place that is a couple ten cents cheaper per gallon. When the time came to go refill, the car started fine and then sputtered and stalled a before I could turn my car around. Parked the car and in desperation pouted some gas from the lawnmower tank in hoping that it would get me down the street to put some gas in, but it still sputtered and stalled.
So then I got a ride to the gas station to get a few gallons of gas that I knew was made for a car, and funneled it in. The engine still starts fine, sputters for a few seconds and stalls completely off when I start it. I decided to leave it parked for the night and see how things are in the morning. I know nothing about cars and have never had unforseen problems that have forced me to be concerned with how little I know about my 2005 Mitsubishi Galant in particular. My question is: Is something more complicated wrong with my car now that I let it run out of gas entirely, or is this just something that happens after you put gas in a bottomed out tank? Or did I do my engine dirty putting whatever was in my landlord's lawnmower can in my tank?
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2004 2.4L Sante Fe Base model. Car stalled out the other night, engine cranks but wont turn over. I have it towed to mechanic who tells me that the ECU is fried and they cant get any diagnostic done, that only a hyundai service can do this. I have it towed to service. Service tells me that they cant get a diagnostic done without a working ECU and that for the ECU alone. Then they could figure out what was going on with the car. The service also told me that the ECU isn't something that you can just go get at a scrapyard because it is specific to the VIN on my car. It just didn't sound right to me but I might be wrong.
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Wife called me this evening saying she's stuck at work. She was parked in a parking garage on the 3rd level, she started the car up, coming down the ramps of the garage and on the first floor at a stop sign, the vehicle stalled out on her. She went to restart it, but it will not turn over. I come out and tried to start it with no luck. I did notice on the positive side of the battery terminal there was a lot of corrosive discharge. I cleaned that all up, but still no luck. Everything has power, bright interior lights and headlights okay. I originally thought it was just cold or lean... But still won't kick over.
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The car died randomly and now it won't fire. I know it is getting fuel, none of the relays or fuses are bad. I am pretty sure it is not getting spark. The spark plugs that were in it were pretty much gone, put some brand new ones in and while testing I didn't see it spark. The wire resistance tested fine with my multimeter. I just checked the resistance on the coil pack. High side (set to 200k ohms) was ~15.6 on either bank, low side was 0.060-0.062 (set to 2k ohms, my meter doesn't go lower).
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I have an 2012 Hyundai Elantra. I've been having an intermittent issue with startup. When I go to start the car it cranks and just when you'd expect it to start it just drops out. I'm not letting up off the key too early, this happens as I'm still turning the key. All the dash lights stay on. When I try it again it starts right up. I did mention it to the dealer last time it was in and they said they looked it up and discovered the cable to my starter was loose so they tightened it. Clearly that hasn't fixed the problem.
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So I'm not new to fixing this car but I'm now stuck. It is not the inhibitor switch, I had that replaced, and the car cranks so it is not the problem. In addition, the "P" shows up on the dash. Since the car cranks, its not the battery, it is showing 12.25V.
I am afraid it is the fuel pump. Looking for the specs for the fuel pump such as resistances/ voltages? Sometimes when it cranks, I believe it ignites for half a second and then dies. Then it cranks with no ignition, then it sounds like its dying, then it ignites every once in a while.
Similar to this: [URL] ..... but without the nastiness at 0:08 where they turn off the car mid crank.
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I have a '97 Hyundai Elantra (That has been turned in to a Dirt Race Car) anyway the car will idol for an hour fine. When we take it on the track it will run 4 or 5 laps fine then we take it in the pits shut it off for an hour and then go back on the track and on the 2nd lap it will quit and will not start it will crank but their in no spark also the dash lights no longer work. After the cars sits for a couple hours it will start back up and idol fine. We have replaced the ECU/ECM relay as we thought that was the problem but the symptoms remain the same. We have checked fuses and don't seem to find a problem our next step is to replace the ECM....
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I've got a 2001 1.5L Accent with about 110,xxx miles on it. The car stalled at a stoplight and would not start. Earlier that day it had been driven pretty hard for a while with very little oil.
When I turn the ignition, there is only a high pitched buzzing/whirring sound. the motor won't turn over, so I assume it's probably seized up.
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I was driving down a 2 lane road doing the speed limit and I found myself behind a car going much slower than the limit. It is one of those roads where every once in awhile the double yellow line is dotted so you can pass.
I finally got to the point where I could pass as there was no oncoming traffic, so I turned left to pass the guy, floored it, the tranny started to kick down into passing gear and then the car sputtered, didn't accelerate and blew out a huge white cloud from the exhaust and the cel light flashed on and off. The cloud was something like you would see in a James Bond film to get rid of cars following you. All of the cars behind me had to stop or slow up because you couldn't see. I didn't realize that until I looked in the rear view mirror. I thought the car just sputtered, I didn't even realize about the cloud until I looked back.
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Its done this twice to me, once last week, once this morning. Drive a short distance after cold startup and it dies. Cranks strong but doesn't turn over. I waited a few minutes (took longer today than last week) and it restarts with a larger than normal puff of smoke, perhaps due to the multiple cranks, and the epc light comes on. Last week, I finished my errands with it on, it even went off after a restart. Today I didn't bother driving it because I was late for work. 137,xxx miles
Fuel pump and filter were replaced recently, relay was not because I could hear it and a new one didn't fix my fuel pump issue. One day I didn't hear the pump prime so naturally it didn't start but after opening and closing the door and waiting some time, it did prime and start.
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My friend's 2001 toyota RAV 4 battery went totaly flat and was taken to an electrician, he changed the battery but the car won't start, it cranks very as normal but no start, the horn blows quit strongly and the Battery is a new one (BOSCH) not rebulit, and the security light blinks. The thing is that the car started well before the battery went flat, so I am very sure it is not the starter or the ignition switch, that security indicator was not blinking before the battery change.
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it's been parked for about 2 months in my driveway, which slants upwards. I cranked it for a solid 30 minutes (jumped the battery so it wouldn't die). I don't smell gas so I think gas isn't making to the motor.
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My 2001 Ranger is used for work to move furniture multiple times in a day. 7 weeks ago, I had moved a dryer w/ it, drove across town for a meeting, got back in & it refused to start & run. The same thing happened 3 days ago on a longer, fuller route w/ a trailer attached. Both times, the truck started & drove home ok AFTER sitting off waiting for my emergency ride. While I waited, I looked up the issue in the owners manual which told me to depress the gas pedal 1/3 to 1/2 & then turn the key in ignition. The first attempt did not work, so I repeated the steps, which started the truck & I was able to drive back. Both times, the truck started no problem the next workday. Does this sound like a problem worth fixing (for the age of the truck vs. cost of repair)? It has pull some weight, including on trailer, in between the two occasions.
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I have a great little '01 Accent and it has been a blast. That was until it decided not to start. I was on my way home from work when I realized the car was acting sluggish. It was not accelerating like it should have and it was it did not seem like I was going as fast as it said. When I went to go use it again, it started, then died and has not started since. I checked oil, and it was low. It wasn't out, but it was low. I have checked batt, fuel filter, fuel pump, and loose wiring.
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I have a 2006 Santa Fe with the 3.5l, AWD, 5 speed auto, and 65,000 miles. Its a daily drive. Out of the blue it won't start. It cranks, but it won't start. The battery is strong and it has 1/2 tank of gas. I figured my code reader would solve the mystery, but it's doesn't produce any error codes. With no codes I don't even know where to begin.
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