Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Sluggish And Shaking - RPM Drop Down
Jul 8, 2014
I have a 2003 Elantra, which I've had for several years, and love greatly. Recently though, she's been giving me problems.
When it first started happening, about 6 months ago, it seemed that she was simply sluggish, and wouldn't accelerate as well as normal when I pushed the gas.
It has gotten worse from there, within the past 4 months, sometimes when I turn her on, she idles very rough, and the entire car shakes. Originally when this started happening, if I turned her off and back on, she would run smoothly again. Unfortunately that's no longer the case.
If I attempt to drive anywhere when she's acting up, pushing the gas makes the RPM drop down, and she doesn't move. This has caused a lot of problems at stop where I'm turning onto a busy road. Occasionally when I'm driving around, her RPM drops far below what it should. For example, she frequently drops down to 700 RPM when I'm driving 35 mph... normally when going that speed, the RPM is about 2000.
Most troubling to me is the fact that the engine turns off on me without warning sometimes. I've had her do it when I'm at a stop waiting to turn, at stop lights, and dangerously, even when I'm slowing down through traffic or getting ready to pull into a parking spot.
I've tried multiple things, fuel injector cleaners, replacing temperature sensors, and I've checked all the valves, wires, and hoses. I've had it attached to a code reader and of course she never acts up while it's attached.
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I just changed timing belt all accessory belts and water pump on my 2001 Hyundai Elantra. Now the check engine light is on and it is sluggish in throttle response. It sounds smooth. I was quite sure I had the cam and crank marks dead on. I turned it 2 revolutions by hand and they both looked dead on before I started it. If I were off 1 or 2 teeth would that be the cause? And if so how do I fix it? Also will it hurt it to drive it that way?
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I have a 2001 Elantra GLS 5spd with about 175k. Recently it started driving very sluggish. Under any more than minimal throttle during acceleration or load/resistance (i.e. climbing a hill), it bogs down and will decelerate. No check engine light, no codes, etc. I have replaced the TPS, catalytic converter, Spark plugs and wires, fuel filter, fuel pump, strainer, and fuel pressure regulator. Without any codes, I am at a dead end. I also unplugged the MAP and threw the code for it so I know it is functioning.
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My wife has a 2003 elantra. When it is started cold the gas pedal is REALLY sluggish for a couple of seconds but after that it works fine. I thinking it may need a transmission fluid flush but I'm not sure.
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Can't run a/c rpms drop to almost 200 from 1200-1500rpms. Really bad when at at traffic light. I have to constantly press gas pedal.
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My nephew's car is a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GLS manual. His RPM's hang when he shifts and it is a pain to shift.
I took it to the dealer and had them do TSB#04-36-011 Delayed RPM drop between shifts. This TSB supersedes TSB 01-36-025. Here is a link for the newest TSB : [URL] ....
The TSB Basically tells them to erase ECM adaption values. Then, you update the ECM with new FUEL cut-off logic. When we drove off the dealers lot the delay was not better, just different.
After driving it for a day or two we saw improvement. Now when you push in the clutch the RPM's go up slightly for a second to burn off the gas then the RPM's drop faster than before.
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All of a sudden my fuel consumption dropped from 28mpg as read from the computer display in the dash, to 21mpg. This was not a gradual drop, it was at 28mpg one day and 21mpg the next day. There is no service light on, do these cars produce codes that don't trigger the service light?
A few months ago the vehicle was getting stuck in various gears and lunging, this was from battery corrosion dripping down and eating away at the transaxle range sensor. I cleaned up the battery and replaced the range sensor and the vehicle was driveable again. It re-learned the shift timing and seemed to be ok, then about a month ago it seemed to be forgetting the learned shift positions after sitting over night, I replaced the battery, thinking it was in a marginal state where it would forget the program while sitting. The shifting is still hard sometimes but this seems to have worked but, now my mileage is horrible.
I thought I'd just change out the oxygen and air flow sensors but, then looked at how much they cost now, and realized this would be some costly trial and error. Is there a methodical way to troubleshoot this issue, any way to pull the sensors and measure them?
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06 Elantra Limited, 96,xxx miles. When I'm idling at a light or something, the Rpms drop for a split second, almost to the point of stalling, but recovers. Happens in a split second. Does the same thing even when driving, but does it more frequently when idling. It even does that when I first put my foot on the throttle to accelerate from a red light.
I've cleaned the throttle body but it still does it. I've taken it to 3auto parts stores. One said that battery was bad. The other said the battery is fine but alternator is producing low. The last said both are fine.
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It has 158,000 miles on it and you can feel the engine vibration through the steering wheel, seats, and floorboard, and especially through the gas and brake pedals! Under the hood the engine shakes in place and very badly . it stops at about 1500 rpm and got worse when I installed a intake...
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My 2005 Elantra (what a beauty, cobalt blue) shakes, rattles in the front underneath, an obvious suspension problem. Was told 3 different things by 3 different mechanics. Bad shocks/struts, bad universal joint, bad tie rod.
When I go 50mph it rattles the worst, except for when you hit bumps, but mostly the ride is bumpy all the time. At 65mph, it's smooth. Also, the steering squeaks when car first starts up. Replaced belt, keep wd40 handy, but still does it. Steering strong and seems good otherwise.
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2013 Azera with 7k on it. Problem started at about 1500. Coming to a complete stop, the rpm return to normal idle (700rpm). A few seconds later, the rpm drops to 500 and the car shakes. Feels like the car is about to stall. About a second of 2 later, the rpms return back to normal idle (700). The car has been to the dealer 4 times and they cant find the issue. And now they are telling me that it is normal. I drove a brand new Azera with service manager and it was not doing the idle drop. Search youtube for "azera 3" with the same screen name as here.
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I have a 2007 gs 350 awd with about 98k miles. I recently started noticing this strange vibration whenever i stop at a red light. I would describe the vibration as a shiver of some type where the RPM kinda drops. After the vibration, I started noticing my car using a lot of force on the freeway and giving me very low mileage. I did some research and changed the motor mounts, and cleaned the throttle. This slightly fixed the vibration but cleaning the throttle fixed the low mileage/using extra force when driving at high speeds. but the vibration still seems to be a problem. Also, does the exhaust possibly have any role in the vibrations?
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Here are my issues.
1. In drive under load during braking especially when the AC is on the car shakes. I can put it in to neutral and it works but when in drive or reverse especially with AC the car shakes. (not just a little bit)
2. The RPMs are settling around 400-500 so the stuttering makes since.
3. Feels like everything effects my Idle RPM speed (breaks, steering, AC, power windows lol!)
I am thinking possible fixes from research
1. ECU Reset with everything on AC/Lights/ Im planning on mashing on the breaks 2 see if the extra power usage work.
2. Throttle Body cleaning
3. Alternator could be bad
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I'll try not to post an entire book.. But I bought a 2000 F250 not even 8 months ago, it did have issues before but I changed out the spark plugs and coils and it fixed it's original missing issues.. I also just recently changed the fuel filter but it didn't fix it's new problem.. It drives ok around town but if I get over 35 mph it doesn't run well... If I try to keep a steady foot on the gas but don't get the RPMs over 2000, the RPMs will stay where they're at for just a second then they will drop down and the whole truck starts shaking.. I push more on the gas and it shakes even more and the RPMs don't move at all until I really step on it.. It lacks in power going up hills as well... The dealership i bought it from said the Catalytic Converter was bad but my uncle who is a mechanic says it isn't.. It's the first vehicle I've bought so kinda wanna make it last..
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I have approximately 45K miles on my 2013 GLS. For some time, I've noticed that when raising the driver door power window, it slows down and becomes sluggish about 1/2 way up, almost like it's struggling. When wet, it's worse and will start vibrating while being raised. I've tried WD40 in the window track, but that's not a permanent solution. Oddly enough, I had the same trouble with my 2001 Elantra over the life of the car.
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2008 Elantra 101,000 kms ... no problems ever .. till now
Started when I put the car into reverse from my driveway. I heard a thump but the car continued to reverse as normal. When I put it into drive, it was sluggish, felt like it was stuck in gear other than first. Then the engine light came on.
I pulled it over and shut it off. After a few minutes I started it again and put it in drive. Everything seemed back to normal. Engine light was still on but the vehicle was driving normally. About 20 minutes later, the engine light went out. This was 4 weeks ago.
Last week the vehicle went in to the Dealership for a service and I explained about the incident and the engine light. When I picked the vehicle up they said that there were no stored codes ??? How can that be ?? They checked the plugs and all was good. They said to bring it in right away if the engine light came back on so they could catch the code (what are the odds ... )
Last Saturday (after the service) ... driving along at 80kms when all of a sudden there is a bang and the car lurches forward and continues to drive as normal. I thought at first I might have driven over something in the road. About 2 kms later as I'm slowing down to turn a corner it does it twice (one right after the other) then continues to drive normally. I make a quick U-turn and head for the Dealership. It has been there ever since .. they claim that there are still no codes on the computer, nor can they replicate the problem.
I'm very nervous about taking it back until they resolve the problem. After doing some research it sounds like it could be a few things; solenoid, clutch gear or lock-up torque converter.
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,I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra (stick shift) with about 104k on it. Was running absolutely great till about a month ago when I noticed that it was beginning to accelerate quite slowly. If I pushed it and got the RPMs up really high it would still pick up, but still not great performance. Also after pushing it a little hard there was a faint burning or smoke smell. Note, once it is up to speed say 60 or 70 it has no trouble maintaining such speeds. It just takes a while getting up to them. And if I really need to step on it the RPMs sky rocket with no real immediate increase in speed.
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Was typically showing at least 30-32 mpg but now around 30 around town, hwy 34-35. Just came back from hwy drive of 100 miles and the mpg showed 30 at the start and barely got to 34-35 which use to show and then it took the entire trip to get to that. The ECO is on....
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Have had the following happen 3 times to me during longer (1-2 hrs) drives where I'm driving straight through, no stops, highway driving.
Running along fine when out of the blue, the A/C temp remains strong and cold, but the airflow drops dramatically to the equivalent of 1 or 2 bars on the fan dial. However, the fan dial remains at 5,6 or higher. Upping the fan dial does little to increase the speed of airflow. Adjusting the air source intake buttons changes nothing.
Only thing to correct this is to stop the car and let it sit, off, for about 20-30 minutes, or more. Re-start the car and it's all back to normal.
Searched the forums and can't find anything on Elantra, altho some Tuscon's seem to have had similar issue on older models, although their descriptions were more dramatic, w/the A/C going out w/in 20-30 minutes.
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Why all of a sudden the mileage indicator on my 2012 suddenly dropped about 5 miles/gallon, both highway and around town? The car has only 9000 miles on it. Has there been a service bulletin regarding the "Eco'" mode? Having the "Eco" mode on or off doesn't seem to make a difference.
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There is roughly 800 on the odometer and I was averaging around 35 mpg. I filled it up and driving home afterwards I noticed the mpg drop off significantly. Now I'm lucky to get get 27. It was as low as 16 on the trip computer. The range was the same and the miles come off in sync with the odometer. I'm wondering if its a glitch with the trip computer?
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