2001 Elantra shifts to overdrive only after running 3000 rpm for a mile. Then at other times it shifts to overdrive ok. fluid is ok Sometimes putting the shifter into neutral with the car rolling and putting it back into drive will get it to upshift.
View 1 RepliesSo, I have a 2016 Elantra SE Auto w/ 26k miles, I have 1k miles life until my next oil change.
Since about Saturday, whenever I accelerate, around 3k RPM - 4k RPM it's running/ sounding really rough! Not sure what's causing that, I checked my air filter earlier that day & put it right back in, also put in some HID lights in. I thought maybe the containment cover or gasket around the filter wasn't seeded properly, but everything checks out. I'm pretty car savy, so I know this isn't normal for brand new cars. Doesn't seem like it's loosing power, I still get pretty quick throttle response when I really gas it!
New iac and now runs at 3000, replaced iac, input shft speed sensor,and #3 fuel inlector because of codes. Have factory shop manual. Old iac had higher than factory ohm resistance by 5 ohms on each test of terminals 1 and 2 and then on 2 and 3. new iac [wells] is 4 ohms higher on both tests . Old iac ran at 1200 rpm new at 3000 rpm. tps is smooth on resistance test so assume it is ok. Blocked off all hoses to intake manifold to check for open pcv or evap. valve but still the same. 2001 elantra gls is giving me a fit. soft reset of ecm did nothing. Pulling pigtail on iac will drop rpm's to about 1100 but runs rough.
View 8 RepliesI've got an automatic transmission 2002 elantra 2.0 that I purchased in 2009. About a year after owning it a weird problem developed that I've just sort of lived with since. Between 25-40 mph my RPMs occasionally "bounce" persistently by an amount between 500 (mild) and about 1000 (severe). There's a bit of fluctuation insofar as what RPMs/speeds it happens at depending on outside temperature and how warm the engine is (higher temps correlate with this issue happening at higher RPMs and a more pronounced fluctuation), but it's a consistent issue every time I drive. It *seems* like my car is always trying to push down the revs, hits a certain low point depending on the gear/speed, then jumps up just a bit only to edge back down. Lather, rinse, repeat. It's not simply a display problem as I can feel and hear the engine revs changing.
No fluctuations at idle. Above 3000 RPMs it's ALWAYS smooth sailing. When I'm actively accelerating there's never a problem, even if my acceleration stays in the revolution problem range. The car is never in danger of dying, but if the cruise is engaged (ESPECIALLY in the 25-30 MPH range at operating temp) the car shudders uphill - I assume this is because the RPMs dip a bit too low for the gear the car is in. If I press the throttle the car responds normally. This bouncing RPM issue itself NEVER causes the car to shift gears in response, and if it's happening and the car DOES shift everything works fine until it goes back to trying to maintain RPMs in the problem range. When it happens I usually just increase speed by 5MPH and it goes away, though if the car is warm and the speed limit doesn't allow me to go fast enough to get out of the problem range it just does the same thing at the slightly higher RPMs.
When the problem started my car threw an OBD code - I didn't read it myself and brought the car to a random service shop who SAID they changed the throttle position sensor, and the code was gone, but a few days later it was doing the same thing without throwing a code. I tried changing the fuel pump thinking it was a fuel delivery problem, but that didn't solve anything. I put seafoam in the fuel system monthly so I'm fairly certain that fuel system gunk isn't an issue. The symptoms haven't changed AT ALL during the 6+ years this has been happening.
The kicker is that a few years ago I found a SUPERB mechanic - the first one I've ever actually trusted to be not only competent but also honest. Described the problem and even demonstrated it to him. When I brought in my car to have the struts and mounts replaced he spent two days trying to figure out what was causing the RPM issue too... and couldn't nail it down.
Possibly related: after starting the car - regardless of how long it's been running - there's a brief delay between pressing the gas pedal and the engine responding. Delay seems *slightly* longer the colder it is outside, but it's never more than a second and a half. No further delays unless I shut the engine off and turn it on again. Replacing the fuel pump didn't affect this matter whatsoever.
2002 Elantra engine is revving up to 3000 rpms when in neutral or park. I changed the Throttle Position sensor and it went right back to revving up. Code read P0121. What might be causing this? Seems like I get one thing fixed and then another code shows up..
View 2 RepliesMy nephew's car is a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GLS manual. His RPM's hang when he shifts and it is a pain to shift.
I took it to the dealer and had them do TSB#04-36-011 Delayed RPM drop between shifts. This TSB supersedes TSB 01-36-025. Here is a link for the newest TSB : [URL] ....
The TSB Basically tells them to erase ECM adaption values. Then, you update the ECM with new FUEL cut-off logic. When we drove off the dealers lot the delay was not better, just different.
After driving it for a day or two we saw improvement. Now when you push in the clutch the RPM's go up slightly for a second to burn off the gas then the RPM's drop faster than before.
I have a 2002 Elantra GLS with the 4 speed auto and in the mornings or after sitting in lot at work for 9 hours, the trans shifts hard from second to third (almost as if it has a shift kit) and slips a little from third to fourth. The TPS was changed once and that seemed to eliminate problems at the 26K mark. I have 109K on it now and at around 80k took it in to the dealer with the receipt for the same complaint and what was done the first time. Dealer kept overnight and said there were no problems. I do know from having a performance TH350 built that the harder a trans shifts (up to a point) the longer it will last due to less friction on clutches and bands.
View 6 RepliesIts a 2005 Elantra i dont know the sub model, but they said the heat will be working just fine, then out of no where it stops, at first i thought it was the issue's i've seen on here before about a bad blower, but its still blowing it just goes from hot to cold, and then it will shift back again after x amount of time.
View 4 Replies2001 F150 5.4 Auto ... Truck was running excellent. Engine light and overdrive light begins to blink and it acts like its running out of fuel or water in gas. Baring made it home. Cleared the code and it comes back. Transmission seems fine.
View 2 RepliesI have a 95 f150 5.0 with a 4r70w Trans. What to check now no overdrive Trans shifts and drives great but no od the od off light on shifter is lit up and just never goes into overdrive solenoids have been replaced and new shift lever and button where do I go from here is not throwing any codes...
View 7 RepliesI have the p0734 and p0732 codes. Thing is it shifts hard into second and wont go into overdrive when first started. After about ten minutes of drive time you shut it off and turn it back on and the thing shifts perfectly. No hard shifts and overdrive works then check engine light turns off. The pulse generators have been replaced when i purchased car. It is an 02 accent with 90,000 miles.
View 3 RepliesSo while driving to work I start experiencing some weird behavior with the transmission. It would shift hard and seem like it wasn't pulling hard at all. I looked down and saw the overdrive off light flashing. Got to work, turned the car off then started back up and the light was off. Any thoughts?
View 14 RepliesLost overdrive. Shifts when o/d disengaged. Dropped pan, valve body and found that the servo retaining ring is still intact but the small clip for the center shafts of the servo was broken. Found it loose on the valve body along with a flat piece of metal shaped like half of a hexagon. 3 sided shape, approximately 1 inch each side. Like one 6 inch piece that's folded together. Don't know where that came from. Afraid to put back together without knowing where that came from. Was founded right next to the broken clip. 2007 f150 4.6 4x2 ....
View 13 RepliesMy tranny started acting up so I took it to a reputable transmission shop for repair.
Symptoms : Shifts very hard 1st to 2nd. Light flashes on overdrive button.
The following is what has been done at the transmission shop.
Computer failed to read codes. Sent out to rebuild. After rebuild, codes read FIPL needs replace. Done and gives good readout. Trans control replaced, speed sensor replaced, checked all associated wiring and plugs as well as ground. Dropped pan, changed fluid and filter. No parts in pan. Tech says pan and fluid looked good. Replaced coil pack.
After all that, this is what is happening..Clear all codes. FIPL reading good. No flashing light on shifter. It feels like it is shifting from 1st to 3rd, then back to 2nd. Still shifting hard and indicator light starts blinking again. He is going to read computer again. At this point, he suspects a mechanical problem in transmission but is reluctant to remove and tear down.
I have an 06 Lexus GS300 awd. Yesterday, when I left out of my neighborhood, my car drove approx 1 mile and just STOPPED running. I coasted to the shoulder of the road & attempted to start it again. It cranked & started for about 2 secs & died again. After that, each time i tried to crank, it would try & try to start (starter sounded strong) yet would never "turn over". I could feel/hear a few rough spitting & sputtering type feelings/sounds trying to start it, but ultimately it wouldnt crank.
I called a friend (another single mom) to come get me & i purchased some starter fluid & went back to try it. We hooked it up to her battery as I had run mine low trying to crank it. After it had been sitting there while we went to the store, it again tried to crank when I attempted to start ot, but died again within a sec or 2. Then, wouldnt fully crank again. I hear my alternator clicking & as i said earlier, the starter sounds very strong & normal when i push the ignition button.
I tried to just turn it to the "on" position (2 button pushes), leave it a few secs, turn off, then try to crank again (hoping to "prime" the gas lines in case it somehow had sucked in any air or water....which it kinda "feels" like) Still after all that....nothing. I tried having my friend crank while i sprayed starter fluid into the intake, and it actually cranked and would stay running as long as i was continually spraying the fluid. The sec i stopped, it stopped. I really dont hear the fuel pump turning on, although admittedly I guess I never have paid attention before this to know if I ever could "hear" it previously. Im wondering if its just a very quiet one, or if its not turning on at all? (I understand it's in the back of the car kind of under the backseat & not under the hood).
Here is my issue. I have a 2000 e350 7.3 the overdrive light is flashing, the speedometer and the odometer isnt working it also shifts hard, i changed the vss, the vss plug, range sensor, and alternator. still acting up. also all the fuses are good.
View 8 RepliesFriend of mine has a 2001 Elantra, not sure of the mileage but it started running really rough, like it's on 3 cylinders. His mech wants to look at the head, thinks there's a broken spring or something.
I asked if the timing belts ever been changed, no it hasn't. My suggestion is it might have lost a few teeth from the belt and jumped. I can't see it being a broken valve spring or something worse because the beta engine are tough as nails.
He said the wires are fine, they probably need replacing too because my friend is the type of person who changes oil and that's it.
I bought an 05 elantra for my daughter's first car. 47,000 miles.
I noticed every time the fan is on, the a/c appears to be running (as evidenced by cold air, clicking on and off of the air conditioner, draining of the system onto the road after shut down, etc.). Even with the a/c light off, it's clearly running. Could it be the switch or relay?
I have a 2008 Accent 1.6L automatic that is running very rough when it accelerates. First of all there was some engine check light, I got the codes and it was a Cylinder misfire. Then I checked the following:
1.- Spark plugs (replaced them same NGK but I didn't gaped them, same result)
2.- Fuel injectors (removed them, cleaned them and installed in different order, same result)
3.- IGN coils (measure resistance, swap them in different places, same result)
4.- Checked most of the sensors including TPS, Crankshaft PS, MAF, Camshaft PS and nothing.
5.- I checked for any type of vacuum leak and I couldn't find one
After all that troubleshooting I cleaned the codes, started the car again and I have the same problem with no check engine lights on except that sometimes I would get a "running rich" code.
I also noticed that the air intake is LOUD like a performance air intake, is that something normal on the accent? (I checked the air filter and its not clogged FYI). I could only think of:
Gap spark plugs to .035
check timing belt
check fuel filter (I don't think so)
In january I took my 2001 Toyota corolla to the mechanic (that had replaced the engine 5 years ago) because it was using oil and gas mileage was very poor. He gave the car and tune up and right afterward I noticed the car hesitated for just a second within the first mile of driving. After the hesitation it had full power.
Then the check engine light came on with a code for O2 sensor; I had that part replaced about 2-3 years ago. So that was replaced. The next day I was driving on the highway when I heard a pop and lights came on everywhere. The car ran, but when I stopped, it was smoking and wouldn't start. AAA towed it and said the water pump broke and took the serpentine belt with it, and I had it repaired there.
Car continued to to the "hesitation" thing, but I learned to live with it, until 4 weeks later it lost power and wouldn't go more than 5 miles an hour. Very dangerous! Also the check engine light came on - O2 sensor again. The original mechanic towed it back to his shop, has had it over a month. Say sometimes it runs fine and sometimes it really hesitates. My son took the plugs out and said they didn't look new and replaced them with best quality new plugs (mechanic said the plugs looked worn due to problems reported).
He's been a mechanic his whole career and still can't find out the problem. He checked the MAF and said it's fine. I can't afford to put more money into it, but it's worth nothing but junk value now after putting over $1000 into it. I didn't have these issues before I took it to him in January. He has a good reputation, but I don't know what gives.
Is this all a coincidence that it happened at once? What could have happened?
I picked up a really cheap Hyundai Elantra 2005 that the kid that owned it really beat up on. Right now I am trying to sort out the issues so that it can become my daily driver for the next few years.
Second issue, The check engine light is on and it is popping up a P0171 generic engine running too lean code. The car looses power sometimes and I can smell gas in the car. I have a friend that is going to be loaning me his MAC code reader so that I can see if it is one of the O2 sensors and if so which one tomorrow.