Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Running Rough Like On 3 Cylinders
Mar 24, 2012
Friend of mine has a 2001 Elantra, not sure of the mileage but it started running really rough, like it's on 3 cylinders. His mech wants to look at the head, thinks there's a broken spring or something.
I asked if the timing belts ever been changed, no it hasn't. My suggestion is it might have lost a few teeth from the belt and jumped. I can't see it being a broken valve spring or something worse because the beta engine are tough as nails.
He said the wires are fine, they probably need replacing too because my friend is the type of person who changes oil and that's it.
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2001 Santa Fe with 2.4 engine auto FWD 198k miles. When it is started first in the day, the engine sounds good and shifts well. After a few minutes and also after stops, first gear works well but then the following gears do not work well almost as if the engine and the transmission quit talking to each other. Traveling at 60 mph starting up a medium hill, the car downshifted and could not pick a gear. Although I pushed the pedal harder, the car did not respond rather continued to slow down. It acts like I lose 2 of the 4 cylinders in all cases. I replaced the spark plugs and two of them had oil on top of the plugs and also all around the threads. I replaced both coils thinking that one of them was the issue but no change has been observed. I replaced the throttle position sensor; no performance change. I do not believe it is the transmission as I have not notice any clunking, or bad shifting when starting out. While coasting at 40 mph in neutral and my pedal pressed at a certain position, the rpm gauge fluctuated from 3k to 3.6k many times for the duration of 20 seconds.
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I have a 2001 elantra 2.0 gls. It is running rough with low power and flashing engine light. It may have a bad 02 sensor but when checked for spark only the 2 and 3 cylinders were sparking. I can confirm this because when I unplugged the 1 and 4 spark plugs it made no difference in the way it was running. Next I tested the resistance on the coil packs. Both were an even 1.5 ohms. How can it be that the coil packs are good yet the plugs aren't firing? I also have moved plug wires around and have had no success.
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2001 hyundai Elantra 97000 mi. perfect on Thurs. Engine light flicker, sulfur smell, rough running, low power on Friday
First thought / hope, Bad gas? Had Filled up on Weds.... I added dry gas and FI Cleaner.
Second thought / fear Cat. Converter
Third . .. . ???
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So my daughter's 2000 Golf Mk4 with 160,000 miles on it was running rough and had 3 codes stored - cylinders 2 & 3 misfire and a 411 secondary air injection problem.
Having had the misfire code before I swapped injectors around and the error code moved cylinders with the injectors so I attempted cleaning them and also cleaned the throttle body and intake manifold. At this point car still running rough but also started smoking badly.
Replaced the following items:
- Spark plugs
- Spark plug wires
- PCV valve
- PCV hose
- Fuel injectors w/ remanufactured
Hose reconnected between secondary air injection pump and air intake - previous owner had duct-taped it in when he couldn't get it to seal I guess. I've never heard it run.
Car running better, idles more smoothly, doesn't stumble or stall like it did before, no error codes coming up BUT car smokes a lot and the fumes make me feel sick just driving it a mile.
The car had never smoked like this before, hasn't had a whole lot of love the last year or two but no real problems either so why the sudden smoke?
At first I assumed it was cleaner being burned off but that should have been gone in under a minute and this is on-going. It's bad enough to not only be embarrassing but apparently dangerous as the fumes are bad.
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I had an HPOP line burst and soak the engine compartment with oil. I replaced the line and degreased the engine and rinsed it off. I started the truck and let it idle for 15 minutes or so before driving it. On the way home right after a shift it started chugging and running terribly. The check engine light was on as well. I limped it the mile or so home and shut it off. I restarted it and it runs just fine. I checked the DTC's with Forscan and there were a bunch of things that were mostly related to the HPOP and the MAT sensor that was shredded when the line blew. I left the hood open to dry out today and I'm hoping it is just some water in a connector. Does that sound plausible?
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I have a buddy at work who has an 04 f350 6.0 that is running very rough. we put a scanner on it and disabled the injectors and 1,7,8 have no change. He checked the FICM voltage and is getting 48 volts on crank and run. He checked the wiring for anything loose or rubbed but nothing seems wrong.
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1999 F350 & lately if I don't plug it in even if it's like 40 out for like the first 30 sec sounds like its only running on 4 cylinders than it'll just even out & alls good. thinking glow plugs here. I did replace them last fall unfortunately with the cheep ones that I been now reading bad things about.
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I have a 2001 Audi A4 1.8t (AWM engine, B5 platform). When I start the car, I get misfires on all cylinders (very rough idle, sometimes it stalls when the engine is cold) and the car appears to be running lean. Once the CEL comes on, it runs fine (albeit the slight loss of power do the ECU going into limp mode to correct the problem).
So far, I've done the following myself: new O2 sensors, new SAI pump, new EGR valve, new diverter valve, new N75 valve, new vacuum hoses, cleaned the throttle body, new MAF sensor, cleaned the air filter, new plugs, and new coils. When the problem persisted, I had my mechanic change the timing belt, check for vacuum leaks, change the valve cover gasket, replace the fuel pump and filter. None of this has solved the problem! This is driving me nuts.
At this point, there are only two possibilities that I can think of:
1) Catalytic converter is clogged? I pulled out the pre-cat O2 sensor, started the car, but it still misfired. This seems to mean that there's another problem (i.e., if the cat is clogged, it's in addition to something else).
2) Dirty fuel injectors? I've put two bottles of Techron through the car to no avail. From the outside, they look pretty dirty, so I'll definitely try removing them, cleaning them, and replacing the gaskets. Hopefully this solves it.
Is there something I'm missing?
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Engine runs very erratically and I got ignition failure codes on all cylinders plus mixture too lean code. 2 years ago I changed the gadget that sticks right into the middle of the engine and regulates the mixture and the issue disappeared. bought the part from rockauto. should I change sparks and ignition cables or order the same part again? Never changed the ignition cables and sparks.
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2001 VR6 GTI....
Already done:
Replaced the coil pack and plugs
Measured resistance of plug wires (all at about 6K Ohm)
Replaced front O2 sensor
Replaced purge solenoid valve
Replaced coolant temp sensor
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced fuel pressure regulator
Replaced MAF sensor
Cleaned the throttle body
Cleaned the throttle position sensor
Ran a tank of seafoam treatment (injectors were new 6 mos ago.)
Checked running voltage of battery
It was smoking and stinking bad with a rich mixture. It improved with the MAF change but still runs like a farm tractor. Now it idles on 3 or 4 cylinders, runs rough through 3000 RPM then runs cleaner at above 3000 RPM, but only at light throttle. CEL is either on or flashing when driving.
Don't know what to do next - nice car not fun to drive like this. What this could be and how to test it?
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Bought a fixer upper 2001 v10 and it's definitely not running on all cylinders. Also the check engine light is not on and the PCM is not saying it's on (per my code reader) and it doesn't come on when I turn the key on.
Is it possible the previous owner had a programmer of some sort to disable the CEL? If the bulb were removed my scan tool would still show it on. Trying to get it to tell me which cylinders I am having trouble with.
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I have a 2003 F250 7.3L. I put new injectors in my truck four months ago and all of a sudden, I have 2 cylinders not working correctly, making the truck to run really badly. I sent the 2 injectors from the bad cylinders back for warranty and they replaced both of the injectors but nothing was wrong. I put them in and the truck still runs badly. I have a new fuel filter, new ICP, new CPS and glow plug relay. I cannot drive the truck, it smokes white at idle. I can unplug each injector at a time and cyclinder 5 does not change how the truck runs
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So, I have a 2016 Elantra SE Auto w/ 26k miles, I have 1k miles life until my next oil change.
Since about Saturday, whenever I accelerate, around 3k RPM - 4k RPM it's running/ sounding really rough! Not sure what's causing that, I checked my air filter earlier that day & put it right back in, also put in some HID lights in. I thought maybe the containment cover or gasket around the filter wasn't seeded properly, but everything checks out. I'm pretty car savy, so I know this isn't normal for brand new cars. Doesn't seem like it's loosing power, I still get pretty quick throttle response when I really gas it!
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In the last month, my car has had an awful time starting on 2 different occasions. The first time it ran really rough for about 1 minute then was ok. The second time was the same but the engine light came on. Took it to an out of town dealer and he said it showed a misfire code but could never find anything else and all looked OK. Spark plugs?
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I bought an 05 elantra for my daughter's first car. 47,000 miles.
I noticed every time the fan is on, the a/c appears to be running (as evidenced by cold air, clicking on and off of the air conditioner, draining of the system onto the road after shut down, etc.). Even with the a/c light off, it's clearly running. Could it be the switch or relay?
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Well today I have moved on to the next project on my 02 v6 4X4 Santa Fe, which is the rough running. When I got the car, it had CEL with codes for misfire #5 and lean condition codes. I noticed the wires were in need of replacement (one had black tape wrapped around it) so changed the plugs and wires. The 2 hoses, one that goes between the valve covers on the pass side and the hose between the valve cover and throttle body on driver side were both cracked so replaced them along with a few other vacuum lines, just because I had access to them. Cleared the codes and it still runs like crap, but after 112 miles, town and highway driving, there are no CEL codes. When its first started it idles at 1500 and sounds like its missing and has very little power going down the road. When it warms up seems to run a bit better but still nowhere close to what it should. Equal compression on all 6 cylinders and has power to all 6 injectors and tested to be sure there was a pulse to them as well. Coil packs all tested well. the exhaust is in bad shape and don't know if that would have any effect on how its running.
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A few weeks ago my car was running perfectly fine, i filled it up with fuel and then it started running a bit rough. Would drive ok but could feel it surging and if i backed off on the accelerator it would try stall.Also the fumes in the car were a lot stronger than usual. Got home and it stalled, started it up and was idling rough and blowing black smoke :/ no engine light has come on though. I did the typical thing and googled possibilities, the mojority said that it was the purge control valve so i replaced that with a new elantra one (part numbers were the same) and its still running rough We are now thinking it could be the oxygen sensor? Have checked vacuum lines and stuff for air leaks and cant find any. Unplugged the oxygen sensor while car was running and it made no difference at all.. If the oxygen sensor was working properly it would of affected how the car was running, right?
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I'm considering a 2001 VW Jetta 1.8T with 135,000 miles that the owner is selling for $1,000.00 because it is "starts and runs but it's difficult get it accelerated and it's just running rough ". I haven't yet looked at the car or pulled the codes, but before I do, is there a common point of failure on these cars that leads to the symptoms described?
If it is something such as a crankshaft position sensor, then I could potentially have a good car for a lot less than the book value. If it's something such as the timing having jumped a tooth, then that's probably not something that I want to mess with.
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Our 2001 mazda 626 has begun to run rough(shaking the car) when idling at a stop sign or stop light and once that begins when we push on the gas to move from 1st to second there is a huge jerk. If the air conditioning is on it is worse. It is an automatic.
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I have 2005 elantra ve and I got rough idle stop for a while.
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